Bikernet Blog - Online Biker Magazine

5-Ball Factory Racer, Part 4

By Robin Technologies | February 21, 2024

We experienced an incredible month of hiccups and grievances. My computer crashed immediately after I spent a long weekend in Primm, Nevada, locked in a hotel room, rewriting my first Chance book. I lost it all. Then I'm attacked with the vertigo venom and laid out like a sick puppy, terrified that my life as a motorcyclist was over. Then the nasty tenants who rented our 1-bedroom apartment disappeared during the worst economic downturn in our history, we lost that income and needed to pour a minimum of eight grand into that puppy to make it rentable once more. Good god, plus we were burnin' daylight and needed to shovel a new paying tenant into place.

There's my excuse for not working on the 5-Ball Factory Racer more. I hate doom and gloom. Hell, there's no time for that shit. “No time to lose” is one of my codes. I'll rewrite the book over the next couple of weeks, and it will be even better. The apartment will be completed this weekend with finished hardwood floors, completely new kitchen, bathroom, all new paint, a new laundry room and more. New tenants are moving in tomorrow. And Vertigo is like a mystery movie. I was down three days then back at the computer and firing away, just don't ask me to walk a straight line. Plus, the mystery, as to the source or cause is still in full swing. I'll let you know what I find out. I gotta quit snorting paint fumes.

Dick Allen captured the essence of the FBFR and the impending ride across the Mojave to the Black Hills this summer.

In the meantime, there's 5-Ball Factory Racer progress to report. Since the plan was to build a comfortable vintage looking speedster and ride it to Sturgis, we need enough fuel capacity to fly me across the desert and not leave me in the sand, baking with lonely tarantulas.

These flat-sided tanks designed by Rick Krost and built by Paughco are in keeping with a 1915 Harley-Davidson board track racer. We measured the capacity of the long narrow tanks, during installation. They come in at exactly 2 gallons–not bad. On the other-hand not comfortable touring levels. Then it dawned on me in my dizzy state. Mike Pullin, the man who created the Run for Breath, as a tribute to his son Justin and Asthma Charities, builds a cool custom/vintage oil tank using antique fire extinguisher bodies. I gave him a call

Here's an original from the Bob T. Collection.

The notion was to build and mount a back-up or reserve tank on the handlebars in keeping with the Prestone acetylene headlight tanks from used from 1910 until the '20s. Harleys didn't discover the use of electric lights until 1916. Before, they had carbide chips, systems like coal miners had on their helmets. Carbide chips became carbide generators and were followed in 1910 or '11 by pressurized acetylene tanks, similar to welding. A small hose fed two nozzles inside the headlight case. The rider had to open the face of the headlight, turn the nozzles on, until he heard the hiss of gas or smelled it, and then physically light the flame to create the light reflecting off the mirror in the back for forward illumination. I asked antique bike expert, Don Whalen of Sierra Madre Motorcycle Company, if these systems worked worth a hill of beans. “It was best to plan rides around full moons,” Don said.

So the notion flourished. I could back up my narrow tank fuel capacity by adding a fire extinguisher full of fuel on the handlebars, and Mike was the master. He makes these generally for chopper riders looking for a cool oil bag. If you happen to have a vintage fire bottle hanging around, send it to Mike. He'll build a vertical or horizontal oil tank out of it, or you can buy bungs from the Bung King, Todd's Cycle, or The Parts Dude and make the bastard your-self. Here's where Mike, the Stealth Man takes over:

The Fire Extinguisher master, Mike Pullin.

The first step in fabricating the tank was ordering the parts. I ordered all the parts from “The Parts Dude.” The extinguisher itself came from a local hardware store.

Then Chopper John and I had some fun and emptied the contents of the tank and then cleaned the inside with water.

The next step included removing the handle.

Then we measured for the center of the tank, where the filler cap would be located. Then we decided where we would position the petcock. This is key, depending on the bars.

After this was done, we proceeded to drill and cut the holes for the filler cap bung and the petcock bung. I ended up using ¼-inch pipe thread petcock bung.

Once this was done, we welded the filler cap bung and the petcock bung in place.

We ground all the welds and checked for leaks.

petcock bung welded in place.

Chopper John and myself had a great time making the tank. It was the first time we had teamed up on a project since Stealth Bike Works closed. I don't know if I was the first to use fire extinguishers for tanks of any sort, but I know I was the first around the South Carolina area!

The tank is finished. Came out cool! All you have to do is seal where the handle threads are, with Teflon tape or Teflon paste. You may want to have the tank sealed or use that Kreem stuff. I really don't like the Kreem stuff. I used to go to a radiator shop to have it sealed but they closed. I am sure you have people who can do that.

There you have it. We already found a petcock and I'm working on handle/valve end. As it turned out, the vintage jobs from the '20 had pressure gauges, so the rider knew how much acetylene was left for the night ride home. Since this fire extinguisher came equipped with a pressure gauge, we are going to attempt to keep it. Then I need to create a steel cradle and weld it to the bars.

Next, you'll see us mount the vintage Sportster Speedo and I'm going to pick up the Black Bike Wheels next week and run a manual cable drive off the rear wheel with LA Chop Rod bungs.

Just when we were confident that the fuel capacity neared 3 gallons, we discovered a handling glitch. The fork stops were under the front of the gas tank. We couldn't live with it. The new narrow tapered leg Paughco springer would smack the tank and hinder turning. So next, we'll slice the front of the tank, decrease fuel capacity a tad, but enhance turning. Check back in a couple of weeks for more major renovations, if I don't stumble and fall off a cliff.

By Robin Technologies | February 21, 2024

How do you feel about your computer? I could easily take my old .357 Smith and Wesson revolver and blow this sonuvabitch into the briny harbor Pacific waters. I'd set the smoking gun down, go find a job driving a trash truck, and be able to hang out with the bros and drink beer until my kidneys failed, then you could toss my carcass into the Pacific along with my IMac. Life is nuts.

Ah, but the 5-Ball Factory Racer is coming right along. I hauled it down to Chica's for rear fender fitment, never thinking about the front fender. Should I? Chica makes his own wide ribbed fenders 5 and 6 inches wide. They're available for old tall 16-inch wheels and 18-inch wheels for an easy fitment to the tires. On my way south of Long Beach, California, I swung into Todd's Cycle. He was jammed with work. It's odd in this dour economy to see shops cookin'. Chica also was hustling to fill wheel orders, work on vintage bikes, and rebuild engines. I stopped in another shop on the edge of Long Beach, Richard Graves's car restoration facility. Damn, he does sharp work. He was working on a '50s Ariel square four.

Graves was also jammed with work, so the world ain't all doom and gloom. We just gotta provide a valuable service and be honorable businessmen, and we'll survive, goddamnit. Like Dave Rash, of D&D Exhaust says, “Motorcycles are mechanical Valiums. The world can go to shit, and the brothers take care of their motorcycles.”

I like that notion. Chica marked my fender for stretching since his fender wouldn't wrap about a knockout Black Bike 23-inch wheel with an Avon Tyre. He indicated where the stretching would take place every 4-5 inches with a felt pen, then went to his machine. “You need to stretch it the same amount,” Chica explained, “and stagger the stretching maneuvers to prevent the fender from warping or twisting.”

I asked Chica if his fenders needed additional support where the fender rails would be attached. He pointed out that the extreme contours and the ribs added extra structural strength. But he did recommend two fender straps over the frame cross-member.

The master checking the fitment.

That did it, and Jeremiah and I loaded up the Racer for the return trip to the Bikernet Interplanetary Headquarters deep in the Wilmington ghetto. I started to work on the rear fender installation immediately. I bobbed it about 4 inches, but was grabbed by the rear wheel adjustment designed by Rick Krost of U.S. Choppers and manufactured by Paughco.

Chica with the finished fender.

It's interesting, and I'm still getting the quirky hang of it. It automatically adjusts the ¾-inch axle back and forth, and up and down about ¾ inch. That element makes mounting the rear fender even more interesting. I was forced to don my patience- and-remain-flexible hat. Who knows if it's right, but I tried to work in several fender fluctuation means, so I could adjust it if necessary.

The fender was mounted with a single bolt at the bottom behind the battery case. Then, with the fender spaced evenly from the tire throughout the complete radius, I marked drilling holes for the fender straps. I drilled the holes, and the gods of stainless steel blessed my ass that day with a keen sense of accuracy. The holes and the fender straps lined up. I had to keep an eye on the axle adjustment, or the wheel was cocked right or left in the frame. “Ya gotta watch for the sweet spot,” Rick Krost said. I called him in the middle of the night to quiz him about wheel adjustment and alignment.

I also needed to make a spanner wrench for his axle adjusters. I was in a hurry one night and built a crappy one with some strange punched out flat open-end wrenches. I just heated, bent the tangs, and ground it to fit. It was sloppy, and ultimately, I built another one with brazed ¼-20 bolts to another wrench. It fits much better.

I also attached the Pauchco toolbox strap to the chain side of the bike, since the pipes would interfere on the right. It worked out perfectly for an additional installment point for the chain guard.

I wonder how long this will last on the way to Sturgis?

Click on the banner to reach Chica directly.

Next midnight run in the shop included grappling with mounting the Crime Scene taillight. It's a cool bastard, but I didn't have anything to mount it with. I dug through old boxes of parts, stock license plate rings, mounts, you name it, until I found an old rubber mount for license plate holders. It was already drilled for my three-point mounting taillight triangle. I found a thick license plate backing plate and went to work.

I drilled it to catch two of the Crime Scene holes and held the taillight over the license plate. I thought I had it made. I drilled the fender so the lip of the license plate will hang just slightly over it, for a proper, readable angle. Not sure I was successful. We'll see the first time I'm pulled over for speeding in Wyoming.

The one item I missed was the spacing for the bonaroo cool license plate ring. I'm not sure I didn't drill the holes too far into the plate, but I was thinking about strength and not bling. From that point, I moved to making fender rails. I can't do anything status quo. So I drilled corner holes in the backing plate, machined more brass, cloverleaf stock with 5/16 coarse threads and bent tabs and mounted them to the frame. Sorta crazy, but actually strong.

Evan at Power Plant Motorcycles on Melrose in Hollywood coached me on cutting threads in brass. “You need deep thick threads, so don't cut fine threads in brass,” Evan said. “It's soft.”

He also showed me a trick on his new antique lathe for centering cutting bits, which I'll never forget. I'll demonstrate in another tech in the near future. His shop was also busy, when I last stopped in. He builds vintage bobbers with very cool hand- made components. No CNC billet shit for Evan. Watch for his Chopper Challenge feature bike to show up on the pages of Cycle Source.

We generally use BDL primary systems. They now own GMA brake company.

GMA Caliper and springer bracket on the left.

The guys at BDL helped with a super deal on a GMA front brake caliper, bracket, and hand lever. Unfortunately, they only make a springer bracket for the right side, so I modified for the left and built my linkage. Dealing with a narrow Paughco Springer and a front brake is a challenge to fit everything and center the caliper over the rotor. I still need to machine an axle spacer. I also need to deal with this billet bracket. I'm looking for some super cool art deco piece to bolt up front, like a hood ornament from an old Packard.

Handmade Bikernet front brake linkage. It works–amazing.

I had to deal with the suicide clutch situation. I had a vintage H-D rocker clutch system, minus the linkage and spring. I made the linkage with a spare Paughco toolbox-mounting bracket. Then while digging around, I discovered what I thought was a regulator mounting bracket. It would work perfectly for the regulator and had the space, and holes drilled for a clutch cable bracket. I went to work digging around for the perfect cable guide.

The Paughco bracket precision welded and filed to fit the stock rocker clutch.

Highly effective custom clutch cable guide–we hope.

About this time, the Laughlin River Run surfaced and I rode my King into the desert. Two weeks later, I was called to duty on my Sturgis Shovelhead chopper to ride back into the desert to Cottonwood, Arizona for the Smoke Out. On the way I helped a couple broke down in the desert with a wiring problem. As we tinkered with his rigid Sportster, fulla devil tails welded everywhere like handles on wrought-iron furniture, I noticed his suicide clutch set up and his linkage and it gave me some good notions for a cable pinching system.

Iraqi veteran broke down on his way to the Smoke Out in Cottonwood, Arizona.

Cottonwood show bike.

One pinstriper and not enough women. We peeled out.

The Sturgis Chop at home in the desert outside Prescott Valley.

Between Laughlin and Cottonwood, I finally rolled around to cutting the front of the tanks to make room for fork stops with the Paughco narrow springer. As it stood the springer stops would smack the Factory Racer tanks, and my turning radius was shot. I went to work with a Makita cut- off saw and a plasma cutter to slice a new piece of 14-or 16-gauge steel for the replacement. The tanks were painted and that fucked with my MIG welding. Always clear the paint away from the welding area. The smoke from the heated paint messes with the pure oxygen and gas required for proper penetration. I'll work on that more with the next tank.

I'll bring you more shots of the completed tanks in the next chapter.

I'm getting close to making some final welds, while praying that a TIG welder will wander into my shop. But first, I needed to drop in the Baker N1 drum for 5-speeds. This is the simplest modification on earth. It's so easy even I could do it, amazing. These N1 drums… well I'll let Trish Horstman and James Simonelli tell you the facts:

This is the 5-Speed Baker N-1 drum for jockey-shift nuts or racing applications like the Bikernet Assalt Weapan.

Five years ago we developed the N1 drum for drag racers and street racerswho used our 6-speed overdrive. The N1 shift pattern (Neutral-1-2-3-4-5-6) wasdesigned to prevent false neutrals during aggressive 1-2 upshifts by positioningneutral under 1st.

The jockey shift/foot clutch crowd soon discovered the benefitsof the N1 pattern. The big lever ratio of a jockey shift lever desensitizes the feelof the detents in the transmission such that finding neutral is a crapshoot withbad odds. With neutral on bottom (or all the way forward), the jockey shifter canmindlessly tap all the way down to neutral thus allowing him to put both feet onthe ground as he rolls up to the stop light.

Here's the 6-Speed Baker N-1 drum.
Today, a whole new crowd is realizing the benefits of the N1 pattern. Pingel’selectric shifter is slicker-than-snot and appeals to racers as well as those withrestricted movement in their left foot and left hand. Utilizing an N1 drum inconjunction with Pingel’s electric shifter makes finding neutral (with the solenoid)seamless, and yields a solenoid-actuated shift system that almost makes footshifting obsolete.

Here's the JIMS stock drum still in place.
PN DESCRIPTION FITMENT
5-6QT-A N1 drum & pillow block assembly, 6-speed BAKER 6-spd overdrive except*
5-6QT-A1 N1 drum & pillow block assembly, 6-speed *Old 6-into-4 (S&S case) &Frankentranny
124-OD6RN1-A N1 drum & pillow block assembly, 6-speed RSD right-side Drive 6-speed, 2ndgeneration
124-DD6N1 N1 drum & pillow block assembly, DD6 DD6, all
2-5R-N1 N1 drum & pillow block assembly, 5-speed Single pole neutral switch 5-spds
2-5RL-N1 N1 drum & pillow block assembly, 5-speed Double pole neutral switch 5-spds

Here's the N1 next to the stock drum.

FEATURES/NOTES:
– N1 shift system option available at no additional cost with purchase of a complete transmissionor builder’s kit
– 5-speed N1 shift systems fit H-D 5-speeds and BAKER 5-speeds
– For aggressive shifting we also recommend the use of our anti-overshift ratchet pawl, PN555-56A for 5-speeds through 1999 and 555-56L for 5-speeds 2000-up. For example, this pawlmechanically prevents an unintended 1-3 up shift during an intended 1-2 upshift

Okay, so I popped off the ¼-20 Allens off the top of the tranny cap. Since, within five fasteners there were three sizes, I placed them neatly in the battery pan to prevent mixing up the formula. The lid came right off.

Then the four 7/16 hex heads need to be removed and the drum and pillow blocks came off as a single unit. Don't forget to lift the shifting arm, and keep it up when you replace the drum.

Shifting forks missing their drum.

It might feel slightly snug to remove since there are guide inserts pressed into the case to hold the drum perfectly aligned. I studied the drum as I removed it and set it in exactly the same position on the bench to insure I put the new N1 drum back exactly the same way.

Shifting hook back in place.

I told myself the old mechanic's rule as I replaced the drum and aligned the shifting forks: Don't force anything, jackass. I carefully aligned the shifting forks, then made sure the pillow blocks fit comfortable over the inserts before rolling the fasteners back into place and torquing them to 130 inch pound of torque or 10.8 foot pounds.

High security at the Bikernet Headquarters–that's Cash.

I smeared a dab of tranny oil on the lip of the transmission lid and slipped it into place, then tightened the fasteners to 130-inch pounds of torque. Oh, I forgot. I replaced the standard vent with something brass, mechanical, and vintage. What the hell. I'm going for that vintage appearance.

The new Bandit's Cantina, outside Salome, Arizona. Whatta ya tink?

That's it for this installment. Next, I will install an Exile sprotor rear brake and 48-tooth sprocket. I'll finish all my welds, strip her down, and head to powder coating and paint. I have the color scheme down. It's going to be wild. I've also promised not to hit any more events between now and Sturgis for maximum shop time. We'll see if I run out of whiskey and women or not. Hang on.

All new, lavish Bikernet Desert Headquarters in 74 Palms, California. Don't tell the Chop N Grind gang. We're moving into their territory.

Speaking of Chop N Grind Racing team, they're on the outside. Dr. Hamster in the center.

By Robin Technologies | February 21, 2024

Last episode I was hit hard with life's bullshit obstacles to freedom and creative expression, but that's how it goes. I generally build at least one bike a year and each one represents a milestone of sorts. Or each one represents another year in the life and times of Bandit. I'm not unique. This notion applies to everyone and every project from building a new home, to building a boat or finishing a book. We're so damn lucky to have the freedom and resources to accomplish our goals, small and large. As you sit back and relish any accomplishment, you know it represents a moment in time–hopefully a good time.

I mention a couple of chapters ago, an illustrator, who has graced Bikernet with his presence, Dick Allen. That name is so revered in the dark halls of the old school biker world. Dick Allen was one of the first and foremost backyard mechanical engineers of the '70s. He designed on of the most sought-after springers, helped kick off belt drives and several Southbay innovations. But another Dick Allen surfaced recently into the grease-stained halls of Bikernet, with illustrations that captured the excitement and action of our Bonneville efforts and now the first 5-Ball Factory Racer.

It's as if he crawled into the shop after the lights are turned off and the dogs are sleeping. He sketched the roller perched on the lift, sniffed the rags for clues to the essence of the build, and the open road dreams behind the late night efforts. Then he captured the action and desires with pen and ink. I asked him recently to send me a bio, because I sensed a long illustration career. Here was his response:

That's very kind of you to offer to runmy bio but honestly it makes me wantto take a nap just thinking about it.How about a pic instead of my stumppulling flathead single '40 Ariel? Wewere born in the same year and havebeen working together for about fifteenyears to keep my bank account drained.As the bike approaches completion itappears to be getting younger and youngerwhile I am definitely getting older and older!

Here's an example from my sketchbook of life observedduring our recent trip to Oaxaca.

Bitchin' segments from D&D, but only 1.5 inches in diameter. We stuck with 1 ¾ inch stock components.

So, recently we tore the March page out of the Calendar and flew into April. A running Racer by the end of April–for the Smoke Out in May, is the goal. The pipes were a major obstacle, yet Jesse James, Illusion Cycles, and Roland Sands inspired me.

I made an adjustable bracket for the muffler, so it could be bolted on in several position, until I knew what the fuck I was doing.

I spotted a tight shotgun system on one of Rusty Coones' Dyna Glide custom built in his Illusions shop. That's the direction I wanted to go for the racer look, not along the bottom of the frame in stock 1915 fashion. The muffler on Rusty's bike was a short/short Supertrapp developed with an exhaust guiding cone built by the Illusion team. The two-into-one pipe was designed at WCC, but I decided to give my own spin to the action for the Crazy Horse 100-inch engine.

It's a puzzle.

I also recently featured a bike built by Roland Sands with his own shotgun Vance and Hines system. Check it out. It also has a very short muffler system, but I had an all-stainless Scorpion sport bike muffler from the mad designer John reed.

A level always helps with a base, but make sure the bike is leveled first.

With Roland's design inspiration, I went to work. I had to make the system run tight to the bike, so ultimately I could install a Baker Drive kicker system to the JIMS 5-speed transmission. It had to run high enough not to mess with the rear axle and not too high for leg burning threats. I had one break; the Crazy Horse engine was designed with the intake manifold running out the left side of the engine. That allowed me to manufacture pipes as high as I wanted–watch the legs, damnit.

My second bracket to the transmission.

Making pipes is a tricky business. This system is teamed with lots of exhaust manufacturers, so I initiated a phone conference with D&D, and they supplied me with various ends and bends to give me a head start. Vance and Hines and WCC were involved with the design and inspirational aspects, and the Boys from Bassani stopped over for lunch and brought a hand full of bends and a chunk of muffler tubing for my speedometer mounts, a very diverse team. Plus nowadays, when you mess with pipes, the diameter fluctuates from below stock diameters to over 2-inch Bonneville racing exhaust performance demands. I took a day dealing with various sizes and ultimately decided on a 1 ¾-inch system to the two-inch muffler opening.

Getting close.

Then I had one of those calm and serene days in the shop–everything fit. It's a Zen thing, when the stars are aligned, and I drank just the correct carefully measured amount of Jack Daniels the night before. For some strange, inexplicable reason, I was tranquil with the dogs wrestling at my feet. The R&B Sirius station shop background music didn't spin any Michael Jackson tunes, and only the 4-tops and Jerry Butler lured me into a false sense of mechanical confidence. I patiently cut, ground chunks of pipes and brackets, then tacked them into place.

In this case, I didn't struggle to make the headers the same length. It will be fast without that, but they're not designed for Bonneville.

I've been making exhaust systems for about six or eight years, and each year I learn. For instance, I was through the roof to find Hooker Header alignment sleeves, only to discover they hinder performance. That meant I had to move more slowly, meticulously and make sure each segment fit perfectly. I also learned that exhaust wrap can also hinder ultimate performance, by being a heat transmitting barrier. Plus I'm still working on my MIG, pipe-segment welding skills. This year I'm going to clamp a bunch of pipe chunks together and weld them at different feed speeds and electrical settings. I'm determined to nail it down.

The first cut and grinding action.

Next, I moved onto a dash plate, cut with a plasma cutter out of a chunk of 16 or 14 gauge sheet metal. My crazy thought was to install the Phil's Speed Shop ignition system onto this plate with the Bikers' Choice Speedometer. In 1915, Speedometers and the constant loss oil pumps were mounted to the top of the tanks, right out in the open, so I decided to follow suit.

The speedo mounting tube from Bassani.

I cut that strap in two and welded the pre-drilled tabs to the inside of the speedo tube for mounting to the studs.

Bassini supplied the tubing for the Speedo, but I needed to be reduced the diameter a 1/2 -inch. I cut it with the Makita and pinched it down until the speedo fit in, and I could still wrap it with something to prevent vibration from beating it to death on the roads to the Badlands.

Phil's Speed Shop supplied me with a template so I could mark the holes and weld in studs to hold the ignition system down. It housed, circuit breakers, ignition switch, starter button, starter relay, neutral light and high/low beam switch.

Mechanical speedo drive running off the rear wheel. Who knows what my speed ratio will be with the 23-inch Black Bike Wheels?

Gard's cable guide, from LA Chop Rods, tacked into place–very cool.

I ran the Biker's Choice speedo cable and drive off the rear wheel in 1915 fashion, but with late model components. I used LA Chop Rods cable guides and grommets tacked to the frame. I played with the plate and position for hours and hopefully got it right. I also cut a notch in the Bassani Speedo mount so I can hopefully reach the trip gauge adjuster. It's going to knat's ass close. In each perplexing case, I shot for functioning symmetrical positions, that don't interfere with other components, like turning the bars.

Next, I had the spare gas tank ready to rock, but needed to mount it above the bars. Talk about angst, I looked around for something to use for mounting, like other fire extinguisher clamps, then it dawned on me to use the an old set of handlebar risers, upside down. I found an old set of Jammer risers and bolted them to the bars between the DBBP bronze risers, so far so good. Then I cut them, estimating the height needed to clear the bars, but I was wrong. What happened with harbinger to my Zen aura?

Here's a shot of those beautiful risers cut too short–whatta bitch.

I don't know about other crazed builders, but often a glitch turns into an opportunity. I turned to my lathe to cut a couple of extensions. They widened the base for greater strength. I reached out to NICK Trumbo at Bassini exhaust for a couple of straps. My notion was to weld the brackets to the straps, so if something went wrong, it wouldn't crack the tank and create a dangerous gas leak. I've had my problems with gas leaks in the past.

There you have it. Next, we'll mount the fantastic Black Bike Wheels (Avon Tyres), with GMA brakes from BDL, slice the Tanks for fork stops and Chica is going to build a Factory Racer ribbed fender. Rock and roll.

How's this for a real factory racer from 1926.

Read More →

5-Ball Factory Racer, Part 9 Final Assembly

By Robin Technologies | February 21, 2024

Every custom motorcycle build is an adventure. It takes me from one crazed time in my wild life to another. Fortunately, I'm not spilling my guts about another woman I lost during a knuckle-busting build. But this build did represent turning points. I'm about to step off into my 62nd year and sign up for Social Security. It also represented our stinky economy, and for the first time I pulled the plug on riding this bike to Sturgis.

Imagine for a second, the middle of July. Days were long and hot, and the Bikernet shop boiled with activity. The Sturgis deadline was fast approaching. I needed to plan stops, hotels, food funds and a place to stay in the Badlands. Then suddenly we were forced to shift gears. Actually, we took the planning process out of gear. One day, I scrambled for the finish line; the next I coasted. I couldn't find the stress switch for a week and relieve the pressure.

Most of my parts were baking in the Tony Pisano, Worco powder-coating ovens. It took me a week to realize the Sturgis Rally would survive without me, and I could relax. I was no longer under the gun to finish this build and risk my life riding an untested motorcycle halfway across the nation. Then it dawned on my feeble brain. I had a terrific opportunity to finish this bike and test it for a year before riding into the Mojave Desert and across several Indian reservations. Plus, I could kick back and enjoy the summer, pressure- free. I bought an ice-cold six-pack of Coronas, a couple of fresh limes and grabbed a sun tan. Not bad.

I didn't slip the sheet under the frame for the photo. I did it to protect the powder on the bottom of the frame.
Tony is a pro powder-coater of the finest order and knows what it takes to tape off motor mounting plates and plug threaded holes. He saved long days under a grinding wheel. The powder work came out supreme. This year I tried something new. I powdered even the sheet metal, then asked a pro to paint panels on the tank and a flat black stripe down the Chica rear fender. He handled that aspect in a flash. Then I turned the job over to George the Wild Brush for the 5-Ball Racing logo on the tanks and pin-striping.

George drives around Los Angeles in an old Toyota truck with a camper shell, the home of paint headquarters. He folds down the tailgate, uncovers his vast, dripping assortment of paint and goes to work. He's old school to the bone. He pinstriped the giants' drag race funny cars in the '70s.
Here's where my fuck-ups began to surface. After the tanks were powder-coated, I decided to test them for leaks. I had planned to coat them with a sealer, and received Kreem tank sealer from Bikers Choice.
Here's the quandary: You can't seal tanks and then have them powder-coated. It might all go to hell in 400 degree ovens. So I held off. Then I decided to hit a local radiator shop for the test. We discovered one small leak where I welded in a rubber-mounting bung in the bottom. I ground it clear of paint and re-welded it. No problem. The painter touched it up for me. It was on the bottom of the tank and I was good to go. I thought.

Next blunder: Instead of pressure-testing my handmade exhaust system, I decided to try another sealant available from Kreem and Bikers Choice. It's blue madness and can only be used on new pipes. I followed the directions, but it's a messy operation, and of course, I attempted this process for the first time, after I painted the pipes. What did I learn from these hiccups? Test tanks and pipes before you coat them with anything, period.

The first item to be installed was the new Paughco narrow, taper-legged springer front end. It slid right into place. If only I had four arms when I'm working in the shop alone. The front end already had the 23-inch Black Bike Wheel installed with a special Avon Tyre. I just needed to grapple with the front end, fasteners, bearings and top crown. No problem. I also installed the GMA front brake bracket and spaced the front wheel for the 14th time. It's a tight fit, and I need something art deco to mount on the front of the bracket. GMA, now owned by BDL, only builds a springer front brake bracket for the right side. I was forced to flip this one over. I could have machined the leading lip off, but I decided it could be used for some unique reflector, or quirky hood ornament. We'll see.

When I disassembled the bike, I carefully collected all the parts on this table. I also zip-locked all my fasteners and wrote their job descriptions on the back of each card. That was seriously helpful during assembly. Next, I dropped the Crazy Horse 100-inch engine in the Paughco frame, with the JIM's transmission and the Baker kicker system installed. Since the chain ran against a portion of the frame, I ordered a ½-inch 24-tooth tranny sprocket from JIMS and installed it with this special JIMS nut, designed with a built-in locking device. Unfortunately, no matter what I did, the holes wouldn't line up, so I safety wired the nut to the sprocket to prevent it from backing out.

Then I faced one of the toughest assembly jobs, installing the Spyke alternator stator plug in the right engine case. It's easy and difficult at the same time. This time, I smeared the tunnel and the plug with Never Seize and tried to push the plug through the case tunnel. I also carefully backed out the set-screw and scraped any burrs of the case edges. That didn't help, but I ultimately wrestled it into place. I'm always careful of electrical connections, wiring, proper grounds, etc. Nothing leaves us alongside the road more often than electrical problems. So, I don't like pushing and prodding charging components.

Once the stator was in place, I used self-locking fasteners from Harley-Davidson to fasten it down. Spyke is careful to supply all the proper assembly instructions, but it's always tough with aftermarket engines. Because it was somewhat of a guessing game, I installed the Spyke rotor a couple of times to make sure all the clearances were proper. Then I could move onto driveline alignment and the installation of the BDL narrow enclosed belt drive system.

When you order a BDL belt drive there's a series of offsets available. Make sure you order the correct one.

I've worked with BDL components for at least 15 years. They are solid as a rock. I used the inner primary to pull the engine and transmission into alignment. I left both major components loose in the frame until I pulled it up tight with the inner primary. Don't forget the John Reed Code. I use Never Seize on all bolts rolling into soft aluminum. John warned about damaging porous aluminum threads by running hardened steel against them over and over. Never Seize allows them to glide in and out of the cases without stress or abrasion.
With the driveline aligned, I tightened down the rear engine mounts and then checked the front ones for gaps. I shimmed the front motor mount perfectly, then tightened it down.

The trans in this position seems odd, kicked up in the front, but installing these shims, makes the whole driveline run cleaner and reduces wear and tear. Phil Ross, who passed the other day, explained all of this to me in the mid '70s when he helped me install my first SuperMax belt drive.
Next, I focused on the transmission. The Paughco mounting plate was tight and the JIMS trans case was fine in the rear, but slightly elevated in the front. I dug around until I found the correct shim washers and drove them under the trans and around the front tranny studs. It's key to go through these motions for proper alignment and to save problems with the belt. It's surprising how easy the BDL system slips together if the driveline is aligned.

That mainshaft thread (in the center of the clutch) has left-handed threads.

The engine nut has standard threads. There's on thing to look out for. Sometimes the nut runs out of threads before it's tight. Make sure to check it, or everything runs loose.
I followed the BDL instructions and bolted the engine shaft insert to the pulley then drove in the alignment pins and tightened down the Allen fasteners. I pulled the pressure plate pins out of the clutch and removed the clutch plates. With the clutch hub and the engine pulley holding the belt, I carefully slipped them on simultaneously. I attached the left-handed clutch nut and tightened it with an impact gun. I did the same with the engine main shaft nut. I turned over the engine and checked belt alignment and pulley alignment. I spaced out the front pulley slightly with a shim and was good to go.

BDL TECHNICIAN NOTE:I received a call from BDL, “You fucked up, Bandit,” Dan said. He pointed out how I didn't mention using Loctite on the transmission mainshaft splines when I installed the clutch basket. “That's more important than many folks realize,” he said. Vibration from the spines can tear up the basket splines and ultimately the clutch plates.
I generally don't Loctite the mainshaft splines until the bike is tried and true, encase I need to remove the clutch. “Harbor Freight sells a cheap vintage steering wheel puller,” Dan said. “They work like a champ for pulling BDL clutches. If a hub is too tight a little heat does the trick, melts the Loctite.”

It's the gap between the pinion gear and the ring gear that causes concern.
With the clutch back in place and all the elements tightened down I installed the Spyke starter and pinion shaft. Giggie, who just passed away the other day, told me years ago, how to check the spacing. To keep the starter strong and not fuck with the ring gear, the starter gear should rest about 0.150 back from the ring gear. Too close and it doesn't have the space to begin turning and jams against the ring gear. Too far receded and it won't make good solid teeth contact.

With the primary almost buttoned up, I moved to the LA Chop Rods new-fangled internal throttle installation. Internal throttles are cool but precarious. If a bike stumbles and falls over, the first damage is generally to the bars. It's easy to replace an external throttle or a grip. But what the hell. We're not building a bike to fall down.

About this time, the Sturgis event hit the summer calendar, and folks arrived from Australia for the ride. Doc from Heavy Duty Magazine, in Australia, picked up a Victory for the run. Nicole Brosing, an Australian tattoo artist, flew to the coast, rented the same Road King she rode last year, grabbed her girlfriend and split north to San Francisco then east to the Badlands.

Gard, of LA Chop Rods, designed his sharp internal throttle system with dual bearings for a smooth roll-on. He also designed it to be easy to measure and install.

See the brass sleeve? It makes clamping more secure and won't damage the actual cable. I have a distinct tendency to damage everything.
I wrenched in the shop, drank Coronas, smiled and caught a sun tan. Gard Hollinger from LA Chop rods slapped extra engineering into his internal throttle system. His instructions were detailed, but I was still nervous as I attempted to determine the proper length. It's always a sharp notion to take the bike off the lift so the bars can rotate for testing the overall length. It's actually a breeze to install, although I honed out the bars slightly, for an easy slip. Gard devised the cable lock-down with a brass sleeve to prevent damage to the internal cable and afford a solid grip for the set screw. This throttle, with extra bearings, is smooth as silk.

Then I turned to the classic spark plug wires from Low Brow. This is a cool system and adds class to any ride. They come in a kit form with all the elements needed, except a roll of solder, flux, and a gun. It was a simple operation, but I actually mounted the coil a tad on the tight side to the underside of the tank. Fortunately it all fit. Make sure to slip the boots onto the wires before you solder the brass fittings into place. Lowbrow attaches the other ends before shipment.

I simply attached the spark plug wire to the spark plugs, ran the lines out of harm's way to the coil, added an inch for safety, cut the wires, trimmed them back for soldering, and crimped and soldered the fittings into place. Frank Kaisler told me to make sure to wipe all the flux off after soldering. So I did as Commander Kaisler instructed. He uses alcohol or solvent to clean the area, preventing future corrosion.

I took a day off to help Nyla's brother, Brad, build some diesel motor mounts for their 32-foot Cho Lee motor sailing vessel. They were smack in the middle of a complete restoration. It's a beautiful boat. I've sailed it to Catalina Island several times, when it belonged to an old friend of mine. Another deadline loomed. Less than a week away, the Easyriders Bike Show would rock the Broken Spoke Saloon in Sturgis. Bikernet sponsors the Panhead Class each year and I needed to create the trophy. Panhead Billy won the award. When I can reach him, we will feature his classic rat pan.

Custom finish handled by Jim Murillo, with the Rollin Sixes ultimate green flake.

Click on this image to see Phil's product line.
I shifted to the wiring. I used Phil's Speed Shop wiring system. It's designed for lots of custom applications and makes wiring a breeze. He includes instructions and a wiring diagram. The billet chromed box includes the ignition switch, the high-low beam switch, circuit breakers, starter relay, neutral light and starter button. I just ran the wires, used my Frank Kaisler soldering tool and ran the wires through the old H-D soaked canvas loom. I know that's not the correct term for it, but it's a close description.

I made two of these special tools, one wide and one narrow, for tight spots.
I ran into one problem that held me up for weeks. I like the CrazyHorse bottle cap engines. They offer three ignition alternatives. First, the original Thunderheart unit, an adjustable timing Thunderheart, and finally a cone motor system. Unfortunately, they don't tell you enough about the stock system. I thought it was like a Compu-Fire system in the cone. It's a one piece unit. I reached out to other Crazy Horse engine builders who told me I needed a Thunderheart ignition module. So, I ordered the system from Thunderheart, but when it arrived it didn't jive with any wiring diagram I received from Thunderheart or Crazy Horse. It was a riot. Every time I received a wiring diagram or a box from Thunderheart, I thought I was good to go. Then some goddamn thing wouldn’t match, and everyone had split to the Badlands. I paced the garage waiting for answers.

The Thunderheart tech guru sobered up after a week in the Broken Spoke swimming pool, doing belly shots with the lovely waitresses. He dropped me a simple e-mail: “There's only three wires goddamnit, black for ground, red for ignition and green to the coil. Go for a ride.”
That solved that mysterious issue and I moved on. Three more puzzling obstacles surfaced. I cleaned the Paughco oil tank with solvent and small nuts and bolts. I counted the fasteners before I slipped them into the tank. It was sorta rusty, and I didn't want to roll without cleaning it. I poured a cup of oil in it and flushed it out. I hooked up the oil lines, and Crazy Horse sent me very specific instructions, but this will blow your mind. I couldn't figure out venting. I'll get back to that.
I hooked up my gas lines. I filled the tanks and one leaked. I threatened to fire myself on the spot and another challenge surfaced. The pinhole at the front of the tank, where I cut away a section to allow for fork stops, stuck out like a sore thumb. It was obvious, but we didn't spot it during testing. I called Jim Murillo, a professional painter and cried for assistance.
“Don't use Kreem, it peels,” he said. “Use Casewell two-part Phenol Lovolac System.”
I ordered some and their customer service was supreme for a small $36 order. Some companies get it, when it comes to taking care of customers. This is where tank seals become terrifying. I needed to kick my ass into the middle of tomorrow. Make sure your tanks are sealed before any finish is applied, including powder coating. I suppose I was over confident. What the hell.

We took a break to work with Frank at Nino 925 to remake my old wheel ring. They're now for sale.
The directions called for cleaning the tanks with lacquer thinner, nuts and bolts, sand, you name it. I tried the lacquer thinner and immediately fucked with George's pinstriping. I called him, panicked and drank whiskey heavily. Fortunately a Bikernet reader shipped me a fresh bottle of Bulliet Whiskey, and Dusty, one of the 5-Ball Racing Team Salt Flat members, hand-stripped several pounds of walnuts and shipped them out.

Incredible. I let the tank dry thoroughly, made up a small portion of the Casewell sealrant and poured it into the tank. I knew where the hole was, and fortunately it rested in an easy-to-reach corner. I tilted the tank in the sun and returned to the whiskey. George saved my ass once more.
With the tanks fixed and returned to the bike, all was well, and I put a key to the Phil's ignition switch for the first time. Here's another quirk. Crazy Horse doesn't tell you how to time your new 100-inch engine. It times itself. The bike didn't whine, growl, spit or cough. It fired immediately to life and purred. I checked the oil pressure, perfect. Then I unscrewed the cap off the oil bag to make sure the lubricant returned to the oil bag properly. Yep, it was returning, but the cap popped off into my hand. I wondered about venting. Everything was fine except for pressure in the oil bag.

Again, I started a research project. The Crazy Horse installation material didn't mention a crankcase vent and I searched the engine. There are two 3/8-inch spigots between the heads, as if for a cross-over oil line. As it turns out they are designed as vents. I found out from Dar at Brass Balls that they just run a line under their gas tanks. I pulled one end, no oil flow. It had to be the vent, so I improvised and used another old machinery oil fitting to hold a screen to prevent crap from strolling back into the precious engine.

Duane is a helluva good guy, hardworking and talented. In the past he helped with seats for our Bonneville bike, but this one didn't work.
That solved that issue. I was ready to rock, but my seat hadn't arrived from Duane Ballard. It was a wild old sprung BMW seat he scored. When it finally arrived, it didn't fit. It was too high and too far back. I was faced with another quandary. If I moved the bars, I could barely place my boots on the footboards. I scratched my beard, looked at the box of walnuts, and then it dawned on me. Glenn Priddle, a leather seat master, who studied under classic saddle makers, made me a seat a couple of years ago for the 10th Anniversary of Bikernet. It was a wide, classic solo seat. I dug it out, dusted it off and it fit like a glove, dropped the seat height 2 inches and move the seat position forward 3 inches. It actually fit the frame better than the old classic from Duane. I dodged another bullet.

Every year when I build a bike, my mantra includes a solid, tough, rideable, unique bike that will last. But each year the unique project throws a few curveballs. It's part of my Zen education. Life is not meant for perfection. We need challenges to test our endurance levels and help us through the tough spots, find answers or solutions and persevere. Often my predicaments are caused by a lack of experience. For instance, if I ever use a Crazy Horse engine again, I'll know all the quirks and set-up issues.

We took another break and ran out to El Mirage, with this '30s Indy Racer and Rick's most recent board track build. The frame I used on the 5-Ball Factory Racer was designed by Rick Krost, or U.S. Choppers.

Now, let's see if I can ride it for any distance. I would love to ride it to the Badlands next year or to Arizona for our Too Broke for Sturgis Run.

One of the Bikernet Security Team, Cash, the dog.
We'll see what happens next, as I take her through the Eddie Trotta break-in routine. Eddie starts a bike for the first time, let's her run and checks her over. Then he takes it out for a one-block jaunt, and checks it over again. Then he ventures forth for one mile and returns for another inspection, then 5 miles, then 25, then 50 and she's ready for a cross-country blast. Hang on!

Now, for a real whiskey break.

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Amazing Shrunken FXR 15 Wiring Hell

By Robin Technologies | February 21, 2024

This was actually one of the easiest bikes I’ve ever wired. It’s not a bad notion to sketch out a wiring diagram with consideration for the placement of the components. Think about it long and hard, then take your time. Below this mess I ran the Hardcore Choppers basic wiring diagram and tips on wiring anything.

First, there’s the regulator that bolts over the front motormount. I use Compu-Fire regulators for reliability and they are wired not to over-work the alternator. So you plug the regulator into the case for the alternator connection, run a ground strap under the frame where the rubbermount bolts and the final hot wire to the hot side of the battery, or the hot side of the ignition switch. That wire feeds the charge back to the battery. Presto, goddamnit, the charging system is complete.

I’m lazy and want the wiring system to be as easy and component free as possible. No extra lights, no turn signals, no horns, buzzers or ringdings. I use Bob McKay’s marine ignition switches for toughness, reliability and ease of wiring. They are distributed by CCI or, if not in stock, contact Bob directly (519-935-2424).

Here’s the back of the CCI dual coil bracket originally designed by Dave Perewitz. Ultimately this bracket housed the ignition switch, the choke arm, the circuit breaker and the high/low beam switch.

I made the choke nob bracket out of a 1/16-inch plate of mild steel. Ultimately I welded on another segment on the other end for the high/low beam switch.

I like heavy duty toggle switches for durability. They’re tough, if you can hide them.

The switch is so complete so you don’t need a starter relay. All it takes is one wire to the starter, one wire from the battery and one wire to the circuit breaker. From the breaker a wire runs to the Compu-Fire single fire ignition system via the coils, one wire to the brake switch, one wire to the taillight and one wire to the highbeam switch. From the highbeam switch two wires ran to the headlight. From the Compu-Fire electronic ignition wires ran to the two Dyna Coils, front and rear and one hot wire that runs to both and the ignition circuit breaker. I ran only one 30-amp H-D circuit breaker, just a couple of inches from the ignition switch.

I apologize for not taking more shots, but when you’re concentrating on wiring, shifting focus to take notes and photographs is a bitch. Well, it’s troublesome for this bastard. I ran this loom through the frame backbone from the top motormount to battery under the seat. It held several 16 gauge wires for the brake light, taillight, then a 14 gauge wire for starter and a 12 gauge to the battery.

Since I don’t have space for idiot lights (there’s a highbeam indicator on the headlight), I need to run a oil pressure gauge on the engine.

I only use Terry Components brake cables for their service and flexibility. The trick was to find and place the ground straps. The Terry ground strap ran comfortably from the negative side of the battery to the 5/16 starter mounting bolt. That grounded it to the driveline, but I needed a ground from the tranny to the frame. I worked that out by bolting another strap to the sidemount license plate frame bracket (welded to the frame), by making sure the paint was shaved away. I also used the 1/4-20 Allen to support the taillight ground strap. Let’s see, have I forgotten anything?

Here’s the back of the Goodridge stainless brake switch junction. This allowed me to hide the brake switch under the tranny along with the brake fluid reservoir.

This shows the Compu-Fire starter solenoit where the wire was due to run from the ignition switch. The big 3/8s post was destined for the positive Terry battery cable.

Here’s the back of the taillight bracket. All wires were run carefully through protective loom or shrink-wrap.

Just before we completed wiring, Giggie, from Compu-Fire, and delivered the new Compu-Fire 53700 hot starter designed to fit any big twin H-D from’90 up. All the special hardware is included and it’s rated to 2KW and was actually shorter by .150-inch for clearance dilemmas with Softail oil cans.

The starter roller bearings are 30 percent longer and it comes with shims to allow builders to install the starter perfectly. The Air gap between the pinion gear from the starter to the ring gear on the clutch basket needs to be between .75 and .125. If it’s too short the pinion gear can’t spin before engagement and collides with the ring gear. It needs to get a tad of momentum going. On the other hand, if the distance is too great, the starter gets up to full speed and fights engagement.

Here’s an example of the starter .026 shims.

Measuring the air gap between the starter gear and the clutch ring gear.

The measurement is difficult and Giggie uses a 1/8 Allen which is .125 across the flats. The shims are .026. Even the coupler on this new Compu-Fire starter is designed for lowered bike, to duck the belt.

Oil pump relief cap removed.

The wiring was completed and we were ready to fire the beast, but first Giggie recommended that we burp the bubbles out of the engine by removing the pump relief cap and using an Allen to pull up the valve and let bubbles pass for a pure oil lubrication.

The bastard fired right up, the Mikuni gushed gas, but as soon as it fired the Mikuni float bowl settled down.

The RevTech 88 ready for the road.

We often get calls for basic wiring diagrams. Here’s one that was taken from an old Easyriders and expanded by the wizards of Hard Core Chopper Magazine in Japan.

Take your time. Keep those copper strands away from sharp edges, moving stuff (like chains) and hot items. Cover everything with shrink wrap. Use extra layers of shrink wrap for more protection and stronger connections. I like to solder connections for a solid, vibration free contact, but some prefer crimping connections to avoid wicking. Watch out. Some of the littlest, coolest switches go to shit in a week under 100 mph vibration.

The Frank Kaisler, patent pending, wire junction tool. Send $99.99 to P.O. Box 666, Hollywood, Calif. Send only rolls of quarters.

Don’t forget to work in circuit breakers and fuses. If one blows, disconnect the battery and research the problem. I like Terry battery cables for their flexibility, and they allow more amps to flow to the starter because of their low resistance.

Couple more tips: Watch out, wiring around the front-end. That sucker needs to turn. Don’t run the electrical connections too tight. If you run wires through the frame, debur the openings and use extra shrink wrap to protect fragile insulation.

Here’s a shot of deburing from our Road King tech on highbar installation.

Here’s the famous Frank Kaisler sharp edge test using tissue paper. If it snags or tears, more sanding and smoothing is required.

Bandit generally uses 16-gauge for most of the wiring, 18-gauge in the bars and 12-gauge from the battery to the ignition switch.

I called Frank Kaisler, a tech writer for decades, and before I finished reading the above he shouted across the line, “Yeah right, but you’re forgetting plenty, dipshit. Don’t forget to tell ’em about the breakers. Use a 30-amp breaker between the battery and the main electrical circuit (or the battery and the ignition switch). You can use one of the breaker lugs to attach the regulator hot line to minimize wires to the battery. Use 12 gauge wire for the main leads. Use a 15 or 20-amp breaker between the ignition switch and all the lighting connections.

“Goddamnit, you didn’t explain wicking. Solder creeps under the insulation when it flows. The wire will flex against that soldered area and may break.”

“Yeah right, after two hundred years,” I muttered

“Shut up and listen,” Frank lit another cigarette.

“Quit smoking,” I babbled over the phone.

“The way your ride,” Frank coughed, “you won’t last another week. Let’s get back to the wires. I like to remove the plastic insulation on lugs and run shrink wrap right onto connectors, for a clean, stronger lead, and damnit, use the correct connectors. Blue for 14 and 16-gauge wires and red for 18 and 20. And make sure to use the proper ring sizes for stud connections, like the battery, circuit breakers and brake switch studs. Floppy lugs make for lousy connections.”

I was beginning to lose it. We could go on all night about wiring. He muttered something about using rubber grommets with wires that must run through sheet metal and additional ground straps from the headlight to the frame to maintain a solid ground to the front end.

“Don’t forget the final show bike detail,” He said and I remembered all the rats bikes I built in the ’70s with wires running everywhere. “Run wires down the left side of the bike. The hot looking side is always the pipe side.”

“Okay goddamnit,” I said. “I’m not writing a book. Just a handful of hints.” I sensed a lecture coming from a guy who edited bike magazines for 30 years.

“Do it right, Snake,” He coughed lighting another Marlboro, “or don’t do it at all!”

“Thank you, sir,” I said and hung up. Fuckin’ guy is worse than Bandit.

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1928 Shovelhead Part IX

By Robin Technologies | February 21, 2024

It’s time to feature the 1928Shovelhead and American Iron said theywould take it on. They’re the only bookthat accepts antique bikes. I’ve writtenabout four features for them on rare, very coolhistoric models.

No the ’28 Shovel doesn’t fallinto that catagory, but what the hell, it’sgot class. We needed to complete a couple ofdetail mods before Markus Cuff would aim alense at the blue beast. We needed matchingbrake rotors and a PM front brake system. Ipulled a front rotor from the CCI catalog andcontacted Performance Machine for theappropriate front brake caliper and springerbracket.

Much of the following comes directly fromthe very complete Performance Machineinstructions. They don’t mess around.There will be no doubt about the installation ofthis unit. Let’s hit it:

Important Notice FromPerformance Machine

Before installing a caliper or rotor kit,read through these instructions completely;this will familiarize you with the way in whichthe parts fit together and the tools needed tocomplete the job.

In the course of installing these kits youwill be replacing the stock brake caliper(s)and/or rotor(s) with a high-performance brakecaliper(s) and/or rotor(s). Please pay specialattention to the section of the instructionsdealing with the centering of the caliper overthe brake rotor. Actually, I couldn’t findthis section. Generally a set of shims arepacked with calipers. Use the shims andmake sure the caliper is centered over therotor.

The brake caliper(s) used in this kit isdesigned to use DOT 5 brake fluid. Neverreuse brake fluid, don’t use brake fluidthat you are not sure is new and clean. Thisinstallation should only be attempted by amechanic with a thorough understanding ofand experience with motorcycle brakesystems.

If you plan on using the stock brakeline/hose that runs between the mastercylinder and the caliper, then you will be justswitching the line at the caliper’s banjofitting. We recommend that you do notdisconnect the line from the stock caliper untilyou have the new caliper bolted in place andare ready to bleed the brake system. This waythe brake fluid will not run completely out ofthe master cylinder before you have the newcaliper connected.

Front wheel with stock caliperremoved.

Center the motorcycle on thelift so that it will not fallwhile you are working on it.

We used a bungie cord to hold the oldcaliper out of the way.

Loosen brake line and remove the twobolts, lift the caliper up off the rotor and use ashort length of wire or bungie cord to hang itfrom the handle-bars, up out of your way. Onthe 3/8‚ bolt, remove the cotter pin from therear; unscrew the lock-nut, unscrew the boltfrom the threaded bushing in the fendermount and pull it out of the caliper mount andreaction link. On ’93 and later models,use a piece of wire to hold the fender up out ofyour way. Unscrew the axle nut, slide the axleout of the fork and lower the wheel to theground. Remove the caliper mount from theaxle and the bushings and spacers. Keep thisshit around, you’re going to need it.

Here’s the stock bushings, wavywasher and caliper spacer prior toinstallation.

The Springer uses a combination axleseal and caliper mount bushing, with awavy-washer and bronze thrust washerbehind the caliper mount. Remove anddiscard the bronze thrust washer that goesbetween the caliper bracket and the wheel.The PM mount has this thrust washer built-in.Install the PM caliper mount on the axleseal-caliper mount bushing with the wavywasher and raise the wheel assembly up intothe fork.

The caliper bushing and wavy washer inplace on the inside of the bracket.

Here’s the outside brass bushing inplacebetween the rocker and the caliperbracket.

Install the stock outer caliper mount thrustwasher between the caliper mount and thelower fork rocker. This is a factory part thatwas on the fork assembly; the copper coloredside faces the caliper mount. Slide the axlethrough the fork, install the flat washer andaxle nut and tighten the axle nut to 65 ft. lbs.

Here’s that beautiful puppy inplace.

Caliper installation

Removing the outside caliper bolts.

Remove the two chromed Allen end boltsfrom the Performance Machine caliper body,slip the caliper over the rotor and install the5/16 x 1 3/4-inch socket head bolts (Allens)and flat washers. Here’s where youcheck the caliper over the rotor. Step in front ofthe bike and eyeball the pads in the caliper.

Make sure the caliper is centered. Beforethe caliper is tightened down, it must becentered over the rotor; see page 3 for theproper procedure.

Here’s where you make sure thecaliper iscentered over the rotor.

Yep, sure enough they were on pagethree. Here’s what I missed, “The centerline of the caliper is where the two caliperhalves meet. Look down from the top of thecaliper onto the rotor. If it’s offset to theoutside then you need to install mounting boltshims. Shim kit includes six shims, two each:.016, .032. .062-inch. Insert the shimsbetween the mounting boss on the bracketand the caliper body by removing themounting bolts. After the caliper is centereduse Loctite or lock washers and torque thebolts to 22 ft. lbs.”

The small print dictates that failure toproperly center calipers will impede theperformance of this fine braking equipment.They’re right. Do it right the first time.

Attaching The Brake Line

First tape handle bar master lever 1/2 wayclosed. This will prevent fluid from free flowingfrom hose. Remove the end of the brake linefrom the stock caliper.Working rapidly so thatan excessive amount of brake fluid does notrun out of the end of the brake hose, attach theend of the brake line to the new PM caliperusing the PM supplied seal washers, onewasher goes on each side of the banjo fitting.

Position the banjo fitting so that the brakehose does not rub on the frontfender or other part of the motorcycle. I had toreroute my Goodridge brake line. Had to movefast.Tighten banjo bolt to 10 ft. lbs. of torque.

Bleeding The Brake System

You will find it is easier to bleed the brakesystem if you have a helper. First, fill themaster cylinder with DOT 5 brake fluid and putthe cover back on the master cylinder. Attach ashort length of rubber hose to the bleederscrew on the brake caliper. Put the other endof the hose into a coffee can or other suitableclean catch can.

Have your helper pull inon the front brake lever or push down on therear brake pedal five times. At the end of thefifth stroke, have your helper hold the brakelever in or pedal down.

While the helper holds the lever/pedal,open the bleeder fitting on the caliper. You willneed a 1/4 box end wrench. Air and brake fluidshould come out of the end of the hose that isconnected to the bleeder fitting.

After theair and brake fluid have stopped coming out ofthe hose, close the bleeder fitting. Your helpercan now release the brake lever/pedal. Thisaction will force the air that is trapped in thebrake system out the bleeder screw. Repeatthis procedure until the brake become firm orthere’s no air in the line.

Check thefluid level in the master cylinder after eachbleeding. Don’t let the master cylinderrun dry as this will push air back into the brakesystem which will require all-night bleeding.

Do not over tighten thebleeder screw.

Front brakes can be a bear, since airdoesn’t want to flow down the forksthrough the line and out of the caliper throughthe bleeder nipple. Some guys force fluid upthrough the bleeder nipple into the system. Ifyou want to use the above system, sometimesthe caliper needs to be raised above the barsto allow the air to flow to the bleeder nipple.

I’ve discovered that with a littlepatience, bleeding is hardly necessary. Takethe cap off the master cylinder reservior andpump the handle slightly. This allows the airbubbles to rise out of the caliper, up the lineand out the master cylinder. Tap the lines acouple of times and pump the lever slightlyuntil it’s firm. Refill the reservior whenneeded until complete, top it off and call itquits.

Leave it overnight and check it again in themorning. It may take a couple of days beforeall the bubbles are gone, but it’s abreeze.

Here’s a shot of the 1928Shovelhead during the photo shoot forAmerican Iron. It looked sharp thanks to thefinal details from CCI and Performancemachine. Of course, it would be nothing but apile of parts without the talented efforts ofStrokers Dallas and painter Harold Ponteralli.Watch for the feature in American Iron, thenwe’ll post a feature on Bikernet.

Need to see the previous chapter:http://www.bikernet.com/pages/story_detail.aspx?id=9001

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Sturgis Shovel Part 13

By Robin Technologies | February 21, 2024

Hang on. This is the last of the scintillating segments on building the Sturgis Shovel before I write the treacherous saga of the ride. Somewhere we will publish a feature on the bike in a mag and on the site. Oh, there’s one other tech that will come to pass—hard line assembly. I’m waiting for a CD of images from John Gilbert of Bike Works mag.

Fasteners organized and ready for final assembly.
So let’s get started. I was burnin’ daylight before the Sturgis run. I saved a ton of cash going with all powder and no additional chrome or polishing. It cost me just $325 to powder all my components for lasting protection.

Throughout this article I will point out my mistakes, so you can avoid them. I did an 80 percent decent job of mocking up the bike prior to powder. That meant that 20 percent had to be dealt with after the finish was applied. Bad news. The only thing I didn’t think through or make brackets for was the ignition switch and circuit breaker brackets. That may seem minor, but wasn’t as you will discover. On the other hand it wasn’t a big deal. You be the judge. Actually, if we wired, fired and rode the bike before final teardown, it would answer all the questions. But few builders take it that far.

I was jazzed to toss the Paughco Frame on the lift covered with pads. Foremost Powder had plugged all the threaded holes and tapped off the neck bearing surfaces. They did a helluva job. I shaved motor and transmission mounts for a proper ground and installed the S&S modified 93-inch engine and JIMS trans. Then I could install the Paughco Springer without a balancing act.

The Springer is easy to install, but takes care. I greased the bearings, slid on the dust shields and ran the whole springer through the neck. Keep in mind that installing the bearing races in the neck is not complete until the bike has been down the road. Any paint, dust or uneven race angle will mean that the bearings will seat further once on the road. Ride it for a week then lift the front end off the ground and jiggle the wheel by the axle. If there’s any movement or dangerous slop, take the bars and top tree off once more and tighten the stem nut until there’s just a hair of drag. Long front ends are more critical because of the leverage against the neck.

That’s the nut that needs to be tightened.

I didn’t bolt down the engine and trans hard, just the tranny plate which ultimately I had to loosen. The engine needs to be completely at ease for the BDL belt alignment so I just spun some stainless bolts into place. Then I installed the front wheel with Doherty spacers, the Brembo brake caliber and centered the wheel. Keep in mind that Brembo supplied the bracket, which is designed to replace a stock, late-model Harley springer brake system. I didn’t have the proper spacer, but a Harley shop had one and I was good to go.

Then I installed the Brembo Caliper. They supplied me with a series of shims. I used feeler gauges to determine centering the caliper over the rotor and stacked the shims until it was set. This is an interesting bumbling, experienced manner for writing articles. I have the insight of riding experience behind images of the bike yet complete. Ultimately we removed the front fender.

I build the front fender, single sided bracket after Kent’s, from Lucky Devils Metal Works in Houston, caliper mounted fender mounts, which work perfectly. My problem was the initial position of the caliper, too far forward. So I mounted it on the heim joint rod which didn’t work. When the bike went over a bump the front lip of the fender rode up with the caliper and the rear lip rode down with the springer touching the tire. It had to go. So I rode to Sturgis without a front fender ducking rainstorms all the way.

Next I installed the rear fender. Keep in mind that the rear fender, the oil tank and the rear wheel fight for the same spaces. They almost need to go together simultaneously, especially the oil bag and rear fender. Everything slipped into place with nyloc nuts, stainless Allens and red Loctite.

At the time I ran stock gearing with the JIMS 6-speed, until I discovered that I was faced with running a kicker. I didn’t change the rear wheel gearing from the 51-tooth, but I should have. This evening I’ll install a Custom Chrome flat (Sportster styled) 48-tooth sprocket and hope to knock the revs down seriously.

I also mounted the rear Brembo brakes and centered the caliper over the Brembo rotor. No problem. Even my Softail styled anchor bracket worked perfectly welded to the frame and tucked the caliper between the frame rails.

Click to see morefrom Lucky Devil

While I’m messing with brakes I’ll cover brake and clutch lines and cables. Instead of making up lines I ordered RevTech pre-assembled lines from Custom Chrome plus all the fittings washers and fasteners. Keep in mind that the front brake master cylinder uses larger master cylinder banjo bolts. They come in 10mm and 12mm. Watch out, and don’t hesitate to order a couple of extra bangos bent at different angles to make sure you’ll have what you need.

I measured my lines and clutch cable lengths a number of times then added an inch for safety. That’s where making your own lines can be helpful. Keep in mind that the front end will turn (clutch cable) and depress (front brake). You’ll need some slack. Plus you might change the angle of your handlebar levers, which will impact the position of the cables and lines. I used Tephlon tape on most fittings although some builders don’t recommend it. Since most of this stuff is chromed, I like the extra sealant.

I use only DOT 5 brake fluid in my bikes, ‘cause I can splash the shit all over the place without concern for paint damage. In many instances you can fill the master cylinder and rock, just by waiting for the bubbles to rise. Another key is to find the right pump can and fill the lines, caliper and master cylinder from the bottom up. Use a new pumper or a pump that’s dedicated to brake fluid only and attach it to your brake bleeder on the front wheel. Most of the time that works like a charm.

I’ve found that most front brakes will basically bleed themselves. Fill the master cylinder on the bars and pump it slowly allowing the bubbles to rise. Let it set overnight and most of the bubbles will rise just by pumping it with short strokes at the lever and watching the bubbles jump to the surface.

In this case I discovered that some air was trapped in the caliper, so I pulled it off the bike, taped a file (the same width of the Brembo rotor) and turned the caliper so the air could escape through the bleeder nipple. I bleed it a couple of times then returned the caliper to its rightful position. She was good to go.

The rear brake wasn’t so easy because the air couldn’t rise to the master cylinder. I bleed it from the front and the rear, and I think it still has air in the lines although the Brembo brakes worked fine. I received a lot of compliments and comments on the brakes, which I found strange. Brembo has a terrific reputation, but not on Harleys. Riders were surprised to find Brembos on a Chopper.

Now for the clutch cable. First I was confused about which cable style to order. I hope to put together an article on it in the near future. I picked the most common late model Evo cable and measured the length several times. Here’s the key. If you’re not replacing a stock cable you have no notion of the length. I pulled a stock cable and measured it, but I didn’t know what model it came from. I went by the length of my stock cable and found the 1990-1999 Fatboy cable length. Then I measured the extension due to the Paughco Frame, CCE risers and CCI bars. Much guess work. If I had all the bucks in the world I would have bought three cables lengths.

The end cap cable is the reason Baker, JIMS and RevTech transmissions come with a fresh gasket and a quart of transmission oil. They know that you’ll be forced to pull the end cap to install the cable in the ball driven throw-out bearing mechanism. It’s simple but cumbersome. Don’t loose the balls. You’ll need a massive C-clamp removal tool to pop that sucker free. Carefully lift the inner ramp and remove the cable coupling, attach the cable, which you have already screwed into the trans face cover. Return the coupling to the inner ramp by watching the puzzle face. Then put the ramp back in place and the retaining ring and bolt the face cover back into place. Don’t forget to add at least 20 ounces of Trans fluid. It will hold 24 ounces dry.

I learned something on this trip. If water gets in the trans it will act up, shift strangely. Drain the fluid and change it. Check your vent.

I ran the cable several ways to find the path that fit best, didn’t rub the frame or catch on anything. I used one Arlen Ness cable clamp to secure it and hooked the cable into the greased tephlon bushing in the Joker Machine handlebar control, then replaced the small C-clamp and I was ready for final clutch cable adjustment after the BDL primer was installed.

JIMS 6-speed transmission is place.
Here’s where a Twist emerged.

I’m going to cover the 300 BDL installation here and try to explain my shift. My plan was to run the Compu-Fire engine based electric starter system designed by Giggie before he left and took a job at Rivera. Rivera is making inner primary plates for this new system, but when I contacted them Ben Kudon’s response was hesitant. They weren’t ready. Of course I contacted our long-time sponsor BDL and initially they weren’t scheduled to make units, then I was pleased to find out they were, so I ordered one. But Sturgis crept into the picture, and suddenly I was without a starting system and coils hanging under the oil bag interfering with any new starter install.

I had a 300 BDL belt system and a starter but no place to put it. Kent from Lucky Devil shrugged his shoulders and said, “Why don’t you run a kicker?”

Sinwu ripped off her top, jiggled her tits and said, “You have one from Muller in Germany.

I jammed down the headquarter stairs to the shop and tore open the box. I was jazzed. This is one of the coolest kicker systems to come along. It cleared the rear exhaust pipe and the kicker arm was stylish, unique and strong. I couldn’t believe my luck.

This bearing retainer plate needed to be removed before the trap door could be pressed off.

Another JIMS Tool at work.

The JIMS 6-speed lined up with the BDL inner primary like a dream. All I needed was to pull the tranny face and press off the trap door, then replace the trap door and tranny cover with the Muller system. Muller even shipped a clutch ramp system that afforded smoother clutch action.

Hell, I’d even build a cool brass plug to cover the speedo-cable hole in the side of the JIMS trap door.

JIMS 6-speed gears protruding from the late 4-speed case.

All went well until I removed the JIMS trap door to discover the 6-speed protruding gears. The door was machined to accept the gears and the 5-speed door was not. I was stuck. I contacted Muller in Germany for a 6-speed replacement door. No answer. I called JIMS and ordered the kicker they distribute for the 6-speed. It never arrived, so I called Custom Chrome. If I could order a 5-speed quick, I could use the Muller system. They responded and in three days I had a Rev Tech Replacement complete with kicker and 23-tooth chain sprocket. I yanked the 6-speed and began to install the Rev Tech 5-speed in 4-speed case with a five-year or 50,000 mile warranty.

Here's the RevTech 5-speed trans installed.

At this point I should have replaced the rear 51-tooth sprocket with a 48 or perhaps a 46, but we’ll see. I removed the kicker cover and installed the clutch cable once more, sealed the tranny and filled it with 24 ounces of fluid.

Here’s the massive JIMS socket.

I pulled the massive, left-handed, mainshaft sprocket nut with a JIMS special tool and flopped it around backwards to afford me the clearance I needed for the RevTech chain to pass the 180 Avon tire. I locked it down with the JIMS tool and an Allen setscrew and red Loctite. She was good to go.

This sucker is left-handed, don’t forget.

Next, I needed to set up the BDL 300 belt drive system and the Compu-Fire Charging system. I slipped in the Stator, then the small tapered washer, followed by the Compu-Fire Rotor. It’s pasted right on the rotor not to smack it with any hammers. You might knock one of the magnets loose.

According to the rules sometimes the offset pulley mount doesn’t need the massive flat washer/spacer for proper alignment. But the first move includes installing the inner primary with the engine and tranny loose. I used never-cease on the threads of the transmission and tranny Allens to prevent damage to the threads. Take it back—first I had to remove the inner primary studs from the transmission. They were tight as hell and I used Yield and heat to set them free. Then I positioned the engine and the Trans with the primary.

I ran into problems. Nothing wanted to line up. I called a couple of buddies for guidance. I held the engine where it was with a shim under the front motor mount. Then I bolted the primary to the engine and trans. The front of the tranny raised almost .100. I started looking for shims. Bob from BDL told me the code was to shim the tranny plate and not the tranny, so I went to work. It wasn’t a problem to scour around for the right thickness washers. Soon the transmission was aligned, the primary fit easily and there was no drag on the transmission mainshaft.

Next, I needed to check the pulley alignment. I installed the pulley using the insert then the pulley and Allens. Since I would be removing and replacing the parts, I didn’t drive the alignment pins into the insert from the rear just yet. I discovered another glitch. I needed some washers or shims behind the engine pulley for alignment. I also discovered that the mainshaft nut wasn’t bottoming out, so the rotor flopped around. That wasn’t right.

I’ve installed a dozen BDL systems without major alignment problems. It takes patience, but once it’s correct, she will last and last. This is a tapered shaft transmission and once it’s installed it doesn’t slip off without a JIMS transmission hub puller tool.

I used this straight chunk of T-iron. I held it against one pulley and checked spacing with the other and feeler gauges.

With the pulley and the clutch in place you can test alignment a couple of ways. I used a cast T-Bar across the faces of the pulleys. They need to be exact, which means shims behind the engine pulley.

I made a mad dash to Walkers Machine and bought all the goddamn shims he had. The massive washer that comes with the rotor was only .035 too large. The next item was the inset in the engine shaft nut. I had to machine it to slip over the protruding shaft. This is also an area that takes some running and retesting to make sure it doesn’t seat and settle in, out of alignment. It’s easy to spot a problem. You’ll notice rubber dust around the pulley where it’s riding against the lip.

Remember that the clutch nut is also left-handed. Then the clutch slips into place and with some tugs and working the belt gently, it goes on. If not use two chunks of wood a large bolt and a socket to gently push the pulleys apart. Once it’s run for a while it will be much easier to remove and replace.

Here's the primary after the Sturgis blast of 1600 miles, with a 5-Ball in place.

Okay, so I installed the tank, with the Spyke petcock and stripped the spigot threads. It hung for most of the ride. We’ll cover the tank more in the ride saga, so hold on. The seat was also a challenge. I slipped off, so I changed the seat, to one with a lip, then changed it back an added taller springs. That worked.

With the primary aligned I still used never-cease on the primary threads because I knew that I would remove the inner primary once more.

Dyna coils and stainless fasteners from the Custom Chrome catalog.
Here’s my second sordid glitch

Hang on for this one. I needed to find a place for a toggle switch/ignition switch. I also had this massive aluminum starter motor boss on the inner primary that was going to waste. So I drilled out the starter shaft and installed a marine ignition switch. I glued it in place with a two stage epoxy then drowned it with liquid electrical tape, two coats. It seemed perfect except that the key sang in the wind only 1 inch above the peeling primary belt. No key rings or dice.

On the inside of the primary I made a brass strap that ran from one starter mounting hole to the other, holding two circuit breakers. One was a 15 amp for the lights and a 30 amp for the ignition. This became a very tight electrical area, dangerously close to the whirling CCI O-ring chain. As it turned out the circuit breakers were a hair or two from the coils. Cozy. I made a couple of wires long enough so that I could remove the primary and set it next to the bike to work on wiring issues.

The next thing I knew, under initial testing, the whipping chain chipped at the aluminum, dangerously close to the electrical. Larry Settle, of Settle MC Works loaned me a chunk of tephlon, which I carved and made a buffer, which worked perfectly to protect the chain from nearing hot wires.

Then came the Eye Candy Custom Cycles ’59 Cadillac taillight. They also make an old Ford style light, which I prefer, but I felt the need for side visibility, especially on the right. The mounting called for the primary once more to hold the taillight/brake light. Finding the proper location was a chore. It either rode too close to the chain or the mounting called for screws through the frame or into the wiring loom. I monkeyed with it for hours and finally designed a tough mounting system that might survive. All went well, but the frame rail still blocks the light and I might move it outbound.

Here’s the taillight to primary bracket.

This is a life saver heat gun when it comes to wiring, but be careful with this bastard. The tip is hot whenever you set it down. It doesn’t stand on its own well.

Here’s the taillight and license plate bracket in place.

I ran the thin sparkplug wires through the frame in shrink tubing, wired the coil and the Joker machine brake switch and headlight through the hole in the frame too close to the fork stop. Even on a simple chopper an idiot can find his way into trouble.

Finally I mounted the stylish Aeromach mirror on the left bar only. It came with all the hardware needed and never gave me a problem. I know I’m missing a link or two, maybe a necessary credit. Don’t hesitate to drop me a line if you need a question answered. You can reach me daily at Your Shots or drop a line to Bandit@Bikernet.com.

For some reason the taillight lense didn’t come with fasteners. If figured if I glued some nuts on the inside, they’d vibrate loose, and I could never change a bulb. Since every chopper needs bailing wire, that’s what I used.

Over the next couple of days I will attempt to complete the first saga of the ride to Sturgis. I hope to launch it on Friday. In it I will dig into the problems I encountered, mistakes I made and how I fixed them. Hang On. But beyond the glitches, actually the wiring worked out fine, but I should wire in a kill switch. The bike rode well, comfortable for a rigid, started without major hassle and ran all the way to Deadwood. I can’t complain.

How's this for the first riding shot?

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Witness Slips Needed Today

By Wayfarer | February 20, 2024

ABATE of Illinois

Statehouse Update

Always See the latest at
abate-il.org/bills

Questions? email: Legislative@abate-il.org

Want to make your voice heard? Join Us for Legislative Day – April 17th

Witness Slips Needed Today (2/20/24) Lawmakers to Consider Enacting California Air Emissions Restrictions on Illinois Bikers & Off Road Riders

Late last night, ABATE of Illinois learned that HB1634 will be heard in committee today at 4pm. This bill would subject ALL Illinois vehicles to restrictions passed by the unelected bureaucrats of the California Air Resources Board.

This bill would ban internal combustion engines by 2035, and severely restrict your ability to work on and maintain your motorcycles & off road vehicles.

Click here to fill out a witness slip (Opposed, Record of Appearance Only)

Need to Renew Your Membership or Update your information? Click Here to Log in or request credentials to access the member only parts of our Website

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Part 7 of VLXAFL5: Final Assembly Begins

By Wayfarer | February 20, 2024

by Bandit with photos by Weed

The Paint Returned from TNT

It’s been awhile, but I haven’t dawdled. I’ve been working hard on various projects. That guy in Deadwood, who was once 45 John bought a 1960 Panhead roller/basket case and I’ve been helping with the reconstruction. I rebuilt or built and trans from a case and a sketchy box of parts. With Fab Kevin we built a front disc brake. John rebuilt the rear star hub and I helped with fitment and the rear brake.

We slid in the engine after I stumbled. I used the rear axle and a flat lift jack to jack up the bike, so I could block it, remove the jack and start to install the 5-speed trans in a 4-speed S&S case. The trans didn’t want to go so I filed and ground all the paint out of the 4-speed slots and the slot I made and welded for the 5th stud on the right. I even had to grind the rear tab on the trans case more for additional clearance.

I couldn’t run an old school 4-speed trans for a couple of reasons. It’s an alternator S&S engine and I wanted it to be electric start.

Click here for the accelerating Tech adventure with detailed photos and tips.

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Don’t stop there, we have a whole department on Motorcycle Tech since 1996. Click and build now!
https://www.bikernet.com/pages/Techs_Bike_Builds.aspx

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Harley-Davidson’s 2024 Factory King of the Baggers Team

By Wayfarer | February 20, 2024

HARLEY-DAVIDSON FACTORY RACE TEAM LAUNCHES FOR 2024 MOTOAMERICA MISSON KING OF THE BAGGERS RACING SERIES

18-Race Schedule Includes Round at Red Bull Grand Prix of The Americas

MILWAUKEE (February 16, 2024) – The Harley-Davidson® Factory Race Team today launches its 2024 season with an exciting video featuring team riders Kyle Wyman and James Rispoli aboard new race-prepared 2024 Harley-Davidson® Road Glide® motorcycles based on the all-new touring platform for the MotoAmerica Mission King Of The Baggers road racing series. The video, with exclusive behind-the-scenes footage of the team, dials up the fun and irreverence of the King of the Baggers series, and will debut today on the Harley-Davidson YouTube Channel and other social channels.

An exciting special round was recently added to the 2024 Mission King Of The Baggers Championship by appearing during the third round of the FIM MotoGP World Championship at Circuit of The Americas in Austin, Texas, April 12-13. This two-race appearance during the Red Bull Grand Prix of The Americas weekend will mark the first time an international audience will see the thundering King Of The Baggers bikes in competition. In addition to the two points-paying races on Saturday, April 13, there will be a three-lap Mission Challenge on Friday afternoon with the six fastest qualifiers battling for a $5000 winner-take-all purse. This special round expands the 2024 Mission King Of The Baggers schedule to 18 total races.

Wyman and Rispoli will compete aboard race-prepared 2024 Harley-Davidson Road Glide® motorcycles powered by modified Screamin’ Eagle® Milwaukee-Eight® 131 Performance Crate Engines. These motorcycles are based on the all-new 2024 Road Glide model, including the sleek new next-generation sharknose fairing design. Many of the race motorcycle body panels are formed with the same lightweight forged carbon fiber material featured on the 2024 CVO™ Road Glide® ST model. The team bikes also feature upgraded suspension components, including Screamin’ Eagle/Öhlins Remote Reservoir Rear Shocks, and competition Screamin’ Eagle exhaust, along with upgraded Brembo® Racing braking systems, Marchesini® wheels, and premium Harley-Davidson racing components produced by Protolabs®. The team motorcycles will appear in all-new livery featuring the classic Legendary Racing Orange color long associated with Harley-Davidson Factory Team racing bikes.

Wyman returns for a fourth season with the Harley-Davidson Factory Race Team. He won seven races during the 2023 King of the Baggers season and finished third in the season championship. Wyman is the most winning racer in MotoAmerica King of the Baggers history, with 12 total race wins in the 24 events since the start of the series in the 2021 season, plus the 2021 season championship to his credit. Wyman won the Daytona 200 in 2019.

Rispoli joins the team for the 2024 season after placing second in King of the Baggers series points in 2023 riding for the Vance & Hines Harley-Davidson team. In 2023, Rispoli won two races, and scored five second place finishes and three third place finishes. Rispoli began racing Harley-Davidson motorcycles as a teenager and earned the nickname “Hogspoli” after winning the 2020 American Flat Track Production Twins championship aboard a Latus Motors Racing Harley-Davidson XG750R. He also won back-to-back AMA Pro Racing Supersport championships in 2011-2012.

For the 2024 season, the Harley-Davidson® Factory Race Team is sponsored by Mission® Foods, Rockford Fosgate®, Brembo®, Öhlins®, Protolabs®, SYN3® lubricants, and Screamin’ Eagle® Performance Parts and Accessories.

The MotoAmerica King Of The Baggers series offers exciting competition between American V-Twin touring motorcycles prepared for competition and equipped with a fairing/windscreen and saddlebags. The 2024 series has expanded to 18 races over nine double-header weekends held in conjunction with the MotoAmerica Superbike Series. The series opens on the high banks of Daytona International Speedway in Daytona Beach, Florida, March 7-9. To experience all the King Of The Baggers action in 2024, check out the Harley-Davidson Factory Race Fan Ticket Packages.

https://www.motoamerica.com/

2024 MotoAmerica Mission King Of The Baggers Season Schedule

(Two races each weekend)

March 7-9: Daytona International Raceway – Daytona Beach, Fla.
April 12-13: Circuit of The Americas – Austin, Texas (Red Bull Grand Prix of The Americas)
April 19-21: Michelin Raceway Road Atlanta – Braselton, Ga.
May 31-June 2: Road America – Elkhart Lake, Wis.
June 14-16: Brainerd International Raceway – Brainerd, Minn.
July 12-14: WeatherTech Raceway Laguna Seca – Monterey, Calif.
August 16-18: Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course – Lexington, Ohio
September 13-15: Circuit of the Americas – Austin, Texas
September 27-29: New Jersey Motorsports Park – Millville, N.J.

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