We’re getting right down to the bottom line. Harold Ponteralli, our painter called, “If I deliver the paint can you make it to the show.” I assembled bikes overnight for run deadlines in the past, so we went for it. We installed the new sheet metal, ran the oil lines and picked up a few chrome knick knacks from Long Beach Chrome. Frank was on his way to the Bikernet headquarters with a brown bag full of Goodridge hydraulic fitting. The heat was on.

I installed the exhaust while Frank custom cut lines to fit each application perfectly. You can see how the man does it in our King tech articles using Goodridge lines, fittings and shrink wrap. For throttle cables we relied on Barnett for custom cut-to-fit lines.

We replaced the Rev Tech 6-speed, cable tranny cover with a Joker Machine clean, chromed billet, hydraulic clutch. Why did we go hydraulic? Hell I don’t know, maybe to balance the Joker controls on the bars? The cover slid right on and we torqued it to specs (15-20 ft. lbs.).

While I wrenched Frank ran a line from the Joker front brake mastercylinder to the Custom Chrome Billet-6 brake caliber. Crazy John took the calipers to a shop to have them milled smooth then engine turned for an added detail. Whatta ya tink?

Then Frank ran a hydraulic line from the H-D rear brake master cylinder (stuffed under the tranny) to the brake switch bolted to the tranny case, through a series of Goodridge fittings. Finally another line was constructed from the brake pressure switch to the rear brake caliper. We kept in mind that the wheel will be adjusted for belt tension and will flex up and down with the swingarm. There needed to be slack in the line.

Finally Frank carefully made a line that ran from the Joker handlebar controls to the Joker hydraulic tranny front. He immediately started bleeding the brake systems and they fell right in line. We watched the direction air bubbles might travel. Generally front brakes can be bled several ways. Some pump the fluid in from the caliper bleeder nipple forcing bubbles north out of the control reservoir. Sometimes, as soon as it’s filled, it’s cooked. No bleeding is necessary.

Sometimes I fill the reservoir and pump it slightly until the Dot 5 runs down the line and fills the caliper. This can take awhile, but as it sets the bubbles rise to the top and out the reservoir until it’s cooked again. We were lucky. The rear brake caliper was installed above the master cylinder and the bubbles blasted to the surface with little bleeding. Our Giggie (from Compu-Fire) designed, mid-brake lever worked like a champ with the sharp Custom Chrome pivoting pegs.

As a side note I coated the pipes with rattle-can barbecue heat flat black. What the hell, if they don’t work, I’ll mess with them again. Oh, and I tried to find a place to stash a H-D rear brake reservoir but couldn’t. I held my breath and entered a Yamaha shop and ordered a small sport bike unit. We made a bracket and stashed it under the tranny.

Building custom bikes is all about options, abilities, resources and a handful of rules. Check the John Covington Safety Code in Special Reports. He makes some good points. There’s also various considerations between rubbermounted bikes and rigids. For instance we designed the rear fender to hug the tire, but it moves with the swingarm which means the sonuvabitch better be strong. Also there needs to be considerable space between the seat and the rear fender for shock travel.

On top of style is ride consideration. I like to build bikes that will hang for a cross country run, handle slick roads and corner without dragging pipes or pegs. And it better corner. That’s what bikes are all about. Alright, I got off the tech. Kyle, the shop intern, installed the Custom Chrome petcock and gas line to the carb. He cut the line and inserted a gas filter (check the arrows for flow direction).

We loaded up the Cyril Huze oil tank with RevTech 10-50 Oil and looked for the UPS man. We waited patiently for the Le Pera styled/Bikernet seat to return to the fold stitched with emerald threads. Harold Ponteralli painted the sheet metal and want to see it in the Easyriders Pomona show. We didn’t make it. Then he jammed us about making the Pomona Roadster Show and we busted our buts. I did a couple of midnight runs installing the Custom Chrome stainless plates under the rear axle and polishing stainless fasteners. The gloss black powder arrived right on time from Dallas. The chrome sparkled and Custom Chrome delivered parts when we needed them.

If the seat had rolled in the door, we would have wired the bastard into the wee hours and drug the scoot to the show, but nooo. Cross-eyed, we pulled the 1928 Shovel out of the headquarters, also painted by H-D Performance in Vacaville, California, detailed it and delivered it to Pomona. It was essentially built by Strokers Dallas, and sonuvabitch if they weren’t at the show with a half a dozen Stroker bikes. They took Best of Show and the Shovel took third place in the classic category. Whatta week.

At this point we need final shifter linkage, which Frank fabricated, so we could install the BDL primary drive. Then some wire and we can fire this puppy. Hang on.

Moving right along, I overcame the Wilmington Mung and slipped back into the shop. It’s like self-induced Christmas for the homebuilder each week when UPS arrives or I score something at the bike swap meet. Ya plan, save small bags of gold and reach out to vendors to make deals, then wait.

I got all pumped when the bronze risers drifted in from DPPB in Europe, and I immediately tackled the mounting and handlebars. I hit two hardware stores looking for the proper length hardened studs and the second score was doubtful, but I rolled the dice and bought them anyway. As it turned out, 3-inch ½-inch studs with coarse threads on one end and fine on the other worked perfectly.

I tested the fitment by wrapping masking tape around the fine end 3/8-inch up from the bottom. I screwed them into the narrow Paughco leg, and then installed the riser components to see if I had enough length to reach the top bronze nut. I had plenty of threads, so I move the tape to 5/8 inches of securing fine threads and installed all the components. It all fit like a dream.

Then I went to work searching the shop for a set of bars that would give me the look and be reasonably comfortable. I’m shooting for that 5-Ball Factory Racer look, but a bike comfortable enough to ride to Sturgis. That’s always the acid test, and the road-test adventure. I found a set of sorta TT 1-inch bars sans the dimples, since I was going to turn them upside down. I mounted them to the risers, and then determined that I could cut almost three inches out of the center.

I searched the shop for a chunk of mild steel rod that would make the perfect alignment, strengthening slug for the bars. I removed the burrs from the split tubing and marked the slug center. I tapped it into place, strapped the bars down, so they were perfectly aligned, and MIG-welded them. Just having the bars and risers in place was a rush.

I finally muscled enough cash to have all my welding tanks filled. I took the opportunity to have one tank filled with pure Argon for welding stainless or aluminum. I’ve never welded aluminum, so I broke out my welding book and read the appropriate chapter. I needed twice the gas pressure and almost twice the rod speed and power.

Let me back up for a second. The project was mounting the Crime Scene Rapide headlight. It was a bolt-on procedure, except for the simple aluminum-mounting bung. Once in place, it was impossible to remove the headlight-mounting fastener. I reviewed my options. The fastener would actually touch the top Paughco springs. I looked for an option and found one, but it required welding the existing square bung to the fine-threaded round spacer. I tapped the spacer for clean threads, and then proceeded to weld the two together.

This was a trick. Aluminum must be extremely clean before welding. And since this piece was very small, it could heat up and melt like butter before one pass was completed. I also had some problems with the welder. Since aluminum heats and expands faster that steel, I needed to bore out the tip or run a larger welding tip. The tips come in various sizes, and natch, I didn’t have a slightly larger tip. So Jeremiah grabbed a micrometer and all my tiny drill bits, and started to study the sizes and attempted to drill the tips out. Interesting procedure. We broke bits and jammed them into the bronze MIG welding tips. Finally we succeeded in boring out a tip and the welding moved along.

Then I took to grinding, filing, and rewelding until this headlight bracket was completed. Not bad. I need Jeremiah, the master shaper, to return and give it his final touch.

Next, I had a plan to use as many vintage H-D parts as possible. I snatched a stock 1936-1957 mechanical brake pedal and mounting plate, which also acted as the front peg or footboard mount. Paughco already made a bracket that bolts under the front motor mount. It makes the stock mounting bosses available for these components.

This effort placed me eyeball-to-eyeball with a couple of challenges. I needed to make the old mechanical brake pedal operate a hidden hydraulic master cylinder and somehow I had to create a mounting bracket for the rear of the footboard.

There was one more element rearing its ugly head at this point, but yet we turned it into an opportunity. There was no fifth stud mounting plate on the frame, so I started to tinker with a chunk of angle iron. Then I discovered a complete ’98 Dyna rear brake set-up with linkage and the master cylinder. Suddenly, lots of answers were available using the fifth stud-mounting placement.

I had to stop dead in my tracks right there. I needed to make sure the transmission was aligned properly for the whole system to work. The brown Santa arrived with a new BDL Softail, 2-inch enclosed belt drive system I’d ordered just a couple of days ago. I pulled out the inner primary, loosened all the mounting bolts for the engine and trans and started my historic alignment procedure. First, I bolted down the rear of the engine and looked for any gaps at the front motor mount. It had a .020 gap. I found a shim and slipped it into place.

Next, I attached the BDL inner primary and pulled the JIMS tranny into alignment with the Crazy Horse V-Plus engine. Then I started on the fifth tranny stud-mounting bracket. I planned to run a kicker, and since this power plant is 100 inches strong, the additional mounting element will strengthen the entire driveline.

No, this system didn’t fall into place. I had oil lines to contend with and the brake pedal and master cylinder didn’t align. At first, I had a grand plan to bend the linkage rod into a jog-over to reach the tab I had welded onto the brake pedal pivot tube. That would have created more problems, specifically with the rear footboard mounting. I needed to straighten it out and machine a 2-inch offset link from the pedal over, which kept the entire system in alignment. The critical aspect will be my tab welding. There will be considerable strain on that puppy, but I think it will work.

Then I ran a ½-inch rod off the top of the pedal bracket and machined a spacer that would catch an original classic footboard-mounting arm. I’m trying to tack-weld everything so I can make final adjustments or catch mistakes before it’s too late. I like welding and sometimes can’t stop myself. I tack my handiwork, step back, eyeball it, check it twice and weld the shit outta it. The next morning I discover something I forgot and I’m fucked.

Since I was into footboards, I moved onto the left one. With the help of Sin Wu on her knees, we checked the angle of my 2003 Road King footboards and attempted to match that angle on the 5-Ball Factory Racer. Again, I used a stock mounting plate with foot clutch pedals. I’m going to make the racer a tank shift, so I bolted up the mounting plate and a vintage kicker arm and bracket, but I needed to drill and tap the Paughco bracket for the lower left 5/16 kickstand mount.

I tried to handle a few moves at once and failed. I broke off the tape in the kickstand mounting hole and I’m still pondering my options. I shifted back to floorboard mounting. I was burnin’ daylight trying to remove the tap. I mounted the front of the footboard and snugged it down at the Sin Wu estimated floorboard angle, then pondered how to mount the rear to the BDL outer primary.

I had to insert the BDL mounting studs into the inner primary with red Loctite first, then the aluminum stud arms, and finally the cool, clean outer primary cover. This turned out to be a breeze. I took a vintage footboard mount, cut it off, and welded it to a Bandit-made bracket. It had to carry my weight, so I added a strengthening gusset to the bottom and believed I was good to go.

In the next segment, we will start to tackle the shift linkage system. Duane Ballard’s wife, Lisa, a contributor for the Cycle Source magazine, delivered this vintage tractor seat assembly for us to test and you’ll see our wacky test next issue. We might also start to tackle mounting the Paughco/U.S. Choppers tanks, Phil’s Shop wiring system and the Biker’s Choice Speedometer, which we hope to mount in the tradition of rear-wheel driven speedometers of the ’20s.

It’s all headed your way in the next couple of weeks.

Hang on. This is the last of the scintillating segments on building the Sturgis Shovel before I write the treacherous saga of the ride. Somewhere we will publish a feature on the bike in a mag and on the site. Oh, there’s one other tech that will come to pass—hard line assembly. I’m waiting for a CD of images from John Gilbert of Bike Works mag.

So let’s get started. I was burnin’ daylight before the Sturgis run. I saved a ton of cash going with all powder and no additional chrome or polishing. It cost me just $325 to powder all my components for lasting protection.

Throughout this article I will point out my mistakes, so you can avoid them. I did an 80 percent decent job of mocking up the bike prior to powder. That meant that 20 percent had to be dealt with after the finish was applied. Bad news. The only thing I didn’t think through or make brackets for was the ignition switch and circuit breaker brackets. That may seem minor, but wasn’t as you will discover. On the other hand it wasn’t a big deal. You be the judge. Actually, if we wired, fired and rode the bike before final teardown, it would answer all the questions. But few builders take it that far.

I was jazzed to toss the Paughco Frame on the lift covered with pads. Foremost Powder had plugged all the threaded holes and tapped off the neck bearing surfaces. They did a helluva job. I shaved motor and transmission mounts for a proper ground and installed the S&S modified 93-inch engine and JIMS trans. Then I could install the Paughco Springer without a balancing act.

The Springer is easy to install, but takes care. I greased the bearings, slid on the dust shields and ran the whole springer through the neck. Keep in mind that installing the bearing races in the neck is not complete until the bike has been down the road. Any paint, dust or uneven race angle will mean that the bearings will seat further once on the road. Ride it for a week then lift the front end off the ground and jiggle the wheel by the axle. If there’s any movement or dangerous slop, take the bars and top tree off once more and tighten the stem nut until there’s just a hair of drag. Long front ends are more critical because of the leverage against the neck.

I didn’t bolt down the engine and trans hard, just the tranny plate which ultimately I had to loosen. The engine needs to be completely at ease for the BDL belt alignment so I just spun some stainless bolts into place. Then I installed the front wheel with Doherty spacers, the Brembo brake caliber and centered the wheel. Keep in mind that Brembo supplied the bracket, which is designed to replace a stock, late-model Harley springer brake system. I didn’t have the proper spacer, but a Harley shop had one and I was good to go.

Then I installed the Brembo Caliper. They supplied me with a series of shims. I used feeler gauges to determine centering the caliper over the rotor and stacked the shims until it was set. This is an interesting bumbling, experienced manner for writing articles. I have the insight of riding experience behind images of the bike yet complete. Ultimately we removed the front fender.

I build the front fender, single sided bracket after Kent’s, from Lucky Devils Metal Works in Houston, caliper mounted fender mounts, which work perfectly. My problem was the initial position of the caliper, too far forward. So I mounted it on the heim joint rod which didn’t work. When the bike went over a bump the front lip of the fender rode up with the caliper and the rear lip rode down with the springer touching the tire. It had to go. So I rode to Sturgis without a front fender ducking rainstorms all the way.

Next I installed the rear fender. Keep in mind that the rear fender, the oil tank and the rear wheel fight for the same spaces. They almost need to go together simultaneously, especially the oil bag and rear fender. Everything slipped into place with nyloc nuts, stainless Allens and red Loctite.

At the time I ran stock gearing with the JIMS 6-speed, until I discovered that I was faced with running a kicker. I didn’t change the rear wheel gearing from the 51-tooth, but I should have. This evening I’ll install a Custom Chrome flat (Sportster styled) 48-tooth sprocket and hope to knock the revs down seriously.

I also mounted the rear Brembo brakes and centered the caliper over the Brembo rotor. No problem. Even my Softail styled anchor bracket worked perfectly welded to the frame and tucked the caliper between the frame rails.

While I’m messing with brakes I’ll cover brake and clutch lines and cables. Instead of making up lines I ordered RevTech pre-assembled lines from Custom Chrome plus all the fittings washers and fasteners. Keep in mind that the front brake master cylinder uses larger master cylinder banjo bolts. They come in 10mm and 12mm. Watch out, and don’t hesitate to order a couple of extra bangos bent at different angles to make sure you’ll have what you need.

I measured my lines and clutch cable lengths a number of times then added an inch for safety. That’s where making your own lines can be helpful. Keep in mind that the front end will turn (clutch cable) and depress (front brake). You’ll need some slack. Plus you might change the angle of your handlebar levers, which will impact the position of the cables and lines. I used Tephlon tape on most fittings although some builders don’t recommend it. Since most of this stuff is chromed, I like the extra sealant.

I use only DOT 5 brake fluid in my bikes, ‘cause I can splash the shit all over the place without concern for paint damage. In many instances you can fill the master cylinder and rock, just by waiting for the bubbles to rise. Another key is to find the right pump can and fill the lines, caliper and master cylinder from the bottom up. Use a new pumper or a pump that’s dedicated to brake fluid only and attach it to your brake bleeder on the front wheel. Most of the time that works like a charm.

I’ve found that most front brakes will basically bleed themselves. Fill the master cylinder on the bars and pump it slowly allowing the bubbles to rise. Let it set overnight and most of the bubbles will rise just by pumping it with short strokes at the lever and watching the bubbles jump to the surface.

In this case I discovered that some air was trapped in the caliper, so I pulled it off the bike, taped a file (the same width of the Brembo rotor) and turned the caliper so the air could escape through the bleeder nipple. I bleed it a couple of times then returned the caliper to its rightful position. She was good to go.

The rear brake wasn’t so easy because the air couldn’t rise to the master cylinder. I bleed it from the front and the rear, and I think it still has air in the lines although the Brembo brakes worked fine. I received a lot of compliments and comments on the brakes, which I found strange. Brembo has a terrific reputation, but not on Harleys. Riders were surprised to find Brembos on a Chopper.

Now for the clutch cable. First I was confused about which cable style to order. I hope to put together an article on it in the near future. I picked the most common late model Evo cable and measured the length several times. Here’s the key. If you’re not replacing a stock cable you have no notion of the length. I pulled a stock cable and measured it, but I didn’t know what model it came from. I went by the length of my stock cable and found the 1990-1999 Fatboy cable length. Then I measured the extension due to the Paughco Frame, CCE risers and CCI bars. Much guess work. If I had all the bucks in the world I would have bought three cables lengths.

The end cap cable is the reason Baker, JIMS and RevTech transmissions come with a fresh gasket and a quart of transmission oil. They know that you’ll be forced to pull the end cap to install the cable in the ball driven throw-out bearing mechanism. It’s simple but cumbersome. Don’t loose the balls. You’ll need a massive C-clamp removal tool to pop that sucker free. Carefully lift the inner ramp and remove the cable coupling, attach the cable, which you have already screwed into the trans face cover. Return the coupling to the inner ramp by watching the puzzle face. Then put the ramp back in place and the retaining ring and bolt the face cover back into place. Don’t forget to add at least 20 ounces of Trans fluid. It will hold 24 ounces dry.

I learned something on this trip. If water gets in the trans it will act up, shift strangely. Drain the fluid and change it. Check your vent.

I ran the cable several ways to find the path that fit best, didn’t rub the frame or catch on anything. I used one Arlen Ness cable clamp to secure it and hooked the cable into the greased tephlon bushing in the Joker Machine handlebar control, then replaced the small C-clamp and I was ready for final clutch cable adjustment after the BDL primer was installed.

I’m going to cover the 300 BDL installation here and try to explain my shift. My plan was to run the Compu-Fire engine based electric starter system designed by Giggie before he left and took a job at Rivera. Rivera is making inner primary plates for this new system, but when I contacted them Ben Kudon’s response was hesitant. They weren’t ready. Of course I contacted our long-time sponsor BDL and initially they weren’t scheduled to make units, then I was pleased to find out they were, so I ordered one. But Sturgis crept into the picture, and suddenly I was without a starting system and coils hanging under the oil bag interfering with any new starter install.

I had a 300 BDL belt system and a starter but no place to put it. Kent from Lucky Devil shrugged his shoulders and said, “Why don’t you run a kicker?”

Sinwu ripped off her top, jiggled her tits and said, “You have one from Muller in Germany.

I jammed down the headquarter stairs to the shop and tore open the box. I was jazzed. This is one of the coolest kicker systems to come along. It cleared the rear exhaust pipe and the kicker arm was stylish, unique and strong. I couldn’t believe my luck.

The JIMS 6-speed lined up with the BDL inner primary like a dream. All I needed was to pull the tranny face and press off the trap door, then replace the trap door and tranny cover with the Muller system. Muller even shipped a clutch ramp system that afforded smoother clutch action.

Hell, I’d even build a cool brass plug to cover the speedo-cable hole in the side of the JIMS trap door.

All went well until I removed the JIMS trap door to discover the 6-speed protruding gears. The door was machined to accept the gears and the 5-speed door was not. I was stuck. I contacted Muller in Germany for a 6-speed replacement door. No answer. I called JIMS and ordered the kicker they distribute for the 6-speed. It never arrived, so I called Custom Chrome. If I could order a 5-speed quick, I could use the Muller system. They responded and in three days I had a Rev Tech Replacement complete with kicker and 23-tooth chain sprocket. I yanked the 6-speed and began to install the Rev Tech 5-speed in 4-speed case with a five-year or 50,000 mile warranty.

At this point I should have replaced the rear 51-tooth sprocket with a 48 or perhaps a 46, but we’ll see. I removed the kicker cover and installed the clutch cable once more, sealed the tranny and filled it with 24 ounces of fluid.

I pulled the massive, left-handed, mainshaft sprocket nut with a JIMS special tool and flopped it around backwards to afford me the clearance I needed for the RevTech chain to pass the 180 Avon tire. I locked it down with the JIMS tool and an Allen setscrew and red Loctite. She was good to go.

Next, I needed to set up the BDL 300 belt drive system and the Compu-Fire Charging system. I slipped in the Stator, then the small tapered washer, followed by the Compu-Fire Rotor. It’s pasted right on the rotor not to smack it with any hammers. You might knock one of the magnets loose.

According to the rules sometimes the offset pulley mount doesn’t need the massive flat washer/spacer for proper alignment. But the first move includes installing the inner primary with the engine and tranny loose. I used never-cease on the threads of the transmission and tranny Allens to prevent damage to the threads. Take it back—first I had to remove the inner primary studs from the transmission. They were tight as hell and I used Yield and heat to set them free. Then I positioned the engine and the Trans with the primary.

I ran into problems. Nothing wanted to line up. I called a couple of buddies for guidance. I held the engine where it was with a shim under the front motor mount. Then I bolted the primary to the engine and trans. The front of the tranny raised almost .100. I started looking for shims. Bob from BDL told me the code was to shim the tranny plate and not the tranny, so I went to work. It wasn’t a problem to scour around for the right thickness washers. Soon the transmission was aligned, the primary fit easily and there was no drag on the transmission mainshaft.

Next, I needed to check the pulley alignment. I installed the pulley using the insert then the pulley and Allens. Since I would be removing and replacing the parts, I didn’t drive the alignment pins into the insert from the rear just yet. I discovered another glitch. I needed some washers or shims behind the engine pulley for alignment. I also discovered that the mainshaft nut wasn’t bottoming out, so the rotor flopped around. That wasn’t right.

I’ve installed a dozen BDL systems without major alignment problems. It takes patience, but once it’s correct, she will last and last. This is a tapered shaft transmission and once it’s installed it doesn’t slip off without a JIMS transmission hub puller tool.

With the pulley and the clutch in place you can test alignment a couple of ways. I used a cast T-Bar across the faces of the pulleys. They need to be exact, which means shims behind the engine pulley.

I made a mad dash to Walkers Machine and bought all the goddamn shims he had. The massive washer that comes with the rotor was only .035 too large. The next item was the inset in the engine shaft nut. I had to machine it to slip over the protruding shaft. This is also an area that takes some running and retesting to make sure it doesn’t seat and settle in, out of alignment. It’s easy to spot a problem. You’ll notice rubber dust around the pulley where it’s riding against the lip.

Remember that the clutch nut is also left-handed. Then the clutch slips into place and with some tugs and working the belt gently, it goes on. If not use two chunks of wood a large bolt and a socket to gently push the pulleys apart. Once it’s run for a while it will be much easier to remove and replace.

Okay, so I installed the tank, with the Spyke petcock and stripped the spigot threads. It hung for most of the ride. We’ll cover the tank more in the ride saga, so hold on. The seat was also a challenge. I slipped off, so I changed the seat, to one with a lip, then changed it back an added taller springs. That worked.

With the primary aligned I still used never-cease on the primary threads because I knew that I would remove the inner primary once more.

Hang on for this one. I needed to find a place for a toggle switch/ignition switch. I also had this massive aluminum starter motor boss on the inner primary that was going to waste. So I drilled out the starter shaft and installed a marine ignition switch. I glued it in place with a two stage epoxy then drowned it with liquid electrical tape, two coats. It seemed perfect except that the key sang in the wind only 1 inch above the peeling primary belt. No key rings or dice.

On the inside of the primary I made a brass strap that ran from one starter mounting hole to the other, holding two circuit breakers. One was a 15 amp for the lights and a 30 amp for the ignition. This became a very tight electrical area, dangerously close to the whirling CCI O-ring chain. As it turned out the circuit breakers were a hair or two from the coils. Cozy. I made a couple of wires long enough so that I could remove the primary and set it next to the bike to work on wiring issues.

The next thing I knew, under initial testing, the whipping chain chipped at the aluminum, dangerously close to the electrical. Larry Settle, of Settle MC Works loaned me a chunk of tephlon, which I carved and made a buffer, which worked perfectly to protect the chain from nearing hot wires.

Then came the Eye Candy Custom Cycles ’59 Cadillac taillight. They also make an old Ford style light, which I prefer, but I felt the need for side visibility, especially on the right. The mounting called for the primary once more to hold the taillight/brake light. Finding the proper location was a chore. It either rode too close to the chain or the mounting called for screws through the frame or into the wiring loom. I monkeyed with it for hours and finally designed a tough mounting system that might survive. All went well, but the frame rail still blocks the light and I might move it outbound.

I ran the thin sparkplug wires through the frame in shrink tubing, wired the coil and the Joker machine brake switch and headlight through the hole in the frame too close to the fork stop. Even on a simple chopper an idiot can find his way into trouble.

Finally I mounted the stylish Aeromach mirror on the left bar only. It came with all the hardware needed and never gave me a problem. I know I’m missing a link or two, maybe a necessary credit. Don’t hesitate to drop me a line if you need a question answered. You can reach me daily at Your Shots or drop a line to Bandit@Bikernet.com.

Over the next couple of days I will attempt to complete the first saga of the ride to Sturgis. I hope to launch it on Friday. In it I will dig into the problems I encountered, mistakes I made and how I fixed them. Hang On. But beyond the glitches, actually the wiring worked out fine, but I should wire in a kill switch. The bike rode well, comfortable for a rigid, started without major hassle and ran all the way to Deadwood. I can’t complain.

This shows just a fragment of all the parts involved.

Hang on. Here comes a complete build of a custom CCI Goliath Bike Kit. We built this 100-inch Rev Tech monster in nine days. The bike was assembled to promote the Annual Beach Ride, at the Queen Mary in Long Beach, through the efforts of Custom Chrome, George Hayward and Bikernet.com. We assembled the bike in the Bikernet Headquarters for the children’s charity ride. It was also featured in three issues of American Rider, but this is the extended, unedited version with charts. Before we get started, I want to add an editorial note. If you read this and want to add something, don’t hesitate. We can change the text whenever we goddamn want. If we missed something, you have a special tool, a correction or want to point out what a bunch of baboons we are, don’t stop, send a Your Shot. Let’s hit it.

“What the hell,” Nuttboy mumble, “what did you volunteer me for?” He scratched his butt, with a 9/16 open end wrench, as we loaded box after box of components into the garage. If CCI could somehow ship the components without the retail packaging, they would save a fortune. We had a truck load of plastic peanuts, plastic bags and cardboard.

The Goliath is a complete 100 inch, Rev Tech powered Softail kit. It comes with every nut and bolt. “And a few extras,” Nuttboy chimed in distractedly. Also included was a Softail manual and a Softail Parts book. We also referred to the Tim Remus book, “How To Build A Kit Bike”, from Wolfgang Publications.

“The Remus book was the most help, but there were big gaps in information,” Nuttboy grumbled. “We often had to scan the photos in the book in a fleeting effort to figure out a procedure that wasn’t described.” Maybe this series of articles will help.

The entire bike was built in a garage using normal hand tools. A professional shop came in handy on only two occasions: Pressing the clutch together, tire/wheel assembly and balancing.

The frame, wheel rims, and miscellaneous parts were powder coated by Custom Powder Coating in Dallas (214) 638-6416 to match the hue used by Santini Paint (714) 891-8895, for the sheet metal.

Here’s the massive rear wheel. It was powder coated red on the rim, then clear powdered. Finally George, the Wild Brush, finished the edge with a wide stripe.

“Violent Red I’d call it,” wise-cracked Nuttboy, “it looks hot enough to fry your bratwurst.”

We made sure the tank was pressure tested and sealed at the painter’s. We organized the parts as best we could and once the powder coating was returned Nuttboy shaved off the paint and tape where the motor mounts and tranny mounts were located. Dallas handles frames for American Iron Horse, so they know what to mask, which saved time. Nuttboy started checking the surface around the neck and beating the cups into place with a brass hammer and a massive punch. They must be pressed in completely.

We tried to organize the parts. This was the electrical stack.

We cleaned the area around the cup area on the neck to make absolutely sure the cups would seat entirely. That’s critical. If the cup seats more while vibrating down the road the front end will loosen and add to crucial elements that could lead to a high speed wobble.

We used a 20-year-old Bikernet punch to drive the cups home. Make sure they’re aligned properly.

You can tell by the changing tapping sound that the cup is fully in place.

Note the markings to keep matched bearings and races together.

We separated the cups from the bearings but made sure to note which matched bearing fit in which cup, for the most precise fit. Nuttboy pounded the cups in place with a dab of grease to prevent jamming inside the neck.

Custom Powder Coating did a fine job of taping off the bearing and motormount areas, but each one needed the edges cleaned.

This emery bid worked wonders to clear away paint or soften the edges.

We used a bench polisher to clean the powdered edges on this inner-primary spacer.

Here’s the red billet headlight ring.

Scraping the tape free of the tranny mount for a solid bond.

Some of the frame threads needed chasing which eased assembly. Then Nuttboy bolted in the offset Tranny plate.

“The swingarm spacing was a turkey,” Nuttboy coughed trying to fit the axle. The swingarm axle came with several spacers, none fit perfectly, and we were forced to make spacers and set the swingarm up several times. He gave up on the swingarm and installed the shocks first then the tranny to make allowances for the studs. One had to be shaved due to the offset tranny plate.

Here’s some improved-shock instructions:
Place the motorcycle securely on a stand so no pressure is on the shocks.
Install the new shocks–the hardware was supplied
You’ll need a preload wrench from a dealership to adjust (94455-89).
The preload comes adjusted to the lightest setting. To increase the preload for heavier riders/loads/passengers, loosen the 11/16 locknut and back it off several turns. Use the 11/16 Harley adjustment wrench to turn the adjustment nut counterclockwise to the desired preload setting. Then tighten the 1-inch locknut. Both shocks must be adjusted to the same equal setting.

The swingarm axle came with a variety of spacers, but no guidance. The widened frame was almost two inches wider, maybe more. We would have loved a diagram.

We grappled with it for a couple of hours, then took a research break. Part of the dilemma was the thick red powder coating on the inside of the frame and swingarm parts.

“The fifth stud was removed,” Nuttboy said, “there’s always a stud too many in the Bikernet garage,” Nuttboy commented. Another stud was shortened for clearance. He tightened the tranny plate down but not the tranny until the inner primary is aligned. Directions indicated an Allen plug to replace the 5th stud. We couldn’t find it, so shifted to plan B.

The rear right stud also was ground to clear the shocks due to the offset.

We slipped the engine in from the right. It fit perfectly although Nuttboy had to grind the left rear fin slot, to afford the clearance, for the mounting bolt to fit.

The massive barrels with additional cooling fin area had a slot pre-ground into the rear of the rear cylinder for the motormount bolt, but it wouldn’t fit unless we shaved the bolt or ground one more fin. We ground the fin.

Here’s a 9/16 open end wrench that I bent, with torch heat, years ago to reach that bastard motormount nut behind the inner primary.

We mounted the front motormount bolts in loose at first. With the tranny and engine loose, we used the primary to align the driveline. This move is critical for alignment.

We slid on the inner primary, snugged it down and made sure the engine and the tranny aligned before tightening the motor and tranny mounts down. It’s best to tighten a few bolts, then remove the inner primary, and tighten the final bolts. Nuttboy referred to the stock Softail manual for torque specs (see torque chart at end of article). He made sure to install the rear belt before the swingarm and inner primary. “We still didn’t have the swingarm dialed in,” Nuttboy muttered turning wrenches. “The powder coating was thick and rubbery. This created an issue of tolerance and alignment. We often came to a ‘raise the bridge or lower the river’ type of decision. The swing arm installation gave us a clue, as to the need, to adapt. The instructions were either non-existent or cryptic. So we went with our mechanic’s intuition and marijuana paranoia.”

We also installed the front end on the first day. It was a breeze, except… Nuttboy followed the Remus book and kept in mind that the brake tabs run to the rear of the left leg. He dug through tin drawers to find rubber bumpers to slip over the fork stops and prevent the stops from dinging the frame. We decided to switch the bars for Custom Cycle Engineering, 8-inch, old school, dog bone risers and powder coated bars TT bars. “That will come later,” Nuttboy snapped tightening the lower tree pinch bolts.

The stem was tightened to the lower triple-tree with a counter-sunk Allen on the bottom. We used the supplied red Loctite on anything that was assembled permanently.

Here’s a fork stop in place. Easy livin’. We covered it with a rubber cap to minimize damage to the frame paint.

We used green masking tape around chromed fasteners to prevent peeling the plating. A rubber garden hose like washer goes in the top triple tree then a washer. For some reason these gaskets/oil seals loved to peel out or reacted to the fork tube fluid. We installed the caps loose initially, removed them and poured in 12.5 ounces of fork tube lube. Then we discovered that the assembled lower legs came with loose fasteners on the botton and loose drain plugs, so the fork fluid began to leak.

We replaced both fasteners with Tephlon tape for a secure seal.

Nuttboy torqued the rotors to specs, 18-20 pounds for the front and 25 pounds for the rear and installed the clean billet caliper. The manual called 12.5 ounces of fork lube. That covered our first 6-hour day. The next day, the oil seeped out of one of the legs and was dripping out of the other. Nuttboy was pissed, “We had to re-seal the drain plugs with Teflon tape and tighten the Allens in the bottom of the legs after removing the front wheel.”

Day two began installing the primary drive. We slipped the stator in place with some light grease on the plug. Nuttboy was careful to face the stator so the plug wires ran comfortably inside the case. We greased the plug lightly so it would slide through the case easily. “Make sure to back out the Allen set screw or you’ll be screwed,” Nuttboy barked. “When replacing the screw, take it easy. It can bore right through the plug and cause a short.” He checked to make certain the regulator plug would connect properly before driving the set screw home.

This is a delicate operation. If anything jams, stop and check it. Don’t force the plug, just guide it.

Once the plug protrudes, make sure it gives the regulator plug enough space to make a solid connection.

These little Torx fasteners come pre-Loctite coated. Tighten evenly to 30-40 inch pounds.

One spacer slips over the sprocket shaft before the rotor slides down the splines. It’s key to figure out which spacer is appropriate for the year you’re working with.

I compared several diagrams that run down the installation of rotor to make sure the proper washers were installed. The rotor slipped into place without a problem. “The kit came with a variety of shims to space the compensating sprocket properly with the clutch hub sprocket,” Nuttboy said.

“The Custom Chrome Goliath comes with virtually everything including fluids for the primary, forks, tranny and engine,” Nuttboy gagged, digging through reams of packing material. Once in awhile there was a quirk and the Tim Remus book helped. The chain adjuster parts included fasteners and extra parts, which was occasionally confusing.

The chain adjuster came with several parts including a U-shaped bracket that would generally run on the back of the base plate. We installed the plate with red Loctite on the screws. Later we discovered that the plate had to be removed, because we should have found the proper chart and seen that it used a carriage bolt instead of the U-bracket. Our mistake.

The Bikernet X-Files of fasteners.

“We had an ‘X-Files’ cardboard box for extra fasteners, unnecessary parts, and parts too damned weird to be from this planet,” Nuttboy pointed out clamoring through the box for a solution. “As we assembled the bike, the cardboard shipping boxes flew out the garage door, and the X-Files box overflowed.”

This diagram shows all the elements of the inner primary.

This brings up a key point in building a bike. Read everything first. If we had read Tim’s book from cover to cover, the manual and all the instructions, we would have saved some time. Keep in mind that we built this bike in nine days–part time. We were flying. That’s my goddamn excuse, and I’m sticking to it.

We handled the inner-primary bearing and seal at home with a brass hammer and just the right massive socket.

“This was an area where a pro shop came in handy,” Nuttboy commented trying to force the clutch together. Our garage was not equipped with a press. “Installing seals and bushings must be handled with care,” Nuttboy muttered after reading a comment in Tim’s book. Using a brass hammer and a large socket works, but is not recommended. “A good shop,” Nuttboy said loading the clutch parts in the truck, “like Larry Settle’s in Harbor City, California, can handle this aspect in five minutes.” With the bearing and seal in place, in the inner primary, and the proper bushing selected for the starter coupler, we were ready to install the inner primary and torqued the bolts to 20 pounds.

This bushing was also handled in the Bikernet Headquarters.

These are a bunch of tricky parts. Follow the diagram carefully.

Here’s another shot of the starter shaft components. It’s easy, but make sure you have them in the correct order.

Should slip right in with some help between the inner primary and the tranny.

Picking the proper bushing was a key element. Since we didn’t have trememdous experience with various models we used the starter shaft parts as a guide.

Here’s the outter primary bushing gooped with Never Cease.

The inner primary was torqued into place. Don’t force it and make sure all the O-rings are in place around the engine spacer.

Here’s that goddamn chain adjuster in place.

Subscribe to American Rider, I did.

“Hold it,” Nuttboy barked from under the lift. “We inspected the edges of the powder coated wide drive spacer, first,” Nuttboy grumbled. “We greased the O-rings for a solid seal. The guys who worked with Tim on his book recommended Never-Cease instead of grease for primary related slippery parts.” The starter gears were a trick and we used the manual for guidance. Nuttboy installed the regulator after cleaning the installation area for a solid ground. He also installed the starter. That blew through another day, 8 hours.

Nuttboy ground off the regulator mount paint with the emery bit for a solid ground.

This was a bad and unsuccessful move. Larry Settles pressed the clutch together in five minutes at his shop. We need a press in the Headquarters.

We started the third day with the clutch hub and shell pressed together at Larry Settles’ and the fiber plates soaked in primary fluid over night. Nuttboy installed the clutch and compensating sprockets with the wide drive shaft extensions and shims. We tightened the Clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds of torque and the compensating sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds of torque. Then he checked the alignment of the primary chain and adjusted the shims behind the shaft extension to give us a .004 to .014 tolerance. After Nuttboy adjusted the clutch pushrod, it was time to bolt up the outer primary with a new gasket.

The fiber clutch plates were soaked for 24 hours in primary lube.

Here’s the pieces used with the clutch pushrod to adjust the clutch. Final pieces to be installed with clip ring pliers after the clutch is torqued into place.

Here’s the compensating sprocket shims. After the clutch is installed and the sprocket with the chain we measured from the chain to edge of the inner primary with feeler gauges to make sure that the distance from the front of the chain to the clutch was no more than .014 inch. If not we needed to adjust the shims.

Here’s the various bushings out of focus.

We cleaned up the countersunk holes for a tight fit.

Ah, the primary locked-up. Don’t forget the fluid.

This is the primary drain plug with magnet attached and Tephlon tape in the background.

Primary plug in place. Later we were suspicious and pulled it, shaved off half of the magnet and replaced it. It may have been hitting the clutch.

“Ah, but first,” Nuttboy corrected, “we determined the correct bushing to press into the outer primary for the starter pinion gear. With primary installed Nuttboy bolted in the drain plug with Teflon tape and filled the inner primary to 1/4 inch above the clutch shell lip (with the bike upright) and attached the derby cover with an O-ring.

Here are the components involved with the top motormount. Keep in mind that the horn bracket is part of the mixture, unless you’re like me and would toss it in the trash.

Next we installed the top motor mount, horn and choke bracket. Watch this little puzzle closely. I ended up dropping the horn down some to make for more clearance.

We trimmed a fastener to fit.

Ultimately we discovered that the gas tank touched the motormount bracket and had to move some spacers around.

We found the oil tank brackets (unchromed) packaged with the rear axle. We primered them and painted them black.

Nuttboy then installed the battery cables. Tim’s book was helpful determining which cable went where. “It’s good to install them before you attempt the oil can assembly,” Nuttboy pointed out. The oil can brackets were vacuum packed with the rear axle and un-chromed. It was a hunt to find them.” Nuttboy spat. “Who would expect to find oil tank brackets packed with the rear axle?”

We moved onto the front wheel which had been powder coated and cleared by Custom Powder Coating, then George, The Wild Brush (310) 488-5488 pinstriped both wheels to conceal the powdered edge. The front wheel was a breeze using the one long spacer on the right and two short spacers for the left portion of the axle.

Make sure the wheel is centered and tightened down. Then with the supplied shims, center the caliper over the rotor.

“One had a small lip that fits in the seal and prevents it from falling out,” Nuttboy pointed out, his bike building, education expanding. Then we installed the caliper.

One of the most time-consuming aspects of building a bike is hunting and or making shims and spacers. Lotsa tools helps out.

Nuttboy shaving a washer for a perfect fit.

We sought to center the swingarm in the frame by manipulating spacers and shims.

Here’s some of the tools involved in spacer/fitment wars.

It took some precision calculations to fabricate the perfect fit.

Finally we shifted back to the swingarm and spacing madness. Nuttboy worked the spacers until it was centered in the frame. “Where the shaft was a delicate problem,” Nuttboy grumbled, “the rear wheel was no problem.” He followed the supplied diagram to the tee, although one spacer had to be altered, perhaps due to the thickness of the protective powder coating.

Sure we stumbled from time to time. We don’t build Softails daily, but the Beach Ride Bike was flying together. That summed up day three. Stay tuned as we stumble back into the teetering garage.

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Grab a beer, here’s part five of the Goliath Bike Build for the Exceptional Children’s Foundation Beach Ride. This promotional project wouldn’t be possible without the contribution and support of George Hayward, who funded it. The crew of Bikernet.com built the bike with additional hands belonging to a novice American Rider, Nuttboy. His past is too sordid to mention.

The frame, wheel rims, and miscellaneous parts were powder coated by Custom Powder Coating in Dallas (214) 638-6416 to match the hue used by Santini Paint (714) 891-8895, for the sheet metal.

As we wrapped up the third day of construction last issue we had installed the entire driveline front-end and both wheels. We were rocking with the assistance of the Tim Remus book, How To Build A Kit Bike. The book is available in the Bikernet Gulch. Let’s get to work.

Nuttboy kicked off day four by installing the coil, which would seem a no-brainer. The bracket bolted to the frame stress tube behind the engine. The coil installed effortlessly, then the powder coated cover slipped into place. Unfortunately the cover fasteners didn’t line up.

“Small buzzing tools and a careful hand corrected the problem,” Nuttboy muttered setting the dremel tool on the lift.

Setting up sparkplug wires isn’t rocket science. Measure them correctly, leaving plenty of slack for trimming. Make sure to pull the rubber boots on first so you don’t have to drag them over the brass fittings.

Also, trim plenty of insulation away from the carbon wire to make considerable contact when you bend the center over the end and press it between the insulation and the brass fitting. You don’t want it to vibrate loose and pop free to lose connection.

This takes finesse. Pinch them in from the sides then down in the center with needle nose pliers.

Nuttboy shifted to oil tank installation. The first aspect launched us into an interesting stumbling block. We couldn’t find the brackets for the oil tank? They weren’t with the oil tank at all. We dug through box after box. Here’s the key. If we ordered a complete Santee frame, it would be shipped with the oil tank and rear axle. Since we ordered the entire kit, the rear axle was vacuum wrapped separately from the frame and oil tank.

Guess what was plastic sealed with the rear axle? Yep, the two brackets for the front of the tank and the one long rear bracket. The oil tank is mounted front and rear with rubbermounted studs. Take it slow to figure out what goes where. Install everything loose first.

Since the mild steel brackets were missing in action we didn’t have them chromed or powder coated. That left the two-stage black rattle-can finish. We cleaned and primered them, then after 24 hours, hit them with a couple of coats of gloss black.

Here’s the case vent that runs directly to the inside front oil tank fitting.

Nuttboy took care to run the vent line first, then the oil pump to filter hose following the diagram that comes with the RevTech 100-inch engine. He made absolutely sure to run lines carefully clear of sharp edges or hot parts. Next he installed the oil line from the filter to the tank.

This line runs comfortable under the oil tank to allow draining clear to a funnel. You don’t want it to show, but make it as long as possible.

This one was a bastard to run.

Finally the feed line ran from the tank to the pump, “I don’t know why the it ran around the frame tube,” Nuttboy cussed, “It was a bitch to reach.” He noted that often it’s best to slip the hose clamps over the rubber tubes prior to sliding them over nipples. “Watch for the positioning of the clamp fasteners,” Nuttboy added, “It will save time and frustration.”

Here’s the return line from the oil pump to the oil filter.

After the oil tank was installed Nuttboy decided to bolt up the ground strap. Here’s one of those reasons for never tightening something before you know it’s in the right spot. He installed a ground strap backward and we were forced to drill out the lug.

Next we picked a spot at the rear of the frame behind the oil tank to use as the ground. We cleaned away the heavy powder coating and sanded it to a bare frame before installing the cable. The cable runs from behind the starter to the frame and from behind the starter to the negative battery terminal for the best possible ground.

Next he dug through the parts box to find the forward foot controls. The right side connected easily to the frame with blue Loctite. The Left shift lever bracket and kickstand took a 1-inch spacer to make up for the offset primary, then we ran into a problem mounting the kickstand.

The right side bolted right up with Blue Loctite.

You can see the billet aluminum offset spacer to push the controls out an inch. We also needed longer bolts.

We used additional washers to solve a spacing hassle and moved ahead. All the fluids came with the kit, so Nuttboy quickly filled the oil tank. Another half day had slipped away.

You can see where the kickstand bracket hit the backing plate for the shifter. Rather than grinding the plate we searched for some spacing washers to handle the job.

The Goliath kit comes with a massive Rick Doss, side mount, license plate and taillight bracket. We decided to use some aspects of it and tighten the look of the bike some. We drilled the bracket, dug around through drawers for the proper spacer and hardware and redesign the right footpeg mount to incorporate the license and taillight. It worked out tight and right.

Here’s the spacer we found and the bolt.

We drilled the bracket to 1/2-inch for the footpeg stud, ran the license vertical and were good to go.

That’s it for this week. Stay tuned. We’ll try to drop in a Goliath tech every-other week until this puppy roars to life. If you’re interested in a bike build, order a Custom Chrome catalog first. It will give you tremendous info.

Stay Tuned.

–Bandit

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Day five kicked off with a guessing-game tribute. It took us nine days to build this sonuvabitch and nine months to post the articles. No excuses, we’re getting there. We had to figure out which hydraulic lines and fittings went where. Nuttboy set up all the lines loose to test various configurations.

“Take some time,” Nuttboy muttered wondering if he had it right, “there’s no set rule.” There was just enough flexibility with the brake switch mounting to keep us guessing. Three puzzling lines were involved: Front brake, rear caliper to brake switch and brake switch to master cylinder.

Before locking down any lines we decided to adjust the shocks. They can only be properly calibrated with the bike jacked up to relieve any pressure. Then the eyes were released from the swingarm and spun. They don’t adjust from the center.

We set the bike low for looks, and for fender installation clearance. If we had set the bike high, mounted the fender then lowered it, we might have encountered fender rubbing problems. Ultimately we experienced the swingarm smacking the frame rails. I did some research and discovered other experienced builders with similar maladies. We spaced the rubber stoppers out to prevent further problems.

The hydraulic lines were notoriously long, but better long than short. With some creative ability we altered the position of the brake switch to make up for extra line length. Nuttboy Teflon coated fittings without copper or soft O-ring gaskets and tightened them appropriately.

The front brake line was a breeze due to the assortment of fittings and one accurately measured line. The simple Rick Doss bracket with directions installed effortlessly under the bottom triple-tree for a custom touch.

Next Nuttboy installed the speedo sensor in the trans. We searched for a 1/4-inch longer 1/4-20 Allen for the cap and 6-speed spacer. Since one didn’t come with the kit, we used a stainless Allen bolt that we polished for a chromed look.

Nuttboy installed the powder coated rear splashguard with CCI supplied chromed fasteners. Since it wasn’t chromed we went with powder-red for a matched look. “Keep in mind,” Nuttboy spoke up after his second beer, “the splashguard goes on inside of the swingarm tabs, not the side closest to the tire.” We burned through another four hours and ducked out of the Bikernet headquarters.

BRAND NEW CUSTOM CHROME CATALOG RELEASED–

Custom Chrome’s new offering for 2004. The California based distributor brings you the most comprehensive product offering in the Harley-Davidson aftermarket! At over 1,200 pages and over 22,000 part numbers, their 2004 Catalog features the new RevTech 110 Motor, Hard Core II, Ares bikekits and noumious frames and forks–everything from nuts & bolts to performance products. It’s the Custom Bike Bible for the year.

ONLY $9.95 + 6.95 Shipping**

Day six, we checked our seven-day deadline. We had one day remaining. The powder coated pulley arrived from Texas with the edge polished and cleared. It was a nasty touch to the overall look of the bike. The Goliath came with a solid narrow pulley to match the massive rear wheel, but we decided on a change from H-D to add some detail. Not bad.

“I got in trouble,” Nuttboy muttered shuffling his boots on the deck, “I installed the pulley bolts in haste and dinged the swingarm paint above the axle with the ratchet extension.” By moving the wheel back, with the axle adjusters, clearance was enhanced. Nuttboy tightened the red Loctite touched fasteners to 55-65 foot pounds. The brake rotor was fastened with blue Loctite to 25-30 foot pounds of torque.

George delivered the sharp sheet metal from Santini Paint, and we quickly jumped the custom tank and suddenly noted that the top engine motor-mount position had to be adjusted for clearance. First off, we pried rubber grommets into the tank tabs using a wooden wedge to prevent damage to the paint or grommets.

Nuttboy installed the tank bracket and one side of the tank then chased the powder coated threads on the frame backbone. He installed the petcock considering the angle and position of the nipple and how the hose would route to the carb. Next he installed the gas line, the fuel filter, and the gas caps.

“Note,” Nuttboy interjected, “that the left gas cap has left-handed threads.” The bottom of the petcock was also left handed. “Don’t tighten them to the base,” Nuttboy added. “We centered the fittings in the threads. Then with Teflon coating the threads I screwed it into the tank bottom.” If the petcock wasn’t aimed properly we loosened the tank collar, aimed it and tightened it down. Another day slipped away.

Day Seven

Day seven started with templates, our lovely female assistant, made of the fender rails and marked mounting holes. We installed the rails loose and masked them to prevent damage to the sheet metal. We created 1 1/4-inch spacers, taped them to the tire, made sure the wheel was aligned and removed the jack. We also adjusted the belt, so that the wheel was in running position. We chose 1 1/4 inches for the following reasons. The bike was lowered to the point that it had less than an inch of travel, maybe 3/4-inch. If it bottomed it still wouldn’t hit the fender by 1/2 inch. Keep in mind that there’s a seat bracket stud under the fender. Clearance was needed.

“This was a tough one,” Nuttboy said, “There wasn’t any specific fender mounting guidelines. We used the seat, styling looks and fender to tire spacers to indicate fender position.” I’m still not sure we did it correctly. Note the fender rail position, although it fit the seat perfectly.

Using a grease pencil we marked the position of the fender rails on the fender, then the templates were used to note the position of the mounting holes. “First,” Nuttboy added with a bark, “drilling the mounting holes should take place before painting to prevent goof ball damage to the paint job.” He was right. Position the fender first, drill the holes and then paint the sucker. We had a screaming deadline an all the components rolled to powdercoating and paint before we could fuck with them. Ah, but George took the rails out to a machinist and had them radiused for a more refined look.

It’s helpful to drill the cardboard template and make sure that it is marked as exactly as possible. Then center-punch the fender and drill the first hole with a small bit. “Pray that the holes line up,” Nuttboy added. They didn’t and some monkey-business was necessary. That ended day seven.

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Custom Chrome’s new offering for 2004. The California based distributor brings you the most comprehensive product offering in the Harley-Davidson aftermarket! At over 1,200 pages and over 22,000 part numbers, their 2004 Catalog features the new RevTech 110 Motor, Hard Core II, Ares bikekits and noumious frames and forks–everything from nuts & bolts to performance products. It’s the Custom Bike Bible for the year.

ONLY $9.95 + 6.95 Shipping**

Day Eight

Day eight started at 11:30 a.m. when Nuttboy drilled the seat bracket hole, being careful not to drill through the tire. “Care must be taken mounting the seat grommet,” Nuttboy added. “There was a good 3/16-inch of bondo on the top of the fender.”

We were rockin’. We cleaned the fender holes, installed the bolts to the rails, loose and installed the fender on the frame with the rails attached, checked the fender location, tightened the rear fender bolts then rocked the fender, attached to the fender rails, forward and tightened the remaining bolts. Finally Nuttboy tightened the Allens holding the rails against the frame.

We moved right onto the powder coated handlebars and discovered that the throttle wouldn’t slip over the coating.

“Sanding was required,” Nuttboy explained. We didn’t use the pullback bars that came with the kit and replaced them with TT-bars and 8-inch Custom Cycle Engineering traditional dogbone risers.

The bars, controls, switches, clutch and throttle cables are a bear. “Take your time,” Nuttboy muttered remembering the process. “I could have used four midget hands easily.” The right side is more complex because it encased throttle cables and throttle tension adjustment fasteners.

The tension screw was slipped into the base then Nuttboy struggled to fit a very tiny C-clip onto the shaft, so the adjuster could never vibrate out.

“Lube the cables before installation with a thin oil or silicone lubricant,” Nuttboy muttered. The throttle cables have two different diameter housings so you can’t go wrong. The cable with the spring on the end is the return cable. Make sure the throttle cables are routed cleanly, no binding.

This shot shows both cables and cable ends in place. It’s tough to hold all these elements in place in addition to the switch housing, while slipping everything into place.”The front of the tranny must be removed to fit the clutch cable in place,” Nuttboy said and reminded me to re-adjust clutch push-rod afterwards. “And don’t glue any bar grips in place before all the switch boxes and controls are fitted.”

Here’s the clutch cable in place. Remember the dime adjustment. Adjust the clutch push rod until there is a quarter turn of slop. Then fool with the cable until you can pull on the cable next to the housing and slip a dime into the gap.

The polished stainless steel belt guard was sharp and clean. Nuttboy also installed the stainless belt guard, which didn’t align with the mounting holes and took some time to modify. No problem. Keep in mind that we assembled this custom in slightly over a week. With a month, this would have been a breeze.

We were into our eighth day when we used the gravity method of bleeding the front brakes. We filled the master cylinder, pumped carefully and allowed the air bubbles to escape through the reservoir.

Keep the master cylinder filled with DOT 5 brake fluid. Jiggle the caliper and the line once in a while and the air will move north and escape through the master cylinder.

While it did its thing, we turned to the wiring. We’ll get to final aspects of the Goliath masterpiece in the next couple of weeks. Hold us to it. If you don’t see the wiring tech posted send me an e-mail. We need to wrap it up and go for a ride.

Here’s the rear brake during the bleeding process. When lines run parallel air bubbles are often trapped.

I often remove the caliper, slip a file in between the pads (similar thickness to the rotor) and lift it to allow the air to escape. Then I bleed it as usual.

That’s is for this week. See you next time.

–Bandit

WIRING MADNESS–THE LAST TECH

We even cleaned muffler bracket threaded holes we didn’t use.

Okay, we’re late launching this, like by several months. I apologize and I’ve wired another bike between this bastard and now, so my memory fades. This predominately, took place on the ninth day of the build. Hell, we built the bike faster than we wrote or launched the articles–go figure. I prefer to wire bikes with few bullshit, little switches and gadgets that could leave me alongside the road. This called for nearly stock Softail wiring, although we did ditch the turn signals. The absolute keys to wiring are care, patience and a sketched out plan.

Draw a pencil sketch of the bike and where the components are positioned. The Thunder Heart wiring system came with three schematics. We had to figure out which one was appropriate for this scoot. Once we had it (Typical EHC Softail Wiring), nailed down wiring moved along .

“Yeah right,” Nuttboy spouted, “the headlight wires were not marked high or low beam, neither were the taillight wires or coil wires.” Some testing was required. The directions called for viewing the main circuit plugs from the mating end. “That wasn’t the case and we lost time, damaged the connectors, plus disassembling at the connector plugs is a bear,” he said and gulped his Corona. Fortunately we soldered each connection for a secure, lasting working fit.

The black EHC box strapped to the frame.

The Thunder Heart consists of five major components. There are four harnesses: one for each side of the handlebars, one front harness, and one rear harness. There is also one central harness controller.

“They also pack in all the shrink-wrap, tie-wraps and connectors we needed,” Nuttboy added.

Each harness plugs into the central control unit. “We attached each wire to the terminal plugs,” Nuttboy said cringing. Individual wires are pushed through the backside of the plug. Then the connectors must be crimped into place and finally pushed into the plug base.

“We could go on about the wiring all night,” Nuttboy sniveled.

This shows the position of the EHC under the dash. There’s plenty of wire to reach any component.

It’s true, but if you follow the code above and read the instruction, then take your time, you’ll be pleased with the outcome. The instructions call for mounting the Split Tank EHC control unit on the top frame tube between the gas tanks. The black plastic mounting base is molded to fit the tube radius and slotted to accept zip tie fasteners. The EHC latches onto the mounting base via the three mounting tabs so that the diagnostic instructions are visible with the dash removed.

Just another goddamn connector.

With the EHC mounted, attach the rear harness connector to the EHC mating connector. Notice that each wire is labeled according to its function. Route each wire to its destination, but do not cut to length just yet. Keep wires bundled together until they need to break off to their destination. Try to minimize the number of branches from the main harness by combining wires that branch off closely in one larger branch as they will make the heat shrink easier to apply later.

Use electrical tape to construct branch points and to temporarily attach harnesses while fitting is done. Remember to allow extra length for suspension movement or strain relief when locating attachment points. Take care to route harness away from sharp edges, surfaces that may pinch wires or hot pipes. Wires not used should be terminated at the connector to prevent short circuits. Repeat this procedure for the front harness and the right/left control harnesses. When all wires are routed and the harnesses are temporarily attached at their mounting points, cut the excess length from the ends of the wires leaving them approximately 3 inches too long for the final fitment.

Note: the horn and aux power circuits are found on both front and rear harness connectors to allow for different mounting locations. Use the most convenient one for the horn, both aux power circuits may be used, or not, as needed.

Once the harness has been trial fitted to the bike, remove it for the next step, which is to apply the heat shrinkable tubing. Starting from the main connector, cut a piece long enough so that it extends 1-inch past the first branch intersection. This extra length will allow the tubing for the branches to slide into the main tubing. This creates a smooth transition to the other legs of the harness. When a tubing section ends at a termination point (connector/terminal) slide a long piece into the main tubing and then cut at the end of the wire (taking off the last 1/4-inch or so of wire as well).

With the heat shrink tubing installed, use a heat gun to shrink the tubing starting at the main connector and working to the other end. Now refit the harness to the bike attaching the main connector to the EHC first, then attaching the harness to the frame where necessary. Finally, cut the ends of the harness to length allowing room for motion and strip the ends. Attach the terminals to the wire ends and use the heat gun to shrink the strain reliefs (if no shrink tube is attached to the terminal use the 1-inch pieces supplied in the kit.)

The EHC is designed to control LED type dash indicators. LEDs are brighter, vibration resistant, more power efficient, usually need no replacement and are generally easier to mount on a custom bike. When a Thunder Heart LED indicator panel is used, simply find a suitable mounting location and plug the supplied cable into the EHC.

Day nine started with Bloody Marys at noon. We wired the speedo to the tranny using separate connectors from what the kit offered. We ground the instrument dash to the frame.

Here’s another goddamn wiring connection in place.

Custom Chrome even supplied the battery insulation for the tank.

“This is all a trick of taking the time to route and combine the wires carefully,” Nuttboy added wringing his hands.

The dash was tricky to align for mounting and we fought it for a half hour. “We carefully drilled and taped the 1/4-20 hole in the frame,” Nuttboy pointed out, “to mount the rear of the dash.” We took a break to chase women then returned to the fray.

Next we cut the supplied Samson baffles in half to prevent over restricting the big straight pipes, then cut the pipes slightly to even the length and attached down-turned muffler tips.

Actually San Pedro Muffler helped us with the modified exhaust, which we mounted to the right side transmission bracket for a clean, secure and light assembly.

We drilled through the tranny bracket with a 3/8-inch drill.

The plan included these tabs welded to the Golaith exhaust.

Here’s where the tabs needed to fit. Can you see it?

We couldn’t leave the pipes alone. They were 2-inch and bone straight. We added some baffle for performance back pressure downward tips for style and a respectable exhaust tone.

I tacked these bastards in place but my MIG welding experience lacked any class. I needed help.

Here’s the hardware we used for the job.

These shots are embarrassing. I swear I’ve improved my MIG welding techniques since then.

Tim at San Pedro muffler saved our butts with his MIG welding expertise.

Since we had just over a week to build this beast, no time for re-chrome. Rattlecan black over Tim’s, San Pedro Muffler, much improved welds.

So what do you think of the finished jobs?

We also modified the Doss taillight (that is designed to run on the right side unlike most side-mounted lamps) and passenger peg for a tighter look. The tinkering and break-in period was upon us.

There’s always a forgotten something. Don’t forget fluids for the tranny, engine and primary.

“Damn,” Nuttboy shouted from the garage. “We forgot the cross-over vent tube between the gas tanks. “

Watch out, when we reveal the finished product, the co-workers and the cheer-leading team of San Pedro alley punks. Don’t miss it. I swear, in the next couple of days.

 

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This is one of those shop quiet times installations. You want to make sure all the stars are aligned for this one. Stroll outside the shop with an icy Corona and look to the heavens for inspiration. Sturgis was looming and since this bike was all about vintage I needed a kicker system. I've installed the Muller system from Germany. I've wrestled with a custom chrome 5-Speed kicker transmission into my 1956 Shovel, a very rare motorcycle, so I'm not without some experience. But Baker took the kicker development to a new stronger level, which involved removal of the entire gear set, replacing the trap door and more. I never held an entire gear set in my nervous hands, like a man holding his newborn baby.

Having an inexperienced wrench write a tech tip has it's ups and downs. He could fuck up everything, but on the other hand he'll write about it, so you won't make the same bullshit mistakes. I know first hand that if you've performed the same task a dozen times, the details become second nature and usually are not documented properly. There's my Zen notion for the day, oh humble gods of Baker Drivetrains.

On top of Sturgis pressure, and the unknown Galaxy of emotions, my Epson Camera was acting up. It's been the best for shop techs, beyond Canon or Nikon, but that's another story. I'll scramble my thoughts between data from the Baker team of experts.

First, here's a list of the applications available for this modification:

• 1990-2006 Softails™, FLT/FLH™, and FXR™ models
• 1991-2005 Dyna™ Models
• BAKER DD5 complete and builder’s kits.

IMPOTANT NOTES TO BE CONSIDERED

• BAKER Factor 5 Kicker will not clear most stock exhaust systems due to the extended length of the transmission door and kicker. Most true duels usually fit FLT/FLH models. Rear pipes that route away from the right side of the transmission usually fit.

• The kicker arm will not clear the stock right side passenger floor board on FLT/FLH models. Installation of foot pegs or smaller footboards are required.

• Twin Cam models require installation of a cam-based ignition. See BAKER 2008-2009 Supplement for ignition alternatives or consult a BAKER sales tech.

• Fuel injected models require retrofit to carburetor.

GETTING STARTED The BAKER Factory 5 Kicker kit is designed to be easily installed by any competent mechanic or dealership technician. Having your H-D factory service manual is required for this installation as it is referred to in many sections of the instructions. While this kit is made to be as easy as possible to install there is no substitution for experience. To install the F5K kit, disassembly of the transmission down to the gearset is required. We recommend reading through these instructions, to the end, before proceeding with installation process.

TOOLS, RESOURCES, REQUIRED PARTS

• Factory Service Manual For Your Motorcycle
• Factory Parts Manual For Your Motorcycle
• Common American sockets and open end wrenches
• ToolB-56, BAKER Inner Race Service Kit or H-D equivalent
• Hydraulic Press
• In-lbs Torque Wrench
• Brake Bleeder Pump (for hydraulic type)

NOTES: HYDRAULIC VERSION ONLY

To complete the Installation of the hydraulic F5K, the following parts will have to be procured to complete the job:

• Hydraulic Fluid, BAKER Recommends: H-D Dot 5 Brake Fluid, PN 99902-77
• Correct length AN -3 Brake Line
• 10mm Banjo Fitting & washers for both ends of brake line
• 3/8”-24 Banjo Bolt for the side cover end of the brake line
• 11/16” Diameter Bore Hydraulic Clutch Lever Assembly or H-D

GEARSET REMOVAL

To remove your existing gearset, refer to your Factory Service Manual in section 7, Mainshaft/Countershaft removal. Follow the trap door/gearset removal procedure. Hint: with the stock side cover off, remove the nyloc jam nuts from the ends of the shafts BEFORE the trap door/gearset assembly is drawn out of the transmission case. A ½” impact gun works really keen for this task. Leave the main drive gear in the case.

The top needed to be removed from the tranny, then the shifting drum (4 Allen bolts). With the front of the transmission removed some shifting fork shafts will slip out through the trap door in the front. Sometimes the sprocket or pulley can be removed and there's an Allen plug under the sprocket, in case the drap door doesn't have a hole in it.

DISASSEMBLING GEARSET

Once the trap door/gearset assembly is out of the transmission case, put it on a soft towel on a clean bench. If that pesky right ‘C’ dowel is stuck in the door, remove it by tapping it through with a hammer and a punch or pulling it through with a pair of vise grips. This will allow the gasket side of the door to sit flat on the support beam of the hydraulic press.

With the gearset facing down and the gasket side of the door of the support beam of the hydraulic press, press the end of the mainshaft down 1/8” and then do the same to the countershaft. Alternate pressing on the ends of both shafts (1/8” at a time) until the shafts fall out.

IT IS VERY HANDY TO HAVE A SECOND PERSON CATCHING THE SHAFTS AS THEY FALL OUT.

Do not allow the shafts to fall and hit the ground. Remove the conical thrust washer on the mainshaft as the ratchet hub (PN 308-5) will replace this part during the re-assembly process. Keep the stock conical thrust washer (the one without the step on the back side) on the counter shaft. Put the ‘prepared’ gear clusters on the soft towel on the bench.

Here's the conical washer with the step in place on the countershaft.

Pressing the mainshaft into the new Baker kicker trap door. I was very careful about this operation and still question as to whether the shaft was pressed in all the way. Tough to see.

BEARING DOOR ASSEMBLY

1.) Remove the Factory 5 Kicker bearing door (PN 1-5SK(P,R,B)) assembly from the package. Clean your mainshaft and countershaft threads with lacquer thinner and dry them completely before pressing the shafts into the door.

Now take your mainshaft assembly and support it vertically in the press with the clutch end of the mainshaft at the facing down. Insure that the cage bearing is still on the cluster with first gear around it. Now take your Factory 5 Kicker bearing door (PN 1-5SK(P,R,B)) assembly and press the mainshaft into the ratchet hub (PN 308-5) while using the ratchet hub (PN 308-5) as your press point (figure 2).

This shows the shaft pressed into place in the ratchet kicker gear.

Make sure your mainshaft is perfectly vertical before pressing it in, damage to threads could incur if not vertical. Remove assembly from press. Apply thread ‘Red’ thread lock to the mainshaft retainer nut (PN RV-7050) and torque to 45-55 ft/lbs.

This shot shows angling the countershaft to mesh with the main shaft gears for assembly. 2.) Take the countershaft assembly with the threads facing up. Make sure the thick washer is still in place and place in the press supported vertically. Now take the Factory 5 Kicker bearing door (PN 1-5SK(P,R,B)) assembly and place it on to the countershaft. You will have to angle it on to get the gears to line up properly.

Pressing the countershaft into its bearing in the trap door. Again, I was uncertain about hitting bottom, because the fit was extremely tight. I spoke to Scott Lerg, the master Baker designer, and he told me the nyloc nuts would pull the shafts into final position.

Once the mainshaft is parallel with the countershaft place the countershaft press tool on to the countershaft bearing in the assembly (see picture). Slowly press the countershaft into the bearing door making sure all the gears spin freely. Once the countershaft is seated, clean the threads with lacquer thinner and blow dry completely. Apply ‘Red’ thread lock to the countershaft retainer nut and torque to 45-55 ft/lbs. Your bearing door assembly is complete

GEARSET INSTALLATION

1.) Refer to your Factory Service Manual for proper gearset installation.

2.) You will need to use the supplied fork rod (PN 122-56K) for installation.

3.) Replace the bearing door assembly with the supplied gasket (PN 35652-79B).

4.) Once the gearset is in the transmission case. Use the four supplied 5/16-18 x 1-1/4 SHCS (PN 73496) and 5/16 washers (PN 6100) in the lower four holes of the bearing door. Using ‘Blue’ thread lock, torque the bolts to 13-16 ft/lbs. Install the four supplied.

Don't forget to center the shifting cog over the drum pins for accurate shifting.

¼-20 x 1-1/4 SHCS (PN 73463) and ¼ washers (PN 609SS) in the upper four holes of the bearing door. Using ‘Blue’ thread lock, torque the bolts to 7-9 ft/lbs (84-108 in/lbs)

Here's the adjustment cam for the shifting cog above. Just loosen the nut and rotate the Allen for centering.

5.) Install your top cover per your Factory Service Manual using the supplied top cover gasket (PN 34904-86C)

Baker trap door in place.

CABLE TYPE KICKER COVER INSTALLATION: PN 578-56M(P,B,R)-K Refer to your Factory Service Manual to remove your clutch cable from your side cover ball and ramp assembly.

1.) Place the side cover gasket on the two 10mm dowels (PN 16583-00) on the bearing door assembly.

This plate slipped right on, but there's a trick. I slipped the rachet spring onto the gear, laying on the bench and over the lip. Then the unit slipped on without a problem.

2.) While making sure the ratchet gear (PN 310-56K) is still retained by the kicker crank gear (PN 33350-56), place the side cover on to the two 10mm dowels (PN 16583-00). While holding the cover in place take the nine supplied 5/16-18 x 1 ¼ SHCS (PN 73496) with 5/16washers (PN 6100) and apply ‘blue’ thread lock to the threads. Now torque the fasteners to 13-16 ft/lbs (156-192 in/lbs).

Here's the ball ramp cover removed.

3.) Remove the six fasteners holding the ball and ramp cover on. Remove the ball and ramp cover and gasket at this time as well.

Clutch throw-out rod and bearing.

4.) Install the supplied clutch throw out rod (PN 125-5R) at this time through the pinion gear quill (PN 585-5)

I threaded the clutch cable into place, no problem.

5.) Thread your clutch cable into the side cover. Loosen the clutch cable adjustment all the way so there is maximum cable exposed in the side cover.

I greased the balls, so I wouldn't lose them during this testing phase.

6.) With the cable fully extended in the side cover take the supplied ball and ramp assembly and slide it over the cable. Install the clutch cable ferrule

Here's the ball ramp assembly. (PN 3094-DSSC) and ‘seat’ the cable. 7.) Install the ball and ramp assembly with outer ramps ‘tab’ in the 2 ‘o’clock position. 8.) Now place the ball and ramp cover plate with gasket back into position.

Here's my torque wrench. I don't trust them. With the size of that arm, it's super easy to over torque a ¼-20 fastener, as I did. It will haunt me until I repair it.

9.) Using ‘Blue’ thread lock, install the six bolts. Torque the four ¼-20 x ¾ (PN 25C50KLHS) to 7-9 ft/lbs (84-108 in/lbs). Torque the two #10-24 x 5/8 (PN 10C50KLHS) to 4-5 ft/lbs (54-60 in/lbs).

The Baker kit comes with a special-made 24-ounce bottle of Spectro Gear Oil. No mistakes or over-filling.

KICK ARM INSTALLATION

1) Install the kick arm on to the kicker crank gear shaft.

2) Tighten the pinch bolt on the kicker crank gear shaft so that there is no sloppy movement in the kicker arm assembly.

3) Either with your hand or leg, ‘kick’ the kick arm and run it through its motion to make sure everything is working properly.

Even the kicker arm is cast stainless with a solid bronze kicker pedal, with a rough texture finish, designed to be kicked.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

1.) Install your primary and adjust your clutch per your Factory Service Manual at this time.

2.) With the bike vertical fill your transmission with the supplied 23oz. bottle of Spectro™ 75W140.

3.) Follow your Factory Service Manual to finish assembly on your motorcycle.

4.) Your BAKER Factory 5 Kicker installation is complete

For any installation or service questions, please contact our BAKER technical department toll free 1-877-640-2004.

Hang on for the next installment. Final assembly will begin with a BDL primary install, a Spyke alternator/regulator system, and we're getting ready to ride.

You'll see George's pinstriping, Tony's powder coating workmanship and my sloppy wiring.

–Bandit

We'll let the Girls of Bikernet from the 2010 Calendar judge this tech.