This was actually one of the easiest bikes I’ve ever wired. It’s not a bad notion to sketch out a wiring diagram with consideration for the placement of the components. Think about it long and hard, then take your time. Below this mess I ran the Hardcore Choppers basic wiring diagram and tips on wiring anything.

First, there’s the regulator that bolts over the front motormount. I use Compu-Fire regulators for reliability and they are wired not to over-work the alternator. So you plug the regulator into the case for the alternator connection, run a ground strap under the frame where the rubbermount bolts and the final hot wire to the hot side of the battery, or the hot side of the ignition switch. That wire feeds the charge back to the battery. Presto, goddamnit, the charging system is complete.

I’m lazy and want the wiring system to be as easy and component free as possible. No extra lights, no turn signals, no horns, buzzers or ringdings. I use Bob McKay’s marine ignition switches for toughness, reliability and ease of wiring. They are distributed by CCI or, if not in stock, contact Bob directly (519-935-2424).

The switch is so complete so you don’t need a starter relay. All it takes is one wire to the starter, one wire from the battery and one wire to the circuit breaker. From the breaker a wire runs to the Compu-Fire single fire ignition system via the coils, one wire to the brake switch, one wire to the taillight and one wire to the highbeam switch. From the highbeam switch two wires ran to the headlight. From the Compu-Fire electronic ignition wires ran to the two Dyna Coils, front and rear and one hot wire that runs to both and the ignition circuit breaker. I ran only one 30-amp H-D circuit breaker, just a couple of inches from the ignition switch.

Since I don’t have space for idiot lights (there’s a highbeam indicator on the headlight), I need to run a oil pressure gauge on the engine.

I only use Terry Components brake cables for their service and flexibility. The trick was to find and place the ground straps. The Terry ground strap ran comfortably from the negative side of the battery to the 5/16 starter mounting bolt. That grounded it to the driveline, but I needed a ground from the tranny to the frame. I worked that out by bolting another strap to the sidemount license plate frame bracket (welded to the frame), by making sure the paint was shaved away. I also used the 1/4-20 Allen to support the taillight ground strap. Let’s see, have I forgotten anything?

Just before we completed wiring, Giggie, from Compu-Fire, and delivered the new Compu-Fire 53700 hot starter designed to fit any big twin H-D from’90 up. All the special hardware is included and it’s rated to 2KW and was actually shorter by .150-inch for clearance dilemmas with Softail oil cans.

The starter roller bearings are 30 percent longer and it comes with shims to allow builders to install the starter perfectly. The Air gap between the pinion gear from the starter to the ring gear on the clutch basket needs to be between .75 and .125. If it’s too short the pinion gear can’t spin before engagement and collides with the ring gear. It needs to get a tad of momentum going. On the other hand, if the distance is too great, the starter gets up to full speed and fights engagement.

The measurement is difficult and Giggie uses a 1/8 Allen which is .125 across the flats. The shims are .026. Even the coupler on this new Compu-Fire starter is designed for lowered bike, to duck the belt.

The wiring was completed and we were ready to fire the beast, but first Giggie recommended that we burp the bubbles out of the engine by removing the pump relief cap and using an Allen to pull up the valve and let bubbles pass for a pure oil lubrication.

The bastard fired right up, the Mikuni gushed gas, but as soon as it fired the Mikuni float bowl settled down.

We often get calls for basic wiring diagrams. Here’s one that was taken from an old Easyriders and expanded by the wizards of Hard Core Chopper Magazine in Japan.

Take your time. Keep those copper strands away from sharp edges, moving stuff (like chains) and hot items. Cover everything with shrink wrap. Use extra layers of shrink wrap for more protection and stronger connections. I like to solder connections for a solid, vibration free contact, but some prefer crimping connections to avoid wicking. Watch out. Some of the littlest, coolest switches go to shit in a week under 100 mph vibration.

The Frank Kaisler, patent pending, wire junction tool. Send $99.99 to P.O. Box 666, Hollywood, Calif. Send only rolls of quarters.

Don’t forget to work in circuit breakers and fuses. If one blows, disconnect the battery and research the problem. I like Terry battery cables for their flexibility, and they allow more amps to flow to the starter because of their low resistance.

Couple more tips: Watch out, wiring around the front-end. That sucker needs to turn. Don’t run the electrical connections too tight. If you run wires through the frame, debur the openings and use extra shrink wrap to protect fragile insulation.

Bandit generally uses 16-gauge for most of the wiring, 18-gauge in the bars and 12-gauge from the battery to the ignition switch.

I called Frank Kaisler, a tech writer for decades, and before I finished reading the above he shouted across the line, “Yeah right, but you’re forgetting plenty, dipshit. Don’t forget to tell ’em about the breakers. Use a 30-amp breaker between the battery and the main electrical circuit (or the battery and the ignition switch). You can use one of the breaker lugs to attach the regulator hot line to minimize wires to the battery. Use 12 gauge wire for the main leads. Use a 15 or 20-amp breaker between the ignition switch and all the lighting connections.

“Goddamnit, you didn’t explain wicking. Solder creeps under the insulation when it flows. The wire will flex against that soldered area and may break.”

“Yeah right, after two hundred years,” I muttered

“Shut up and listen,” Frank lit another cigarette.

“Quit smoking,” I babbled over the phone.

“The way your ride,” Frank coughed, “you won’t last another week. Let’s get back to the wires. I like to remove the plastic insulation on lugs and run shrink wrap right onto connectors, for a clean, stronger lead, and damnit, use the correct connectors. Blue for 14 and 16-gauge wires and red for 18 and 20. And make sure to use the proper ring sizes for stud connections, like the battery, circuit breakers and brake switch studs. Floppy lugs make for lousy connections.”

I was beginning to lose it. We could go on all night about wiring. He muttered something about using rubber grommets with wires that must run through sheet metal and additional ground straps from the headlight to the frame to maintain a solid ground to the front end.

“Don’t forget the final show bike detail,” He said and I remembered all the rats bikes I built in the ’70s with wires running everywhere. “Run wires down the left side of the bike. The hot looking side is always the pipe side.”

“Okay goddamnit,” I said. “I’m not writing a book. Just a handful of hints.” I sensed a lecture coming from a guy who edited bike magazines for 30 years.

“Do it right, Snake,” He coughed lighting another Marlboro, “or don’t do it at all!”

“Thank you, sir,” I said and hung up. Fuckin’ guy is worse than Bandit.

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We’re getting right down to the bottom line. Harold Ponteralli, our painter called, “If I deliver the paint can you make it to the show.” I assembled bikes overnight for run deadlines in the past, so we went for it. We installed the new sheet metal, ran the oil lines and picked up a few chrome knick knacks from Long Beach Chrome. Frank was on his way to the Bikernet headquarters with a brown bag full of Goodridge hydraulic fitting. The heat was on.

I installed the exhaust while Frank custom cut lines to fit each application perfectly. You can see how the man does it in our King tech articles using Goodridge lines, fittings and shrink wrap. For throttle cables we relied on Barnett for custom cut-to-fit lines.

We replaced the Rev Tech 6-speed, cable tranny cover with a Joker Machine clean, chromed billet, hydraulic clutch. Why did we go hydraulic? Hell I don’t know, maybe to balance the Joker controls on the bars? The cover slid right on and we torqued it to specs (15-20 ft. lbs.).

While I wrenched Frank ran a line from the Joker front brake mastercylinder to the Custom Chrome Billet-6 brake caliber. Crazy John took the calipers to a shop to have them milled smooth then engine turned for an added detail. Whatta ya tink?

Then Frank ran a hydraulic line from the H-D rear brake master cylinder (stuffed under the tranny) to the brake switch bolted to the tranny case, through a series of Goodridge fittings. Finally another line was constructed from the brake pressure switch to the rear brake caliper. We kept in mind that the wheel will be adjusted for belt tension and will flex up and down with the swingarm. There needed to be slack in the line.

Finally Frank carefully made a line that ran from the Joker handlebar controls to the Joker hydraulic tranny front. He immediately started bleeding the brake systems and they fell right in line. We watched the direction air bubbles might travel. Generally front brakes can be bled several ways. Some pump the fluid in from the caliper bleeder nipple forcing bubbles north out of the control reservoir. Sometimes, as soon as it’s filled, it’s cooked. No bleeding is necessary.

Sometimes I fill the reservoir and pump it slightly until the Dot 5 runs down the line and fills the caliper. This can take awhile, but as it sets the bubbles rise to the top and out the reservoir until it’s cooked again. We were lucky. The rear brake caliper was installed above the master cylinder and the bubbles blasted to the surface with little bleeding. Our Giggie (from Compu-Fire) designed, mid-brake lever worked like a champ with the sharp Custom Chrome pivoting pegs.

As a side note I coated the pipes with rattle-can barbecue heat flat black. What the hell, if they don’t work, I’ll mess with them again. Oh, and I tried to find a place to stash a H-D rear brake reservoir but couldn’t. I held my breath and entered a Yamaha shop and ordered a small sport bike unit. We made a bracket and stashed it under the tranny.

Building custom bikes is all about options, abilities, resources and a handful of rules. Check the John Covington Safety Code in Special Reports. He makes some good points. There’s also various considerations between rubbermounted bikes and rigids. For instance we designed the rear fender to hug the tire, but it moves with the swingarm which means the sonuvabitch better be strong. Also there needs to be considerable space between the seat and the rear fender for shock travel.

On top of style is ride consideration. I like to build bikes that will hang for a cross country run, handle slick roads and corner without dragging pipes or pegs. And it better corner. That’s what bikes are all about. Alright, I got off the tech. Kyle, the shop intern, installed the Custom Chrome petcock and gas line to the carb. He cut the line and inserted a gas filter (check the arrows for flow direction).

We loaded up the Cyril Huze oil tank with RevTech 10-50 Oil and looked for the UPS man. We waited patiently for the Le Pera styled/Bikernet seat to return to the fold stitched with emerald threads. Harold Ponteralli painted the sheet metal and want to see it in the Easyriders Pomona show. We didn’t make it. Then he jammed us about making the Pomona Roadster Show and we busted our buts. I did a couple of midnight runs installing the Custom Chrome stainless plates under the rear axle and polishing stainless fasteners. The gloss black powder arrived right on time from Dallas. The chrome sparkled and Custom Chrome delivered parts when we needed them.

If the seat had rolled in the door, we would have wired the bastard into the wee hours and drug the scoot to the show, but nooo. Cross-eyed, we pulled the 1928 Shovel out of the headquarters, also painted by H-D Performance in Vacaville, California, detailed it and delivered it to Pomona. It was essentially built by Strokers Dallas, and sonuvabitch if they weren’t at the show with a half a dozen Stroker bikes. They took Best of Show and the Shovel took third place in the classic category. Whatta week.

At this point we need final shifter linkage, which Frank fabricated, so we could install the BDL primary drive. Then some wire and we can fire this puppy. Hang on.

Moving right along, I overcame the Wilmington Mung and slipped back into the shop. It’s like self-induced Christmas for the homebuilder each week when UPS arrives or I score something at the bike swap meet. Ya plan, save small bags of gold and reach out to vendors to make deals, then wait.

I got all pumped when the bronze risers drifted in from DPPB in Europe, and I immediately tackled the mounting and handlebars. I hit two hardware stores looking for the proper length hardened studs and the second score was doubtful, but I rolled the dice and bought them anyway. As it turned out, 3-inch ½-inch studs with coarse threads on one end and fine on the other worked perfectly.

I tested the fitment by wrapping masking tape around the fine end 3/8-inch up from the bottom. I screwed them into the narrow Paughco leg, and then installed the riser components to see if I had enough length to reach the top bronze nut. I had plenty of threads, so I move the tape to 5/8 inches of securing fine threads and installed all the components. It all fit like a dream.

Then I went to work searching the shop for a set of bars that would give me the look and be reasonably comfortable. I’m shooting for that 5-Ball Factory Racer look, but a bike comfortable enough to ride to Sturgis. That’s always the acid test, and the road-test adventure. I found a set of sorta TT 1-inch bars sans the dimples, since I was going to turn them upside down. I mounted them to the risers, and then determined that I could cut almost three inches out of the center.

I searched the shop for a chunk of mild steel rod that would make the perfect alignment, strengthening slug for the bars. I removed the burrs from the split tubing and marked the slug center. I tapped it into place, strapped the bars down, so they were perfectly aligned, and MIG-welded them. Just having the bars and risers in place was a rush.

I finally muscled enough cash to have all my welding tanks filled. I took the opportunity to have one tank filled with pure Argon for welding stainless or aluminum. I’ve never welded aluminum, so I broke out my welding book and read the appropriate chapter. I needed twice the gas pressure and almost twice the rod speed and power.

Let me back up for a second. The project was mounting the Crime Scene Rapide headlight. It was a bolt-on procedure, except for the simple aluminum-mounting bung. Once in place, it was impossible to remove the headlight-mounting fastener. I reviewed my options. The fastener would actually touch the top Paughco springs. I looked for an option and found one, but it required welding the existing square bung to the fine-threaded round spacer. I tapped the spacer for clean threads, and then proceeded to weld the two together.

This was a trick. Aluminum must be extremely clean before welding. And since this piece was very small, it could heat up and melt like butter before one pass was completed. I also had some problems with the welder. Since aluminum heats and expands faster that steel, I needed to bore out the tip or run a larger welding tip. The tips come in various sizes, and natch, I didn’t have a slightly larger tip. So Jeremiah grabbed a micrometer and all my tiny drill bits, and started to study the sizes and attempted to drill the tips out. Interesting procedure. We broke bits and jammed them into the bronze MIG welding tips. Finally we succeeded in boring out a tip and the welding moved along.

Then I took to grinding, filing, and rewelding until this headlight bracket was completed. Not bad. I need Jeremiah, the master shaper, to return and give it his final touch.

Next, I had a plan to use as many vintage H-D parts as possible. I snatched a stock 1936-1957 mechanical brake pedal and mounting plate, which also acted as the front peg or footboard mount. Paughco already made a bracket that bolts under the front motor mount. It makes the stock mounting bosses available for these components.

This effort placed me eyeball-to-eyeball with a couple of challenges. I needed to make the old mechanical brake pedal operate a hidden hydraulic master cylinder and somehow I had to create a mounting bracket for the rear of the footboard.

There was one more element rearing its ugly head at this point, but yet we turned it into an opportunity. There was no fifth stud mounting plate on the frame, so I started to tinker with a chunk of angle iron. Then I discovered a complete ’98 Dyna rear brake set-up with linkage and the master cylinder. Suddenly, lots of answers were available using the fifth stud-mounting placement.

I had to stop dead in my tracks right there. I needed to make sure the transmission was aligned properly for the whole system to work. The brown Santa arrived with a new BDL Softail, 2-inch enclosed belt drive system I’d ordered just a couple of days ago. I pulled out the inner primary, loosened all the mounting bolts for the engine and trans and started my historic alignment procedure. First, I bolted down the rear of the engine and looked for any gaps at the front motor mount. It had a .020 gap. I found a shim and slipped it into place.

Next, I attached the BDL inner primary and pulled the JIMS tranny into alignment with the Crazy Horse V-Plus engine. Then I started on the fifth tranny stud-mounting bracket. I planned to run a kicker, and since this power plant is 100 inches strong, the additional mounting element will strengthen the entire driveline.

No, this system didn’t fall into place. I had oil lines to contend with and the brake pedal and master cylinder didn’t align. At first, I had a grand plan to bend the linkage rod into a jog-over to reach the tab I had welded onto the brake pedal pivot tube. That would have created more problems, specifically with the rear footboard mounting. I needed to straighten it out and machine a 2-inch offset link from the pedal over, which kept the entire system in alignment. The critical aspect will be my tab welding. There will be considerable strain on that puppy, but I think it will work.

Then I ran a ½-inch rod off the top of the pedal bracket and machined a spacer that would catch an original classic footboard-mounting arm. I’m trying to tack-weld everything so I can make final adjustments or catch mistakes before it’s too late. I like welding and sometimes can’t stop myself. I tack my handiwork, step back, eyeball it, check it twice and weld the shit outta it. The next morning I discover something I forgot and I’m fucked.

Since I was into footboards, I moved onto the left one. With the help of Sin Wu on her knees, we checked the angle of my 2003 Road King footboards and attempted to match that angle on the 5-Ball Factory Racer. Again, I used a stock mounting plate with foot clutch pedals. I’m going to make the racer a tank shift, so I bolted up the mounting plate and a vintage kicker arm and bracket, but I needed to drill and tap the Paughco bracket for the lower left 5/16 kickstand mount.

I tried to handle a few moves at once and failed. I broke off the tape in the kickstand mounting hole and I’m still pondering my options. I shifted back to floorboard mounting. I was burnin’ daylight trying to remove the tap. I mounted the front of the footboard and snugged it down at the Sin Wu estimated floorboard angle, then pondered how to mount the rear to the BDL outer primary.

I had to insert the BDL mounting studs into the inner primary with red Loctite first, then the aluminum stud arms, and finally the cool, clean outer primary cover. This turned out to be a breeze. I took a vintage footboard mount, cut it off, and welded it to a Bandit-made bracket. It had to carry my weight, so I added a strengthening gusset to the bottom and believed I was good to go.

In the next segment, we will start to tackle the shift linkage system. Duane Ballard’s wife, Lisa, a contributor for the Cycle Source magazine, delivered this vintage tractor seat assembly for us to test and you’ll see our wacky test next issue. We might also start to tackle mounting the Paughco/U.S. Choppers tanks, Phil’s Shop wiring system and the Biker’s Choice Speedometer, which we hope to mount in the tradition of rear-wheel driven speedometers of the ’20s.

It’s all headed your way in the next couple of weeks.

Shrunken FXR mid-controls by Giggie at Compu-Fire. Note: we need flat-headed Allens.

Giggie our master machinist from Compu-Fire rolled up to the Bikernet Headquarters last Saturday. We haven’t seen him for months due in part to his work on new starting systems for the custom market. They are dancing through the final development stages of a system configured to drive off the crank shaft of the motor with a 60- to-one ratio compared to stock 48-to-1. That will leave the area about the tranny available for custom applications or lower seat heights.

Giggie brought some wrong fasteners but lots of them and counter-sunk drilling tool.

Currently Compu-fire is soon to release a standard starting system, the Gen-2 HT, with 33 percent stronger magnets, 6-roller longer clutch (32 percent longer) with 30 percent more cranking while drawing the same amps from the battery.

Here’s the tranny without the brake pedal components. There’s some tight tolerances going on.

I spoke to him about our cooling debate and here are some of his thoughts. “You want your oil to run at a minimum temp of 205 to eliminate water vapor or condensation that accumulates in oil,” Giggie said. “At 240 to 260 degrees petroleum based oils begin to break down, although synthetic lubricants could be good to 360 degrees. I have my doubts.”

Base bracket to be bolted to the transmission.

Giggie developed an oil cooler for his FLH that kicks on at 220 degrees and off at 200. It has an in-line thermal switch continuously reading oil temp. He installed his cooler in a box with vents and two small electric fans wired to the thermal switch (to cool while idling).

Giggie’s mounting bracket bolted in place.

Regarding our project Giggie dropped off hand machined mid-controls for shifting and rear brakes. Next, we must buy a H-D slave cylinder with remote reservoir with a built in brake switch. We will hide the reservoir behind the oil bag and design a bracket to hold the slave under the trans.

This shows the pedal and shaft in the mounting bracket.

Giggie will supply us with four more bushings to run behind the shift and brake levers, two 1/8-inch thick and two 1/2-inch thick, to allow us variable spacing away from the engine pulley or point cover on the cone.

Giggie will supply two different bushing to be installed between the brake lever and the mounting sleeve. We’ll need the space to clear the point cover.

Unfortunately the sleeve hit the oil pump cover. We may be able to remove enough material or just polish the pump. The oil pump inlet fitting will also need to be turned down. It’s close.

With the bushings in hand we can develop our final linkage behind the BDL belt drive plate and Giggie’s tranny plate to connect with the slave piston.

In both cases we need to cut and machine the other end of the shaft, depending on the linkage.

I’ve decided to remanufacture the exhaust system which is now a tight fit around the new brake linkage. Giggie also machined the foot peg mounts to accept any standard, pivoting foot pegs.

The slick new mid controls for shifting slid through bushings machined into the BDL outter and inner covers.

Next we need the bushings, slave cylinder and a day in the garage hammering and welding a new set of pipes.

–Bandit

Back To Part 10, Page 2

 Back to Mudflap_Girl_Part_1_the_Concept

So we’ve collected a handful of mudflap girl products from Billy Lane, at Choppers Inc. , 2-wheelers in Denver, Sturgis and Daytona and Nick from New York City Choppers. Then we needed a fitting bike project, and one surfaced. Seems a Bikernet babe grew up in the San Pedro projects with eight brothers and sisters. The oldest one, and most supportive, hardest working, was Brad Olsen, a longshoreman crane operator in the LA Harbor.

Those kids grew up on the tough side of the harbor and Brad took the brunt of the hard life, became a fighter and family member defender. He worked the ports, went to school, became a tugboat captain and ultimately, a crane mechanic. For eight years he trained under Richard Bustillo, who worked with Bruce Lee, and Brad became a master and owner of his own dojo, Harbor Kick-Boxing in San Pedro.

Brad fought for his brothers and sisters, and then worked with inner-city kids to build their self-defense abilities and self esteem. Brad has owned a 1961 Panhead for 25 years and keeps it pristine. It’s his baby, but his kicking knee is damaged and he needs a long-distance touring bike with an electric starter. That’s where the mudflap girl came into play.

The project started with a salvaged 1998 Dyna Glide basket, which we tore apart. We sent the engine to Harley-Davidson for a re-man effort with the help of Fullerton, California H-D. The transmission was rough and we wanted a 6-speed for those long Mudflap Girl highways. I had a JIMS 6-speed, which I returned to the JIMS factory. We switched and twisted the Dyna Glide 5-speed transmission into a JIMS FXR, 6-speed and a Softail 5-Speed for another project (my 1915 5-Ball Factory Racer).

I’m not a big Dyna, fan so we dug out my last Quantum, Kenny Boyce styled Pro Street FXR frame and went to work finding parts. I bought a used Arlen Ness FXR swingarm from LA Chop Rods and dug out a wide Custom Chrome inverted front end with turn signals built in. The overall design element called for building a tough and reliable touring motorcycle for Brad.

Another key element for the overall package was the bags we ordered from Redneck Engineering. Once we had a set of Renegade Wheels like we used on the Assalt Weapan, mounted to new Cobra Avon Tires we were ready to begin the mock-up stage.

Of course, I used Doherty Machine wheel spacers to center the wheels and had to machine a stock axle to fit the Custom Chrome wide glide.

Handling is an issue with any rubber-mounted bike and we pressed in Custom Cycle Engineering swingarm bushings to tighten the ride. Plus I’m still trying to work with a tougher swingarm axle from www.Glide-Pro.com.

I spoke to a couple of builders about installing the driveline in a FXR frame and some bolt the engine and trans together, then lay them on their sides. They slip the frame over the top and install the swingarm, swingarm axle, rubber-mount biscuits and transmission to the frame. Unfortunately, I don’t care for that system. It’s against the Code of the West to lay a Harley engine on its side on the ground. Bad mojo.

We mounted the front end and front wheel to the frame, then put a jack under the frame. Then we mounted the swingarm and transmission together in the frame with the axle. Next we installed the Renegade wheel. I moved the jack. with a chunk of wood to lift the transmission until it was level.

Then came the Quantum front motor mount, which was offset. We may replace it with a stock touring mount. Here’s what Rogue had to say about it:

No, they are not specific to the frames you have. They can be used with anyrubber-mount FXR frame to offset the engine 3/8ths of an inch to the left.We originally used them with the frames Kenny Boyce made for Quantum.

Looking back over some old paperwork it appears you got two blackpowder-coated Quantum frames that were made for Quantum by Kenny Boyce.

These frames were used with the front offset mounts and had the transmissiontail shaft modified by removing 3/8ths of an inch from the left side and useda spacer of the same size on the right. This moved the engine andtransmission equally to the left.

My notes say you also got a bare Quantum frame made for them by Kraftech. The mounts were usually used when using a fat tire on the rear.I had a bunch of them and figured you could use them for something. You donot have to use them!

I was confused by the offset, so it’s always a smart notion to check with someone who knows. Rogue worked for Quantum back in the day. We will eliminate the offset front motormount plate as we roll forward.

With the trans jacked level and the front rubber pad mounted loose with the front engine plate, mentioned above, snugged to the biscuit with a ½-inch bolt, we dropped the engine into place, like we would in a rigid or Softail frame.

Next, we’ll replace that front motormount, shave off the existing tank mounts, start to mount a Custom Chrome gas tank and rear fender and prepare Redneck Engineering bag mounting brackets.

Above is a bike built by Don Hotop for his wife using Redneck Engineering bags. The fiberglass bags are designed, and come with mounting rails for Softails. We will need to cut the bags for Progressive Suspension shocks and build very sturdy basketry.

Click here for: Mudflap Girl Part 2, the Bandit Engine and Spitfire update 

Hang on. This is the last of the scintillating segments on building the Sturgis Shovel before I write the treacherous saga of the ride. Somewhere we will publish a feature on the bike in a mag and on the site. Oh, there’s one other tech that will come to pass—hard line assembly. I’m waiting for a CD of images from John Gilbert of Bike Works mag.

So let’s get started. I was burnin’ daylight before the Sturgis run. I saved a ton of cash going with all powder and no additional chrome or polishing. It cost me just $325 to powder all my components for lasting protection.

Throughout this article I will point out my mistakes, so you can avoid them. I did an 80 percent decent job of mocking up the bike prior to powder. That meant that 20 percent had to be dealt with after the finish was applied. Bad news. The only thing I didn’t think through or make brackets for was the ignition switch and circuit breaker brackets. That may seem minor, but wasn’t as you will discover. On the other hand it wasn’t a big deal. You be the judge. Actually, if we wired, fired and rode the bike before final teardown, it would answer all the questions. But few builders take it that far.

I was jazzed to toss the Paughco Frame on the lift covered with pads. Foremost Powder had plugged all the threaded holes and tapped off the neck bearing surfaces. They did a helluva job. I shaved motor and transmission mounts for a proper ground and installed the S&S modified 93-inch engine and JIMS trans. Then I could install the Paughco Springer without a balancing act.

The Springer is easy to install, but takes care. I greased the bearings, slid on the dust shields and ran the whole springer through the neck. Keep in mind that installing the bearing races in the neck is not complete until the bike has been down the road. Any paint, dust or uneven race angle will mean that the bearings will seat further once on the road. Ride it for a week then lift the front end off the ground and jiggle the wheel by the axle. If there’s any movement or dangerous slop, take the bars and top tree off once more and tighten the stem nut until there’s just a hair of drag. Long front ends are more critical because of the leverage against the neck.

I didn’t bolt down the engine and trans hard, just the tranny plate which ultimately I had to loosen. The engine needs to be completely at ease for the BDL belt alignment so I just spun some stainless bolts into place. Then I installed the front wheel with Doherty spacers, the Brembo brake caliber and centered the wheel. Keep in mind that Brembo supplied the bracket, which is designed to replace a stock, late-model Harley springer brake system. I didn’t have the proper spacer, but a Harley shop had one and I was good to go.

Then I installed the Brembo Caliper. They supplied me with a series of shims. I used feeler gauges to determine centering the caliper over the rotor and stacked the shims until it was set. This is an interesting bumbling, experienced manner for writing articles. I have the insight of riding experience behind images of the bike yet complete. Ultimately we removed the front fender.

I build the front fender, single sided bracket after Kent’s, from Lucky Devils Metal Works in Houston, caliper mounted fender mounts, which work perfectly. My problem was the initial position of the caliper, too far forward. So I mounted it on the heim joint rod which didn’t work. When the bike went over a bump the front lip of the fender rode up with the caliper and the rear lip rode down with the springer touching the tire. It had to go. So I rode to Sturgis without a front fender ducking rainstorms all the way.

Next I installed the rear fender. Keep in mind that the rear fender, the oil tank and the rear wheel fight for the same spaces. They almost need to go together simultaneously, especially the oil bag and rear fender. Everything slipped into place with nyloc nuts, stainless Allens and red Loctite.

At the time I ran stock gearing with the JIMS 6-speed, until I discovered that I was faced with running a kicker. I didn’t change the rear wheel gearing from the 51-tooth, but I should have. This evening I’ll install a Custom Chrome flat (Sportster styled) 48-tooth sprocket and hope to knock the revs down seriously.

I also mounted the rear Brembo brakes and centered the caliper over the Brembo rotor. No problem. Even my Softail styled anchor bracket worked perfectly welded to the frame and tucked the caliper between the frame rails.

While I’m messing with brakes I’ll cover brake and clutch lines and cables. Instead of making up lines I ordered RevTech pre-assembled lines from Custom Chrome plus all the fittings washers and fasteners. Keep in mind that the front brake master cylinder uses larger master cylinder banjo bolts. They come in 10mm and 12mm. Watch out, and don’t hesitate to order a couple of extra bangos bent at different angles to make sure you’ll have what you need.

I measured my lines and clutch cable lengths a number of times then added an inch for safety. That’s where making your own lines can be helpful. Keep in mind that the front end will turn (clutch cable) and depress (front brake). You’ll need some slack. Plus you might change the angle of your handlebar levers, which will impact the position of the cables and lines. I used Tephlon tape on most fittings although some builders don’t recommend it. Since most of this stuff is chromed, I like the extra sealant.

I use only DOT 5 brake fluid in my bikes, ‘cause I can splash the shit all over the place without concern for paint damage. In many instances you can fill the master cylinder and rock, just by waiting for the bubbles to rise. Another key is to find the right pump can and fill the lines, caliper and master cylinder from the bottom up. Use a new pumper or a pump that’s dedicated to brake fluid only and attach it to your brake bleeder on the front wheel. Most of the time that works like a charm.

I’ve found that most front brakes will basically bleed themselves. Fill the master cylinder on the bars and pump it slowly allowing the bubbles to rise. Let it set overnight and most of the bubbles will rise just by pumping it with short strokes at the lever and watching the bubbles jump to the surface.

In this case I discovered that some air was trapped in the caliper, so I pulled it off the bike, taped a file (the same width of the Brembo rotor) and turned the caliper so the air could escape through the bleeder nipple. I bleed it a couple of times then returned the caliper to its rightful position. She was good to go.

The rear brake wasn’t so easy because the air couldn’t rise to the master cylinder. I bleed it from the front and the rear, and I think it still has air in the lines although the Brembo brakes worked fine. I received a lot of compliments and comments on the brakes, which I found strange. Brembo has a terrific reputation, but not on Harleys. Riders were surprised to find Brembos on a Chopper.

Now for the clutch cable. First I was confused about which cable style to order. I hope to put together an article on it in the near future. I picked the most common late model Evo cable and measured the length several times. Here’s the key. If you’re not replacing a stock cable you have no notion of the length. I pulled a stock cable and measured it, but I didn’t know what model it came from. I went by the length of my stock cable and found the 1990-1999 Fatboy cable length. Then I measured the extension due to the Paughco Frame, CCE risers and CCI bars. Much guess work. If I had all the bucks in the world I would have bought three cables lengths.

The end cap cable is the reason Baker, JIMS and RevTech transmissions come with a fresh gasket and a quart of transmission oil. They know that you’ll be forced to pull the end cap to install the cable in the ball driven throw-out bearing mechanism. It’s simple but cumbersome. Don’t loose the balls. You’ll need a massive C-clamp removal tool to pop that sucker free. Carefully lift the inner ramp and remove the cable coupling, attach the cable, which you have already screwed into the trans face cover. Return the coupling to the inner ramp by watching the puzzle face. Then put the ramp back in place and the retaining ring and bolt the face cover back into place. Don’t forget to add at least 20 ounces of Trans fluid. It will hold 24 ounces dry.

I learned something on this trip. If water gets in the trans it will act up, shift strangely. Drain the fluid and change it. Check your vent.

I ran the cable several ways to find the path that fit best, didn’t rub the frame or catch on anything. I used one Arlen Ness cable clamp to secure it and hooked the cable into the greased tephlon bushing in the Joker Machine handlebar control, then replaced the small C-clamp and I was ready for final clutch cable adjustment after the BDL primer was installed.

I’m going to cover the 300 BDL installation here and try to explain my shift. My plan was to run the Compu-Fire engine based electric starter system designed by Giggie before he left and took a job at Rivera. Rivera is making inner primary plates for this new system, but when I contacted them Ben Kudon’s response was hesitant. They weren’t ready. Of course I contacted our long-time sponsor BDL and initially they weren’t scheduled to make units, then I was pleased to find out they were, so I ordered one. But Sturgis crept into the picture, and suddenly I was without a starting system and coils hanging under the oil bag interfering with any new starter install.

I had a 300 BDL belt system and a starter but no place to put it. Kent from Lucky Devil shrugged his shoulders and said, “Why don’t you run a kicker?”

Sinwu ripped off her top, jiggled her tits and said, “You have one from Muller in Germany.

I jammed down the headquarter stairs to the shop and tore open the box. I was jazzed. This is one of the coolest kicker systems to come along. It cleared the rear exhaust pipe and the kicker arm was stylish, unique and strong. I couldn’t believe my luck.

The JIMS 6-speed lined up with the BDL inner primary like a dream. All I needed was to pull the tranny face and press off the trap door, then replace the trap door and tranny cover with the Muller system. Muller even shipped a clutch ramp system that afforded smoother clutch action.

Hell, I’d even build a cool brass plug to cover the speedo-cable hole in the side of the JIMS trap door.

All went well until I removed the JIMS trap door to discover the 6-speed protruding gears. The door was machined to accept the gears and the 5-speed door was not. I was stuck. I contacted Muller in Germany for a 6-speed replacement door. No answer. I called JIMS and ordered the kicker they distribute for the 6-speed. It never arrived, so I called Custom Chrome. If I could order a 5-speed quick, I could use the Muller system. They responded and in three days I had a Rev Tech Replacement complete with kicker and 23-tooth chain sprocket. I yanked the 6-speed and began to install the Rev Tech 5-speed in 4-speed case with a five-year or 50,000 mile warranty.

At this point I should have replaced the rear 51-tooth sprocket with a 48 or perhaps a 46, but we’ll see. I removed the kicker cover and installed the clutch cable once more, sealed the tranny and filled it with 24 ounces of fluid.

I pulled the massive, left-handed, mainshaft sprocket nut with a JIMS special tool and flopped it around backwards to afford me the clearance I needed for the RevTech chain to pass the 180 Avon tire. I locked it down with the JIMS tool and an Allen setscrew and red Loctite. She was good to go.

Next, I needed to set up the BDL 300 belt drive system and the Compu-Fire Charging system. I slipped in the Stator, then the small tapered washer, followed by the Compu-Fire Rotor. It’s pasted right on the rotor not to smack it with any hammers. You might knock one of the magnets loose.

According to the rules sometimes the offset pulley mount doesn’t need the massive flat washer/spacer for proper alignment. But the first move includes installing the inner primary with the engine and tranny loose. I used never-cease on the threads of the transmission and tranny Allens to prevent damage to the threads. Take it back—first I had to remove the inner primary studs from the transmission. They were tight as hell and I used Yield and heat to set them free. Then I positioned the engine and the Trans with the primary.

I ran into problems. Nothing wanted to line up. I called a couple of buddies for guidance. I held the engine where it was with a shim under the front motor mount. Then I bolted the primary to the engine and trans. The front of the tranny raised almost .100. I started looking for shims. Bob from BDL told me the code was to shim the tranny plate and not the tranny, so I went to work. It wasn’t a problem to scour around for the right thickness washers. Soon the transmission was aligned, the primary fit easily and there was no drag on the transmission mainshaft.

Next, I needed to check the pulley alignment. I installed the pulley using the insert then the pulley and Allens. Since I would be removing and replacing the parts, I didn’t drive the alignment pins into the insert from the rear just yet. I discovered another glitch. I needed some washers or shims behind the engine pulley for alignment. I also discovered that the mainshaft nut wasn’t bottoming out, so the rotor flopped around. That wasn’t right.

I’ve installed a dozen BDL systems without major alignment problems. It takes patience, but once it’s correct, she will last and last. This is a tapered shaft transmission and once it’s installed it doesn’t slip off without a JIMS transmission hub puller tool.

With the pulley and the clutch in place you can test alignment a couple of ways. I used a cast T-Bar across the faces of the pulleys. They need to be exact, which means shims behind the engine pulley.

I made a mad dash to Walkers Machine and bought all the goddamn shims he had. The massive washer that comes with the rotor was only .035 too large. The next item was the inset in the engine shaft nut. I had to machine it to slip over the protruding shaft. This is also an area that takes some running and retesting to make sure it doesn’t seat and settle in, out of alignment. It’s easy to spot a problem. You’ll notice rubber dust around the pulley where it’s riding against the lip.

Remember that the clutch nut is also left-handed. Then the clutch slips into place and with some tugs and working the belt gently, it goes on. If not use two chunks of wood a large bolt and a socket to gently push the pulleys apart. Once it’s run for a while it will be much easier to remove and replace.

Okay, so I installed the tank, with the Spyke petcock and stripped the spigot threads. It hung for most of the ride. We’ll cover the tank more in the ride saga, so hold on. The seat was also a challenge. I slipped off, so I changed the seat, to one with a lip, then changed it back an added taller springs. That worked.

With the primary aligned I still used never-cease on the primary threads because I knew that I would remove the inner primary once more.

Hang on for this one. I needed to find a place for a toggle switch/ignition switch. I also had this massive aluminum starter motor boss on the inner primary that was going to waste. So I drilled out the starter shaft and installed a marine ignition switch. I glued it in place with a two stage epoxy then drowned it with liquid electrical tape, two coats. It seemed perfect except that the key sang in the wind only 1 inch above the peeling primary belt. No key rings or dice.

On the inside of the primary I made a brass strap that ran from one starter mounting hole to the other, holding two circuit breakers. One was a 15 amp for the lights and a 30 amp for the ignition. This became a very tight electrical area, dangerously close to the whirling CCI O-ring chain. As it turned out the circuit breakers were a hair or two from the coils. Cozy. I made a couple of wires long enough so that I could remove the primary and set it next to the bike to work on wiring issues.

The next thing I knew, under initial testing, the whipping chain chipped at the aluminum, dangerously close to the electrical. Larry Settle, of Settle MC Works loaned me a chunk of tephlon, which I carved and made a buffer, which worked perfectly to protect the chain from nearing hot wires.

Then came the Eye Candy Custom Cycles ’59 Cadillac taillight. They also make an old Ford style light, which I prefer, but I felt the need for side visibility, especially on the right. The mounting called for the primary once more to hold the taillight/brake light. Finding the proper location was a chore. It either rode too close to the chain or the mounting called for screws through the frame or into the wiring loom. I monkeyed with it for hours and finally designed a tough mounting system that might survive. All went well, but the frame rail still blocks the light and I might move it outbound.

I ran the thin sparkplug wires through the frame in shrink tubing, wired the coil and the Joker machine brake switch and headlight through the hole in the frame too close to the fork stop. Even on a simple chopper an idiot can find his way into trouble.

Finally I mounted the stylish Aeromach mirror on the left bar only. It came with all the hardware needed and never gave me a problem. I know I’m missing a link or two, maybe a necessary credit. Don’t hesitate to drop me a line if you need a question answered. You can reach me daily at Your Shots or drop a line to Bandit@Bikernet.com.

Over the next couple of days I will attempt to complete the first saga of the ride to Sturgis. I hope to launch it on Friday. In it I will dig into the problems I encountered, mistakes I made and how I fixed them. Hang On. But beyond the glitches, actually the wiring worked out fine, but I should wire in a kill switch. The bike rode well, comfortable for a rigid, started without major hassle and ran all the way to Deadwood. I can’t complain.

This is one of those shop quiet times installations. You want to make sure all the stars are aligned for this one. Stroll outside the shop with an icy Corona and look to the heavens for inspiration. Sturgis was looming and since this bike was all about vintage I needed a kicker system. I've installed the Muller system from Germany. I've wrestled with a custom chrome 5-Speed kicker transmission into my 1956 Shovel, a very rare motorcycle, so I'm not without some experience. But Baker took the kicker development to a new stronger level, which involved removal of the entire gear set, replacing the trap door and more. I never held an entire gear set in my nervous hands, like a man holding his newborn baby.

Having an inexperienced wrench write a tech tip has it's ups and downs. He could fuck up everything, but on the other hand he'll write about it, so you won't make the same bullshit mistakes. I know first hand that if you've performed the same task a dozen times, the details become second nature and usually are not documented properly. There's my Zen notion for the day, oh humble gods of Baker Drivetrains.

On top of Sturgis pressure, and the unknown Galaxy of emotions, my Epson Camera was acting up. It's been the best for shop techs, beyond Canon or Nikon, but that's another story. I'll scramble my thoughts between data from the Baker team of experts.

First, here's a list of the applications available for this modification:

• 1990-2006 Softails™, FLT/FLH™, and FXR™ models
• 1991-2005 Dyna™ Models
• BAKER DD5 complete and builder’s kits.

IMPOTANT NOTES TO BE CONSIDERED

• BAKER Factor 5 Kicker will not clear most stock exhaust systems due to the extended length of the transmission door and kicker. Most true duels usually fit FLT/FLH models. Rear pipes that route away from the right side of the transmission usually fit.

• The kicker arm will not clear the stock right side passenger floor board on FLT/FLH models. Installation of foot pegs or smaller footboards are required.

• Twin Cam models require installation of a cam-based ignition. See BAKER 2008-2009 Supplement for ignition alternatives or consult a BAKER sales tech.

• Fuel injected models require retrofit to carburetor.

GETTING STARTED The BAKER Factory 5 Kicker kit is designed to be easily installed by any competent mechanic or dealership technician. Having your H-D factory service manual is required for this installation as it is referred to in many sections of the instructions. While this kit is made to be as easy as possible to install there is no substitution for experience. To install the F5K kit, disassembly of the transmission down to the gearset is required. We recommend reading through these instructions, to the end, before proceeding with installation process.

TOOLS, RESOURCES, REQUIRED PARTS

• Factory Service Manual For Your Motorcycle
• Factory Parts Manual For Your Motorcycle
• Common American sockets and open end wrenches
• ToolB-56, BAKER Inner Race Service Kit or H-D equivalent
• Hydraulic Press
• In-lbs Torque Wrench
• Brake Bleeder Pump (for hydraulic type)

NOTES: HYDRAULIC VERSION ONLY

To complete the Installation of the hydraulic F5K, the following parts will have to be procured to complete the job:

• Hydraulic Fluid, BAKER Recommends: H-D Dot 5 Brake Fluid, PN 99902-77
• Correct length AN -3 Brake Line
• 10mm Banjo Fitting & washers for both ends of brake line
• 3/8”-24 Banjo Bolt for the side cover end of the brake line
• 11/16” Diameter Bore Hydraulic Clutch Lever Assembly or H-D

GEARSET REMOVAL

To remove your existing gearset, refer to your Factory Service Manual in section 7, Mainshaft/Countershaft removal. Follow the trap door/gearset removal procedure. Hint: with the stock side cover off, remove the nyloc jam nuts from the ends of the shafts BEFORE the trap door/gearset assembly is drawn out of the transmission case. A ½” impact gun works really keen for this task. Leave the main drive gear in the case.

The top needed to be removed from the tranny, then the shifting drum (4 Allen bolts). With the front of the transmission removed some shifting fork shafts will slip out through the trap door in the front. Sometimes the sprocket or pulley can be removed and there's an Allen plug under the sprocket, in case the drap door doesn't have a hole in it.

DISASSEMBLING GEARSET

Once the trap door/gearset assembly is out of the transmission case, put it on a soft towel on a clean bench. If that pesky right ‘C’ dowel is stuck in the door, remove it by tapping it through with a hammer and a punch or pulling it through with a pair of vise grips. This will allow the gasket side of the door to sit flat on the support beam of the hydraulic press.

With the gearset facing down and the gasket side of the door of the support beam of the hydraulic press, press the end of the mainshaft down 1/8” and then do the same to the countershaft. Alternate pressing on the ends of both shafts (1/8” at a time) until the shafts fall out.

IT IS VERY HANDY TO HAVE A SECOND PERSON CATCHING THE SHAFTS AS THEY FALL OUT.

Do not allow the shafts to fall and hit the ground. Remove the conical thrust washer on the mainshaft as the ratchet hub (PN 308-5) will replace this part during the re-assembly process. Keep the stock conical thrust washer (the one without the step on the back side) on the counter shaft. Put the ‘prepared’ gear clusters on the soft towel on the bench.

Here's the conical washer with the step in place on the countershaft.

Pressing the mainshaft into the new Baker kicker trap door. I was very careful about this operation and still question as to whether the shaft was pressed in all the way. Tough to see.

BEARING DOOR ASSEMBLY

1.) Remove the Factory 5 Kicker bearing door (PN 1-5SK(P,R,B)) assembly from the package. Clean your mainshaft and countershaft threads with lacquer thinner and dry them completely before pressing the shafts into the door.

Now take your mainshaft assembly and support it vertically in the press with the clutch end of the mainshaft at the facing down. Insure that the cage bearing is still on the cluster with first gear around it. Now take your Factory 5 Kicker bearing door (PN 1-5SK(P,R,B)) assembly and press the mainshaft into the ratchet hub (PN 308-5) while using the ratchet hub (PN 308-5) as your press point (figure 2).

This shows the shaft pressed into place in the ratchet kicker gear.

Make sure your mainshaft is perfectly vertical before pressing it in, damage to threads could incur if not vertical. Remove assembly from press. Apply thread ‘Red’ thread lock to the mainshaft retainer nut (PN RV-7050) and torque to 45-55 ft/lbs.

This shot shows angling the countershaft to mesh with the main shaft gears for assembly. 2.) Take the countershaft assembly with the threads facing up. Make sure the thick washer is still in place and place in the press supported vertically. Now take the Factory 5 Kicker bearing door (PN 1-5SK(P,R,B)) assembly and place it on to the countershaft. You will have to angle it on to get the gears to line up properly.

Pressing the countershaft into its bearing in the trap door. Again, I was uncertain about hitting bottom, because the fit was extremely tight. I spoke to Scott Lerg, the master Baker designer, and he told me the nyloc nuts would pull the shafts into final position.

Once the mainshaft is parallel with the countershaft place the countershaft press tool on to the countershaft bearing in the assembly (see picture). Slowly press the countershaft into the bearing door making sure all the gears spin freely. Once the countershaft is seated, clean the threads with lacquer thinner and blow dry completely. Apply ‘Red’ thread lock to the countershaft retainer nut and torque to 45-55 ft/lbs. Your bearing door assembly is complete

GEARSET INSTALLATION

1.) Refer to your Factory Service Manual for proper gearset installation.

2.) You will need to use the supplied fork rod (PN 122-56K) for installation.

3.) Replace the bearing door assembly with the supplied gasket (PN 35652-79B).

4.) Once the gearset is in the transmission case. Use the four supplied 5/16-18 x 1-1/4 SHCS (PN 73496) and 5/16 washers (PN 6100) in the lower four holes of the bearing door. Using ‘Blue’ thread lock, torque the bolts to 13-16 ft/lbs. Install the four supplied.

Don't forget to center the shifting cog over the drum pins for accurate shifting.

¼-20 x 1-1/4 SHCS (PN 73463) and ¼ washers (PN 609SS) in the upper four holes of the bearing door. Using ‘Blue’ thread lock, torque the bolts to 7-9 ft/lbs (84-108 in/lbs)

Here's the adjustment cam for the shifting cog above. Just loosen the nut and rotate the Allen for centering.

5.) Install your top cover per your Factory Service Manual using the supplied top cover gasket (PN 34904-86C)

Baker trap door in place.

CABLE TYPE KICKER COVER INSTALLATION: PN 578-56M(P,B,R)-K Refer to your Factory Service Manual to remove your clutch cable from your side cover ball and ramp assembly.

1.) Place the side cover gasket on the two 10mm dowels (PN 16583-00) on the bearing door assembly.

This plate slipped right on, but there's a trick. I slipped the rachet spring onto the gear, laying on the bench and over the lip. Then the unit slipped on without a problem.

2.) While making sure the ratchet gear (PN 310-56K) is still retained by the kicker crank gear (PN 33350-56), place the side cover on to the two 10mm dowels (PN 16583-00). While holding the cover in place take the nine supplied 5/16-18 x 1 ¼ SHCS (PN 73496) with 5/16washers (PN 6100) and apply ‘blue’ thread lock to the threads. Now torque the fasteners to 13-16 ft/lbs (156-192 in/lbs).

Here's the ball ramp cover removed.

3.) Remove the six fasteners holding the ball and ramp cover on. Remove the ball and ramp cover and gasket at this time as well.

Clutch throw-out rod and bearing.

4.) Install the supplied clutch throw out rod (PN 125-5R) at this time through the pinion gear quill (PN 585-5)

I threaded the clutch cable into place, no problem.

5.) Thread your clutch cable into the side cover. Loosen the clutch cable adjustment all the way so there is maximum cable exposed in the side cover.

I greased the balls, so I wouldn't lose them during this testing phase.

6.) With the cable fully extended in the side cover take the supplied ball and ramp assembly and slide it over the cable. Install the clutch cable ferrule

Here's the ball ramp assembly. (PN 3094-DSSC) and ‘seat’ the cable. 7.) Install the ball and ramp assembly with outer ramps ‘tab’ in the 2 ‘o’clock position. 8.) Now place the ball and ramp cover plate with gasket back into position.

Here's my torque wrench. I don't trust them. With the size of that arm, it's super easy to over torque a ¼-20 fastener, as I did. It will haunt me until I repair it.

9.) Using ‘Blue’ thread lock, install the six bolts. Torque the four ¼-20 x ¾ (PN 25C50KLHS) to 7-9 ft/lbs (84-108 in/lbs). Torque the two #10-24 x 5/8 (PN 10C50KLHS) to 4-5 ft/lbs (54-60 in/lbs).

The Baker kit comes with a special-made 24-ounce bottle of Spectro Gear Oil. No mistakes or over-filling.

KICK ARM INSTALLATION

1) Install the kick arm on to the kicker crank gear shaft.

2) Tighten the pinch bolt on the kicker crank gear shaft so that there is no sloppy movement in the kicker arm assembly.

3) Either with your hand or leg, ‘kick’ the kick arm and run it through its motion to make sure everything is working properly.

Even the kicker arm is cast stainless with a solid bronze kicker pedal, with a rough texture finish, designed to be kicked.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

1.) Install your primary and adjust your clutch per your Factory Service Manual at this time.

2.) With the bike vertical fill your transmission with the supplied 23oz. bottle of Spectro™ 75W140.

3.) Follow your Factory Service Manual to finish assembly on your motorcycle.

4.) Your BAKER Factory 5 Kicker installation is complete

For any installation or service questions, please contact our BAKER technical department toll free 1-877-640-2004.

Hang on for the next installment. Final assembly will begin with a BDL primary install, a Spyke alternator/regulator system, and we're getting ready to ride.

You'll see George's pinstriping, Tony's powder coating workmanship and my sloppy wiring.

–Bandit

We'll let the Girls of Bikernet from the 2010 Calendar judge this tech.