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Read More Sturgis Shovel Part 8
By Robin Technologies |
My first move began with a correction. I removed the exhaust pipe tab welded to the oil bag. The oilcan is rubber mounted, the exhaust pipe generated severe heat and the pipe system needs to be solidly mounted. It had to go. Actually Kent from Lucky Devil Metal Works in Houston tried not to mention the false move, but his frown gave it away. Or was it that question? “Is your rear pipe really mounted to the fuckin’ oil bag,” Kent said tentatively?
I discovered that the pipe exits the head close to the seat post and worked on a pipe connection there. There are a couple of rules in making pipes that I need to abide by. I needed to remove the pipe once in awhile, so I needed the pipe tab to be on the outside of the frame tab. Often mounting required slack, so I dug around for 1/16-inch washers to run between the tabs. That way when the fasteners are removed there’s some slack to pull the pipe free.
I worked with the pipe fully in place then tacked the seat post tab. Below is the tab tacked to the pipe. Then the tab welded in my shitty MIG welding fashion. I should slow down and clean the base metals more. I generally grind a bevel into the tabs for greater weld penetration. The welds are strong, just not handsome.
Next I needed to attach the Lucky Devil rear fender, align the rear wheel and cut the chain to fit. But first I needed to center the wheel in the frame, sorta. The custom Paughco frame is designed and manufactured to hold a belt pulley and a 180 Avon Tyre. That prevented me from measuring between the frame rails. I needed a straight line down the center of the frame backbone. It’s not incredibly accurate but close to draw a fabic or nylon line down the tube. Then with Doherty space kit and the seal spacers that came with the Custom Chrome aluminum and stainless spoke wheels, plus the Brembo brake caliper bracket, I aligned the wheel.
Before I cut the Rev Tech chain I installed the BDL Belt inner primary and pulled the engine and transmission into place which determined exact spacing. I know I covered this aspect somewhat a couple of chapters ago. There’s been some heavy drinking in the meantime, so if I lose track, it’s on Jack.
I centered the wheel in the chain adjustment slot to give me slack either way. Then I finally cut the chain with a JIMS tool.
I spoke to a couple of guys about sprockets and was told that this contraption will hold a sprocket nut from coming loose better than simply Allen screws in the Custom Chrome sprocket. I may use it or not. Haven’t decided yet.
The reason this is altered is that it’s for a pulley and a different era. Add that to the fact that I flopped the dished sprocket over to space the chain away from the tire. That aspect worked perfectly.
I decided that since the tank was rubber mounted and aluminum won’t flex as well as steel that I would attempt to rubber mount aspects of rear Luck Devil fender. Kent designed and handmade the fenders to match aspects of the XR 750 tank.
Cyril Huze sent me several grommets to work from and this pair are from some late model Sportster application. I measured the O.D. on the center portion and discovered that I needed ½-inch holes in the fender which I drilled after I had mocked up the fender in place, ground a clearance strip for the chain and stood back several times. Arlen Ness once told me that he used a chain wrapped over a tire to space a fender. I needed enough space for fasteners under the fender and some chain adjustment slack either way.
I moved the fender up and back, and side-to-side several times before making any hole-drilling marks. I was a nervous wreck. Ya don’t mess with the Devil’s fender. I finally drilled a half-inch hole, and smoothed the edges, in the bottom of the fender then at the crossover tube. I worked in the rubber with a dab of oil and bolted the bottom stainless bolt in place.
The Sportster grommets have metal inserts, which make them easier to install. With a couple of spacers in place the fastener held the center tab for tacking.
Here’s where it got tricky. I’ve been bending metal with a torch for years. Never improved my technique. Just the other day, a month after I built this fender rail system, I bought a small strap or tube-bending tool. Wish I had it when I went after this project.
First I built the fender strap out of a piece of exhaust pipe bracket. It came with two 3/8-inch coarse tapped inserts in each end. My plan was to build a fender rail system with tubing so I could adapt a couple of running lights on the tips. I carefully bent and drilled the strap and fender.
Then I bent the tubing fender rails to fit over the chain and tacked tab to the Paughco frame. One item I often attempt to use is a level. I’ll level the frame from side to side, then strive to keep all the other elements level. It helps.
Here’s a perfect example. As I finished my welding chores, I got on a roll. I thought– wouldn’t it be cool to weld the fender bolts in place from the bottom. They would never come loose. Note the angle. There was no way they would ever return through their mounting locations. I was forced to grind them off and clean the holes.
Here’s the finished fender rail system. I drilled holes in the frame and the rails to run wires. I still haven’t found the perfect running light style that rocks my boat and will afford me enough room to use the proper fasteners. Hang on!
Sturgis Shovel Part 7
By Robin Technologies |
Brembo has a solid worldwide reputation, and I ran into a hot looking Brembo representative at an illustrious bike function and decide I’d give them a try. They’re hot and ready to rock. The only items I needed were the locking nuts for the back of the rotors bolts and the springer axle spacer. This set-up was designed for a stock springer replacement.
Because of the wild, light, taper-legged Paughco Springer my hiem joint link wasn’t long enough and I bastardized two fine bolts together temporarily. At that point I wasn’t considering a front fender. There are two aspects of chopperdom that I have a tough time working around. Bikes need front fenders and brakes. Can’t ride ‘em much without those two bastards. Even in the old days I ran front fenders, Avon Tyres and front brakes.
Chris Kallas came over at just the right moment. He’s as old at riding as I am and an artist. We’ve featured his work in special reports. He knows his bike shit and I’ve been trying to convince him to see Jim Murillo about a job. Jim has a paint shop in Torrance, but he’s not the graphics guy, Chris is.
As usual, about the time I think it’s going to be easy, the devil pops up on my shoulder. Kent, from Lucky Devil Metal Works in Houston called, “What are you going to do about a front fender,” he said? “Yeah, that’s what I thought. I’ll send you some shots of my springer front fenders.” He hung up and Chris looked at me sorta strange.
”Who the hell was that,” he said?
”Never mind,” I said flipping my computer on. Kent developed a system of mounting springer front fenders that’s clean as a whistle and odd as only the devil would make it. An engineer wrote Bikernet when I first featured his wild notion and chewed us out. “That idea’s not worth the powder the blow it to hell,” he shouted.
At first I thought he was correct, but the more I considered it, the more I determined that he was wrong. The caliper follows the line of the rotor, so the fender will follow the circumference of the Avon tire. Of course when I stepped into the ring to create a similar configuration I couldn’t do it like the Devil does. The Brembo caliper runs too far ahead of the rotor to mount the fender so we ran carefully designed struts off the brake linkage. Chris drew up the plan, then bent struts out of coat hanger for a guide.
We constantly tried fitment again and again before tacking them into place. I wouldn’t recommend this configuration to anyone. If you run struts off the caliper they’re solid. The heim joints allow the fender to fluctuate, especially side to side. I had to find a concave washer that would allow the heim joints to work up and down but not side to side.
Chris bent each rail to match in pure artistic form. Then I tacked them.
Kent built the front fender with threaded aluminum bungs underneath. I figured out some slender spacers to fit on top of the fender and tacked the rails to them. I must have welded them a dozen times trying to grab just enough rail, weld and spacer to prevent cracks.
There you have it. It’s wild, but will it last to the Badlands?
–Bandit
1928 Shovelhead Project Part II
By Robin Technologies |
In a dank dark corner of a dusty debris strewn shop behind the Strokers Saloon on Harry Hines Blvd in Dallas was a small stack of bike parts guarded by a massive starving pitbull with one eye and most of one ear chewed away. The beast was so vicious that it once chewed through a 1/2 inch tether cable, and ate four Avon tyres before it could be subdued and chained in place. No one had the balls to feed the animal and it ran off so many customers that a collective decision was made to relegated the dog to guarding our Shovelhead project. It was like a death sentence. The lovely Lena, the 14-year-old daughter of Rick and Tina Fairless, the owners, who was scheduled to be Bandit’s 6th wife had a fiery temper and told Bandit, in no uncertain terms that the bike would be completed until he left the other women behind and came to Texas to settle down. The Dallas crew surmised that it would never happen so the fuckin’ dog would starve to death waiting for Bandit to return to collect the fair Lena and complete his pact with the marriage counselor.
Unexpectedly during a freak Texas panhandle thunderstorm Bandit walked into the shop, carrying a turtle the size of a baby moon into and asked for the Lovely Lena. Upon presenting her with the turtle, her hardened resolve melted like a torch to a metal hanger and she swooned then demanded that her crew set to work on the project. We apologize for the long-winded explanation, but it’s important to understand all the delicate facets of this project to obtain a feel for the treacherous nature of this undertaking and the lives that hang in the balance.
Just then the mega Dallas Easyriders store had a mass exodus of mechanics. Two were hospitalized trying to reach the parts, one died. Several were so pissed off at the shear audacity of Lena’s order that they started a competing business down the street. In reality they were so jealous of Lena’s affections for Bandit that they could no longer work and watch her dance through the shop on air. Enter Jim the transplanted fabricator from Florida who was hired before he knew what he was getting into. If you’re not from Texas, you won’t be familiar with the labor laws. Chain gangs are not exclusive to the Texas Penal system. They are a common phenomena in the work place. Jim hasn’t seen his family since going to work for the Fairless contingent. Between you and us, we have slipped Jim a note that once the project is finished we will spring him in the crate they plan to ship the bike, but that’s another story.
Jim has now modified the tanks for fit the Paughco rigid frame, mounted the engine and trans and front end. Randy Simpson is bending the bars for the project. Jim his building a box for under the seat for the battery since the oil will run from part of the gas tanks to the engine. If you note the belt pulley, we are now planning to run a chain for authenticity and since some other aspect of the bike forced us to go with a chain. We are still looking for the ultimate taillight to go with the project, and we hope to lower the front end enough to make the tanks more level, with Custom Cycle Engineering lower rockers. The front wheel is the stock Bad Boy 21 with an Avon tire. The rear will also be an 21-inch Avon with disc brakes. Pipes are scheduled to be reproduction stock early shovel pipes from Paughco.
Watch as this project comes together. All bets are that the San Pedro Police bike with never even see the border of California, unless she sees the coast before the bike arrives. Stay tuned.
–Wrench
Sturgis Shovel Part 2
By Robin Technologies |
This bike might look like shit, but it should work perfectly. I'm endeavoring to keep it light, tight, narrow and right. So far so good. We've even decided to eliminate paint from the equation, except for rusty metal that may need black powder coating from Custom Powder Coating in Dallas, and the front end was powder coated black at the Paughco factory.
Let's jump into the shop. I was jazzed to receive my Rev Tech wheel order from Custom Chrome. I needed to mock up the frame and ship an image to Tim Conder for a concept drawing. Conder's images inspire any builder. I couldn't move on it until the Custom Chrome wheels were delivered and mated to the Avon Venom tyres. I'm also going to avoid chrome and flashy stuff as much as possible. We're running bare metal in several instances: Wheel rims, aluminum tank, brass fender rails and linkage, copper hard oil lines, and thick wall copper tubing bars. Dig this, we're going to galvanize the frame, rear fender and oil bag. The XR Sportster racing tank which is aluminum was delivered from Cyril Huze. I'm going to leave it brushed aluminum, but the capacity was a minimum 1.75 gallons. I'm mounting it high on the frame so we'll open the tunnel for additional fuel capacity and weld the area shut.
I'm jumping around. Let's get back to the Rev Tech wheels. The spokes are stainless with polished aluminum rims for a long lasting approach. Even the Paughco frame came with brushed aluminum axle plates. We're going to leave 'em alone. Cyril Huze designed a new, between the heads, coil and ignition switch mount. I ordered one without polish or chrome. It's unfortunate that we can't get wheels with Stainless hubs and eliminate chrome all together. The front is a 21 with a 18 by 5-inch rear for a 180 Avon Venom. I don't want a super wide tire. I'm specifically avoiding wide tires. I think they make choppers look like fat-assed chicks. They lose their chopper code of agility and lightness.
With my Doherty wheel spacer kit I was able to set up wheel spacing quick, for the time being. It's a trick working in the shop by myself and I will try to explain some operations from that perspective. We all face shop blues from time to time. Makes me kick back and rethink various operations when six hands are needed and I'm limited to one on the part and one on the arm of the drill press.
So alone one night I grappled with the installation of the CCI neck bearings (I need a JIMS tool for the races), to install the Paughco springer front end. After a trip to a local fastener store I was able to weave two studs into the rear legs of the front end for traditional, vibration dampening Custom Cycle Engineering risers. The studs needed were 1/2 inch about 2.5 inches long with 1/2-20 threads on one end and 1/2-13 on the riser end. The shop only had two different-length studs and one needed additional tapping to fit.
I use these risers on most of my bikes because of the traditional, old school appearance and the vibration element for long runs, but they take a degree of thinking since they shove the bars toward the rider (and often the tank) about 2 inches. I needed to watch for the appropriate amount of tank clearance and ultimately needed the 1-inch longer stems. Very high bars can be a problem with the leverage against the flexible rubber, but with patience, they will work fine. Since each riser is a single unit, they will flex and pivot until they're aligned and tightened down.
I installed low rise drag bars from Custom Chrome/Khrome Works. I'll see how they fit as the seat is mounted. I ordered a seat at a swapmeet this weekend, black with brass buttons by West Eagle. My plan is to bend thick-walled copper tubing and polish it for the final bars.
Now Imagine the first time I installed the front wheel, wrestling with the slipping front end and frame, the front wheel, the axle and the spacers simultaneously. Fortunately my 11-year-old grandson was on hand with a rubber mallet to assist. For the rear I used a crate to hold the wheel and the approximate height so I could muscle the axle and spacers through to align it with the frame. It was time for a Corona.
The engine is currently in the hands of S&S for a breast reduction from 103-inch to 93 smooth inches of reliable horse power. I'm waiting on the engine build images to share with you.
Hold on, I'm slipping the clutch again. Next I mounted the Rev Tech rear wheel with another Avon Venom within the Paughco frame. Unfortunately my Kraft Tech Fender is 9-inches wide and the tire on the 5-inch wide rim runs only 7-inches. I need about an 8-inch wide fender. I'm waiting for the shipment to arrive.
Then I moved onto the tank. I needed to create a couple of bungs for rubber mounting the rear of the tank and tap them for 1/4-20 threads. It was the first time I used our new/old lathe. This is all a new learning experience at the new Bikernet Headquarters. I grabbed a lathe that was rusting in Japanese Jay's backyard. He wasn't using it and I wanted one to cut wheel spacers. I reworked and cleaned the lathe until it was operational then the Doherty crew created a wheel spacer kit? Ah, but the lathe has a myriad of uses, like cutting bungs from a chunk of aluminum. Worked great.
Then I tapped them using the lathe chuck. I discovered that the tank petcock bung needed moving to the rear, since the tank was mounted at an angle. I cut it out with a die grinder and returned to the lathe to machine off the welds.
Next I need to learn how to use my new/real old, milling machine. My dad was a machinist most of his life and ultimately an engineer in the oil well industry. As a teenager I worked in machine shops and picked up equipment experience between smoking joints. I swear I learned something.
Let's see, what else. I dug through our parts bins and found the exact bracket I needed to mount the Kraft Tech oil bag. I need to cut off the existing coil and oil bag brackets and make a new front mount.
Wait a minute I'm slipping again. I dug through my bracket drawers and pulled a couple of old Jammer brackets 1/4-inch thick. I drilled 1/2-inch holes for the rubber mount grommets from Cyril Huze. I bolted them in place.
Next, I carefully measured the backbone tubing of the frame and figured the dimensions of the tabs and carefully marked and cut them, then beveled the edges for strong welds.
The next day under a sober sky, I refit the tank, tacked and MIG welded the tabs. Once the Bill Hall, pro-welder, welds my tank bungs in place and the tunnel is capped, I can make the final rear tabs and mount the tank semi-permanently. Is that possible?
Next, I will mount the Kraft Tech Oil bag, the rear fender and sprung seat mechanism. I'm also dealing with the rear drive. The frame was set up for belt, but more and more I like the chain notion.
The JIMS machine tranny is set up for 4-speed applications with 6-speed gears. First, I ordered the wrong Custom Chrome tranny plate, then I was twisted about the sprocket vs. belt pulley needed to drive the bastard. I dug through old parts bins until I found gears, since it looked like a gear-driven job. Then the sprocket didn't fit. I'm still trying to figure it out.
I'm going to meet with Jim of JIMS in the next couple of days and get to the bottom of it.
Although the frame is set up for a belt, that means if I run a chain, I'll have plenty of alignment flexibility. Hang on for my next report.
–Bandit
Doherty Machine
1030 Sandretto Dr Unit L
Prescott, AZ 86305
928-541-7744
mailto:Dohertymachine@aol.com
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Sturgis Shovel Part 3
By Robin Technologies |
We've developed a working relationship with S&S, and I was concerned about the 105-inch Shovelhead Richard Kranzler scored for my Sturgis Chop project. His motorcycle ran like a raped-ape, but the 105 tore the livin' shit out of his old school chassis. The mirrors became frisbies, the footpegs vibrated lose and ditched him at 125 mph on the freeway. The stress was more than the old swingarm frame could take.
Hot Rod engines are cool but will beat the shit out of a solid mount frame configuration. The best bet is to let them stretch out in a rubber mounted chassis. I called S&S to see what they would recommend and they suggested a smaller 93-inch configuration. James Simonelli put me in touch with Steve George, a 10-year S&S veteran, who said under his breath that they prefer not to mess with engine configurations other than they're own, but he would look mine over.
Made a lot of sense. S&S now builds a complete line of Shovelhead engines in four configurations: Two cone motor and two generator style. Each are available in 80-inch and 93-inch power configurations. Here's a description of their new units:
With the addition of the new S&S billet Shovelhead style rocker boxes and tappet guides, along with new pushrods and forged roller rocker arms for Shovelheads, S&S can now offer complete Shovelhead style engines. These engines will be available in 2005
S&S Shovelhead style engines feature the finest parts on the market today. Start with the bulletproof crankcases, flywheels, cylinders, and heads that they've offered for years, and finish the engine with new premium valve train components. S&S billet gear cover, tappet guides, and rocker boxes look outstanding and offer the performance level Shovel builders have come to expect.
What you can't see inside the engine is just as impressive. The new S&S Shovelhead style tappet guides are designed around the quiet, dependable Evolution style tappets. Corrected tappet guide bore geometry assures correct valve timing using Evolution style cams. The unique adjustable pushrods are collapsible for easy removal and installation, but are stronger than our old style adjustable pushrods.
Inside the billet rocker covers are S&S's exclusive straight rocker shafts and the new S&S forged Shovelhead style roller rocker arms. The result is a Shovelhead engine with the kind of quiet power that some folks may just have a hard time believing.
A new addition to the S&S Shovelhead family is the 93-inch alternator/generator engine. This is the perfect engine for that “retro” chopper, but with a modern alternator charging system.
In addition, the late style sprocket shaft used in this engine allows the use of late style transmissions for additional modern functionality. So when you take your chopper out for a late-night cruise, and you want to see the road ahead as you click `er into 6th gear, this is the one.
Note:S&S Shovelhead style engines equipped with S&S tappet guides and tappets will be supplied with an Evolution style camshaft. Custom engines ordered without S&S tappet guides and tappets will be supplied with a standard Shovelhead style camshaft.
My engine was equipped with House of Horsepower cases. We used the same bore (3 5/8-inch) but S&S barrels and pistons with a 4.5-inch stroke (instead of 5-inch stroke). Stock bore is 3 7/16 and 3 1/2-inch for all 80 and 88 inch engines. This operation basically involved a S&S Sidewinder kit, including (left to right) cylinders, pistons, crank pin, connecting rods, cases and flywheels.
First Steve assembled the short block which was balanced to a 1300 bob weight for smooth operation and reliability. The S&S forged pistons are 8.2:1 compression with longer skirts for longer lasting reliability.
Then he assembled the wheels in the left case with fresh Timken bearings. My cases needed a ledge bored away for the longer skirted S&S barrels.
Next the other side of the case was slipped over the pinion shaft roller bearings and the lower end was complete. The flywheel weight is approximately the same as stock Evolution (lighter than Shovelhead wheel) for a balanced running engine and added reliability.
Ah, next came the pistons and barrels. I know we don't have all the details here, but at least you can see the big steps in building an engine. It's not tough but takes precision workmanship and quality components.
The final steps before shipping included the S&S oil pump installation and the cone cover. I'm returning a Compu-Fire ignition system to the cone in short order.
The engine is now at Phil's Speed shop. He're rebuilding the heads and will install S&S roller rockers, shafts, new Custom Chrome Black Diamond valves, new lifters (with bored-to fit lifter stools) and pushrods. Hopefully it'll be completed next week and ready to set into that Paughco frame. Then I can start bending pipes and making shit.
I've worked with Paughco for over 25 years, for quality frames and front ends, then this frame arrived and the tranny wouldn't fit. I had a 4-speed tranny plate that the JIMS trans slip right into, but the holed in the frame didn't align. I spoke to my tech guru, Frank Kaisler who contributes to Hot Bike, Street Choppers and was the editor of Hot Rod Bikes. He lives tech. Of course he pointed out that I needed a first electric start vintage plate. I had a late model, dipped, single sheet plate and the 4-speed job and neither worked. So I sat as my desk and poured a glass of jack. I had the bike buildin' blues.
Here's the famous Bikernet Desk. I made calls about the tranny plate, unsuccessfully and slugged that amber liquid until my brow bounced off the glass top and I spied the tranny below–on the wrong plate. I couldn't believe it. All these years that desk ran with the wrong tranny plate, and it just happened to be the one I needed.
Here's both tranny plate together. The thick one with two slabs of steel is the original 4-speed job. The single, bent-in-the-center sheet with the four frame mount spacers was designed for the first electric start transmissions beginning in 1965.
Finally the JIMS trans is in place with the proper mounting plate, and I was ready to move onto mounting the oil bag.
At last, after 15 years I installed the correct tranny plate into my desk. Damn, I'm embarrassed.
The rear fender is on it's way from Lucky Devil and I installed the Kraft Tech round oil bag last weekend. Movin' right along. You'll see that tech shortly. A new oil cooler/oil filter set-up is on it's way. It's a must for making the old iron last.
Sturgis Shovel Part 1
By Robin Technologies |
We're starting another project at Bikernet, the Ultimate Chopper. I dediced that title was bullshit. I look at some of the bikes built nowaday and mine pale by comparison, so screw it. It's the Bandit/Sturgis 2005 Chop. It's been a couple of years since I built a bike for myself. Hell, I can't ride the shrunken FXR, it's too small. Besides I need a rigid chopper for everyday flying. I gotta tell ya, I love choppers, like women. They're sleek, slim and move with an indescribable grace.
Here's the design notion. No we're not trying to compete with the Martin Brothers, Paul Yaffee or Matt Hotch, who are all master craftsmen and artisans in the custom motorcycle world. They are incredible and I have the utmost respect for each one of them. I'm sorta Indian Larry West. I want to build a light agile chopper for the ride. I'll attempt to explain. I've been riding choppers most of my life. I've tried out many styles, but consistently come back to the mighty light weight chopper.
Let's get specific. I needed something stretched to fit my 6-foot, 5-inch frame so were going with a stretched Paughco Rigid with 4 inches in the downtubes and 3 in the backbone. But I'm sticking with a very moderate rake of 35 degrees for handling. I'm running a 9-over light tapered leg Paughco springer for class and city handling. I'll run my traditional Custom Cycle Engineering risers for limited handlebar vibration and traditional appearance.
One of the notions is to make this bike a very reliable, rideable chopper for long hauls, maybe to Sturgis next year. I would generally run a 96-inch Evo to fit the rule, but this time a brother, Richard Kransler cut me a deal on a Shovelhead engine with 3 5/8 bore and 5-inch stroke. That over 100-inch monster would tear this bike apart in short order so I called S&S for advice.
We're going to roll with a tried and true S&S formula for street power, reliability and balance–same bore with 4.5-inch stroke will give me 93 inches of grunt. I tore the engine down for modifications last week and shipped the lower end to Viola, Wisconsin for a S&S blessing.
In keeping with the chopper code of the west, no fat assed tire will cramp the handling. I'm going with only an Avon 180/18 and a 21 on the front. No wild billet wheels but clean Custom Chrome polished aluminum rims and 40 stainless steel spokes. This bike will have a touch of chrome, but not much. I'm going to start a bin of Stainless Allen fasteners to take care of assembly.
I'm not going to run anything that sticks out from this bike, no sidemounted license plate bracket or wide bars, just tall risers and what I call TT bars that I will narrow for splitting lanes on LA freeways.
I may use a flush mount Sporty tank, or perhaps a Cyril Huze job like the one on the Shrunken FXR. What a sharp tank. I'll use a BDL belt, Compu-Fire alternator/ regulator and single fire ignition for reliability. We're mounting Kraft Tech fenders and oil tank, making our own pipes and brackets. Dewey's custom pegs will be used because they're light and contain just enough rubber to keep vibration away from feet and hands. The foot and hand controls are all Joker Machine for true reliability and simple clean design.
The Jim's 6-speed overdrive tranny is waiting a Custom Chrome Sprocket and Rev Tech O-ring chain. Finally I'll research the best possible sprung seat for comfortable, vibration free ride.
We're shooting for a bike that will be solid for the long run. It'll run strong, won't vibrate to shit, be reliable enough to ride to Sturgis, a street fighter in the old school fashion. Not a lot of flash, but tremendous class. Watch as it comes together right hear on Bikernet. Oh, I've got a couple of tricks up my sleeve that will be revealed as we turn this pile of parts into a running gargoyle.
Sturgis Shovel Part 5
By Robin Technologies |
Helluva weekend. Anytime there's lots of motorcycle carnage,sex, whiskey and writing, I'm all for it. Maybe it's Valentines Daycreeping up. Make a note. Here's the deal on the Sturgis Shovelhead. Sincethe engine was in and mounted I went to work on the exhaust system,then seat mounting, position and played with the bars. I made a runto a local steel joint, because I had a notion that I doubt will worknow, but I'm still investigatin'.
Let's hit the highlights. I'm fortunate to have a young,talented fabricator/builder who I'm sharing ideas and resources with.Kent from Lucky Devil Metal Works in Houston is on the phone dailyfor tips and knowledge sharing. It's damn healthy to have someone whois in the trenches daily to assist. In fact I had a couple ofcrucial metallurgy question that morning, but let's hit what Iaccomplished.
A crucial aspect of building any bike is planning. That'snot to say all my eggs are in a row. We'll see, but the more you canaccommodate, the less redo's will be necessary. Also, don't throwanything away. That junk part might be a critical bracket tomorrow. Idug through my partially organized pipe bin and found a set of oldglass pack, shorty muffler, shot gun pipes. I could use the rear one.I decided, since noise issues are a concern and performance issue area constant priority, I would build a set of shorty mufflers withBandit tuned baffles.
Then I spotted the fishtips in the pile and myconsideration changed. I dug further. Kenny Price from Samson allowedme to dig through his warranty bin when I was looking for stanchionsfor my Bikernet office railing. I remembered touring mufflers withfish tips, I kept digging.
Sure enough I had a set and in quick movesI sliced them into chunks. You know me, I'm a gambler. I cut themwith no methodology in mind past the size and looks, but I came uplucky. Samson designed a baffle system with a cone at the front toguide exhaust pulses into the baffle and it seems to be working fortouring applications. I cut off that portion and discarded themajority of the baffle. But there was still 2 inches of baffle and astandard donut in the rear of the muffler. That's where fate movedit's evil hand over Richard Kimball again. Or in other words I rolledthe dice.
I spoke to Kendall Johnson recently and he told me aboutperformance stepped exhaust systems and reversion cones used to tunesystems at the rear of the pipe. I couldn't make this donut move upand back, but I had the makings of a reversion cone at the stern.With a torch I cut out the remaining baffle, then after speaking withthe HOT BIKE staff member, Craig Murrow, for a reversion cone descriptionI knockout out the remaining baffle, then with various cutting andgrinding cones I formed and smooth departure for the exhaust pulses.Then I had to remove the old touring mounts with a die-grinder andthey were ready to weld.
The rear pipe was comparatively easy since the pipe wasalready made except for the muffler and brackets. Shovelheads arenotorious for louse exhaust manifold connections and tearing out thesingle stud, so I wanted to mount them in the front and rear for asolid, secure connection. The only port for the connection at thefront was the oil bag. That was a bad choice and I'll run a bracket off the seat post before all is said and etched in stone.
I had to make sure the pipe could be removed with the tabs onthe bottom, then I spaced the tabs apart with a heat sink material. Imay use Teflon, then the notion that the oil bag is rubbermountedfloated to the surface. What bearing would that have on thiscoupling? Hell the frame will vibrate like a mad dog. I'm stillquestioning that link, but we'll see, maybe a spring between the tabs? The final decision was the seat post bracket to come.
There was one other pipe design consideration–the length.I try to keep the pipes somewhat equal and between 32 and 38 inches.Buster's Sportster runs sharp and crisp with his hand-made 38-inchesfrom the Bikernet Headquarters, as seen in Street Chopper. So Idesigned this pipe to be 38-inches and not protrude past the tire. Mygoal was to make the front pipe curve out the other side and be ofequal length.
At the end of Friday night, one pipe was complete, toolswere scattered all over the shop and I had a couple of Hooker Headerchunks of 1 3/4 pipes segments cut and was fooling with the frontheader. The front was tricky as hell. I wanted to scoop out the leftside of the bike, which added length. I also had a bitchin Rohm Engineering oil filter/cooler system that mounts to the front motormounts and aims the filter at the ground for ease of removal anddraining. The pipe had to clear it significantly. This puppy was alifesaver. I planned to run an oil cooler (Shovelheads run hot) andfilter, for a lasting driveline and more oil capacity. My originalplan called for old school mounting on either side of the oil bag.This eliminated all of that and the plumbing for two elements, the cooler and the filter, wasreduced to one hot looking job in front of the engine for maximum cooling.
I spentall day long on Saturday, dodging the phone and working in thegarage. I had all the tools and materials I needed, even two new setsof welding glasses, which came in damn handy. The trick was to lineup the pipes, make all the right decisions, hope for the best andtack 'em. I did and with a level I constantly compared the pipe tothe top of the lift. The spacing worked out fine.
I cleared the top of the Rohm bitchin' oil cooler/filter mounthopefully by enough to allow the pipe slip down and out of the head (I was recommended to use a CCI Filter part number 270126).I tacked the tab with a spacer between the two for some jiggle room.And I made damn sure that the pipe tab was below the frame tab. Atthe back, the muffler was fabricated the same as the other one with aslight exception.
I shaped the reversion cone the same, cut off thetouring mounts and ground the tabs. Then I used a couple of V-blocksto hold it perfectly in line for tacking the halves together. Then Isliced off the crush tabs on the front of the Samson tapered muffler.They were wider and different than the other side, so I cut them off.You'll notice the difference, if you check both side.
The front parts of the pipe were Hooter elements and theyare smooth mandrel bent segments. I used another one for joggedstraight piece between the muffler and the head. I took the 13/4-inch exhaust to my Muffler Master bender and bent it slightly oneway, then reversed the sucka and bent it the other way. It fit like adream and looped out enough to pass the oil bag. I used Hooker headeralignment sleeves to hold the front pieces in perfect alignment. Donedeal, I tacked them, constantly comparing the level with the lift,the pipes then the muffler. After the tacking was secure, another tabwelded to the frame, avoiding the oil bag (a Lucky Devil concern,since the oil bag is rubbermounted), then all elements wererechecked, I removed both pipes and MIG welded them as complete aspossible.
I find that MIG welding is a pain and blows holes in pipes easily.I also discovered that after I MIG weld a pipe I can flow the weldeasily with a torch and smooth out all the welds, fix holes and fillgaps. I actually found a piece of old steel rod, not much bigger thana piece of wire. I usually use old coat hanger, but it pops andwheezes from the paint coating.
After the pipes were welded, flowedand checked twice, I ground all the surfaces with an emery disc andpainted them with whatever barbecue heat paint I had laying around.The lovely Layla is currently on her way back from Home Depot withsome flat black heat paint. We'll see how that works.
Kent from Devil hand fabricated the seat pan, brackets andbungs. I set them up and welded the parts in place. Then it was timeto roll the bike off the lift and see how she fit and where I mightneed heat shields. I discovered a couple of things. Yes, the scootwould require left side heat shields and nothing on the right. I alsotested my notion to sculpt claws out of brass, unsuccessfully.
I also found that the existing bars wouldn't cut it. Igrabbed the old '48 Panhead TT-bars, narrowed them by 4 inches, and Isorta like them.
Okay, so I grappled with the sculpting business fora couple of hours and discovered that I can't control the brass likeI can steel. I spoke to Kent from Lucky Devil and he recommended thatI try TIG Silicon Bronze rod. I'll try that next week. In themeantime, my first brass sculpting attempt ended up on the shop door.Let's get the hell out of here.
Ride forever,
–Bandit
5-Ball Factory Racer Tuning issues
By Robin Technologies |
This has been the strangest tuning dilemma I’ve ever faced with a motorcycle in my 40 years of messing with these bastards. I fell in love with our Factory Racer CrazyHorse 100-inch engine. The day we started the bike for the first time, it fired to life immediately, no hiccups, stumbles, or coughs. Every time I hit the Phil’s Speed Shop electronic system starter button, it immediately rumbled to life. Then we attempted a break-in ride and it blubbered badly at mid-range. If I nailed it, it jumped forward, then stumbled and nearly died. I was perplexed.
At first we thought, and so did S&S, that our Crime Scene air cleaner, facing backwards, was the evil culprit. We began an extensive investigation. Larry Petri, the master Chop N Grind mechanic, came over and we tried some jetting changes, which didn’t seem to help. We went to Bonneville, so we shifted gears to our Peashooter project until we returned.
While cleaning the shop after Bonneville, I came across another S&S Super E, and installed it immediately. The bike did the same thing, so we ruled out the carb for a minute, and I investigated whether there was any chance it could be the ignition.
According to a few CrazyHorse experts, the Thunderheart ignition system could have been the problem, so I reached out to Thunderheart in Florida. They asked me to send them the ignition module and the cam sensor, which I did. They told me the cam sensor was defective and replaced it. I re-installed it and the bike did the same thing, blubbered at mid-range. I performed another Thunderheart test by running a power lead from the battery directly to the coil. No change. I tried the power lead to the other coil connection, and believe I blew out the ignition. It wouldn’t start again.
After speaking with several builders, I was convinced the problem was the Thunderheart. Frank at Black Hawk Motorworks builds a billet bottlecap cone, allowing us to install any Evo ignition to a CrazyHorse, so I headed in that direction. Frank recommended a mid-range S&S cam, which would require new adjustable pushrods, also from S&S. Ultimately, I ordered the S&S Quickee pushrods, so I didn’t need to remove the rockers for installation. Life was looking up. I also ordered a single-fire ignition from Compu-Fire, one of the easiest ignitions to install on the planet.
That’s the complicated direction we’re headed today, the S&S cam installation, the S&S pushrods, the Compu-Fire system install, and the whole unit detailed by Heather New, of New Line engraving.
First, I pulled the Thunderheart ignition, which I grounded to the bottom of the transmission, and we pulled the ignition cam sensor off the front of the engine.
Next, we pulled the pushrod caps and clipped off the pushrods with an old set of shop bolt cutters. The cutters were so old, I had to disassemble the cutters, grind the jaws, learn how to adjust the jaw alignment, and re-assemble the cutters. They worked fine. The S&S instructions always call for disconnecting the battery, which is a damn good idea. It’s always a good idea to run the engine to top dead center (TDC) before clipping the pushrods, so there’s a minimum of pressure on the rods and parts aren’t jettisoned around the shop.
With the stock non-adjustable pushrods out of the way, we could remove the cam, which was also an S&S unit 35-0157. We were going to replace it with an S&S 561V , part number #33-5076 configuration, which was recommended by Frank Aliano of BlackHawk Motorworks in Florida. He has studied and built products for the bottlecap Indian engines for years.
I removed the cam plate fasteners and carefully removed the plates. The BlackHawk Cone came with replacement gaskets and O-rings, but I was careful not to damage anything. The stock S&S cam slipped right out of place, along with the thrust washers. I dug around for more replacement thrust washers for setting up the proper cam clearance.
You need to read the S&S cam installation instructions closely. Depending on the year, the cam lobe height, the model, engine size, etc., you may need to follow different portions of the directions. For instance, S&S recommends that you replace the cam bearings in 1992 and later big twin engines with a Torrington bearing, which has a higher radial load rating and can handle the performance stress.
I replaced the cam several times and checked the clearance with various thrust washers. S&S calls for an endplay measurement of .005-.015. This CrazyHorse 100-inch monster has the new oil pump mounted to the front of the motor, so there was no breather gear alignment issue. I thought it was a breeze and aligned the cam dot with the pinion bearing. There was also a red paint mark on the pinion gear about two teeth from the alignment dot. The red mark was there for gear size when the engine was originally built, not alignment.
But after I bolted up the cam plate, I questioned my alignment and removed the plate again. The cam had two marks on it. One was for a breather and the other for the pinion gear. I needed to make sure I was using the proper indicator for pinion gear alignment.
I ducked through this process several times. Another stumbling block surfaced: the lifters didn’t stay securely in the lifter stools. In the old days, solid lifters stuck well above the stools, so they could be held by hand or with a rubberband while the cam and thrust washers were replaced. I monkeyed with this, even removed the rear lifter stool so I could check the endplay and push two lifters out of the way. Ultimately, a sharpened piece of welding rod, bent just so, helped with the process of holding the cam followers in line.
I bolted up the new cam chest plate, with new O-rings. I made sure to oil the cam bearing surfaces. I had a set of standard S&S adjustable pushrods, which require removing the rocker arm assemblies in an Evo configuration and dropping in the pushrods from the top. I anticipated a problem with this endeavor and ordered a set of S&S Quickee Pushrods for this application. I didn’t want to mess with the engine to create the clearance to remove the rear rocker box.
Again, when I received the instructions, they were broken down for virtually every model available, from Buells to Panheads. I went with the 1984-1999 Big Twin instructions, which call for rotating the engine until the front piston is as top of its stroke, with both front lifters at their lowest position (TDCC–top dead center, compression stroke). If you look in the timing hole of the Crazy Horse engine, a black dot indent emerges at TDCC, so it was a breeze to find. I cleaned the pushrod tubes and replace the O-rings with a light coat of oil, inserted the new pushrods through the tube assemblies, and installed each one in the proper position.
I extended the adjusting screw to remove all the lash in the pushrod, then compressed the hydraulic unit in the exhaust lifter four complete turns or 24 flats, then tightened the lock nut (Frank recommended 4.25 turns). Then you are required to wait 5 to 10 minutes before adjusting the intake pushrod, so the valves don’t run into each other. After the waiting period, the pushrods should turn with fingertips.
I repeated the above procedure for the rear cylinder, and then replaced the cover clips and spark plugs. The instructions called to starting the motorcycle and checking for leaks. That’s good info. I blew oil all over the place before I discovered a pushrod cover that hadn’t seated properly.
Here are a couple of helpful warnings. First, if you are unsure about the lifters, here’s a way to check it. If you adjust the pushrod down four turns and wait, then try to turn it with your fingertips, and it doesn’t turn, you have hydro-solids.
Next, S&S Quickee pushrods for all big twin engines contain two long and two short pushrods (exhaust-long, intake-short). All Sportster models and Twin Cam 88 pushrods are the same length.
Now I could install the Compu-Fire ignition system. I left the engine in the TDC position for this maneuver. Compu-Fire has several systems, including single fire, dual-fire, and kick-start units. You can remove your point system and drop in one of these puppies in a flash. The system is a breeze to tune and it’s and all-in-one unit in the cone.
I’ve known the boss of Compu-Fire, Martin Tesh, for a couple of decades. He knows his shit when it comes to these simple, easy-to-tune, solid-state units. The unit comes with complete instructions, but basically, you replace the cam plate, install the ignition plate in the cone with a drop of Loctite, and run the wiring harness to the coil. Install three wires, tune the bastard with the supplied magnets, and you’re good to go. It even has switch settings to allow you to adjust the timing curve at 35 degrees before top dead center at 1500 rpm, to 35 degrees at 3500 or 4,000 rpm, depending on the model. You flick a switch, test ride it, and it’s set.
Here are the official Compu-Fire ignition installation requirements. First, I cleaned out the pristine Black Hawk timing cavity. I didn’t need to worry about the seal, it was brand-new. I installed the trigger with the long supplied Allen screw, and checked the gap between the trigger and the ignition plate. It seemed excessive, so I checked it again, and installed the supplied shim to tighten the gap. I aligned the trigger with the notch and torqued the Allen screw to 25 inch-pounds. The large round TDC indicator ding in the flywheel was still centered in the timing hole, so I was good to go for timing.
Just to be sure, the locating cam notch falls in the same place for every big twin cam, if the TDC mark is on the compression stroke. It always comes up at 7:00, so I checked it and was good to go. If it wasn’t, I needed to run the engine over one more time to be on the correct compression stroke. It was time to set the timing.
The directions called for turning the ignition switch off and reconnecting the ground wire to the battery. The instructions called for stripping the Compu-Fire red wire and temporarily connecting it to the battery positive terminal. I rotated the timing plate counterclockwise to the full retarded position. The Accu-Ray timing light may be on or off when you start this procedure. I used the disc magnets to turn it off and on by swiping them across the timing plate. It’s like magic. I turned the light off, then rotated the plate clockwise until it popped back on. I did this several times until I could lock the plate in the exact spot where the light came on.
Frank, at Black Hawk suggested that I rotate the plate a hair past the light-on spot to advance the timing slightly. Then I locked the plate down and I was done. Except to install the new Heather New engraved timing plate cover.
I disconnected the hot lead, and then wired the Compu-Fire ignition system in place according to the single-fire wiring diagram with a new Compu-fire single-unit, single-fire coil.
Okay, so I fired the beast up and went for a ride. Same problem. It blubbered at mid-range. It had to be a carburetor issue, so I yanked the S&S and installed a Mikuni 42-mm slide carb. I pulled it out onto the street, fired it up, adjusted the mid range air nozzle and the idle screw, and slammed the tank shifter into first. She popped but ran like a top.
That did it. It had to be a jetting issue, but then an uncustomary California storm rolled in, and it rained solid for a week. Hell, it’s rained for six weeks in Brisbane, Australia. And we thought we had flooding issues. I’ve been working with Paul Cavallo and his teams at Spitfire on our 2011 bike build efforts. I’ve had the privilege to speak often to his main builder, Larry Scrotum, a guy who has been building bikes for as long as I’ve been writing about them. Just recently, during a break in the weather, I mentioned my problem to him, and he was the first to come up with real solutions.
It could still be the Crime scene air cleaner and the way it’s positioned, leaving the choke vent open. He says the air rushing over it causes a problem with the fuel delivery inside. I needed to block off the outside vent and take the Allen screw out of the underside of the body adjacent to the vent. I’ll let you know what happens next. He also made a tuning suggestion regarding the air bleed vent in the float bowel. I’ll let you know the outcome.
Contacts:
CrazyHorse
http://www.crazyhorsemotorcycles.com/
Black Hawk Motorworks
http://www.blackhawkmotorworks.com/
New-Line Engraving
http://www.new-lineengraving.com/
Compu-Fire
http://www.compufire.com/
Mudflap Girl Part 1, the Concept
By Robin Technologies |
Life is nuts, or is it just me? Fortunately, we have motorcycles and women to chase. And this year became the year of the Evo, the FXR, and the mudflap girl. I’m scratching the back of my head and wondering how to kick off this build for 2011. There’s a lot on the plate this year and it’s a tad difficult to explain. First, I must fess up. I’m turning 63 this year and no more riding rigids to Sturgis, or even chasing young broads. Ah, but the adventure continues. It’s actually a blessing not to be hassled with women troubles. I’ll let my son, who just turned 37, deal with the addiction to soft curves. I’ll hide out and watch…
Speaking of my son, Frank, he’s riding to Sturgis with me this year, but we’ll carve into the background of this story. It’s his first trip to the Badlands, and who knows how many times I’ve fought the crowds on Main Street during August.
But let’s back up a bit. Recently, I was in a spot and had to sell my 2003 Road King, which I’d planned to keep for the duration. The 100th anniversary King was my second attempt at a touring motorcycle.
The solution for my missing long distance rider was an FXR, and I have one, the John Reed V-Bike that I took to Bonneville in 2006 and set a 141-mph record with a top speed over 150. Unfortunately, I have a hip problem and can’t ride mid-control bikes anymore. I even modified that puppy, but that didn’t do the trick. I love that bike. So, what the fuck was I going to do?
Here’s the sidebar to this story: We have an on-going debate between the old school camp and the Twin Cam aficionados. Many of us feel the Evolution-based FXR was the shit, the most simplistic V-twin configuration, the most reliable, best-handling Harley-Davidson to be born in Milwaukee. So we started forming a plan in our feeble brains for 2011.
Initially, this effort was enabled by Rogue, a long time brother, who worked for Quantum cycles in Florida for several years. I bought a couple of Kenny Boyce-based Pro-Street frames from him. We built our shrunken FXR with one while the other collected dust in our shop until I needed a rubbermounted bike to ride.
Okay, so I started to piece this bike together. We factory re-manufactured a ’98 Evo engine and JIMS rebuilt the transmission into a six-speed. I had a couple of Renegade Wheels and Progressive Suspension shocks. Then I had a conversation with Kenny Boyce, the man who designed the Pro-street FXR frame. He wasn’t happy with now-defunct Quantum. I also found out that some of these frames break in front of the seat area at the backbone. The project was moving forward with a Custom Chrome, super-wide, upside down front end, Aeromach risers, and we added super wide, Burly bar highbars.
I even had an aluminum mudflap girl oil tank I ordered from Nick at New York Choppers. The bike was leaning toward a pro street touring model with a set of Redneck Softail fiberglass saddlebags and a Klockwerks touring bike rear fender.
I was rolling when Kim Hottinger called and asked if I could haul my old ass out to the American Built/Spitfire manufacturing facility in Rancho Cucamonga, California. Paul Cavallo was the engineer/manufacturing guru behind Hellbound steel. As we watched the production chopper industry dry up, in the wake of a floundering economy, only the diehard survived, and I wanted to support anyone who understood the code of the west.
The brothers who love motorcycles, choppers, bobbers, and custom parts continued to jump up every morning and do what they adore, work on motorcycles. Some went from building hundreds of bikes every month to a handful, but they kept building. Paul downsized and kept rolling with his father at his side. When I saw what he was up to, I was inspired. He can build any frame, for any motorcycle configuration, so my mind went wild. We could build a Frisco’d and stretched, single-loop FXR, and I dragged an old Durfee girder out to his facility so Paul could see how the master built the originals. Imagine an FXR with a state-of-the-art girder.
Paul is a wild man when it comes to building and manufacturing anything. He re-engineered the girder and refined the looks, and added two shock mounts to incorporate a state-of-the-art front suspension. Over the next year, you’re going to witness Paul’s Spitfire abilities with features in several national magazines, and you’ll begin to see his products pop up in Custom Chrome catalogs.
At one time, Paul made many of the WCC products. Now, some of them will hit the streets under the Spitfire name. So suddenly, we were building a one of a kind Frisco’d and stretched single-loop frame with a Spitfire girder front end.
Hang on for this next move. I decided that since I wanted to build my son a hot rod Harley to park in front of his tattoo shop, Body Electric Tattoo on Melrose, in Hollywood, this was going to be the machine, since he’s too much of a wimp to ride a rigid.
The more we moved forward with this bike, the more inspired I became. This was a bike for me, maybe the bike for my old-guy riding future, now that my Road King was down the road. So I went to Paul with the deal of the century: build two of these frames and front ends. I spoke to Paul, then to my son.
There had to be a goal behind this effort. We would ride to Sturgis together. Shit started to happen fast and I ran into a TV producer who wanted to follow the build, and Leomark studios got involved.
Next, I reached out to Chris Kallas and we started to work up a concept drawing. Here’s some of the e-mail that flew back and forth.
Here’s my initial description:
FXR style frame: Single-loop look, two down tubes bent together to form a single-loop style. Stretched 5 up and 2 out, about a 33-degree rake. Stretched Sporty-like gas tanks, Spitfire girder front ends
Frank’s bike: classic black mag wheels from Metalsport. Klock Werks rear dresser fender on Frank’s, might bob it. Both wheels will be mild width. Mudflap girl theme on my bike and Hardball tattoo on Frank’s. Paint reversed from Frank’s bike to mine. Forward controls on my ride, Frank’s will run mid controls. Rubber pegs, grips. dog bone-style tall rubber mount risers. Shotgun pipes. One Redneck bag on the left of Frank’s bike. We also talked about a small front fender.
–Bandit
Some questions?
Black and chrome or silver Evo engine?
Your wheels? Mag or spokes, what kind?
Style/brand of headlight, tail light?
The risers are the type with rubber mount at top?
Carb/aircleaner?
Shot gun pipes, staight, no mufflers?
Style of seat?
Your fender the same not bobbed?
Brakes? Dual or single up front? What brand of rotor/caliper?
If any of these things aren’t specific yet, they could be semi generic on art.
If you can send any photos or links to of fenders, wheels, bags, brakes or controls, it would be helpful.
As for paint, just a thought.
sately I’ve been leaning toward dark metallic blue and off-white.
It looks good with lots of black or aluminum, and chrome.
It also looks good with your signature orange accents or striping. Since I’m not crazy for white frames, they could both have blue frames and just flop the two-tone paint on the tanks and fenders.
— CK 
Here’s the basic FXR platform showing the frame modifications.
This is with a 3″ extended swing arm.
I need to go back and recheck some measurements but it will give you a
rough idea of the stretch up front.
Is this the type of exhaust setup you were thinking of?
When you said shotgun and 2-into-1, I wasn’t sure.
— Chris K.
I think we should go with this type of exhaust, if we plan to pack passengers. I’m going to ask Dar about that swingarm, but my tendency is to extend it about 1.5 inches, not 3. The stretch looks great. Let’s fuck with those fender rails, arch them, or make them disappear and bob the fender slightly. Plus I think we will need to lower the rear at least an inch, with shorter shocks.
–Bandit
Hey, here’s my first crack at putting it all together. Overall the stance looks good. Since it’s a rough draft without much decoration, I just threw a couple
of mud flap girls on it. I thought I’d try a traditional Sportster/FX headlight with it’s rubber- mounted bulb to stay with the theme of using rubber pegs, grips, and
rubber mounted-risers…. not to mention a rubber-mounted engine, plus I like them.
The frame tube behind the shocks creates a challenge for curved fender struts. I’ve included a couple of photos of some frames so you can check out that area, plus for general interest I tried mounting the tank higher (Frisco style) but thought this looked better.
You might use a semi-later model Sporty tank (when they first started making them larger but still had a carb).
I don’t know at what angle or how Spitfire plans to deal with the secondary neck brace under the tank, so just drew it how I thought it might go.
When you said a Fantasy in Iron tear drop air cleaner I took that to mean a plain Goodson (no rib), for engraving. (We now have a Roger Goldammer air cleaner for Frank’s bike)
Since you need to run a front fender, I made it small. I like when they show most of the top of the tire.
Questions:
Who’s handlebar and foot controls do you plan on using?
How about brake calipers?
–CK
Hey, Chris,
I feel like I want more attitude. How about the tank mounted in line with the bottom of the top bar and stretched a tad at the back to more of a point? Take out the stress bar and add a gusset there with a mudflap girl cut out.
Check the news. I ran a shot of the air cleaner, but you nailed it. Did you check out the heavy green flake and silver bike? I like that theme. My bike will have a plain engine. I thought that style worked well with the plain silver, driveline. And I liked the green springer to match the frame.
We don’t need to go with green. It could be almost anything and silver, then reversed for Franks, with a silver frame, and colored sheet metal.
–Bandit
If the Redneck bags wouldn’t fit, we looked at what Bob T. runs on his fantastic RT.
Part number for bags:
’87-90 FXRS conv bags
H-D 90702-89 left
90703-89
As you can see we are flying at this effort. Don’t miss the frame build in the next segment. As it turns out Frank and I will be running the same drivelines: JIMS six-speed transmissions and Harley-Davidson Evo engines.
Sources:
Mudflap Girl Part 2, the Bandit Engine and Spitfire update
By Robin Technologies |
Okay, you have the story behind this build, and Chris Kallas is refining the concept drawing. My engine arrived from the factory, and Eric Bennett immediately noticed the return address, in Viola, Wisconsin.
As it turns out, the factory hired the S&S crew to assemble their Evo line of engines. What a natural. I liked that notion all the way around the block. First, it means more American hands in my new engine. Plus, what could be better than to have the best performance engine company on the planet working with the factory on the last and most refined V-twin configuration?
For this crew, and lots of riders all over the world, the FXR Evo is the best of the best. So, for Bikernet, this became the year of the FXR and the Evo engine. I asked the factory about their Evo engine program and received the following information.
A Modicum of Harley Engine History
The first 74 cubic-inch V-Twin engine on the JD and FD models was introduced in 1921 and the 45 cubic-inch side-valve V-twin engine (later to be known as the Flathead) on the D model debuted in 1929. The Flathead engine proved so reliable that variations of it were available on Harley-Davidson motorcycles as late as 1973 (servi-car trikes).
In 1936, Harley-Davidson introduced the EL model with an overhead valve, 61-cubic-inch engine. With increased horsepower and bold styling changes, the motorcycle earned the Knucklehead nickname, due to the shape of its rocker boxes.
New features were added to the 61 and 74 overhead valve engines in 1948, including aluminum heads and hydraulic valve lifters. New one-piece, chrome-plated rocker box covers shaped like cake pans earned this engine the nickname Panhead. The engine introduced on the Electra Glide models in 1966 to replace the Panhead became known as the Shovelhead, again due to the shape of its rocker covers.
In 1984, Harley-Davidson unveiled the 1340cc V” Evolution engine on five models including the all-new Softail. The result of seven years of development, the Evolution engine produced more power at every speed, ran cooler, cleaner, and was oil-tight. Also witnessed is the debut of the Softail design and its trend-setting method of “hiding” the motorcycle’s rear shock absorbers.
Over the years, we heard two interesting facts. Porche designed the Evo engine, and if it wasn’t for the financial support of AMF during a slow period of H-D development, the Evo would have never seen the market. The Evo engine of today is at the crest of a 77-year development cycle and the factory got it right in so many respects. Sure, the Twin Cam has more performance capabilities, but the Evo is the best, simplest, most refined version of the original. We’re voting Evo for 2011.
1340CC Evolution Softail Engine – Silver and Polished SPECS
Type: 4-cycle, 45 degree V-twin
Bore X Stroke: 3.498 X 4.250
Displacement: 80 cubic inches or 1340 cc
Compression: 8.5:1
Torque ratings at 3,500 rpms: Touring with fuel injection, 83 ft./lb.
Touring w/carb 77 ft./lb. @ 4000 rpm
Dyna/Softail 79/76 ft./lb.
Miles per gallon: 50 hwy/ 43 city with a touring model using a carb
55 hwy/ 43 city Dyna or Softail
Variety and sales info:
1340CC Evolution Softail Engine – Silver and Polished
Since the first single-cylinder built in 1903, engines have been the heart and soul of Harley-Davidson history. Each motor has made its unique contribution, and the V2 Evolution engine is no exception. With the Smart Start Engine Program, buying a new Evolution engine has never been easier. When replacing your Evolution motor, Smart Start offers brand-new, factory-tested engines at an unbeatable price. Choose the standard silver and polished Evolution, sinister black, the classic black and chrome or the silver and chrome finish. Either way, you won’t just be making a new start; you’ll be making a smart start.
16161-99
IN-STORE PURCHASE ONLY, Contact dealer for pricing and availability.
Fits all ’99 Softail models. Does not include carburetor, manifold or timer cover.
MSRP US $3,295.00
1340CC Evolution Softail Engine – Black and Chrome
16160-99
IN-STORE PURCHASE ONLY, Contact dealer for pricing and availability.
Fits all ’99 Softail models. Does not include carburetor, manifold or timer cover.
MSRP US $3,995.00
1340CC Evolution Softail Engine – Silver and Chrome
16177-99
IN-STORE PURCHASE ONLY, Contact dealer for pricing and availability.
Fits all ’99 Softail models. Does not include carburetor, manifold or timer cover.
MSRP US $3,495.00
When my engine arrived, I immediately hauled it in the Bikernet Hearse to Bennett’s Performance for a slight performance upgrade. I needed to let that puppy breath without messing with the reliability aspect. Sharing the same building on the edge of Signal Hill, California is the headquarters for Branch O’Keefe. John O’Keefe worked for Jerry Branch for decades and ultimately bought the business when Jerry Branch decided to retire.
We’re looking at several options for stock engines and for rebuilds. We have three touring models coming together right now, and they are all 80-inchers. One for my son, my factory motor, and Dr. Hamsters 200,000-mile Evo rebuild by Bennett’s.
I’m running the brand-new factory plain Evo engine with the Andrews EV-27 cam and Andrews chrome-moly adjustable pushrods for less flex, a new cam bearing and the Branch flowed stock heads, for 8.9:1 compression, 78 cc Branch-flowed chambers, and 75-80 horses at 2,600 rpms.
The next higher upgrade step from Branch is the EV-51 cam and additional headwork and shaved heads for a 10:1 compression and 85 horses at the same rpms. And finally, a customer can run with an EV-59 Andrews cam and 10.5:1 compression and 90-95 horses. Not bad for never taking the barrels off.
“I like rpms,” John O’Keefe said, “and the new ignitions allow these engines to burn more fuel and bring out the horses.”
The key to all this performance is the headwork set to match the cam, and John O’Keefe has studied this science for most of his life. The key is building a mid-range hot rod without sacrificing reliability.
The first move was to strip the engine and deliver my fresh factory heads to the Branch team. Eric Bennett set my beautiful, plain H-D Evo engine on his clean room bench and removed the top motormount, the top rocker box that came off with the middle ring. We noticed much improved, one-piece factory Teflon gaskets. We won’t mess with them. Then Eric removed the rockers, the pushrods, pushrod tubes and rocker boxes. We also retrieved the new base gaskets to reuse.
Then he removed the head bolts, the front head, and the rear head. I had already purchased the Andrews EV-27 cam from Branch O’Keefe, and Eric and I started to prepare for installation. He removed the point cover, ignition, and cam sensor.
He had a terrific Trock tool for removing the cone cover. It’s always a bastard to try to carve around the narrow gasket surface with a screwdriver or a knife, hoping to find opening and risk damage to the cases or create a leak by scratching the gasket surface.
“We always replace the new factory cam bearing,” Eric said, “with a full compliment Torrington bearing. The factory ran the good ones from ’55 to ’92, then they shifted to a cheapo brand. It’s also not a bad idea to replace the factory plastic breather gear with a solid JIMS unit.”
I scrambled to take notes and photographs while Eric peeled into my engine. He popped a factory set of magnetic tools into the lifter stools to hold the lifters up during cam removal. I wish I had a set of those puppies.
“It’s interesting,” Eric said. “Virtually every stock cam is .060 longer than any aftermarket cam.”
Eric pre-measures the cams and adjusts the thrust washers before replacing the cam, which you will see in the next report, when we study the Branch recipe for performance, the headwork, and modifications. He replaces the valve seats for larger valves, then ports and polished the chambers. You won’t believe the long-lasting components Branch uses.
Then we will watch Eric replace the stock cam with the Andrews unit and adjustable pushrods, and put the whole Evo puppy back together. “Don’t forget to order a top end gasket set,” Eric reminded me as the rain cut loose outside and I wondered if this winter season would ever end. I need a ride.
Then Eric grabbed a JIMS tool and a couple of wrenches and in 30 seconds pulled the cheap cam bearing from the new cases.
“I’ve seen these go south in 10,000 miles,” Eric said. “I’ll never understand why they replaced a perfectly good quality bearing with this junk.”
Just as quickly Eric took an aluminum guide and a mallet and tapped the new bearing in place, another 10 seconds passed, and we were finished.
A couple of days passed and I thought, just maybe my frames and front ends would be completed at Spitfire. On a hunch, I peeled 57 miles away from the coast in the hearse while listening to KJazz on the radio.
It was quiet as I wandered into the vast machine shop, welding shop, bike assembly area and ran into Joe Cavallo, Paul’s dad, who was hunting around the shop for Softail brake anchor brackets. He greeted me and said something about shop organization. The Spitfire and American Made business model has faced serious transformations over the last couple of years.
As I mentioned before, Paul was the partner and manufacturing arm of Hellbound Steel motorcycles. American Made manufactured fast moving products for a bunch of now defunct companies such as WCC. At one time, they were building hundreds of choppers each month, and thousands of products in a much larger facility. During the last year, they adjusted their business model and tightened their facility. They rewired their building, replumbed it with compressed air lines, and kept building products.
It’s tough to stop everything and regroup, scour through boxes of tools, base material, parts, and junk. With a skeleton crew they are still building any frame a customer needs, including big twins, rigid Sporty frames, British custom frames, and even frames for Yamaha 650s and Honda fours. They also build an entire line of forward controls, gas tanks, handlebars, girders, and glide front ends (bowling pin), pegs, oil tanks (a variety of styles), trees and taillights. Paul is the mad scientist of the group. As a kid, he manufactured exotic gun cases.
He’s the kind of guy who will catch a notion in a cup of Starbucks coffee, in the morning and by the evening, he has a new product. It’s not a one-off either. It’s fully designed and configured for multi-manufacturing.
Some of his crew have been working with Paul and his dad for decades, including Larry, who is their master motorcycle assembly guru. He knows it all. “Pull the alternator rotor off that engine before you run it,” Larry told me. “Check the wires for twists or tears.”
I made a note. Then we made our way into the frame jig area to see the FXR frame progress. The FXR fever caught on and there were at least five FXR frames in the making. The first was based on the pro-street configuration with additional gussets, the squished wishbone, for the single-loop notion and 36 degrees of rake for a 2-inch longer girder front end.
They discovered some issues with my request for a V-style frame in keeping with the stock FXR configuration. I also hoped for less rake and a shorter Frisco style girder front end style. Paul was working on my unit with a 30 or 33 degree rake, but he also started building a couple of drop seat FXR frames, including one for himself.
We are also going to try a slightly longer swingarm suggested to us by Dar, the boss of Brass Balls for his FXR configuration. He wanted to pull the rear tire out of the frame some, and I was willing to try it. They are hot after these frames, since Paul plans to ride one on the Diablo run that kicks off on May 5th in Temecula, California and rolls toward the border. Don’t know if we will make it.
The plan for now is to pick up the frames, swingarms, axles, and Spitfire girders, on Friday April 8th. Between now and then, hopefully we will wrap up the engine and bring that puppy home to the headquarters. We are trying to match up these Mudflap Girl FXRs wherever possible, but not always. We are going to run long and short dogbone risers from Custom Cycle Engineering, but we’ve ordered a new set of Raw 2-into-1 performance pipes from Bub for Frank’s FXR, and I’m running a D&D 2-into-1 system. I’m running a Frisco’d and stretched tank and he’s running something completely different. He’s running a Klockwerks rear fender and I’m running something bobbed. I’m getting seriously ahead of myself. See you in a couple of weeks with the next report.
–Bandit
Sources:
Bennett’s Performance
Branch O’Keefe
Biker’s Choice
JIMS
Spitfire
Custom Cycle Engineering
D&D
Bubs
Harley-Davidson
Rivera Primo Inc.
Belt Drive Unlimited
Metal Sport Wheels
Don’t miss the next chapter: http://www.bikernet.com/pages/story_detail.aspx?id=9155