Not long ago an issue of American Rider was devoted to lowered models contrived for shorter more compact riders. It was natural to feature a custom devoted to the tight-is-right crowd. In a custom world gone nuts with bigger, stretched, wider, fatter and pumped up motorcycles it was a lengthy chore for Buzz Buzzelli to find a bike designed for a concise, agile enthusiast. But fortunately after long arduous months, digging through one sordid garage after another, he discovered the only majestic model of it’s kind on the planet, the Bikernet.com Amazing Shrunken FXR. It was right in our own back yard. All he had to do was call me.

The bike was built by K. Randall Ball, of Bikernet and a writer for American Rider (the entire series of build stories are archived in the Bikernet Tech Area). “I generally build a bike every year to ride to Sturgis,” Ball said,

 

“Since I was banned from entering the Badlands, I built something I couldn’t ride.

I’m too tall at 6’5″.” Pissed at the nasty notion that he couldn’t fly along desert highways into the red rock of Wyoming to sweep his same-time-next-year girl into his arms, he moved to build a dinky custom.

The bike was built to enhance the Rev Tech, 88-inch V-twin drive train and become the anti-big-bike representative. “So many bikes are long and fat, we decided to haul ass in the other direction.” There’s nothing like a small, tight custom bike, like Chica or the Zero guys build in Japan.

“We wanted to go in all different directions,” Ball added, “small rear wheel, black and chrome engine, no stretch and no passenger carrying elements.”

The Kenny Boyce Pro Street frame was modified by Dr. John in Anaheim, California. “The neck was dropped and shoved back toward the engine almost six inches,” Ball said. “We cut two inches out of the Pro Street swingarm and shaved off and tapered the fender struts.

In the process several talented sources were utilized to create the design and components. “We relied on Cyril Huze for most of the sheet metal,” Ball added. The rear fender originated as a Fatboy front fender modified to ride the swingarm as a unified component with the ability to remove it for repairs. The Bikernet crew including Dr. Terry the mad grinder bitch roughed out fender rails, sliced the Cyril Huze tank, modified the seat pan and nearly destroyed the Huze front bender. “He ain’t no Jesse James,” Ball said.

“A Hamster came to our rescue,” Ball said. There’s a talented worldwide group of builders called the Hamsters and one owns a structural steel shed in Harbor City, California. James Famighetti, who works I-beam forms for buildings, with his Brother Larry is actually incredibly talented with sheet metal and fabrication projects since both brothers ride with the group. “James took every bastardized element we created including the tank, front fender, rear fender rails, oil tank and seat pan and hand-formed them into works of art,” said Ball.

Electronically the bike took on the simplest form with the assistance of Giggie from Compu-Fire. “We installed a Compu-Fire charging system, starting assemblage and single fire ignition combination. Then we mated all the electronics around the Custom Chrome top motormount. Giggie also used the Compu-Fire machine shop to fabricated the mid controls for an even more compact motorcycle. Recently Giggie took his talents to the Rivera R&D department.

The final details included LePera’s seat upholstery, Harold Ponteralli’s teardrop paint scheme, crazy John’s machine tooled CCI brake calipers, Performance machine wheels with a 90/90/18 in front and a 150/70/18 Avon in the rear.

When completed and Buster hauled ass down the street the bike was trimmed of all frame elements on the downtubes and along the bottom of the frame on the right side to reveal the entire Rev Tech drive line. On the left only a Custom Chrome chromed, welded-on kickstand interrupts the frame flow around the BDL belt primary drive system. The pipes were hand made in the Bikernet Headquarters and only sprayed with flat black heat paint. The Front end is 39 mm narrow glide enhanced with black powder-coating and Joker machine trees and controls.

“I remember the first exhaust system,” Ball said, “and the sparks flying around the shop. While I wrenched Nuttboy, who is a college professor, ground the welds. Complacent, I twisted bolts and worked on the bike as hours passed.”

 

Like some psychedelic fantasy the sparks mesmerized the doctor and the harsh Makita cut through the exhaust system until large gaping holes emerged.

“We tossed those pipes in the trash and started over,” Ball added. “Dr. Terry was banned from the grinder.”

Okay, a short rider stock to custom comparison is in order. The seat height is 23 inches compared to the Softail Deluxe at 24.5 inches, the Buell CG at 28.5 inches, Dyna Low Rider at 25.5 inches and the new 883L at 26 inches. Overall length even with 38 degrees in the neck was 86 inches compared to the Sportster’s 90.3 inches, Dyna at 94 inches, the Softail’s 94.7 and the Buell Lightning series kicked the FXR’s ass with 76.2 inches.

 

There you have it. The Amazing Shrunken FXR built for the trim and lean rider who wants class, tight ride. It’s for sale (310) 830-0630

 

Specifications

Owner: K. Randall Ball, Bikernet.com
Where: Wilmington, California

Builders: Owner, Dr. Ladd Terry
Year and Model: 2004 Amazing Shrunken FXR
Fabrication: Owner/James Famighetti
Chrome: Long Beach Plating, Long Beach, California
Paint: Harold Pontarelli, H-D Performance, Vacaville, California and
Henry Figueroa (frame), San Pedro, California
Powder coating: Custom Powder Coating, Dallas, Texas
Color: Black with emerald tear drops

 

Engine:

Year and model: 2003 Black and Chrome Rev Tech from Custom Chrome
Displacement: 88 cubic inches
Cases: Rev Tech
Flyweels: forged 4 1/4-inch stroke Rev Tech
Cylinders: Rev Tech
Pistons: forged 3 5/8-inch Rev Tech
Heads: Rev Tech
Cam: Andrews EV38
Valves: Nitrided stainless Rev Tech
Lifters: S&S solids kit
Oil Pump: Polished oil regulated Rev Tech
Heads: High flow Rev Tech
Carb: 45 mm Mikuni
Air Cleaner: Fantasy In Iron, Denver, Colorado
Exhaust: Hand made by Bandit
Ignition: Compu Fire single fire
Coils: Dual Dynas from Custom Chrome
Coil bracket: Custom Chrome with CCI ignition/starter switch
Transmission: 6-speed overdrive Rev Tech
Clutch: BDL
Primary Drive: BDL 3 inch belt
Final Drive: Custom Chrome belt
Rear Pulley: Custom Chrome Billet
Front Motormount: Billet by Paul Yaffee

 

Chassis:

Frame: Kenny Boyce Pro Street
Modifications: Neck cut and set back 4 inches
Rake: 38 degrees
Swingarm: Shortened 2 inches with CCI stainless axle plates
Front Forks: Joker Machine narrow glide
Risers: Custom Chrome
Rear Shocks: Short Progressive Suspension from CCI
Front Fender: Cyril Huze
Oil Tank: Cyril Huze
Gas tank: Cyril Huze modified by James Famaghetti
Rear Fender: Modified Fat Boy by Bandit
Hydraulic Lines: Good Ridge
Wheels: Performance Machine
Tires: front Avon 90/90/18, rear Avon 150/70/18
Brakes: Billet-6 piston from Custom Chrome engine turned by Crazy John
Brake rotors: H-D

 

Accessories:

Headlight: Custom Chrome
Taillight: Aeromach
Handlebars: Custom Chrome
Seat: Custom Le Pera
Speedo: None
Hand Controls: Joker Machine
Mirror: Aeromach
Foot controls: Handmade by Giggie at Compu-Fire
Pegs: Chrome Spur from Custom Chrome

 

 

Electrics:

Ignitions Switch: Bob McKay at CCI
Starter: Compu-Fire
Regulator: Compu-Fire
Alternator: Compu-Fire
Wiring: By Bandit

Shrunken FXR mid-controls by Giggie at Compu-Fire. Note: we need flat-headed Allens.

Giggie our master machinist from Compu-Fire rolled up to the Bikernet Headquarters last Saturday. We haven’t seen him for months due in part to his work on new starting systems for the custom market. They are dancing through the final development stages of a system configured to drive off the crank shaft of the motor with a 60- to-one ratio compared to stock 48-to-1. That will leave the area about the tranny available for custom applications or lower seat heights.

Giggie brought some wrong fasteners but lots of them and counter-sunk drilling tool.

Currently Compu-fire is soon to release a standard starting system, the Gen-2 HT, with 33 percent stronger magnets, 6-roller longer clutch (32 percent longer) with 30 percent more cranking while drawing the same amps from the battery.

Here’s the tranny without the brake pedal components. There’s some tight tolerances going on.

I spoke to him about our cooling debate and here are some of his thoughts. “You want your oil to run at a minimum temp of 205 to eliminate water vapor or condensation that accumulates in oil,” Giggie said. “At 240 to 260 degrees petroleum based oils begin to break down, although synthetic lubricants could be good to 360 degrees. I have my doubts.”

Base bracket to be bolted to the transmission.

Giggie developed an oil cooler for his FLH that kicks on at 220 degrees and off at 200. It has an in-line thermal switch continuously reading oil temp. He installed his cooler in a box with vents and two small electric fans wired to the thermal switch (to cool while idling).

Giggie’s mounting bracket bolted in place.

Regarding our project Giggie dropped off hand machined mid-controls for shifting and rear brakes. Next, we must buy a H-D slave cylinder with remote reservoir with a built in brake switch. We will hide the reservoir behind the oil bag and design a bracket to hold the slave under the trans.

This shows the pedal and shaft in the mounting bracket.

Giggie will supply us with four more bushings to run behind the shift and brake levers, two 1/8-inch thick and two 1/2-inch thick, to allow us variable spacing away from the engine pulley or point cover on the cone.

Giggie will supply two different bushing to be installed between the brake lever and the mounting sleeve. We’ll need the space to clear the point cover.

Unfortunately the sleeve hit the oil pump cover. We may be able to remove enough material or just polish the pump. The oil pump inlet fitting will also need to be turned down. It’s close.

With the bushings in hand we can develop our final linkage behind the BDL belt drive plate and Giggie’s tranny plate to connect with the slave piston.

In both cases we need to cut and machine the other end of the shaft, depending on the linkage.

I’ve decided to remanufacture the exhaust system which is now a tight fit around the new brake linkage. Giggie also machined the foot peg mounts to accept any standard, pivoting foot pegs.

The slick new mid controls for shifting slid through bushings machined into the BDL outter and inner covers.

Next we need the bushings, slave cylinder and a day in the garage hammering and welding a new set of pipes.

–Bandit

Back To Part 10, Page 2

Old Harley-Rider and professional artist, Chris Kallas, brings many of our 5-Ball creations to life.

I'm in a daze this morning. Too much Quervo Gold last night and too many discussions about the sinking economy. It's a bastard when they lay off port crane operators. What does that tell you? I don't want to go there on this dank gray morning. It's warm outside, but even the dogs, Tank and Cash, feel the gray skies. They look hung-over, droopy and drained. I haven't shaved in a couple of days, need a shower and a kick-my-butt workout.

Here's the version before the Crime Scene Rapide headlights.

Chris added the Rapide Headlight to his illustration, but the project kept changing.

All the women left me and ran off to the mountains this weekend. I know why Sin Wu needed a break. Have you ever tried to maintain a 10,000 square-foot, old dilapidated building, clean and care for two lumbering, sloppy dogs, two house cats, and a stray that wanders through and bitches if the food supply isn't consistent with her desires? The Macaw needs to be fed and moved into and out of the sun at the end of the day and now we have a fuckin' fish.

Both Crime Scene lights are featured in this version.

There are also construction workers, electricians and plumbers to deal with. It's never a dull moment around here. I'm a big proponent of running off all the costly pets, who can't do except shit and care for a half dozen concrete gargoyles. At least they keep the evil spirits at bay and involve zero upkeep.

With vintage Paughco tool box.

Okay, I'll get to the tech. I was on a hunt for a vintage seat and Duane Ballard stopped by with this vintage BMW seat. I used chunks of wood to hold it in place while I pondered the little Hispanic girl who works at Shamrocks, the Mexican fish market two blocks away. Since the seat was made with a number of springs incorporated in the structure, I didn't feel additional springs were necessary. I played with my options, but nothing – graceful, stylish, art deco or vintage – came to mind. Then I grabbed the springs that came with the prototype Paugho frame and voila, it all came together using the existing frame bungs, the mini-seat shocks and a slight modification to the BMW seat.

I drilled new holes in the brackets and cut about 4 inches off the arms. The front of the seat bolted directly to the Paughco seat hinge and I was good to go. Duane stopped by again, blessed my creation, and took the seat for top-notch leather upholstery action. He's the best.

I shifted to my shift linkage system and called Jeremiah for the mathematical configuration from the system we build for his bobber. I wanted a tank shift and had several strange components, plus heavy, solid cloverleaf brass rod to use. I don't have any idea how I come up with this shit, but what the hell. It has class.

With this system I probably added 5-pounds to the Racer's weight. That's okay. I want it strong.

According to Jeremiah, from the pivot point down, the shift arm was about 6 inches in length, and the distance to the shift knob up was almost three times that length. That made for a vast throw and I needed to make sure I was clear, fore and aft, for shifting without smacking the bars or anything else. I checked my '48 Panhead with stock jockey shifting and the ratio was closer to two to one. In addition, jockey shifting is a different animal. There's no back and forth spring action on vintage tank-shifted bikes. The shifter banged through one gear after another from first to fourth, done deal.

I had a bunch of holes to drill and tap.

That's the reason jockey-shifted bikes are best with jockey top transmissions. If you need neutral, just pop it out of any gear and you're back in neutral. Ratchet tops force you to bang through one gear after another down to the only neutral between first and second, often missing it. In our next tech, we will install a Baker 5-and-1 drum in this transmission to afford neutral at the bottom for easy reach.

Okay, so back to the job at hand. I'm trying to use as much brass on this bike as possible, so I dug through drawers and boxes of old machined parts and trinkets and came up with these brass-bearing supports. Then I machined a piece to fit these, then the axle piece to mount to the frame. Then I had to bore and tap the pivot, drill and tap to anchor the brass bushing, drill and tap to create a pivot stop and machine and thread the brass rods, plus machine an end to fit a heim joint connection to the transmission shift linkage. I spent hours tinkering and figuring, drilling, tapping and testing, and I'm reasonable sure I have a tough, working shifting system.

Here's a shot of the original threaded frame tube.

Then I shifted to the dreaded tanks. The tanks are fine, but more involved than normal one-piece, bolt-on tanks, ready with bungs for rubber mounting. Since this was a prototype Paughco Factory Racer frame, the first one of the batch, they bolted the tanks to the frame by drilling and tapping the top frame tube. Problem is, that afforded each 5/16 coarse bolt about three threads in mild steel tubing. In just a matter of time, those threads would fail, the tanks would rattle and come loose.

A Bung King Master Bung in place.

I decided I wanted to strengthen the tank mounting for the long road. I ordered some ¼-inch bungs, ¾-inch deep for a lasting hold. Later, I discovered that since the mainframe strut was 1.5 inch tubing, I could have used the 1.5-inch deep bungs from the Bung King (check their site for all available variations). I needed to re-drill the holes to a larger diameter for the bungs to slip into the frame. Adding the bungs and welding them enhanced the strength of the frame. At first, I though about machining a bung with a lip on it, but the tanks didn't have the clearance above the frame for a lip.

There it is a smooth, tight Bung King Bung–perfect.

We used 3-4-inch long ¼-20 bolts to hold the bungs, assist with alignment and prevent weld from damaging threaded holes. Before welding we sprayed the parts with slag protectant.

I laid on the welds for maximum penetration and strength. Wish I could crawl in the backbone of the frame and weld the underside.

After drilling the frame holes, I tapped the bungs into the hole and as far below the surface as possible for the strongest, deepest weld. I would also need to grind off any protruding weld so the tanks would fit again. One tank protruded into the frame and rubbed at the back, so I moved it as far forward as possible for clearance, which amounted to about ¼ inch.

With the bungs in place, welded and ground, I grappled with the tank mounting holes. I thought I had it made, since I was dropping from 5/16-inch bolts to ¼-inch, but not so. Only one hole lined up. I grappled with these bastards for hours. Then I gas-welded the hole slots, refilled them and ground them to a reasonable size.

Since the tanks were very narrow I was forced to watch out, that the straps didn't stick out from under the tanks. I was lucky, sorta.

Bung welded into place.

Next, I welded bungs, I believe from Lucky Devil, into the bottom of the tanks and used the Bung King’s rubber mount kits with straps and rubbers to attach it to the frame. In a sense, this was overkill, but I've experienced leaky tanks and poorly mounted tanks on my way to Sturgis a couple of times. One time, Randy Aaron from Cycle Visions saved my ass and my tank paint job. Later on, Paul Yaffe replaced my piece-of-shit Blue Flame tank with a properly rubber mounted Independent tank. So, goddamnit, this needs to be right the first time. I ran rubber mounts front and rear.

Since the Bung King straps are 1-inch wide, I use 1-inch masking tape to test locations. I had to make sure I could reach the mounting holes without a spacing problem and support the tank.

There's a trick to this operation. You need the rubbers in place to make proper measurements, cuts and tack welds. Ah but, too much heat will destroy your rubbers and sink the process. I've done it during mad welding spurts. This time I kept my Bonneville salt sprayer handy, so I could tack near the rubber insert and cool the strap before I damaged the insert. I removed the inserts before final welds.

Inserts removed, then final welds and grounds. I could have bent these and tested the welds like a welding school.

With the tanks securely mounted, I was confident, except for one aspect: capacity and turning radius. I needed to pull the bike away from the lift clamp and flop the Paughco taper-leg springer from side to side. As I suspected, it was going to hit the tanks. Over the next couple of weeks, I will operate again, slicing the tanks for turning.

I shifted to making a top motor mount, which worked out like a champ. I made a strap from one Crazy Horse head to the other, then discovered a couple of tabs that would give me the strength and position I needed to hook up with the frame. Top motor mounts are also tricky. They need to be flexible and somewhat adjustable. I made sure the engine was positioned correctly with my BDL primary backing plate, but you never know if something might shift slightly during final assembly, and the top motor mount must be flexible and iron strong.

Without too much fanfare, I attached a piece of modified angle iron to the right side of the motor mount for a coil hanger. I angled it slightly so the spark plug wires wouldn’t bang or rub against the tank.

Cutting a slot in the fifth tranny mount.

It just happened that I'm building a railing for my mom's house. She's getting feeble, in her old age and needed some additional support. That meant a trip to the local steel supply house, where I stumbled onto some small chunks of angle iron. I didn't like my original number 5 transmission mount, so I decided to remanufacture it with a heftier piece of angle iron that also reached the frame without a problem. It also allowed me a tad more positioning flexibility for the master cylinder and pedal adjustment.

In the next segment, I'll run the progression of Dick Allen illustrations, so you can see the progress. It's as if I'm building the motorcycle, while Dick and Chris Kallas develop the visual story.

I don't know about you, but these illustrations give me hope and inspiration throughout the build process. Next, I will modify the tanks once more for enhanced Paughco Springer turning radius, then we'll mount the Phil's Speed shop ignition and wiring system to a plate I'll make that will bolt to the top of the tanks behind the gas caps.

Forgot to mention, we mounted an old American Legion badge to the BDL Primary. Class.

Also mounted to same plate of steel will be a manual, vintage Sportster replacement, Bikers Choice speedo driven off the rear Black Bike wheel. Hopefully, the wheels will roll in, I'll find some 23-inch tubes and Larry Settle will mount and balance the Avon tires. I'll set up the wheels in the frame and springer, and then haul the bike to Chica in Huntington Beach. He's going to help me with fender design and mounting. In the meantime, I'll watch the inauguration unfold and stay away from tequila. There's more coming, though. I'm going to modify the trans with a 5-1 Baker drum, and build a set of exhaust with D&D bends and pieces. Hang on for the next installment.

It’s time to feature the 1928Shovelhead and American Iron said theywould take it on. They’re the only bookthat accepts antique bikes. I’ve writtenabout four features for them on rare, very coolhistoric models.

No the ’28 Shovel doesn’t fallinto that catagory, but what the hell, it’sgot class. We needed to complete a couple ofdetail mods before Markus Cuff would aim alense at the blue beast. We needed matchingbrake rotors and a PM front brake system. Ipulled a front rotor from the CCI catalog andcontacted Performance Machine for theappropriate front brake caliper and springerbracket.

Much of the following comes directly fromthe very complete Performance Machineinstructions. They don’t mess around.There will be no doubt about the installation ofthis unit. Let’s hit it:

Important Notice FromPerformance Machine

Before installing a caliper or rotor kit,read through these instructions completely;this will familiarize you with the way in whichthe parts fit together and the tools needed tocomplete the job.

In the course of installing these kits youwill be replacing the stock brake caliper(s)and/or rotor(s) with a high-performance brakecaliper(s) and/or rotor(s). Please pay specialattention to the section of the instructionsdealing with the centering of the caliper overthe brake rotor. Actually, I couldn’t findthis section. Generally a set of shims arepacked with calipers. Use the shims andmake sure the caliper is centered over therotor.

The brake caliper(s) used in this kit isdesigned to use DOT 5 brake fluid. Neverreuse brake fluid, don’t use brake fluidthat you are not sure is new and clean. Thisinstallation should only be attempted by amechanic with a thorough understanding ofand experience with motorcycle brakesystems.

If you plan on using the stock brakeline/hose that runs between the mastercylinder and the caliper, then you will be justswitching the line at the caliper’s banjofitting. We recommend that you do notdisconnect the line from the stock caliper untilyou have the new caliper bolted in place andare ready to bleed the brake system. This waythe brake fluid will not run completely out ofthe master cylinder before you have the newcaliper connected.

Front wheel with stock caliperremoved.

Center the motorcycle on thelift so that it will not fallwhile you are working on it.

We used a bungie cord to hold the oldcaliper out of the way.

Loosen brake line and remove the twobolts, lift the caliper up off the rotor and use ashort length of wire or bungie cord to hang itfrom the handle-bars, up out of your way. Onthe 3/8‚ bolt, remove the cotter pin from therear; unscrew the lock-nut, unscrew the boltfrom the threaded bushing in the fendermount and pull it out of the caliper mount andreaction link. On ’93 and later models,use a piece of wire to hold the fender up out ofyour way. Unscrew the axle nut, slide the axleout of the fork and lower the wheel to theground. Remove the caliper mount from theaxle and the bushings and spacers. Keep thisshit around, you’re going to need it.

Here’s the stock bushings, wavywasher and caliper spacer prior toinstallation.

The Springer uses a combination axleseal and caliper mount bushing, with awavy-washer and bronze thrust washerbehind the caliper mount. Remove anddiscard the bronze thrust washer that goesbetween the caliper bracket and the wheel.The PM mount has this thrust washer built-in.Install the PM caliper mount on the axleseal-caliper mount bushing with the wavywasher and raise the wheel assembly up intothe fork.

The caliper bushing and wavy washer inplace on the inside of the bracket.

Here’s the outside brass bushing inplacebetween the rocker and the caliperbracket.

Install the stock outer caliper mount thrustwasher between the caliper mount and thelower fork rocker. This is a factory part thatwas on the fork assembly; the copper coloredside faces the caliper mount. Slide the axlethrough the fork, install the flat washer andaxle nut and tighten the axle nut to 65 ft. lbs.

Here’s that beautiful puppy inplace.

Caliper installation

Removing the outside caliper bolts.

Remove the two chromed Allen end boltsfrom the Performance Machine caliper body,slip the caliper over the rotor and install the5/16 x 1 3/4-inch socket head bolts (Allens)and flat washers. Here’s where youcheck the caliper over the rotor. Step in front ofthe bike and eyeball the pads in the caliper.

Make sure the caliper is centered. Beforethe caliper is tightened down, it must becentered over the rotor; see page 3 for theproper procedure.

Here’s where you make sure thecaliper iscentered over the rotor.

Yep, sure enough they were on pagethree. Here’s what I missed, “The centerline of the caliper is where the two caliperhalves meet. Look down from the top of thecaliper onto the rotor. If it’s offset to theoutside then you need to install mounting boltshims. Shim kit includes six shims, two each:.016, .032. .062-inch. Insert the shimsbetween the mounting boss on the bracketand the caliper body by removing themounting bolts. After the caliper is centereduse Loctite or lock washers and torque thebolts to 22 ft. lbs.”

The small print dictates that failure toproperly center calipers will impede theperformance of this fine braking equipment.They’re right. Do it right the first time.

Attaching The Brake Line

First tape handle bar master lever 1/2 wayclosed. This will prevent fluid from free flowingfrom hose. Remove the end of the brake linefrom the stock caliper.Working rapidly so thatan excessive amount of brake fluid does notrun out of the end of the brake hose, attach theend of the brake line to the new PM caliperusing the PM supplied seal washers, onewasher goes on each side of the banjo fitting.

Position the banjo fitting so that the brakehose does not rub on the frontfender or other part of the motorcycle. I had toreroute my Goodridge brake line. Had to movefast.Tighten banjo bolt to 10 ft. lbs. of torque.

Bleeding The Brake System

You will find it is easier to bleed the brakesystem if you have a helper. First, fill themaster cylinder with DOT 5 brake fluid and putthe cover back on the master cylinder. Attach ashort length of rubber hose to the bleederscrew on the brake caliper. Put the other endof the hose into a coffee can or other suitableclean catch can.

Have your helper pull inon the front brake lever or push down on therear brake pedal five times. At the end of thefifth stroke, have your helper hold the brakelever in or pedal down.

While the helper holds the lever/pedal,open the bleeder fitting on the caliper. You willneed a 1/4 box end wrench. Air and brake fluidshould come out of the end of the hose that isconnected to the bleeder fitting.

After theair and brake fluid have stopped coming out ofthe hose, close the bleeder fitting. Your helpercan now release the brake lever/pedal. Thisaction will force the air that is trapped in thebrake system out the bleeder screw. Repeatthis procedure until the brake become firm orthere’s no air in the line.

Check thefluid level in the master cylinder after eachbleeding. Don’t let the master cylinderrun dry as this will push air back into the brakesystem which will require all-night bleeding.

Do not over tighten thebleeder screw.

Front brakes can be a bear, since airdoesn’t want to flow down the forksthrough the line and out of the caliper throughthe bleeder nipple. Some guys force fluid upthrough the bleeder nipple into the system. Ifyou want to use the above system, sometimesthe caliper needs to be raised above the barsto allow the air to flow to the bleeder nipple.

I’ve discovered that with a littlepatience, bleeding is hardly necessary. Takethe cap off the master cylinder reservior andpump the handle slightly. This allows the airbubbles to rise out of the caliper, up the lineand out the master cylinder. Tap the lines acouple of times and pump the lever slightlyuntil it’s firm. Refill the reservior whenneeded until complete, top it off and call itquits.

Leave it overnight and check it again in themorning. It may take a couple of days beforeall the bubbles are gone, but it’s abreeze.

Here’s a shot of the 1928Shovelhead during the photo shoot forAmerican Iron. It looked sharp thanks to thefinal details from CCI and Performancemachine. Of course, it would be nothing but apile of parts without the talented efforts ofStrokers Dallas and painter Harold Ponteralli.Watch for the feature in American Iron, thenwe’ll post a feature on Bikernet.

Need to see the previous chapter:http://www.bikernet.com/pages/story_detail.aspx?id=9001

Moving right along, I overcame the Wilmington Mung and slipped back into the shop. It’s like self-induced Christmas for the homebuilder each week when UPS arrives or I score something at the bike swap meet. Ya plan, save small bags of gold and reach out to vendors to make deals, then wait.

I got all pumped when the bronze risers drifted in from DPPB in Europe, and I immediately tackled the mounting and handlebars. I hit two hardware stores looking for the proper length hardened studs and the second score was doubtful, but I rolled the dice and bought them anyway. As it turned out, 3-inch ½-inch studs with coarse threads on one end and fine on the other worked perfectly.

I tested the fitment by wrapping masking tape around the fine end 3/8-inch up from the bottom. I screwed them into the narrow Paughco leg, and then installed the riser components to see if I had enough length to reach the top bronze nut. I had plenty of threads, so I move the tape to 5/8 inches of securing fine threads and installed all the components. It all fit like a dream.

Then I went to work searching the shop for a set of bars that would give me the look and be reasonably comfortable. I’m shooting for that 5-Ball Factory Racer look, but a bike comfortable enough to ride to Sturgis. That’s always the acid test, and the road-test adventure. I found a set of sorta TT 1-inch bars sans the dimples, since I was going to turn them upside down. I mounted them to the risers, and then determined that I could cut almost three inches out of the center.

I searched the shop for a chunk of mild steel rod that would make the perfect alignment, strengthening slug for the bars. I removed the burrs from the split tubing and marked the slug center. I tapped it into place, strapped the bars down, so they were perfectly aligned, and MIG-welded them. Just having the bars and risers in place was a rush.

I finally muscled enough cash to have all my welding tanks filled. I took the opportunity to have one tank filled with pure Argon for welding stainless or aluminum. I’ve never welded aluminum, so I broke out my welding book and read the appropriate chapter. I needed twice the gas pressure and almost twice the rod speed and power.

Let me back up for a second. The project was mounting the Crime Scene Rapide headlight. It was a bolt-on procedure, except for the simple aluminum-mounting bung. Once in place, it was impossible to remove the headlight-mounting fastener. I reviewed my options. The fastener would actually touch the top Paughco springs. I looked for an option and found one, but it required welding the existing square bung to the fine-threaded round spacer. I tapped the spacer for clean threads, and then proceeded to weld the two together.

This was a trick. Aluminum must be extremely clean before welding. And since this piece was very small, it could heat up and melt like butter before one pass was completed. I also had some problems with the welder. Since aluminum heats and expands faster that steel, I needed to bore out the tip or run a larger welding tip. The tips come in various sizes, and natch, I didn’t have a slightly larger tip. So Jeremiah grabbed a micrometer and all my tiny drill bits, and started to study the sizes and attempted to drill the tips out. Interesting procedure. We broke bits and jammed them into the bronze MIG welding tips. Finally we succeeded in boring out a tip and the welding moved along.

Then I took to grinding, filing, and rewelding until this headlight bracket was completed. Not bad. I need Jeremiah, the master shaper, to return and give it his final touch.

Paughco carries all the vintage replacement parts, including old footboards and the rare mounting hardware.

Next, I had a plan to use as many vintage H-D parts as possible. I snatched a stock 1936-1957 mechanical brake pedal and mounting plate, which also acted as the front peg or footboard mount. Paughco already made a bracket that bolts under the front motor mount. It makes the stock mounting bosses available for these components.

This is the ’98 Dyna brake pedal and linkage.

This effort placed me eyeball-to-eyeball with a couple of challenges. I needed to make the old mechanical brake pedal operate a hidden hydraulic master cylinder and somehow I had to create a mounting bracket for the rear of the footboard.

There was one more element rearing its ugly head at this point, but yet we turned it into an opportunity. There was no fifth stud mounting plate on the frame, so I started to tinker with a chunk of angle iron. Then I discovered a complete ’98 Dyna rear brake set-up with linkage and the master cylinder. Suddenly, lots of answers were available using the fifth stud-mounting placement.

I had to stop dead in my tracks right there. I needed to make sure the transmission was aligned properly for the whole system to work. The brown Santa arrived with a new BDL Softail, 2-inch enclosed belt drive system I’d ordered just a couple of days ago. I pulled out the inner primary, loosened all the mounting bolts for the engine and trans and started my historic alignment procedure. First, I bolted down the rear of the engine and looked for any gaps at the front motor mount. It had a .020 gap. I found a shim and slipped it into place.

Interesting locking nut system from JIMS.

Next, I attached the BDL inner primary and pulled the JIMS tranny into alignment with the Crazy Horse V-Plus engine. Then I started on the fifth tranny stud-mounting bracket. I planned to run a kicker, and since this power plant is 100 inches strong, the additional mounting element will strengthen the entire driveline.

No, this system didn’t fall into place. I had oil lines to contend with and the brake pedal and master cylinder didn’t align. At first, I had a grand plan to bend the linkage rod into a jog-over to reach the tab I had welded onto the brake pedal pivot tube. That would have created more problems, specifically with the rear footboard mounting. I needed to straighten it out and machine a 2-inch offset link from the pedal over, which kept the entire system in alignment. The critical aspect will be my tab welding. There will be considerable strain on that puppy, but I think it will work.

Then I ran a ½-inch rod off the top of the pedal bracket and machined a spacer that would catch an original classic footboard-mounting arm. I’m trying to tack-weld everything so I can make final adjustments or catch mistakes before it’s too late. I like welding and sometimes can’t stop myself. I tack my handiwork, step back, eyeball it, check it twice and weld the shit outta it. The next morning I discover something I forgot and I’m fucked.

Since I was into footboards, I moved onto the left one. With the help of Sin Wu on her knees, we checked the angle of my 2003 Road King footboards and attempted to match that angle on the 5-Ball Factory Racer. Again, I used a stock mounting plate with foot clutch pedals. I’m going to make the racer a tank shift, so I bolted up the mounting plate and a vintage kicker arm and bracket, but I needed to drill and tap the Paughco bracket for the lower left 5/16 kickstand mount.

I tried to handle a few moves at once and failed. I broke off the tape in the kickstand mounting hole and I’m still pondering my options. I shifted back to floorboard mounting. I was burnin’ daylight trying to remove the tap. I mounted the front of the footboard and snugged it down at the Sin Wu estimated floorboard angle, then pondered how to mount the rear to the BDL outer primary.

I had to insert the BDL mounting studs into the inner primary with red Loctite first, then the aluminum stud arms, and finally the cool, clean outer primary cover. This turned out to be a breeze. I took a vintage footboard mount, cut it off, and welded it to a Bandit-made bracket. It had to carry my weight, so I added a strengthening gusset to the bottom and believed I was good to go.

Phil’s speed shop wiring system. That box holds the ignition switch, starter relay, circuit breakers and high/low beam switch and neutral light.

In the next segment, we will start to tackle the shift linkage system. Duane Ballard’s wife, Lisa, a contributor for the Cycle Source magazine, delivered this vintage tractor seat assembly for us to test and you’ll see our wacky test next issue. We might also start to tackle mounting the Paughco/U.S. Choppers tanks, Phil’s Shop wiring system and the Biker’s Choice Speedometer, which we hope to mount in the tradition of rear-wheel driven speedometers of the ’20s.

Parts, pieces and of course a 5-Ball for the shift linkage.

Paughco tool box mounting coming soon.

It’s all headed your way in the next couple of weeks.

Dick Allen added the vintage riding suit to the FBFR rider.

This shows just a fragment of all the parts involved.

Hang on. Here comes a complete build of a custom CCI Goliath Bike Kit. We built this 100-inch Rev Tech monster in nine days. The bike was assembled to promote the Annual Beach Ride, at the Queen Mary in Long Beach, through the efforts of Custom Chrome, George Hayward and Bikernet.com. We assembled the bike in the Bikernet Headquarters for the children’s charity ride. It was also featured in three issues of American Rider, but this is the extended, unedited version with charts. Before we get started, I want to add an editorial note. If you read this and want to add something, don’t hesitate. We can change the text whenever we goddamn want. If we missed something, you have a special tool, a correction or want to point out what a bunch of baboons we are, don’t stop, send a Your Shot. Let’s hit it.

“What the hell,” Nuttboy mumble, “what did you volunteer me for?” He scratched his butt, with a 9/16 open end wrench, as we loaded box after box of components into the garage. If CCI could somehow ship the components without the retail packaging, they would save a fortune. We had a truck load of plastic peanuts, plastic bags and cardboard.

The Goliath is a complete 100 inch, Rev Tech powered Softail kit. It comes with every nut and bolt. “And a few extras,” Nuttboy chimed in distractedly. Also included was a Softail manual and a Softail Parts book. We also referred to the Tim Remus book, “How To Build A Kit Bike”, from Wolfgang Publications.

“The Remus book was the most help, but there were big gaps in information,” Nuttboy grumbled. “We often had to scan the photos in the book in a fleeting effort to figure out a procedure that wasn’t described.” Maybe this series of articles will help.

The entire bike was built in a garage using normal hand tools. A professional shop came in handy on only two occasions: Pressing the clutch together, tire/wheel assembly and balancing.

The frame, wheel rims, and miscellaneous parts were powder coated by Custom Powder Coating in Dallas (214) 638-6416 to match the hue used by Santini Paint (714) 891-8895, for the sheet metal.

Here’s the massive rear wheel. It was powder coated red on the rim, then clear powdered. Finally George, the Wild Brush, finished the edge with a wide stripe.

“Violent Red I’d call it,” wise-cracked Nuttboy, “it looks hot enough to fry your bratwurst.”

We made sure the tank was pressure tested and sealed at the painter’s. We organized the parts as best we could and once the powder coating was returned Nuttboy shaved off the paint and tape where the motor mounts and tranny mounts were located. Dallas handles frames for American Iron Horse, so they know what to mask, which saved time. Nuttboy started checking the surface around the neck and beating the cups into place with a brass hammer and a massive punch. They must be pressed in completely.

We tried to organize the parts. This was the electrical stack.

We cleaned the area around the cup area on the neck to make absolutely sure the cups would seat entirely. That’s critical. If the cup seats more while vibrating down the road the front end will loosen and add to crucial elements that could lead to a high speed wobble.

We used a 20-year-old Bikernet punch to drive the cups home. Make sure they’re aligned properly.

You can tell by the changing tapping sound that the cup is fully in place.

Note the markings to keep matched bearings and races together.

We separated the cups from the bearings but made sure to note which matched bearing fit in which cup, for the most precise fit. Nuttboy pounded the cups in place with a dab of grease to prevent jamming inside the neck.

Custom Powder Coating did a fine job of taping off the bearing and motormount areas, but each one needed the edges cleaned.

This emery bid worked wonders to clear away paint or soften the edges.

We used a bench polisher to clean the powdered edges on this inner-primary spacer.

Here’s the red billet headlight ring.

Scraping the tape free of the tranny mount for a solid bond.

Some of the frame threads needed chasing which eased assembly. Then Nuttboy bolted in the offset Tranny plate.

“The swingarm spacing was a turkey,” Nuttboy coughed trying to fit the axle. The swingarm axle came with several spacers, none fit perfectly, and we were forced to make spacers and set the swingarm up several times. He gave up on the swingarm and installed the shocks first then the tranny to make allowances for the studs. One had to be shaved due to the offset tranny plate.

Here’s some improved-shock instructions:
Place the motorcycle securely on a stand so no pressure is on the shocks.
Install the new shocks–the hardware was supplied
You’ll need a preload wrench from a dealership to adjust (94455-89).
The preload comes adjusted to the lightest setting. To increase the preload for heavier riders/loads/passengers, loosen the 11/16 locknut and back it off several turns. Use the 11/16 Harley adjustment wrench to turn the adjustment nut counterclockwise to the desired preload setting. Then tighten the 1-inch locknut. Both shocks must be adjusted to the same equal setting.

The swingarm axle came with a variety of spacers, but no guidance. The widened frame was almost two inches wider, maybe more. We would have loved a diagram.

We grappled with it for a couple of hours, then took a research break. Part of the dilemma was the thick red powder coating on the inside of the frame and swingarm parts.

“The fifth stud was removed,” Nuttboy said, “there’s always a stud too many in the Bikernet garage,” Nuttboy commented. Another stud was shortened for clearance. He tightened the tranny plate down but not the tranny until the inner primary is aligned. Directions indicated an Allen plug to replace the 5th stud. We couldn’t find it, so shifted to plan B.

The rear right stud also was ground to clear the shocks due to the offset.

We slipped the engine in from the right. It fit perfectly although Nuttboy had to grind the left rear fin slot, to afford the clearance, for the mounting bolt to fit.

The massive barrels with additional cooling fin area had a slot pre-ground into the rear of the rear cylinder for the motormount bolt, but it wouldn’t fit unless we shaved the bolt or ground one more fin. We ground the fin.

Here’s a 9/16 open end wrench that I bent, with torch heat, years ago to reach that bastard motormount nut behind the inner primary.

We mounted the front motormount bolts in loose at first. With the tranny and engine loose, we used the primary to align the driveline. This move is critical for alignment.

We slid on the inner primary, snugged it down and made sure the engine and the tranny aligned before tightening the motor and tranny mounts down. It’s best to tighten a few bolts, then remove the inner primary, and tighten the final bolts. Nuttboy referred to the stock Softail manual for torque specs (see torque chart at end of article). He made sure to install the rear belt before the swingarm and inner primary. “We still didn’t have the swingarm dialed in,” Nuttboy muttered turning wrenches. “The powder coating was thick and rubbery. This created an issue of tolerance and alignment. We often came to a ‘raise the bridge or lower the river’ type of decision. The swing arm installation gave us a clue, as to the need, to adapt. The instructions were either non-existent or cryptic. So we went with our mechanic’s intuition and marijuana paranoia.”

We also installed the front end on the first day. It was a breeze, except… Nuttboy followed the Remus book and kept in mind that the brake tabs run to the rear of the left leg. He dug through tin drawers to find rubber bumpers to slip over the fork stops and prevent the stops from dinging the frame. We decided to switch the bars for Custom Cycle Engineering, 8-inch, old school, dog bone risers and powder coated bars TT bars. “That will come later,” Nuttboy snapped tightening the lower tree pinch bolts.

The stem was tightened to the lower triple-tree with a counter-sunk Allen on the bottom. We used the supplied red Loctite on anything that was assembled permanently.

Here’s a fork stop in place. Easy livin’. We covered it with a rubber cap to minimize damage to the frame paint.

We used green masking tape around chromed fasteners to prevent peeling the plating. A rubber garden hose like washer goes in the top triple tree then a washer. For some reason these gaskets/oil seals loved to peel out or reacted to the fork tube fluid. We installed the caps loose initially, removed them and poured in 12.5 ounces of fork tube lube. Then we discovered that the assembled lower legs came with loose fasteners on the botton and loose drain plugs, so the fork fluid began to leak.

We replaced both fasteners with Tephlon tape for a secure seal.

Nuttboy torqued the rotors to specs, 18-20 pounds for the front and 25 pounds for the rear and installed the clean billet caliper. The manual called 12.5 ounces of fork lube. That covered our first 6-hour day. The next day, the oil seeped out of one of the legs and was dripping out of the other. Nuttboy was pissed, “We had to re-seal the drain plugs with Teflon tape and tighten the Allens in the bottom of the legs after removing the front wheel.”

Day two began installing the primary drive. We slipped the stator in place with some light grease on the plug. Nuttboy was careful to face the stator so the plug wires ran comfortably inside the case. We greased the plug lightly so it would slide through the case easily. “Make sure to back out the Allen set screw or you’ll be screwed,” Nuttboy barked. “When replacing the screw, take it easy. It can bore right through the plug and cause a short.” He checked to make certain the regulator plug would connect properly before driving the set screw home.

This is a delicate operation. If anything jams, stop and check it. Don’t force the plug, just guide it.

Once the plug protrudes, make sure it gives the regulator plug enough space to make a solid connection.

These little Torx fasteners come pre-Loctite coated. Tighten evenly to 30-40 inch pounds.

One spacer slips over the sprocket shaft before the rotor slides down the splines. It’s key to figure out which spacer is appropriate for the year you’re working with.

I compared several diagrams that run down the installation of rotor to make sure the proper washers were installed. The rotor slipped into place without a problem. “The kit came with a variety of shims to space the compensating sprocket properly with the clutch hub sprocket,” Nuttboy said.

“The Custom Chrome Goliath comes with virtually everything including fluids for the primary, forks, tranny and engine,” Nuttboy gagged, digging through reams of packing material. Once in awhile there was a quirk and the Tim Remus book helped. The chain adjuster parts included fasteners and extra parts, which was occasionally confusing.

The chain adjuster came with several parts including a U-shaped bracket that would generally run on the back of the base plate. We installed the plate with red Loctite on the screws. Later we discovered that the plate had to be removed, because we should have found the proper chart and seen that it used a carriage bolt instead of the U-bracket. Our mistake.

The Bikernet X-Files of fasteners.

“We had an ‘X-Files’ cardboard box for extra fasteners, unnecessary parts, and parts too damned weird to be from this planet,” Nuttboy pointed out clamoring through the box for a solution. “As we assembled the bike, the cardboard shipping boxes flew out the garage door, and the X-Files box overflowed.”

This diagram shows all the elements of the inner primary.

This brings up a key point in building a bike. Read everything first. If we had read Tim’s book from cover to cover, the manual and all the instructions, we would have saved some time. Keep in mind that we built this bike in nine days–part time. We were flying. That’s my goddamn excuse, and I’m sticking to it.

We handled the inner-primary bearing and seal at home with a brass hammer and just the right massive socket.

“This was an area where a pro shop came in handy,” Nuttboy commented trying to force the clutch together. Our garage was not equipped with a press. “Installing seals and bushings must be handled with care,” Nuttboy muttered after reading a comment in Tim’s book. Using a brass hammer and a large socket works, but is not recommended. “A good shop,” Nuttboy said loading the clutch parts in the truck, “like Larry Settle’s in Harbor City, California, can handle this aspect in five minutes.” With the bearing and seal in place, in the inner primary, and the proper bushing selected for the starter coupler, we were ready to install the inner primary and torqued the bolts to 20 pounds.

This bushing was also handled in the Bikernet Headquarters.

These are a bunch of tricky parts. Follow the diagram carefully.

Here’s another shot of the starter shaft components. It’s easy, but make sure you have them in the correct order.

Should slip right in with some help between the inner primary and the tranny.

Picking the proper bushing was a key element. Since we didn’t have trememdous experience with various models we used the starter shaft parts as a guide.

Here’s the outter primary bushing gooped with Never Cease.

The inner primary was torqued into place. Don’t force it and make sure all the O-rings are in place around the engine spacer.

Here’s that goddamn chain adjuster in place.

Subscribe to American Rider, I did.

“Hold it,” Nuttboy barked from under the lift. “We inspected the edges of the powder coated wide drive spacer, first,” Nuttboy grumbled. “We greased the O-rings for a solid seal. The guys who worked with Tim on his book recommended Never-Cease instead of grease for primary related slippery parts.” The starter gears were a trick and we used the manual for guidance. Nuttboy installed the regulator after cleaning the installation area for a solid ground. He also installed the starter. That blew through another day, 8 hours.

Nuttboy ground off the regulator mount paint with the emery bit for a solid ground.

This was a bad and unsuccessful move. Larry Settles pressed the clutch together in five minutes at his shop. We need a press in the Headquarters.

We started the third day with the clutch hub and shell pressed together at Larry Settles’ and the fiber plates soaked in primary fluid over night. Nuttboy installed the clutch and compensating sprockets with the wide drive shaft extensions and shims. We tightened the Clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds of torque and the compensating sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds of torque. Then he checked the alignment of the primary chain and adjusted the shims behind the shaft extension to give us a .004 to .014 tolerance. After Nuttboy adjusted the clutch pushrod, it was time to bolt up the outer primary with a new gasket.

The fiber clutch plates were soaked for 24 hours in primary lube.

Here’s the pieces used with the clutch pushrod to adjust the clutch. Final pieces to be installed with clip ring pliers after the clutch is torqued into place.

Here’s the compensating sprocket shims. After the clutch is installed and the sprocket with the chain we measured from the chain to edge of the inner primary with feeler gauges to make sure that the distance from the front of the chain to the clutch was no more than .014 inch. If not we needed to adjust the shims.

Here’s the various bushings out of focus.

We cleaned up the countersunk holes for a tight fit.

Ah, the primary locked-up. Don’t forget the fluid.

This is the primary drain plug with magnet attached and Tephlon tape in the background.

Primary plug in place. Later we were suspicious and pulled it, shaved off half of the magnet and replaced it. It may have been hitting the clutch.

“Ah, but first,” Nuttboy corrected, “we determined the correct bushing to press into the outer primary for the starter pinion gear. With primary installed Nuttboy bolted in the drain plug with Teflon tape and filled the inner primary to 1/4 inch above the clutch shell lip (with the bike upright) and attached the derby cover with an O-ring.

Here are the components involved with the top motormount. Keep in mind that the horn bracket is part of the mixture, unless you’re like me and would toss it in the trash.

Next we installed the top motor mount, horn and choke bracket. Watch this little puzzle closely. I ended up dropping the horn down some to make for more clearance.

We trimmed a fastener to fit.

Ultimately we discovered that the gas tank touched the motormount bracket and had to move some spacers around.

We found the oil tank brackets (unchromed) packaged with the rear axle. We primered them and painted them black.

Nuttboy then installed the battery cables. Tim’s book was helpful determining which cable went where. “It’s good to install them before you attempt the oil can assembly,” Nuttboy pointed out. The oil can brackets were vacuum packed with the rear axle and un-chromed. It was a hunt to find them.” Nuttboy spat. “Who would expect to find oil tank brackets packed with the rear axle?”

We moved onto the front wheel which had been powder coated and cleared by Custom Powder Coating, then George, The Wild Brush (310) 488-5488 pinstriped both wheels to conceal the powdered edge. The front wheel was a breeze using the one long spacer on the right and two short spacers for the left portion of the axle.

Make sure the wheel is centered and tightened down. Then with the supplied shims, center the caliper over the rotor.

“One had a small lip that fits in the seal and prevents it from falling out,” Nuttboy pointed out, his bike building, education expanding. Then we installed the caliper.

One of the most time-consuming aspects of building a bike is hunting and or making shims and spacers. Lotsa tools helps out.

Nuttboy shaving a washer for a perfect fit.

We sought to center the swingarm in the frame by manipulating spacers and shims.

Here’s some of the tools involved in spacer/fitment wars.

It took some precision calculations to fabricate the perfect fit.

Finally we shifted back to the swingarm and spacing madness. Nuttboy worked the spacers until it was centered in the frame. “Where the shaft was a delicate problem,” Nuttboy grumbled, “the rear wheel was no problem.” He followed the supplied diagram to the tee, although one spacer had to be altered, perhaps due to the thickness of the protective powder coating.

Sure we stumbled from time to time. We don’t build Softails daily, but the Beach Ride Bike was flying together. That summed up day three. Stay tuned as we stumble back into the teetering garage.

TORQUE SETTINGS

 

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Grab a beer, here’s part five of the Goliath Bike Build for the Exceptional Children’s Foundation Beach Ride. This promotional project wouldn’t be possible without the contribution and support of George Hayward, who funded it. The crew of Bikernet.com built the bike with additional hands belonging to a novice American Rider, Nuttboy. His past is too sordid to mention.

The frame, wheel rims, and miscellaneous parts were powder coated by Custom Powder Coating in Dallas (214) 638-6416 to match the hue used by Santini Paint (714) 891-8895, for the sheet metal.

As we wrapped up the third day of construction last issue we had installed the entire driveline front-end and both wheels. We were rocking with the assistance of the Tim Remus book, How To Build A Kit Bike. The book is available in the Bikernet Gulch. Let’s get to work.

Nuttboy kicked off day four by installing the coil, which would seem a no-brainer. The bracket bolted to the frame stress tube behind the engine. The coil installed effortlessly, then the powder coated cover slipped into place. Unfortunately the cover fasteners didn’t line up.

“Small buzzing tools and a careful hand corrected the problem,” Nuttboy muttered setting the dremel tool on the lift.

Setting up sparkplug wires isn’t rocket science. Measure them correctly, leaving plenty of slack for trimming. Make sure to pull the rubber boots on first so you don’t have to drag them over the brass fittings.

Also, trim plenty of insulation away from the carbon wire to make considerable contact when you bend the center over the end and press it between the insulation and the brass fitting. You don’t want it to vibrate loose and pop free to lose connection.

This takes finesse. Pinch them in from the sides then down in the center with needle nose pliers.

Nuttboy shifted to oil tank installation. The first aspect launched us into an interesting stumbling block. We couldn’t find the brackets for the oil tank? They weren’t with the oil tank at all. We dug through box after box. Here’s the key. If we ordered a complete Santee frame, it would be shipped with the oil tank and rear axle. Since we ordered the entire kit, the rear axle was vacuum wrapped separately from the frame and oil tank.

Guess what was plastic sealed with the rear axle? Yep, the two brackets for the front of the tank and the one long rear bracket. The oil tank is mounted front and rear with rubbermounted studs. Take it slow to figure out what goes where. Install everything loose first.

Since the mild steel brackets were missing in action we didn’t have them chromed or powder coated. That left the two-stage black rattle-can finish. We cleaned and primered them, then after 24 hours, hit them with a couple of coats of gloss black.

Here’s the case vent that runs directly to the inside front oil tank fitting.

Nuttboy took care to run the vent line first, then the oil pump to filter hose following the diagram that comes with the RevTech 100-inch engine. He made absolutely sure to run lines carefully clear of sharp edges or hot parts. Next he installed the oil line from the filter to the tank.

This line runs comfortable under the oil tank to allow draining clear to a funnel. You don’t want it to show, but make it as long as possible.

This one was a bastard to run.

Finally the feed line ran from the tank to the pump, “I don’t know why the it ran around the frame tube,” Nuttboy cussed, “It was a bitch to reach.” He noted that often it’s best to slip the hose clamps over the rubber tubes prior to sliding them over nipples. “Watch for the positioning of the clamp fasteners,” Nuttboy added, “It will save time and frustration.”

Here’s the return line from the oil pump to the oil filter.

After the oil tank was installed Nuttboy decided to bolt up the ground strap. Here’s one of those reasons for never tightening something before you know it’s in the right spot. He installed a ground strap backward and we were forced to drill out the lug.

Next we picked a spot at the rear of the frame behind the oil tank to use as the ground. We cleaned away the heavy powder coating and sanded it to a bare frame before installing the cable. The cable runs from behind the starter to the frame and from behind the starter to the negative battery terminal for the best possible ground.

Next he dug through the parts box to find the forward foot controls. The right side connected easily to the frame with blue Loctite. The Left shift lever bracket and kickstand took a 1-inch spacer to make up for the offset primary, then we ran into a problem mounting the kickstand.

The right side bolted right up with Blue Loctite.

You can see the billet aluminum offset spacer to push the controls out an inch. We also needed longer bolts.

We used additional washers to solve a spacing hassle and moved ahead. All the fluids came with the kit, so Nuttboy quickly filled the oil tank. Another half day had slipped away.

You can see where the kickstand bracket hit the backing plate for the shifter. Rather than grinding the plate we searched for some spacing washers to handle the job.

The Goliath kit comes with a massive Rick Doss, side mount, license plate and taillight bracket. We decided to use some aspects of it and tighten the look of the bike some. We drilled the bracket, dug around through drawers for the proper spacer and hardware and redesign the right footpeg mount to incorporate the license and taillight. It worked out tight and right.

Here’s the spacer we found and the bolt.

We drilled the bracket to 1/2-inch for the footpeg stud, ran the license vertical and were good to go.

That’s it for this week. Stay tuned. We’ll try to drop in a Goliath tech every-other week until this puppy roars to life. If you’re interested in a bike build, order a Custom Chrome catalog first. It will give you tremendous info.

Stay Tuned.

–Bandit

 

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ONLY $9.95 + 6.95 Shipping**

Day five kicked off with a guessing-game tribute. It took us nine days to build this sonuvabitch and nine months to post the articles. No excuses, we’re getting there. We had to figure out which hydraulic lines and fittings went where. Nuttboy set up all the lines loose to test various configurations.

“Take some time,” Nuttboy muttered wondering if he had it right, “there’s no set rule.” There was just enough flexibility with the brake switch mounting to keep us guessing. Three puzzling lines were involved: Front brake, rear caliper to brake switch and brake switch to master cylinder.

They’re a bitch to get at with a 3/4 wrench. Stay calm.

Before locking down any lines we decided to adjust the shocks. They can only be properly calibrated with the bike jacked up to relieve any pressure. Then the eyes were released from the swingarm and spun. They don’t adjust from the center.

We set the bike low for looks, and for fender installation clearance. If we had set the bike high, mounted the fender then lowered it, we might have encountered fender rubbing problems. Ultimately we experienced the swingarm smacking the frame rails. I did some research and discovered other experienced builders with similar maladies. We spaced the rubber stoppers out to prevent further problems.

Various banjo bolts are supplied. Before tightening try them out in various positions for the best line run and no abrasion.

The hydraulic lines were notoriously long, but better long than short. With some creative ability we altered the position of the brake switch to make up for extra line length. Nuttboy Teflon coated fittings without copper or soft O-ring gaskets and tightened them appropriately.

The front brake line was a breeze due to the assortment of fittings and one accurately measured line. The simple Rick Doss bracket with directions installed effortlessly under the bottom triple-tree for a custom touch.

With the lines worked out we installed the brake switch to the tranny for a clean, out-of-the-way installation.

Here’s the front brake banjo fitting in place with soft metal washers.

Next Nuttboy installed the speedo sensor in the trans. We searched for a 1/4-inch longer 1/4-20 Allen for the cap and 6-speed spacer. Since one didn’t come with the kit, we used a stainless Allen bolt that we polished for a chromed look.

We discovered that there is a specific position for this plate. It won’t go on the other side of the tabs and install the fasteners just so or they’re a bitch to get at.

Nuttboy installed the powder coated rear splashguard with CCI supplied chromed fasteners. Since it wasn’t chromed we went with powder-red for a matched look. “Keep in mind,” Nuttboy spoke up after his second beer, “the splashguard goes on inside of the swingarm tabs, not the side closest to the tire.” We burned through another four hours and ducked out of the Bikernet headquarters.

 

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BRAND NEW CUSTOM CHROME CATALOG RELEASED–

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ONLY $9.95 + 6.95 Shipping**

Day six, we checked our seven-day deadline. We had one day remaining. The powder coated pulley arrived from Texas with the edge polished and cleared. It was a nasty touch to the overall look of the bike. The Goliath came with a solid narrow pulley to match the massive rear wheel, but we decided on a change from H-D to add some detail. Not bad.

“I got in trouble,” Nuttboy muttered shuffling his boots on the deck, “I installed the pulley bolts in haste and dinged the swingarm paint above the axle with the ratchet extension.” By moving the wheel back, with the axle adjusters, clearance was enhanced. Nuttboy tightened the red Loctite touched fasteners to 55-65 foot pounds. The brake rotor was fastened with blue Loctite to 25-30 foot pounds of torque.

Here’s our rear axle spacers. Keep in mind that axle spacers are configured before paint and often need adjusting. It’s a pain in the ass without a small bench lathe. We’re working on one now. We taped, ground and faced these for the most accurate fit.

Don’t tighten anything until the tanks are tested for placement and alignment.

George delivered the sharp sheet metal from Santini Paint, and we quickly jumped the custom tank and suddenly noted that the top engine motor-mount position had to be adjusted for clearance. First off, we pried rubber grommets into the tank tabs using a wooden wedge to prevent damage to the paint or grommets.

Nuttboy installed the tank bracket and one side of the tank then chased the powder coated threads on the frame backbone. He installed the petcock considering the angle and position of the nipple and how the hose would route to the carb. Next he installed the gas line, the fuel filter, and the gas caps.

Here’s the top motormount in place.

All the threads in the frame needed to be chased with the appropriate tap. Even then alignment problems arise. Take your time and don’t lose it. Just poor another Corona and take it easy.

Had to chase these backbone tank mount threads, also.

It’s not a bad notion to install the clamp loose before running the line to the back of the Mikuni carb. Watch how the clamp will face for ease of access. Then with needle nose plier push the line over the carb nipple until it seats completely against the step for the best, no danger, secure fit.

Note the white plumber’s tephlon tape to prevent leaks. You can always peel the tape away after the petcock is secured. Again these puppies are puzzles that need to be thought through for position and direction of the valve lever and spigot.

“Note,” Nuttboy interjected, “that the left gas cap has left-handed threads.” The bottom of the petcock was also left handed. “Don’t tighten them to the base,” Nuttboy added. “We centered the fittings in the threads. Then with Teflon coating the threads I screwed it into the tank bottom.” If the petcock wasn’t aimed properly we loosened the tank collar, aimed it and tightened it down. Another day slipped away.

Layla made the fender rail templates and we cut the holes in them. If I had to do it again, I would have cut the cardboard hole more precisely.

Day Seven

Day seven started with templates, our lovely female assistant, made of the fender rails and marked mounting holes. We installed the rails loose and masked them to prevent damage to the sheet metal. We created 1 1/4-inch spacers, taped them to the tire, made sure the wheel was aligned and removed the jack. We also adjusted the belt, so that the wheel was in running position. We chose 1 1/4 inches for the following reasons. The bike was lowered to the point that it had less than an inch of travel, maybe 3/4-inch. If it bottomed it still wouldn’t hit the fender by 1/2 inch. Keep in mind that there’s a seat bracket stud under the fender. Clearance was needed.

“This was a tough one,” Nuttboy said, “There wasn’t any specific fender mounting guidelines. We used the seat, styling looks and fender to tire spacers to indicate fender position.” I’m still not sure we did it correctly. Note the fender rail position, although it fit the seat perfectly.

We mounted the rails loosely, so as not to scratch the fender. We ran painter’s tape along the fender to protect the paint. We made comparitive measurement until we were blue in the face, trying to insure the bastard was right on. I’m still not sure. With the fender in place (we hoped), we marked it with a grease pencil.

We used a block of wood to support the walls of the fender during drilling. We didn’t want to bend the fender, dent it or crack the paint. We discovered later while fastening the rear fender seat bracket that there was a good 3/16s of Bondo on the back.

This was a critical operation. We used the templates positioned within our grease pencil lines, then punched the sheet metal as close to the center of our cardboard holes as possible. There’s just enough slack in the grease pencil outline, the cut out holes and the cardboard to make this a scary operation.

Using a grease pencil we marked the position of the fender rails on the fender, then the templates were used to note the position of the mounting holes. “First,” Nuttboy added with a bark, “drilling the mounting holes should take place before painting to prevent goof ball damage to the paint job.” He was right. Position the fender first, drill the holes and then paint the sucker. We had a screaming deadline an all the components rolled to powdercoating and paint before we could fuck with them. Ah, but George took the rails out to a machinist and had them radiused for a more refined look.

Once the holes were fucked with enough to make all the bolts fit, we put the rails in place and positioned it, as a unit, onto the frame. We tried it, aligned it, altered holes until we were satisfied. Then with the fender in this position we could tighten the domed Allen heads with Loctite before locking the fender in place.

It’s helpful to drill the cardboard template and make sure that it is marked as exactly as possible. Then center-punch the fender and drill the first hole with a small bit. “Pray that the holes line up,” Nuttboy added. They didn’t and some monkey-business was necessary. That ended day seven.

 

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BRAND NEW CUSTOM CHROME CATALOG RELEASED–

Custom Chrome’s new offering for 2004. The California based distributor brings you the most comprehensive product offering in the Harley-Davidson aftermarket! At over 1,200 pages and over 22,000 part numbers, their 2004 Catalog features the new RevTech 110 Motor, Hard Core II, Ares bikekits and noumious frames and forks–everything from nuts & bolts to performance products. It’s the Custom Bike Bible for the year.

ONLY $9.95 + 6.95 Shipping**

Day Eight

Day eight started at 11:30 a.m. when Nuttboy drilled the seat bracket hole, being careful not to drill through the tire. “Care must be taken mounting the seat grommet,” Nuttboy added. “There was a good 3/16-inch of bondo on the top of the fender.”

Care was taken to not over-tighten the grommet and destroy the paint.

We were rockin’. We cleaned the fender holes, installed the bolts to the rails, loose and installed the fender on the frame with the rails attached, checked the fender location, tightened the rear fender bolts then rocked the fender, attached to the fender rails, forward and tightened the remaining bolts. Finally Nuttboy tightened the Allens holding the rails against the frame.

We had our fingers crossed that all was aligned properly or we’d be boiled in oil.

We moved right onto the powder coated handlebars and discovered that the throttle wouldn’t slip over the coating.

Powdercoating bars is cool, but a pain in the ass. The paint fucks with the throttle movement and needs to be removed. It also messes with everything else that mounts to the bars including switch housings.

“Sanding was required,” Nuttboy explained. We didn’t use the pullback bars that came with the kit and replaced them with TT-bars and 8-inch Custom Cycle Engineering traditional dogbone risers.

Here’s the Custom Cycle Engineering old school risers. The rubber grommets in the top triple trees need to be removed and replaced with solid mounts for this type of riser.

I use these on most of my bikes for a couple of reasons. I like the rowdy style, the elimination of vibration from the bars, and they shove bars back about two inches for better position.

The bars, controls, switches, clutch and throttle cables are a bear. “Take your time,” Nuttboy muttered remembering the process. “I could have used four midget hands easily.” The right side is more complex because it encased throttle cables and throttle tension adjustment fasteners.

The tension screw was slipped into the base then Nuttboy struggled to fit a very tiny C-clip onto the shaft, so the adjuster could never vibrate out.

This is where a very small woman comes in handy.

“Lube the cables before installation with a thin oil or silicone lubricant,” Nuttboy muttered. The throttle cables have two different diameter housings so you can’t go wrong. The cable with the spring on the end is the return cable. Make sure the throttle cables are routed cleanly, no binding.

We lubed the cables with a fine oil.

I greased the housing to prevent cable wear which is unlikely on the tephlon throttle.

This shot shows both cables and cable ends in place. It’s tough to hold all these elements in place in addition to the switch housing, while slipping everything into place.”The front of the tranny must be removed to fit the clutch cable in place,” Nuttboy said and reminded me to re-adjust clutch push-rod afterwards. “And don’t glue any bar grips in place before all the switch boxes and controls are fitted.”

Here’s the clutch cable in place. Remember the dime adjustment. Adjust the clutch push rod until there is a quarter turn of slop. Then fool with the cable until you can pull on the cable next to the housing and slip a dime into the gap.

The polished stainless steel belt guard was sharp and clean. Nuttboy also installed the stainless belt guard, which didn’t align with the mounting holes and took some time to modify. No problem. Keep in mind that we assembled this custom in slightly over a week. With a month, this would have been a breeze.

We were into our eighth day when we used the gravity method of bleeding the front brakes. We filled the master cylinder, pumped carefully and allowed the air bubbles to escape through the reservoir.

Keep the master cylinder filled with DOT 5 brake fluid. Jiggle the caliper and the line once in a while and the air will move north and escape through the master cylinder.

While it did its thing, we turned to the wiring. We’ll get to final aspects of the Goliath masterpiece in the next couple of weeks. Hold us to it. If you don’t see the wiring tech posted send me an e-mail. We need to wrap it up and go for a ride.

Here’s the rear brake during the bleeding process. When lines run parallel air bubbles are often trapped.

I often remove the caliper, slip a file in between the pads (similar thickness to the rotor) and lift it to allow the air to escape. Then I bleed it as usual.

That’s is for this week. See you next time.

–Bandit

WIRING MADNESS–THE LAST TECH

We even cleaned muffler bracket threaded holes we didn’t use.

Okay, we’re late launching this, like by several months. I apologize and I’ve wired another bike between this bastard and now, so my memory fades. This predominately, took place on the ninth day of the build. Hell, we built the bike faster than we wrote or launched the articles–go figure. I prefer to wire bikes with few bullshit, little switches and gadgets that could leave me alongside the road. This called for nearly stock Softail wiring, although we did ditch the turn signals. The absolute keys to wiring are care, patience and a sketched out plan.

Draw a pencil sketch of the bike and where the components are positioned. The Thunder Heart wiring system came with three schematics. We had to figure out which one was appropriate for this scoot. Once we had it (Typical EHC Softail Wiring), nailed down wiring moved along .

“Yeah right,” Nuttboy spouted, “the headlight wires were not marked high or low beam, neither were the taillight wires or coil wires.” Some testing was required. The directions called for viewing the main circuit plugs from the mating end. “That wasn’t the case and we lost time, damaged the connectors, plus disassembling at the connector plugs is a bear,” he said and gulped his Corona. Fortunately we soldered each connection for a secure, lasting working fit.

The black EHC box strapped to the frame.

The Thunder Heart consists of five major components. There are four harnesses: one for each side of the handlebars, one front harness, and one rear harness. There is also one central harness controller.

“They also pack in all the shrink-wrap, tie-wraps and connectors we needed,” Nuttboy added.

Each harness plugs into the central control unit. “We attached each wire to the terminal plugs,” Nuttboy said cringing. Individual wires are pushed through the backside of the plug. Then the connectors must be crimped into place and finally pushed into the plug base.

“We could go on about the wiring all night,” Nuttboy sniveled.

This shows the position of the EHC under the dash. There’s plenty of wire to reach any component.

It’s true, but if you follow the code above and read the instruction, then take your time, you’ll be pleased with the outcome. The instructions call for mounting the Split Tank EHC control unit on the top frame tube between the gas tanks. The black plastic mounting base is molded to fit the tube radius and slotted to accept zip tie fasteners. The EHC latches onto the mounting base via the three mounting tabs so that the diagnostic instructions are visible with the dash removed.

Just another goddamn connector.

With the EHC mounted, attach the rear harness connector to the EHC mating connector. Notice that each wire is labeled according to its function. Route each wire to its destination, but do not cut to length just yet. Keep wires bundled together until they need to break off to their destination. Try to minimize the number of branches from the main harness by combining wires that branch off closely in one larger branch as they will make the heat shrink easier to apply later.

Use electrical tape to construct branch points and to temporarily attach harnesses while fitting is done. Remember to allow extra length for suspension movement or strain relief when locating attachment points. Take care to route harness away from sharp edges, surfaces that may pinch wires or hot pipes. Wires not used should be terminated at the connector to prevent short circuits. Repeat this procedure for the front harness and the right/left control harnesses. When all wires are routed and the harnesses are temporarily attached at their mounting points, cut the excess length from the ends of the wires leaving them approximately 3 inches too long for the final fitment.

Note: the horn and aux power circuits are found on both front and rear harness connectors to allow for different mounting locations. Use the most convenient one for the horn, both aux power circuits may be used, or not, as needed.

Once the harness has been trial fitted to the bike, remove it for the next step, which is to apply the heat shrinkable tubing. Starting from the main connector, cut a piece long enough so that it extends 1-inch past the first branch intersection. This extra length will allow the tubing for the branches to slide into the main tubing. This creates a smooth transition to the other legs of the harness. When a tubing section ends at a termination point (connector/terminal) slide a long piece into the main tubing and then cut at the end of the wire (taking off the last 1/4-inch or so of wire as well).

With the heat shrink tubing installed, use a heat gun to shrink the tubing starting at the main connector and working to the other end. Now refit the harness to the bike attaching the main connector to the EHC first, then attaching the harness to the frame where necessary. Finally, cut the ends of the harness to length allowing room for motion and strip the ends. Attach the terminals to the wire ends and use the heat gun to shrink the strain reliefs (if no shrink tube is attached to the terminal use the 1-inch pieces supplied in the kit.)

The EHC is designed to control LED type dash indicators. LEDs are brighter, vibration resistant, more power efficient, usually need no replacement and are generally easier to mount on a custom bike. When a Thunder Heart LED indicator panel is used, simply find a suitable mounting location and plug the supplied cable into the EHC.

Day nine started with Bloody Marys at noon. We wired the speedo to the tranny using separate connectors from what the kit offered. We ground the instrument dash to the frame.

Here’s another goddamn wiring connection in place.

Custom Chrome even supplied the battery insulation for the tank.

“This is all a trick of taking the time to route and combine the wires carefully,” Nuttboy added wringing his hands.

The dash was tricky to align for mounting and we fought it for a half hour. “We carefully drilled and taped the 1/4-20 hole in the frame,” Nuttboy pointed out, “to mount the rear of the dash.” We took a break to chase women then returned to the fray.

Next we cut the supplied Samson baffles in half to prevent over restricting the big straight pipes, then cut the pipes slightly to even the length and attached down-turned muffler tips.

Actually San Pedro Muffler helped us with the modified exhaust, which we mounted to the right side transmission bracket for a clean, secure and light assembly.

We drilled through the tranny bracket with a 3/8-inch drill.

The plan included these tabs welded to the Golaith exhaust.

Here’s where the tabs needed to fit. Can you see it?

We couldn’t leave the pipes alone. They were 2-inch and bone straight. We added some baffle for performance back pressure downward tips for style and a respectable exhaust tone.

I tacked these bastards in place but my MIG welding experience lacked any class. I needed help.

Here’s the hardware we used for the job.

These shots are embarrassing. I swear I’ve improved my MIG welding techniques since then.

Tim at San Pedro muffler saved our butts with his MIG welding expertise.

Since we had just over a week to build this beast, no time for re-chrome. Rattlecan black over Tim’s, San Pedro Muffler, much improved welds.

So what do you think of the finished jobs?

We also modified the Doss taillight (that is designed to run on the right side unlike most side-mounted lamps) and passenger peg for a tighter look. The tinkering and break-in period was upon us.

There’s always a forgotten something. Don’t forget fluids for the tranny, engine and primary.

“Damn,” Nuttboy shouted from the garage. “We forgot the cross-over vent tube between the gas tanks. “

Watch out, when we reveal the finished product, the co-workers and the cheer-leading team of San Pedro alley punks. Don’t miss it. I swear, in the next couple of days.

 

Click to order Catalog!

BRAND NEW CUSTOM CHROME CATALOG RELEASED–

Want the Custom Chrome’s new offering for 2005. The California based distributor brings you the most comprehensive product offering in the Harley-Davidson aftermarket! At over 1,500 pages and over 25,000 part numbers, their 2005 Catalog features the new RevTech 110 Motor, Hard Core II, bikekits, frames and forks–everything from nuts & bolts to performance products. It’s the Custom Bike Bible for the year. No, this is not the latest book, just click on it to find the real deal.

ONLY $9.95 + 6.95 Shipping**
** Price may have changed.

This was actually one of the easiest bikes I’ve ever wired. It’s not a bad notion to sketch out a wiring diagram with consideration for the placement of the components. Think about it long and hard, then take your time. Below this mess I ran the Hardcore Choppers basic wiring diagram and tips on wiring anything.

First, there’s the regulator that bolts over the front motormount. I use Compu-Fire regulators for reliability and they are wired not to over-work the alternator. So you plug the regulator into the case for the alternator connection, run a ground strap under the frame where the rubbermount bolts and the final hot wire to the hot side of the battery, or the hot side of the ignition switch. That wire feeds the charge back to the battery. Presto, goddamnit, the charging system is complete.

I’m lazy and want the wiring system to be as easy and component free as possible. No extra lights, no turn signals, no horns, buzzers or ringdings. I use Bob McKay’s marine ignition switches for toughness, reliability and ease of wiring. They are distributed by CCI or, if not in stock, contact Bob directly (519-935-2424).

Here’s the back of the CCI dual coil bracket originally designed by Dave Perewitz. Ultimately this bracket housed the ignition switch, the choke arm, the circuit breaker and the high/low beam switch.

I made the choke nob bracket out of a 1/16-inch plate of mild steel. Ultimately I welded on another segment on the other end for the high/low beam switch.

I like heavy duty toggle switches for durability. They’re tough, if you can hide them.

The switch is so complete so you don’t need a starter relay. All it takes is one wire to the starter, one wire from the battery and one wire to the circuit breaker. From the breaker a wire runs to the Compu-Fire single fire ignition system via the coils, one wire to the brake switch, one wire to the taillight and one wire to the highbeam switch. From the highbeam switch two wires ran to the headlight. From the Compu-Fire electronic ignition wires ran to the two Dyna Coils, front and rear and one hot wire that runs to both and the ignition circuit breaker. I ran only one 30-amp H-D circuit breaker, just a couple of inches from the ignition switch.

I apologize for not taking more shots, but when you’re concentrating on wiring, shifting focus to take notes and photographs is a bitch. Well, it’s troublesome for this bastard. I ran this loom through the frame backbone from the top motormount to battery under the seat. It held several 16 gauge wires for the brake light, taillight, then a 14 gauge wire for starter and a 12 gauge to the battery.

Since I don’t have space for idiot lights (there’s a highbeam indicator on the headlight), I need to run a oil pressure gauge on the engine.

I only use Terry Components brake cables for their service and flexibility. The trick was to find and place the ground straps. The Terry ground strap ran comfortably from the negative side of the battery to the 5/16 starter mounting bolt. That grounded it to the driveline, but I needed a ground from the tranny to the frame. I worked that out by bolting another strap to the sidemount license plate frame bracket (welded to the frame), by making sure the paint was shaved away. I also used the 1/4-20 Allen to support the taillight ground strap. Let’s see, have I forgotten anything?

 

Here’s the back of the Goodridge stainless brake switch junction. This allowed me to hide the brake switch under the tranny along with the brake fluid reservoir.

This shows the Compu-Fire starter solenoit where the wire was due to run from the ignition switch. The big 3/8s post was destined for the positive Terry battery cable.

Here’s the back of the taillight bracket. All wires were run carefully through protective loom or shrink-wrap.

Just before we completed wiring, Giggie, from Compu-Fire, and delivered the new Compu-Fire 53700 hot starter designed to fit any big twin H-D from’90 up. All the special hardware is included and it’s rated to 2KW and was actually shorter by .150-inch for clearance dilemmas with Softail oil cans.

The starter roller bearings are 30 percent longer and it comes with shims to allow builders to install the starter perfectly. The Air gap between the pinion gear from the starter to the ring gear on the clutch basket needs to be between .75 and .125. If it’s too short the pinion gear can’t spin before engagement and collides with the ring gear. It needs to get a tad of momentum going. On the other hand, if the distance is too great, the starter gets up to full speed and fights engagement.

Here’s an example of the starter .026 shims.

Measuring the air gap between the starter gear and the clutch ring gear.

The measurement is difficult and Giggie uses a 1/8 Allen which is .125 across the flats. The shims are .026. Even the coupler on this new Compu-Fire starter is designed for lowered bike, to duck the belt.

Oil pump relief cap removed.

The wiring was completed and we were ready to fire the beast, but first Giggie recommended that we burp the bubbles out of the engine by removing the pump relief cap and using an Allen to pull up the valve and let bubbles pass for a pure oil lubrication.

The bastard fired right up, the Mikuni gushed gas, but as soon as it fired the Mikuni float bowl settled down.

The RevTech 88 ready for the road.

We often get calls for basic wiring diagrams. Here’s one that was taken from an old Easyriders and expanded by the wizards of Hard Core Chopper Magazine in Japan.

Take your time. Keep those copper strands away from sharp edges, moving stuff (like chains) and hot items. Cover everything with shrink wrap. Use extra layers of shrink wrap for more protection and stronger connections. I like to solder connections for a solid, vibration free contact, but some prefer crimping connections to avoid wicking. Watch out. Some of the littlest, coolest switches go to shit in a week under 100 mph vibration.

The Frank Kaisler, patent pending, wire junction tool. Send $99.99 to P.O. Box 666, Hollywood, Calif. Send only rolls of quarters.

Don’t forget to work in circuit breakers and fuses. If one blows, disconnect the battery and research the problem. I like Terry battery cables for their flexibility, and they allow more amps to flow to the starter because of their low resistance.

Couple more tips: Watch out, wiring around the front-end. That sucker needs to turn. Don’t run the electrical connections too tight. If you run wires through the frame, debur the openings and use extra shrink wrap to protect fragile insulation.

Here’s a shot of deburing from our Road King tech on highbar installation.

Here’s the famous Frank Kaisler sharp edge test using tissue paper. If it snags or tears, more sanding and smoothing is required.

Bandit generally uses 16-gauge for most of the wiring, 18-gauge in the bars and 12-gauge from the battery to the ignition switch.

I called Frank Kaisler, a tech writer for decades, and before I finished reading the above he shouted across the line, “Yeah right, but you’re forgetting plenty, dipshit. Don’t forget to tell ’em about the breakers. Use a 30-amp breaker between the battery and the main electrical circuit (or the battery and the ignition switch). You can use one of the breaker lugs to attach the regulator hot line to minimize wires to the battery. Use 12 gauge wire for the main leads. Use a 15 or 20-amp breaker between the ignition switch and all the lighting connections.

“Goddamnit, you didn’t explain wicking. Solder creeps under the insulation when it flows. The wire will flex against that soldered area and may break.”

“Yeah right, after two hundred years,” I muttered

“Shut up and listen,” Frank lit another cigarette.

“Quit smoking,” I babbled over the phone.

“The way your ride,” Frank coughed, “you won’t last another week. Let’s get back to the wires. I like to remove the plastic insulation on lugs and run shrink wrap right onto connectors, for a clean, stronger lead, and damnit, use the correct connectors. Blue for 14 and 16-gauge wires and red for 18 and 20. And make sure to use the proper ring sizes for stud connections, like the battery, circuit breakers and brake switch studs. Floppy lugs make for lousy connections.”

I was beginning to lose it. We could go on all night about wiring. He muttered something about using rubber grommets with wires that must run through sheet metal and additional ground straps from the headlight to the frame to maintain a solid ground to the front end.

“Don’t forget the final show bike detail,” He said and I remembered all the rats bikes I built in the ’70s with wires running everywhere. “Run wires down the left side of the bike. The hot looking side is always the pipe side.”

“Okay goddamnit,” I said. “I’m not writing a book. Just a handful of hints.” I sensed a lecture coming from a guy who edited bike magazines for 30 years.

“Do it right, Snake,” He coughed lighting another Marlboro, “or don’t do it at all!”

“Thank you, sir,” I said and hung up. Fuckin’ guy is worse than Bandit.

 

Click to order Catalog!

BRAND NEW CUSTOM CHROME CATALOG RELEASED–

Custom Chrome’s new offering for 2004. The California based distributor brings you the most comprehensive product offering in the Harley-Davidson aftermarket! At over 1,200 pages and over 22,000 part numbers, their 2004 Catalog features the new RevTech 110 Motor, Hard Core II, Ares bikekits and noumious frames and forks–everything from nuts & bolts to performance products. It’s the Custom Bike Bible for the year.

ONLY $9.95 + 6.95 Shipping**

Baker Extreme Kicker install.

This is one of those shop quiet times installations. You want to make sure all the stars are aligned for this one. Stroll outside the shop with an icy Corona and look to the heavens for inspiration. Sturgis was looming and since this bike was all about vintage I needed a kicker system. I've installed the Muller system from Germany. I've wrestled with a custom chrome 5-Speed kicker transmission into my 1956 Shovel, a very rare motorcycle, so I'm not without some experience. But Baker took the kicker development to a new stronger level, which involved removal of the entire gear set, replacing the trap door and more. I never held an entire gear set in my nervous hands, like a man holding his newborn baby.

Having an inexperienced wrench write a tech tip has it's ups and downs. He could fuck up everything, but on the other hand he'll write about it, so you won't make the same bullshit mistakes. I know first hand that if you've performed the same task a dozen times, the details become second nature and usually are not documented properly. There's my Zen notion for the day, oh humble gods of Baker Drivetrains.

On top of Sturgis pressure, and the unknown Galaxy of emotions, my Epson Camera was acting up. It's been the best for shop techs, beyond Canon or Nikon, but that's another story. I'll scramble my thoughts between data from the Baker team of experts.

First, here's a list of the applications available for this modification:

• 1990-2006 Softails™, FLT/FLH™, and FXR™ models
• 1991-2005 Dyna™ Models
• BAKER DD5 complete and builder’s kits.

The complete Baker instructions.

IMPOTANT NOTES TO BE CONSIDERED

• BAKER Factor 5 Kicker will not clear most stock exhaust systems due to the extended length of the transmission door and kicker. Most true duels usually fit FLT/FLH models. Rear pipes that route away from the right side of the transmission usually fit.

• The kicker arm will not clear the stock right side passenger floor board on FLT/FLH models. Installation of foot pegs or smaller footboards are required.

• Twin Cam models require installation of a cam-based ignition. See BAKER 2008-2009 Supplement for ignition alternatives or consult a BAKER sales tech.

• Fuel injected models require retrofit to carburetor.

Every service manual and parts manual contain slightly different photographs and info. Sometime that variety saves the day.

GETTING STARTED The BAKER Factory 5 Kicker kit is designed to be easily installed by any competent mechanic or dealership technician. Having your H-D factory service manual is required for this installation as it is referred to in many sections of the instructions. While this kit is made to be as easy as possible to install there is no substitution for experience. To install the F5K kit, disassembly of the transmission down to the gearset is required. We recommend reading through these instructions, to the end, before proceeding with installation process.

The Spyke starter had to be removed to get started.

TOOLS, RESOURCES, REQUIRED PARTS

• Factory Service Manual For Your Motorcycle
• Factory Parts Manual For Your Motorcycle
• Common American sockets and open end wrenches
• ToolB-56, BAKER Inner Race Service Kit or H-D equivalent
• Hydraulic Press
• In-lbs Torque Wrench
• Brake Bleeder Pump (for hydraulic type)

One of the first things to go was the stock tranny front.

NOTES: HYDRAULIC VERSION ONLY

To complete the Installation of the hydraulic F5K, the following parts will have to be procured to complete the job:

• Hydraulic Fluid, BAKER Recommends: H-D Dot 5 Brake Fluid, PN 99902-77
• Correct length AN -3 Brake Line
• 10mm Banjo Fitting & washers for both ends of brake line
• 3/8”-24 Banjo Bolt for the side cover end of the brake line
• 11/16” Diameter Bore Hydraulic Clutch Lever Assembly or H-D

Removing the nyloc jam nuts with an impact driver.

GEARSET REMOVAL

To remove your existing gearset, refer to your Factory Service Manual in section 7, Mainshaft/Countershaft removal. Follow the trap door/gearset removal procedure. Hint: with the stock side cover off, remove the nyloc jam nuts from the ends of the shafts BEFORE the trap door/gearset assembly is drawn out of the transmission case. A ½” impact gun works really keen for this task. Leave the main drive gear in the case.

Here's that shifting fork axle. Baker supplies another one with their kit. Note the hole in the trap door. No hole in the Baker unit. Don't forget the shaft during assembly like I did.

Here are the shifting forks in place. I pulled them out carefully and put them back on the shaft in the same order, so I wouldn't fuck it up.

Here's the famous 5-1 Baker drum to give me neutral on the bottom for ease in finding neutral for my tank-shifting operation.

The top needed to be removed from the tranny, then the shifting drum (4 Allen bolts). With the front of the transmission removed some shifting fork shafts will slip out through the trap door in the front. Sometimes the sprocket or pulley can be removed and there's an Allen plug under the sprocket, in case the drap door doesn't have a hole in it.

When my humbleself slipped this puppy back together, I forgot the shift fork axle, and there was no hole in the trap door. I was forced to backdoor the shaft. I was going to replace the JIMS ¼-inch offset 24-tooth sprocket with a ½-inch offset sprocket anyway, so this was cool.

The gearset slips out like a dream, but they failed to mention that once you stand it up one gear will slip off and scare the shit outta you, as it rolls under your bench.

Here's the gear that ran for the door.

Fourth gear and the shifting cog remain in the case. Don't panic.

DISASSEMBLING GEARSET

Once the trap door/gearset assembly is out of the transmission case, put it on a soft towel on a clean bench. If that pesky right ‘C’ dowel is stuck in the door, remove it by tapping it through with a hammer and a punch or pulling it through with a pair of vise grips. This will allow the gasket side of the door to sit flat on the support beam of the hydraulic press.

I was alone in the shop, so I slipped the nuts back on the shafts for a few threads, so the shafts wouldn't pop free and fall to the dusty shop deck.

With the gearset facing down and the gasket side of the door of the support beam of the hydraulic press, press the end of the mainshaft down 1/8” and then do the same to the countershaft. Alternate pressing on the ends of both shafts (1/8” at a time) until the shafts fall out.

Here's the shafts loose, but still setting comfortably in the trap door.

IT IS VERY HANDY TO HAVE A SECOND PERSON CATCHING THE SHAFTS AS THEY FALL OUT.

Here's the conical thrust washer removed from the mainshaft. Nothin' to it. Just don't forget.

As you can see the kicker ratchet will take up the space the washer once occupied.

Do not allow the shafts to fall and hit the ground. Remove the conical thrust washer on the mainshaft as the ratchet hub (PN 308-5) will replace this part during the re-assembly process. Keep the stock conical thrust washer (the one without the step on the back side) on the counter shaft. Put the ‘prepared’ gear clusters on the soft towel on the bench.

Here's the conical washer with the step in place on the countershaft.

Pressing the mainshaft into the new Baker kicker trap door. I was very careful about this operation and still question as to whether the shaft was pressed in all the way. Tough to see.

BEARING DOOR ASSEMBLY

1.) Remove the Factory 5 Kicker bearing door (PN 1-5SK(P,R,B)) assembly from the package. Clean your mainshaft and countershaft threads with lacquer thinner and dry them completely before pressing the shafts into the door.

Now take your mainshaft assembly and support it vertically in the press with the clutch end of the mainshaft at the facing down. Insure that the cage bearing is still on the cluster with first gear around it. Now take your Factory 5 Kicker bearing door (PN 1-5SK(P,R,B)) assembly and press the mainshaft into the ratchet hub (PN 308-5) while using the ratchet hub (PN 308-5) as your press point (figure 2).

This shows the shaft pressed into place in the ratchet kicker gear.

Make sure your mainshaft is perfectly vertical before pressing it in, damage to threads could incur if not vertical. Remove assembly from press. Apply thread ‘Red’ thread lock to the mainshaft retainer nut (PN RV-7050) and torque to 45-55 ft/lbs.

This shot shows angling the countershaft to mesh with the main shaft gears for assembly. 2.) Take the countershaft assembly with the threads facing up. Make sure the thick washer is still in place and place in the press supported vertically. Now take the Factory 5 Kicker bearing door (PN 1-5SK(P,R,B)) assembly and place it on to the countershaft. You will have to angle it on to get the gears to line up properly.

Pressing the countershaft into its bearing in the trap door. Again, I was uncertain about hitting bottom, because the fit was extremely tight. I spoke to Scott Lerg, the master Baker designer, and he told me the nyloc nuts would pull the shafts into final position.

Once the mainshaft is parallel with the countershaft place the countershaft press tool on to the countershaft bearing in the assembly (see picture). Slowly press the countershaft into the bearing door making sure all the gears spin freely. Once the countershaft is seated, clean the threads with lacquer thinner and blow dry completely. Apply ‘Red’ thread lock to the countershaft retainer nut and torque to 45-55 ft/lbs. Your bearing door assembly is complete

GEARSET INSTALLATION

1.) Refer to your Factory Service Manual for proper gearset installation.

2.) You will need to use the supplied fork rod (PN 122-56K) for installation.

3.) Replace the bearing door assembly with the supplied gasket (PN 35652-79B).

4.) Once the gearset is in the transmission case. Use the four supplied 5/16-18 x 1-1/4 SHCS (PN 73496) and 5/16 washers (PN 6100) in the lower four holes of the bearing door. Using ‘Blue’ thread lock, torque the bolts to 13-16 ft/lbs. Install the four supplied.

Don't forget to center the shifting cog over the drum pins for accurate shifting.

¼-20 x 1-1/4 SHCS (PN 73463) and ¼ washers (PN 609SS) in the upper four holes of the bearing door. Using ‘Blue’ thread lock, torque the bolts to 7-9 ft/lbs (84-108 in/lbs)

Here's the adjustment cam for the shifting cog above. Just loosen the nut and rotate the Allen for centering.

5.) Install your top cover per your Factory Service Manual using the supplied top cover gasket (PN 34904-86C)

Baker trap door in place.

CABLE TYPE KICKER COVER INSTALLATION: PN 578-56M(P,B,R)-K Refer to your Factory Service Manual to remove your clutch cable from your side cover ball and ramp assembly.

1.) Place the side cover gasket on the two 10mm dowels (PN 16583-00) on the bearing door assembly.

This plate slipped right on, but there's a trick. I slipped the rachet spring onto the gear, laying on the bench and over the lip. Then the unit slipped on without a problem.

2.) While making sure the ratchet gear (PN 310-56K) is still retained by the kicker crank gear (PN 33350-56), place the side cover on to the two 10mm dowels (PN 16583-00). While holding the cover in place take the nine supplied 5/16-18 x 1 ¼ SHCS (PN 73496) with 5/16washers (PN 6100) and apply ‘blue’ thread lock to the threads. Now torque the fasteners to 13-16 ft/lbs (156-192 in/lbs).

Here's the ball ramp cover removed.

3.) Remove the six fasteners holding the ball and ramp cover on. Remove the ball and ramp cover and gasket at this time as well.

Clutch throw-out rod and bearing.

4.) Install the supplied clutch throw out rod (PN 125-5R) at this time through the pinion gear quill (PN 585-5)

I threaded the clutch cable into place, no problem.

5.) Thread your clutch cable into the side cover. Loosen the clutch cable adjustment all the way so there is maximum cable exposed in the side cover.

I greased the balls, so I wouldn't lose them during this testing phase.

6.) With the cable fully extended in the side cover take the supplied ball and ramp assembly and slide it over the cable. Install the clutch cable ferrule

Here's the ball ramp assembly. (PN 3094-DSSC) and ‘seat’ the cable. 7.) Install the ball and ramp assembly with outer ramps ‘tab’ in the 2 ‘o’clock position. 8.) Now place the ball and ramp cover plate with gasket back into position.

Here's my torque wrench. I don't trust them. With the size of that arm, it's super easy to over torque a ¼-20 fastener, as I did. It will haunt me until I repair it.

9.) Using ‘Blue’ thread lock, install the six bolts. Torque the four ¼-20 x ¾ (PN 25C50KLHS) to 7-9 ft/lbs (84-108 in/lbs). Torque the two #10-24 x 5/8 (PN 10C50KLHS) to 4-5 ft/lbs (54-60 in/lbs).

The Baker kit comes with a special-made 24-ounce bottle of Spectro Gear Oil. No mistakes or over-filling.

KICK ARM INSTALLATION

1) Install the kick arm on to the kicker crank gear shaft.

2) Tighten the pinch bolt on the kicker crank gear shaft so that there is no sloppy movement in the kicker arm assembly.

3) Either with your hand or leg, ‘kick’ the kick arm and run it through its motion to make sure everything is working properly.

Even the kicker arm is cast stainless with a solid bronze kicker pedal, with a rough texture finish, designed to be kicked.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

1.) Install your primary and adjust your clutch per your Factory Service Manual at this time.

2.) With the bike vertical fill your transmission with the supplied 23oz. bottle of Spectro™ 75W140.

3.) Follow your Factory Service Manual to finish assembly on your motorcycle.

4.) Your BAKER Factory 5 Kicker installation is complete

For any installation or service questions, please contact our BAKER technical department toll free 1-877-640-2004.

Hang on for the next installment. Final assembly will begin with a BDL primary install, a Spyke alternator/regulator system, and we're getting ready to ride.

You'll see George's pinstriping, Tony's powder coating workmanship and my sloppy wiring.

–Bandit

We'll let the Girls of Bikernet from the 2010 Calendar judge this tech.