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Read More Bikernet Project: Widowmaker Charity Build, Part 4
By Robin Technologies |
We are back at the Widowmaker Custom Design & Repair shop for final assembly of our bike. Everything has come back from paint, powder coat, etc. Now comes the patience part of our build, reassembly. At this point you need to have a plan of attack. Hopefully you took note of how you removed certain items so that your assembly is smooth without and scratches. Let us get started.
Item One: Where to start? I generally start by getting the bike back into a rolling state. But this can all hinge on your choice of engine. For Harleys and most v-twin engines this is the best approach. This is the way we approached our setup with the Yamaha Roadstar drivetrain.
However, if you are working with an inline 4-cylinder metric engine you might want to come up with another approach. What I have done in the past is to lay the engine on the floor, on its side. Tape off the areas of your frame that will be near or possibly come in contact with the frame and lay your frame over the top of the engine, at which time you can install all your mounting hardware. This will make it easier to install the engine without damage to the painted surfaces; however it will make it more difficult to get the bike into a rolling state.
One of the things people overlook is the proper set up of your fork bearing. I suggest going to the fork mfg. to get the proper bearing preload. However, a good rule of thumb is for your fall away to be 1 inch. Real easy to check. With your front end on bike and wheel installed and front of bike off the ground, simply move the front tire to a left turn position from center. From center to the point it starts to fall by itself without assistance should be 1 inch. Make sure you check left and right. Next is to tighten or loosen your triple tree stem bolt/nut until you get the desired results.
Item Two: Now is time for your driveline fitment. At this point I would suggest installing all the parts needed to complete your driveline. Start with your primary (if you are using an H-D unit). Alignment of your engine to transmission is critical. Once all is put together, chain/belt and brake install next.
One of the most common issues we see is improper wheel and brake caliper alignment. If your belt is not tracking true you will eat up belts. If you are using aftermarket calipers, it is critical that the caliper is centered over the rotor. You may have to shim your caliper to achieve this. If you don’t take the time to do this, the caliper and rotor can be damaged after a short period of time riding. Watch what brake fluid you use.. Know what the brake mfg. requirements are. Should be DOT 4 and DOT 5. In our case we were able to use all DOT 5 fluid.
Item Three: Now you’re ready to plumb the bike. Time to install your oil tank and remaining large items, such as your starter, headlight, etc. Plan ahead; you want your oil lines to be not only functional but appealing to the eye. Keep in mind that if you are using stainless steel braided hoses to make sure they are clear of any rubbing issues. A vibrating braided hose can become a saw on top of paint or aluminum. Do not put any fluids in your bike just yet; you may need to remove the tank for ease of wiring.
Item Four: Hands down, the largest area people struggle with is wiring. You can use a stock wiring harness, this works well if you are dealing with a metric bike as we did. However, be prepared to make modifications to the stock harness. I would suggest having a service manual for the brand of engine you are working with. This will make your life easier. If you are not and you’re planning on making your own harness, I would suggest owning a meter and have a clear understanding as how to use it.
I cannot stress enough to plan ahead.
I cannot stress enough to plan ahead.
The best way to handle this is by drawing up your own wiring schematic, making a list of all the items you are using. This will give you a visual to go by. In our case we used the stock wiring harness, with some modifications to make everything work. Then we added a great product, “Grip Ace.”
The “Grip Ace” makes for a super clean and simple install without the dopey look of stock switch housings. If you are not familiar with this product, visit them at www.gripace.com. This product allows you to have all of your bike functions literally at your fingertips of your left hand. The system is compiled of a four button key pad that is installed on your left hand grip and a slim line module that can easily hidden almost anywhere on your bike.
The wiring is super simple. Once your left hand grip is fitted with the key pad, run your preformed wire and plug through your bars and plug into the module. All of your bike functions are wired to the module. The unit comes with clean and clear wiring instructions and easy to follow schematics. On our bike, we chose to keep the system super clean and mounted our key pad to the inside tunnel of the gas tank. As for the rest of your wiring, test each circuit as you assemble it. Try not to rely on butt connectors, solder as many of your wire connections as possible and keep in mind the serviceability of the bike. Make sure that future removal of the headlight and rear fender can be done by unplugging the wiring rather than cutting it.
Item Five: Last pieces of the puzzle, installation of the tins. This can be the most rewarding part of the job, seeing your new bike in all its glory or it can be a bad day and a trip back to the painter. Make sure you take your time in this installation. Make good choices of hardware. I personally like to use rubber washers on painted surfaces so as not damage the paint with the installation of the mounting hardware. Once everything is hooked up, top off your fluids and add only enough fuel to get the bike running. I suggest this in case there is a an issue of a gas leak or oil leak that may require you to remove the tank.
Once everything has checked out, get out and enjoy that first test ride. Make it short, come back, check everything over. Once all is good, pack up and enjoy your new ride.
Rebirth of an American Classic: The Build Begins
By Robin Technologies |
After months of planning, my 1933 Harley-Davidson build officially started on Black Friday. That’s when I made the long trip up to Replicant Metals (www.replicantmetals.com), located a mere 7 hours north of me in Pennsylvannia. Owner Tom Feezer was waiting for me with a set of matched 1933 VL cases when I walked into the shop. These will serve as the basis for my build and are the most important part as the VIN number stamped on these cases is what makes the motorcycle a ’33 model. I plan to stay true to what the factory produced in ’33, but technically anything I build with these cases will be titled as a ’33 Harley-Davidson.
Setting aside the cases, I started making a pile of the other parts: heads, cylinders, cams, flywheels, rods and cam cover. Everything needed a trip through the blasting cabinet to knock off 80 years of built up grease and grime. Before loading up the blast cabinet, some of the parts needed to be broken down further, including the cases and the cam cover.
Starting with the cases, there were still some cylinder studs which needed to be removed.
Normally, I’d just use the old two nut trick to back them out, but Tom actually had a specialty tool from Snap-On for removing them. The tool comes with a number of collets which are sized for different thread pitches and bolt diameters. You screw the collet onto the stud and then slide a collar down over the collet. The opposite end of the collet in threaded on the outside, which allows you to screw a nut onto which forces the collar down the collet. As the collar slides down the collet, it tightens the collet onto the stud. Once the collet is secured onto the stud, you just unscrew the entire set up as one piece. The result is easy stud removal without damaging the stud or the case.
The idler gear and shaft also needed to be removed which was accomplished by first removing the retaining ring which keeps the gear on the shaft. After removing the retaining ring, the idler gear slid right off without any problems. The shaft proved to be a trickier to get out, but we were able to carefully pry it out after threading a bolt into the end of it. Using blocks of wood to protect the case, a small pry bar was slipped under the bolt head to pry out the shaft.
Next I turned my attention to the cam cover, which turned out to be the most complicated part to disassemble. Unlike modern motorcycles, the VL cam cover is used to houses the oil pumps and timer. All of these parts are held in with flathead screws, so special attention was paid not to damage them. The first step was to give everything a get soak in Kroil penetrating lubricant.
That did the trick for all but one screw. In the end, it took careful heating of the cam cover with a torch to break that last screw loose. These parts had enough surface grease on them that the needed to be cleaned in lacquer thinner to get them to a state suitable for putting in the blast cabinet.
Now I had enough parts to get started on the blasting process. The cabinet was filled with a fine grain aluminum oxide medium, which is gentle enough not to cause serious damage to the aluminum. Still, it was important to keep the gun moving back and forth to make sure that no one spot was cleaned to aggressively and to keep the overall color and surface texture even. As a precaution, I also taped over the VIN number just to make sure that it wasn’t damaged as well as plugging all the bushing holes.
About half a day was spent blasting the cases, cam cover, oil pumps, timer parts, connecting rods and flywheels before I moved onto the cams. The V-series engine uses four gear driven cams, much like a modern Sportster, each cam as one lobe which opens either and exhaust or an intake valve. Upon close inspection of my cams, I discovered that the worm gear on cam #4, which drives the oil pump, was damaged.
This is an easy fix if you have a replacement shaft available. On V-series cams, the shafts are pressed onto the gear/lobe clusters, so to make this repair I just had to press out the damaged shaft and press in a replacement. Harley designed these cams with an alignment tab, so they can only be assembled in the correct orientation.
When the repair was complete, the cams went into the blast cabinet to clean up the gears. I was careful not to blast any surfaces that would come in contact with the bushings in the case or cam cover.
Lastly I turned my attention to the cylinders and heads. The cylinders were in good shape, without any broken fins and only bored .005” and .010” over stock. All they required was removing the old hi-temp paint from the external surfaces in the blast cabinet. The heads had some minor fin damage which is very common on flatheads. Fins can be easily snapped off when removing the heads if the wrong tool is used.
Since the damage to my heads was not extensive, I decided to use a die grinder to smooth out the broken fins. Once painted, they should blend together nicely and it will take careful inspection to spot the damaged areas.
The heads were placed in the blast cabinet for final cleaning. To help protect my freshly cleaned heads and cylinders, they were all sprayed with an aircraft primer made by Tempo. Don’t be alarmed by the green color, they’ll get top coated black.
After a few pictures were taken, everything was boxed up to be sent out to the machine shop for inspection. After the machinist gives the ok on these parts, they’ll come back to the shop for a final cleaning to remove any debris left by the blasting process. Then it will be time to rebuild the engine.
Editors Note:
If you would like to contribute to the completion of this bike please use the link below.
This project started on Black Friday of 2013 with just a set of engine cases and will end with a complete 1933 Harley-Davidson VL making a cross country run in the fall of 2014. Already a great deal of progress has been made on the restoration of this motorcycle, but more funding is needed to see this project through to the end. Additional articles will continue throughout the remainder of this build and will result in a complete digital archive which takes the reader through the restoration of a 1933 Harley-Davidson, step by step. By making this information available freely online, future vintage motorcycle enthusiasts will be able to rebuild and maintain these great machines.
We have already gained the support of many of the top compaines in the vintage motorcycle industry. If you would like to see your company’s logo included not only on the motorcycle, but also on every article, please contact me directly to learn more about our marketing campaign and advertising opportunities. EMAIL
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Bennett’s Performance 2004 Dyna Build 106-Incher
By Robin Technologies |
Eric Bennett grabbed the shop door chain and hoisted the roll up door for the first time, in 2000. He started his mechanical career as a certified diesel mechanic with 60-weight always flowing through his blood stream. Finally, he gave into his entrepreneurial spirit and his desire to make motorcycles his life—he opened his own shop on Signal Hill. The rest is motorcycle history, much of it spent at the Bonneville Salt Flats with his dad, Bob.
He recently owned a modified twin cam FLH, but a customer made him a deal he couldn’t refuse, so he let it go. Then a deal on a Dyna surfaced and he made a quick move to snatch it. This time, he decided he would take it to the concrete and rebuild every aspect of the bike to be moderately fast, ultimately reliable, precise, and built with absolutely all the best mechanical intentions and components in mind. You get to see the 106-inch project unfold before your very eyes right here.
One of the benefits of running a service center in the largest city in Los Angeles County includes encountering every possible mechanical malady and the ability to research whatever solution might be necessary. Since LA is also the motorcycle media hub, he has constant opportunities to test anything new on the market. After working on Twin Cams since their introduction into the market in 1998, Eric has watched every configuration, modification, performance recipe, and model roll in and out of his shop.
With this build he could pour every lesson and improvement into his own ride. It started as a bone stock 2004, 88 cubic inch TwinCam. Eric could choose from any hot rod configuration in the world, but he chose to roll with a 106-inch kit from S&S and Branch re-tuned heads. He started the process by installing a JIMS Timken conversion into his left case and welding his crankpin into the S&S lower end after it was balanced.
“With superior S&S flywheels, I didn’t need to monkey with the cases,” Eric said.
He bored the stock barrels from 3 ¾ to 3 7/8 inches and increased his stroke from 4 inches to 4.5. With JIMS tools he pressed in the JIMS race (using green Loctite) (9-59-1) while keeping his fixture perfectly flat and the hole in the race at 12 o’clock.
Using a JIMS fixture tool, he was able to drill guide holes in the case for Timken bearing and race oiling. The JIMS tool holds the drill and guides it. The drills are set to indicate the depth. Otherwise, he would need to use transfer punches and a milling machine. Then he used another JIMS tool to drill for the race fastener holes, and used tap guides to prevent misalignment.
“I’ve made tap guides for every size tap,” Eric said.
One of the benefits of the higher quality Timken lower end bearings is their ability to lock the lower-end into place.
“I have never seen a Timken bearing fail,” Eric said. Until recently Timken’s were used since 1957. “I’ve seen dozens of roller bearing failures!”
The cost saving shift to roller bearings started in 2003 during the 100th anniversary season. “The best Twin Cams were built in 2002,” Eric confirmed. “Better engines, still carbureted and with 1-inch axles for strength and stability.”
Eric used red Loctite on the race screws. He uses a tool for installing both Timken races at the same time. Kelly McKernnan, an amazing machinist out of Portland, Oregon, manufactured it.
The next phase included welding the S&S flywheels. Anytime Eric has a twin cam lower end out of a customer’s bike, he welds the crankpin in place with stainless TIG rod. It doesn’t create much heat and is not a structural weld; it just cements alignment and prevents shifting. He always checks the true after welding.
Next, he installed the Timken bearing by heating the race to expand it, and it slippped over the shaft easily. There is very little endplay in the shaft, just .001-.002-inch. Eric cinched down the top bearing with another JIMS tool, then pressed in the main seal and spacer with yet another JIMS tool.
At this point, we shifted to pressing the new S&S cam bearings into the new heavy-duty Screamin’ Eagle cam plate for hydraulic cam tensioners, but Eric chose to shift to an S&S gear drive system, so he blocked off the oil passages to the hydraulics.
He still ran the larger capacity oil pump with the .585 easy-start cams for midrange power. He could have used the stock plate or SE plate. He also installed S&S piston skirt squirters, which are offset to prevent damage from longer stroke pistons.
He installed Torrington cam bearings in the right case prior to installing the new cams. His plan called for installing a D&D Bob Cat exhaust system, which is 20 pounds lighter than a stock exhaust. D&D pipes come bolted together with all spring clips, flanges, and heat shields in place. “They take like two minutes to install,” Eric said.
“It’s the easiest system I have ever installed,” Eric said. “It comes with the all the components needed and the heat shields in place. No shimming is necessary or egg shaping holes.”
[page break]
Day 2
We took a break for the day and grabbed a beer. But the next day, Eric installed a heavy duty Harley-Davidson pinion shaft bearing kit using a JIMS pinion bearing tool and it was time to slip the cases together with Yamabond on the case edge, while applying assembly lube on the pinion shaft. The case bolts were torqued to 18-22 ft. lb.
“Don’t forget the new oil pump O-ring when installing the high flow H-D pump,” Eric pointed out. Eric has an engine-building quirk. He continually turns the engine over, while rolling through the build process, and constantly tests for changes. “I want to catch anything that might bind early on,” Eric said. We actually ran into a small glitch while installing the cam plate.
But first, he installed the oil pump return gears, and then the separation washer and the spring, before the feed gear. He bolted the cam plate in place with ¼ -20 fasteners torqued to 120-inch- pounds. He used guide pins to help align the oil pump, and turned the engine over while tightening the pump so it would seat itself properly. He tightened two oil pump bolts, then removed the guide pins, and then tightened the other two Allens.
While aligning the cam drive gear dots, he installed the cams and used red Loctite on the drive gear Allen bolts, but used assembly lube on the washer for more accurate torque values and to prevent the bolt from galling against the washer surface for a false torque reading.
As we wrapped up the operation for the day, Eric installed the lifter with the oil holes facing the cam cover, then the guide pins, caskets and covers. No more lifter stools.
[page break]
Day 3
Eric sub-leased a portion of his Signal Hill building to Branch O’Keefe, perhaps the best head porting business in California. I don’t want to put down any performance heads, but Jerry Branch, who is now about 82, built a helluva business around head performance.
Here’s a description of their heads from the Branch-O’Keefe site:
This is where is all began. Branch-O’Keefe is known throughout the industry for legendary cylinder head modification service. Our extensive reworking of stock Harley-Davidson cylinder heads begins with removal of the stock valve seats and guides. Next, the combustion chambers are heliarc welded to add additional aluminum alloy in the combustion chamber and around the valve seats for re-machining.
The valve seat pockets are then machined for larger nickel-chrome valve seats, and the combustion chamber is cut from the stock low compression rectangular shape to the legendary Branch “bathtub” chamber. After cutting the combustion chamber, new oversize valve seats and performance-quality valve guides are installed to tighter than stock tolerances.
The heads then advance to the porting room where the ports are fully hand-ported, blended and polished to Branch’s exacting specifications as proven on the dyno and flow bench. The head’s gasket surface is machined an additional 0.050-inch, which raises compression slightly. Finishing up, new oversize intake and exhaust valves (hard chrome stainless steel with stellite tips, polished face) are installed in bigger seats with a machined race-quality valve job and then hand-lapped. New seals and a high quality high-lift radius spring kit complete the installation.
The Branch O’Keefe head components are damn impressive from the titanium upper collars to the single oval wire spring with more travel and a larger diameter spring material. They have developed heads for JIMS big inch motors that produce 132 horsepower and ft-lb of torque, at an absolutely stock reliability level, even on a B motor. So natch, Eric had John O’Keefe and his master right-hand man, Paul go through his heads. Actually they used a formula they call the Dave Thew head. It’s a nickname for a performance formula. Dave beat everyone with these Branch O’Keefe head configuration. I will outline the different formulas next week.
We started the day installing S&S pistons with wrist pins first, since the oil rings pass over the wrist pin holes. Seems odd, but it’s the nature of the short-skirted piston. “Actually it allows for more skirt on stroker motors and does away with stroker plates,” Eric said. “This piston configuration will keep a stroker running longer.” The oil ring must be positioned with the dimple in the wrist pin area in a particular location to prevent rotation. The S&S pistons use four-piece oil rings with a removable ring land.
Eric installed the bottom compression ring so that the opening faced the exhaust port area. “No gaskets are used on the bottom of the cylinders,” Eric said, “just O-rings.” He compressed the rings carefully, lubed the inside of the freshly bored cylinder and slid the cylinder into place. Then Eric spun the motor over to check for binding. “I can’t wait to hear the D&D pipe.”
Eric started to install the heads using Cometic gaskets. The heads were torqued to Cometic specs and then he set to installing the rocker boxes and the fasteners, which were torqued to 22 foot-pounds. He started from the inside and worked out. Then he slipped in the S&S Quickee-Install intake pushrods for maximum valve opening. “I run premium S&S lifters with travel limiters,” Eric said. “They become solids at high RPMs.”
He tightened each pushrod until the valve slipped off the seat, and then let it bleed down, for about 10 minutes. He backed off the adjustment until he could spin each pushrod (one at a time). Then he backed off just one complete turn or six flats.
These shots were taken before John O’Keefe came up with a crazy notion to machine Twin Cam cylinder fins in a round configuration. Eric was knocked out by the procedure and pulled his barrels for the process.
In the next episode, Eric will slip the beautiful 106-inch Twin Cam into the stock frame, and we will discuss JIMS tools, while replacing the inner primary bearings, the slightly modified Dyna D&D pipe, and then and the new Rivera Primo clutch, the S&S G carb, and a new S&S high flow air cleaners.
Sources:
Bennett’s Performance
S&S
JIMS
Branch O’Keefe
Timbo’s ’64 FL Restoration (Part One)
By Robin Technologies |
Not too long ago, my good friend Timbo approached me with a proposition, restore his 1964 Harley FL, I agreed. Problem was, it’s in a box, literally! So after a brief discussion on exactly what we wanted to do, how much it would cost and the possible value at the end of the rainbow, I started the Hard Ride back from Hell with the old ’64. I picked up the bike, basically a roller and all the boxes of parts that came with it. As you probably expected, this will be a frame up restoration as close to factory specs as I can get it.
There will be some minor changes, which I’ll talk about as we go along. First thing was to lay it all out and take inventory to see what was missing. After some research, I found replacing parts for the ’64 surprisingly easy thanks to J&P Cycle, Biker’s Choice, and the internet. I ordered the Vintage catalog J&P Cycle puts out and started researching parts I needed to replace.
I also found a local polishing company and chrome hardware supplier (needmorechrome.com) to make life easier. Tear down was a snap. Make sure you bag or box all your parts as you go and label what they are, and in some instances what order they go in. It’s not a bad idea to take lots of photographs for future reference. Sometimes a parts manual comes in handy.
After tear down, I started the fun stuff, going through each and every part, each nut and bolt and cleaning them. Some parts and hardware will not be salvageable, so you’ll have to replace them with either new, or good condition used. I found that there is a tons of vendors on line for just about everything you need. Buying new parts from the catalog is not always the best answer, especially if you’re on a budget like I am.
So shop around, do some research, you may be able to save as much as 50% sometimes. You will also need repair manuals and a few restoration guides like the one my friend Bandit sent me for reference from Wolfgang publishing, thanks Bandit. It has been very useful so far. This is the first of many articles on this restoration project. As the months progress, I’ll try and give you a detail look at what’s involved with a full-blown restoration.
Tail Gunner out for now, see ya next month!
Here’s the link to the next Chapter: http://www.bikernet.com/pages/Timbos__64_FL_Restoration_Part_Two.aspx
Bikernet/Cycle Source Sweeps Build Part 4 Sponsored by Xpress
By Robin Technologies |
You’ve been watching this sweepstakes bike come together for four episodes. A terrific chopper industry team was established to build you a one-off, world-class custom motorcycle. What could be better? Just fill out a coupon or subscribe to Cycle Source or Bandit’s Cantina on Bikernet, and you could enjoy this puppy forever.
This segment will demonstrate again the level of quality craftsmanship and passion for our industry guiding this magnificent motorcycle project. We have some fun with these articles, but the level of talent and engineering directed at this motorcycle is impressive. Take for instance this Crazy horse engine from John White’s factory in Kent, Washington.
A longterm passionate Indian fan, John is also a highly successful heavy construction equipment business owner. His main business is American Piledriving Equipment, the worlds largest provider of foundation construction equipment.
American Piledriving Equipment (APE) is the number one provider in research and development, production and sales of foundation construction equipment. APE has branch offices in Asia, Europe and every corner of the United States. But a big part of this man’s heart has been devoted to keeping the Indian heritage alive. When the Gilroy Indian factory stumbled in 2005 he purchased the remaining bottle cap Indian engines from the defunct facility. He began to study and refine this sharp looking air-cooled 45-degree V-twin.
Crazy Horse Motorcycles LLC, based in Kent, Washington, is the manufacturer of the “V-Plus” V-Twin motorcycle engine. They are an OEM supplier of this engine to individuals and custom bike builders. Each engine is proudly made in America with American components. They are basically built around the Evo platform and will fit any Evo model. The only quirky aspect is the carburetor facing out the left side of the engine, which I like, and it creates no obstruction for the rider of any bike with fatbob tanks; otherwise it is a minor consideration. Any Evo exhaust system will fit the Crazy Horse format.
“Our goal is to provide a distinctive, powerful, and reliable V-Twin American made engine. By using superior grade components and craftsmanship, along with a generous warranty, we intend to be considered among the best engine manufacturers in the industry,” said John White, the boss.
For the last several seasons the Crazy Horse team has been supplying engines to Paul Jr. on the Discovery Channel’s American Choppers.
Paul Jr. Designs has recently teamed up with Microsoft to produce a unique configuration for Paul, a Trike! It is a very exciting design inspired by the new game, Gears of War. The bike features a Crazy Horse Motorcycle Bottlecap V-Plus engine, which Paul has been using for many of his more recent projects.
John secured the rights to build these unique engines, enhanced the oiling system, the cylinder cooling capabilities, and they even purchased Ramsden foundry castings, which are semi-permanent steel tooling, so even the cases are no-longer sand-casted. In fact, this 100-inch V-Plus addresses some of the problems when pushing the size of standard Evo engines, with heavier cases and barrel material for stronger head bolt connections, so this 100-inch configuration based around 3 5/8-inch bore and 4 ¼ stroke is built to last with 9.5:1 compression from Keith Black hypereutectic pistons.
The original Gilroy oil pump was an external bypass pump, which had a problem feeding excessive oil. Then they shifted to an internal bypass oiling system, which also failed. Crazy Horse ditched the old bypass pump and replaced it with a True Internal Bypass (TIB) oil pump. It reduced internal engine oil foaming and did away with all the old oiling issues.
This engine affords builders the use of any conventional Evo ignition system, including Compu-Fire, Crane Hi-4, or Daytona Twin-tec systems, you name it. The need to correct the carb mounting came up in a discussion in a dark alley behind Bandit’s Cantina. There was a drunken vote for moving it to the conventional right-hand position, but I disagreed and have a lump over my left eye to prove it. I like the unique aspects of the left-hand carb, and the fact that it doesn’t leave the left side bare. Plus, it’s classic, goddammit. I’ll fight for it again.
This is now a complete world-class unique 100-inch engine platform used by Paul Jr. on many of his projects, on Brass Balls Bobbers, and by custom builders over the globe. The components are all the finest available including JIMS sprocket shafts, and all the engines are assembled with JIMS special tools, as the lower end run-out is trued to .0001 tolerance. Can’t get much better.
Crazy Horse Motorcycles “V-Plus 100” engine
All brand new components,
NOT A REBUILD
Durable and reliable
Hand assembled
True Internal Bypass oil pump (T.I.B.) superior to other “improved” pumps
Viewable timing marks
Premium aerospace quality gaskets and fasteners
Standard Big Twin mounting points, fits most frames with minimal fuss
Available either carbureted or fuel injected
Several styles of ignition triggers available including conventional cone-type
Optional Retro-Gray color scheme
Left side intake
In addition, the charging system is Evo-type alternator and single-phase or three-phase systems may be used.
Either a Mikuni 42mm or an S&S Super E carburetor can be installed. The latter requires removal of the rubber flange adapter and enlarging the two bolt holes.
Every Crazy Horse engine is test-run on their engine stand through several heat cycles, and checked for potential leaking problems. Gary and Julie received the Crazy Horse engine in a proprietary molded heavy plastic, high-security engine shipping case, perhaps the most secure engine shipping device I’ve ever seen. No worries.
There is one more positive aspect to John’s devotion to the Indian legacy. He recently started a web site to support all Indian owners, called the Indian Legacy Riders.
The Indian Legacy Riders Group is made up of owners of all Indian motorcycles. Its primary goal is to support owners by providing an active and well-maintained online data base to locate parts, service, and to supply technical support for their motorcycles. Support is through this website and through the online forum, which is a free and open forum to all riders. In addition, Indian Legacy Riders organizes seminars and training through chapter branches strategically located through the United States. We also organize rides to support our favorite brand and the community.
Joining the Indian Legacy Riders is free. Once you register, you will receive a package that includes the official “Indian Legacy rider’s patches.” You will automatically become a member of the closest chapter to you. They encourage you to play an active role in your chapter. If you wish to be a member of a particular Indian Legacy Chapter then please free to do so.
This website constantly collects data on all Indian motorcycles. This data is then titled and posted in the appropriate section for the benefit of all riders. John welcomes any data you wish to contribute.
They welcome all riders of all brands of bikes. The online forum also serves as a way to provide help from one rider to another… When reading this John invites you to join him and request that should you have any information regarding parts, service, or technical support to please contribute for the betterment of all Indian motorcycle riders.
John strongly encourages all our members to report issues regarding safety. In addition, any advice or data that can help fellow riders will be titled and posted on this site so please feel free to email us with your thoughts and discoveries.
Any issues should be emailed to: IndianLegacyRiders@Gmail.com
If you would like to play a larger role on this website, such as monitoring or posting of new data please email to: IndianLegacyRiders@Gmail.com.
If you are in need of a manual for a Springfield, Gilroy, Kings Mountain or Polaris Indian Motorcycle, John may have it! Check out their partner website IndianLegacyRiders.com, under the manuals section and see if he has what you need.
Check the roller. In the next episode we will start the sheet metal fabrication process by cutting up a set of Biker’s Choice fat bob tanks. You’ll begin to see the true talents of the Kustoms Inc. fabricating and body work team. Hang on and don’t forget to enter to win this puppy. The odds are terrific. Hell, you only go around once.
–Bandit
BIKERNET/CYCLE SOURCE BUILD SOURCES
Xpress
http://mysmartcup.com/
Crazy Horse
http://www.crazyhorsemotorcycles.com/
Texas Bike Works
www.TexasBikeWorks.com
Kustoms Inc.
KustomsInc@hotmail.com
Chop Docs
www.Chopdocschoppers.com
3 Guyz
www.3Guyz.com
Accel
Accel-ignition.com
Fab Kevin
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Evil Engineering
D&D Exhaust
http://www.danddexhaust.com/
Wire Plus
Barnett
Barnettclutches.com
Rocking K Custom Leathers
howard.knight@montana.com
Rivera Primo
www.RiveraPrimoInc.com
Spectro Oils
www.Spectro-oils.com
Bell
www.moto@rcn.com
Metzeler Tires
www.metzelermoto.com
.jpg)
Hawg Halters
www.HawgHalters.com
Handy Industries
www.HandyIndustries.com
Grip Ace
www.gripace.com
Biker’s Choice
www.bikerschoice.com
Aeromach
www.aeromachmfg.com
Ride Wright Wheels
www.ridewrightwheels.com
Biker Pros
www.BikerPros.com
Bare Knuckle Choppers
www.bareknucklechoppers.com
K&N
Doug Coffey’s RetroMod Panhead Part 2
By Robin Technologies |
I’m using a Baker DD6 transmission and they mount on a 5 speed transmission plate as used in Evolution Softail frames. I don’t care for the flimsy stamped sheet metal trans mounting plates available commercially so I opted to make my own.
Back in the day we used to have V shaped rear foot peg mounting brackets I always thought looked pretty cool and they helped fill in an empty spot in the frame for a ‘tighter’ look I prefer.
Here you see me getting started.
Four holes later
With a little machining, we have a transmission mounting plate.
Here we see the old style foot peg bracket bolted on.
Now the transmission is in and will line up perfectly with the engine using a Baker billet motor plate that comes with their 3 inch outside belt drive.
Hold on for part 3, when Doug turns a couple chunks of aluminum into a one of a kind OilTank — Richard Kranzler
1964 Pan Head part 4 (frame)
By Robin Technologies |
Well, here we are, past the point of no return. In this chapter I cover the reassembly of the 1964FL restoration. I have been working on this classic for the past nine months. I know it says frame above, but the frame was bone stock, no dings, or mods. The customer requested paint over powder, so off it went. We sandblasted it clean, checked for cracks, magna-fluxed the frame for imperfections, and checked all dimensions for tweaks. This puppy was straight. With new neck bearings and cups from J&P the frame flew back together. We cleaned the paint off the engine and transmission mounts and went to work. Assembly was straight forward, almost the reverse of the disassembly. Engine goes in first, followed by the transmission.
Primary with belt drive is next. However before the inner primary goes on, make sure you hook up the shift linkage, otherwise there’s not enough room to install the pin and cotter pin. After the linkage and inner primary are on, you can install the main shaft pulley and belt drive clutch. Loosen the transmission and adjust it all the way forward to ease the belt installation. After the belt is on, adjust the transmission rearward to achieve the proper belt tension.
I figured this was a good time to install the rear wheel and chain, making sure the proper alignment and chain tension are acquired.
Oil tank and lines were next on my agenda. I opted for a more modern spin on oil filter adapter, it looks nice and makes oil changes a snap. I kept the original oil filter that was polished just in case the owner wants to go all original some day.
The front forks have been completely rebuilt with all new modern seals, I had them polished also, looks nice! My customer decided he wanted a old school look on the wheels like they did in the ’30s and ’40s, so we blacked out the spokes and hubs leaving the star bearing plates and lug bolts the original parkerized coating.
Just about everything that is aluminum was polished like chrome. We kept to the OEM look on the primary and oil tank, which was black with touches of chrome. 
The original bugle horn was restored and polished.
As for the clutch shift linkage (mouse trap), it also was completely gone through and restored, polished and looks like new. I did find out why they call it a mouse trap! Got my Fuckin’! finger snapped twice while trying to adjust it, IT HURT BAD!
The brakes have all new shoes, lines and fittings. Front brake is mechanical and rear is hydraulic, all juiced, adjusted and ready to go. Tires we picked are replicas of the day. They are Shinko reproduction white walls. Not the best, not the worst, but fit the budget just right. They have all new tubes, rim belts and have been balanced and trued by me.
The new exhaust went on comfortably with new head clamps. We kept the original muffler. It was salvageable. All the footboards have been rebuilt with new rubber and rivets and foot controls were installed. 
The original generator in chapter 3, was a no go, it had a bad armature and wasn’t cost effective for a rewind. So I ordered (cust. request) a new 6v generator with built in voltage regulator, it too looks very nice. Just a quick rundown, the electric system although all 6v, has all new solid state components i.e. electronic dual breaker distributor with a solid state voltage regulator, no mechanical parts. 
The electrical has all been installed and wiring is complete less the head light and tail light. Both electrical junction boxes have been rebuilt with new insulators and wiring harness.
There’s a lot of little things like the $5 chrome chain guard I found at the swap meet and some odds and ends I also found in good condition cheap, at the swap meet. You can see them in the photo’s if you look hard. The steering head lock was a nightmare. It took me months to track one down on eBay. Shortly after I purchased the one on eBay, JP Cycles informed me that they finally had one in stock, go figure!
So here she is, just waiting for the tanks to come back from the painter.
ETA on the tins is end of June, then on they go. Hooking up the fuel system and tins installation will be the next chapter, followed by all systems start and run. I plan on giving the bike to Timbo at his semiannual “Ranch Party.”
He goes all out with a dozen live bands, free food and drink to all his friends, which is about a thousand or so. People show up weeks ahead to help construct stages, dance floors and the Bar-B-Q area. It is truly a sight to behold, covering five+ acres, your never board, everything from darts to wild monkey sex is going on! But this year is special.
Timbo is retiring with 30+ years of service to the Boeing air craft company at Edwards AFB. The bike is his gift to him, so it all has to come together. No pressure for me, HA! If you guys have any questions, feel free to write, or if I left out anything you deem important, ask!
–Tail Gunner out! Checking back with you in July.
Sources:
Note: Some 90% of the parts I used were from J&P Cycles with the exception of a few swap meet finds and the dual electronic ignition from a previous chapter. We found the seat on Ebay. It’s a replica ’48 tractor on pogo. Pipes are classic Paughco replacement units. It looks like a Primo belt drive. The only clue I had was a clutch spacer that was left out for some reason. I contacted Primo, and they said it was an early system and I needed to install the spacer. — Gunner
J&P Cycles
Rivera-Primo
Paughco
Doug Coffey’s RetroMod Panhead Part 1
By Robin Technologies |
Having been in the aftermarket Harley business since 1969, I have pretty much done everything from lacing wheels and custom painting to establishing a performance specialty manufacturing company known as Head Quarters.
Over the years everything in Harley-Davidson aftermarket world has evolved. Today finds old timers like myself better skilled with better tools and far better parts to work with than we had back in the day.
I have built probably thirty motorcycles from the frame up and they have all been builds that kept pace with what the current factory offerings were and the style of the day. The latter builds being Evos and Twin Cams in rubber mount swingarm frames.
That being said, I didn’t find I got the same buzz I used to get when I first started out building those rigid framed choppers back in the early 1970’s.
Some people count sheep to go to sleep. I found myself planning a new rigid frame chopper to send me off to La La Land for a good night’s sleep.
This went on for two or three years before I decided the time had come to act upon my dreams.
After twenty five years of manufacturing performance parts for my company Head Quarters, I realized most of the people I had met over that period had no idea I could actually build a custom bike completely by myself so I decided I would do everything possible in my own shop.
As I preferred the look of the choppers built in the 1960’s and early 70’s but preferred the technology of the parts offered today, I refer to my build as a Retro Mod Chopper combining both old style and new improved parts.
Allow me to show you how this new bike evolved.
The first thing I needed was a frame and I acquired this mid-70’s Shovelhead frame with a Fabricator Kevin hardtail welded on.
Other than the missing sidecar sidecar loops, it has a strong resemblance to a 1957 straight leg rigid frame. Exactly what I wanted.
Other than the missing sidecar sidecar loops, it has a strong resemblance to a 1957 straight leg rigid frame. Exactly what I wanted.
Now it was time to get busy and clean up the frame by cutting, grinding and yes, milling unsightly castings off the frame.
I needed to replace the cross bar for one that would enable me to slide the battery in and out of the oil tank. here you can see it in place ready to be welded. Once I had it tacked in place I was able to remove the original cross bar.
The right side axle plates on the old rigid frames have an elongated slot for the purpose of easier wheel removal. The old bike used drum brakes and the extra length in the slot enabled a long Allen wrench to slide in and remove the five bolts that held the wheel to the drum.
Since I would be using a more modern disc brake wheel I wouldn’t need the long slot so I close it up to match the left side.
Finally a frame back from the sand blaster. If you compare with the original frame you will see I have done more modification work than covered here in these images, I will be explaining some of those modifications over the next few articles
Bikernet/Cycle Source Sweeps Build Part 7 Sponsored by Xpress
By Robin Technologies |
Don’t miss the last episode:
http://www.bikernet.com/pages/BikernetCycle_Source_Sweeps_Build_Part_6_Sponsored_by_Xpress.aspx
Hang on. We are two weeks away from running out to Vegas for Bikefest and pulling the winner of this most magnificent custom motorcycle, specifically built for Bikernet and Cycle Source fans, readers, and subscribers. You need to sign up, if you haven’t, or come to the Cashman Center in Vegas to grab a card and sign up for the drawing. You don’t need to be on site to win. After Bikefest, the scooter will return to Kustoms Inc. near Detroit, for final tuning and break-in before being shipped to the winner.
So here’s the update in a flash, after Bonneville, and heading smack dab against a Cycle Source Deadline. “I’m way behind,” said Chris Callen, the esteemed Editor da Emperor, in Chief, in Charge, in Trouble. This year has turned into the scrambling year. We are scrambling to finish projects; builders are scrambling to finish bikes. Chris scrambles every month to finish a magazine. It’s bananas.
The bike was displayed in Sturgis at the Broken Spoke. Then it returned to Grand Ledge, Michigan, down the street from Ron Finch, for final manufacturing and paint by the master of Chop Docs, Ron Harris, but let’s finish the pieces first.
“I kill batteries no matter what I do,” Gary Maurer said as we started to discuss the battery box. “When I carefully rubber-mount the bastards, they vibrated enough to rip the battery cables to shreds.” So now he puts a small rubber lining under the battery and bolts the unit down hard with Jules-made steel battery straps. He is now using Brail and Ballistic batteries with some luck. This is where I started to learn more manufacturing processes from Gary and Jules, again.
It’s interesting. I don’t consider myself a builder, and when I work with someone with the manufacturing knowledge of the Kustoms Inc. team, I know I’m just an enthusiast, not anywhere near a pro builder. This story contains a couple of fine examples of their expertise. The battery straps are easily bent after marking the position for the bend on the top corner edge of the battery. Jules made the hand bend with a solid bar of steel, and then noted the amount of metal used in the radius and worked it into the formula for the next bend so the strap fit the battery perfectly.
“There is a mathematical formula for this process,” Gary said. “You need to add or subtract material from the next bend, but we bend one side and then adjust the other.”
I also noted how perfectly the fender edge fit the line of the tire, since most fenders do not align with the tire radius. “We often scribe the radius of the tire on the fender and cut it to match perfectly,” Gary said.
He uses thick welder ground cable stock taped to the fender to give him the proper fender clearance. “Sometimes we use chunks of busted rear drive belts,” Gary said. “Sometimes, if need be, we can double the belt, or mesh the teeth for a slightly larger space.”
They break the chain to be as close to the center of the adjustment path as possible, with the engine, primary and transmission in place. Then they adjust the chain to be bowstring tight, and then they tape the spacing material to the tire and start mounting the fender.
This Bare Knuckles fender was bobbed and channeled on both sides by Jules. She often cuts with a plasma cutter, and then works the edge with Matabo grinder with flap wheels. Bare Knuckle fenders are made with solid, thick spun steel. They are as strong as a battleship hull and easy to work with. “Our plasma was toast,” Gary said, “so she used a high-speed cut-off wheel, then the Matabo and flap wheels.
I like the exhaust system he built with D&D components and a carbon fiber muffler. I asked how he held the components accurately together for tacking. “I start generally, but not always, with the muffler in place and move forward,” Gary said. “I hold the chunks in place with three fingers and tack them.” If his weld pulls away from the joint, he adds a small ball of rod to one piece, then holds them together, and heats the ball until it flows to the other tubing piece.
Note how Jules fashioned the lower fender mount to the frame so it acted as a battery strap mount and fender mount.
Then Gary built the sissy bar by hand-bending the steel rod. He machined each chunk of bar stock for the frame rails, and drilled them ½-inch so the rail would simply insert into the welded boss. Then he drilled and tapped them for setscrews. On the top, he welded a machined bung to the bar, and a drilled and tapped the bung to the fender, so the fastener simply slips through the sissy bar tab and screws into the solid bung on the fender.
With all the components tested and brushed with flapper wheels, Ron Finch stopped by and picked up the components for the trip to Ron Harris, a third generation paint and body shop guy. “I couldn’t touch a paint gun until I could bump a fender,” Ron said of his granddad. Back in the day, bodywork was hammered and filled with brazing and lead.
“My dad called Bondo Chinese lead,” Ron said. Then he ran down the Chop Docs custom paint process. From the photos, paintwork slides along like ironing an old pair of Levis (who the hell does that anymore?), but any top-notch painter has the talents of a concert violinist. It may look easy, but there’s a refined eye and level of perfection that turns any steel surface into a perfectly smooth piece of art.
As soon as Ron Finch dropped off the components and peeled out, Ron Harris cleaned the welds with a cookie wheel, and then scuffed all the surfaces with 80-grit for a world-class bonded protective coating. Initially, paint was used solely to protect a surface. Now it protects and adds the final illustrious finish.
Then he coated all the sheet metal surfaces with a filler Bondo skin coat and block-sanded the surfaces. This is where perfection and talent come into play. I’ve been there. I couldn’t Bondo a baby moon hubcap and make it look like new. There’s an eye for sanding just the right level of Bondo to capture the perfect slick surface.
He followed the Bondo coating with a skim coat of putty to capture imperfections, and then tested his eyes with various levels of Emory paper from 80-grit, to 150, to 320, so he can minimize his primer usage.
“I’ve been working with Stage 5 Coatings for two years,” Ron said.
SIDEBAR:
Stage 5 Coatings was established in 2008 and is the newest and one of the fastest growing coatings suppliers in the United States. We are committed to selling jobber direct and establishing an exclusive territory for anyone that carries our lines. We strive to offer the best values available in the market. We are a small company that is personal and ethical. We build a personal working relationship with every customer, whether they are our largest or smallest. We believe when a customer buys from us, a partnership is formed, and is not just another customer. We have the industry experience to put ourselves in your shoes and understand the everyday struggles in the body shop business. From us to the jobber to manufacturing, we have the personal hands-on experience in all areas of the aftermarket coatings industry.
States with Stage 5 or Technico:
Michigan New York
Illinois Missouri
Texas Oklahoma
Wisconsin Oregon
California Arizona
Washington Georgia
Maryland Caribbean
Virginia 
Ron is working with Ken Dudley on a line of Chop Docs candies. After he primed all the surfaces, he used a black spray bomb dusting to cause imperfections to surface. After any pits or surface maladies were dealt with, he water-sanded everything with 400 grit wet and dry, and then hand-sanded with 600 grit and finished off with Scotchbrite.
With the components hung in a booth, he primed them with two coats of sealer, and then hit them with the silver base coat and inner clear before taping off for the black pearl inlay. Then everything was cleared again and sanded with 600-grit.
This was Ron’s first attempt with green variegated leaf* using Mona Lisa glue to attach it to the paint surface. “It’s like a very thin, watered-down Elmer’s glue,” Ron said. “The leaf is so thin, it’s like dust in your hands.”
Once the leaf was glued into place and the area cleaned with a cotton ball or a brush, Ron hit it with another coat of inner clear, which locks the base down and leaves sort of a satin surface to adhere any art to, such as pin striping by John Harrow, who used a one-shot enamel sign paint called Kansas City Teal.
Now for the final six layers of gloss clear coats and 1500 grit wet sanding, followed by 3000 grit with water, and then buffing with polishing compound, finishing glaze, and spit shine. It’s Saturday, and by Monday, all the elements will be returned to Gary and Jules and Kustoms Inc. for final assembly. Ron volunteered to help. Unfortunately, he’s 140 miles away, but he drove out and spent all day, Sunday, helping with assembly. “It’s 80 percent there,” Ron said on his way home.
Speaking of volunteer efforts, this has been an amazing build with efforts from a variety of sources, all to create a bike we are giving away. No one made a dime off this puppy. It’s all American-made, and the whole gang pulled together to offer Bikernet and Cycle Source readers a shot at a world-class custom motorcycle—thanks. Chance of a lifetime, goddammit.
Variegated Leaf
Variegated leaf is a metal leaf composed of a metal base, such as pure copper leaf or imitation gold leaf that has been treated chemically to create color patterns. These leaves have been heat treated to create metamorphic random patterns of intense color.
Dimensions: 5½” x 5½”
BIKERNET/CYCLE SOURCE BUILD SOURCES
Xpress
http://mysmartcup.com/
Crazy Horse
http://www.crazyhorsemotorcycles.com/
Texas Bike Works
www.TexasBikeWorks.com
Kustoms Inc.
KustomsInc@hotmail.com
Chop Docs
www.Chopdocschoppers.com
3 Guyz
www.3Guyz.com
Accel
Accel-ignition.com
Fab Kevin
http://www.fabkevin.com/home.htm
Evil Engineering
www.evil-engineering.com
D&D Exhaust
http://www.danddexhaust.com/
Wire Plus
http://www.wire-plus.com/
Barnett
Barnettclutches.com
Rocking K Custom Leathers
howard.knight@montana.com
Rivera Primo
www.RiveraPrimoInc.com
Spectro Oils
www.Spectro-oils.com
Bell
www.moto@rcn.com
Metzeler Tires
www.metzelermoto.com
Hawg Halters
Handy Industries
www.HandyIndustries.com
Grip Ace
www.gripace.com
Biker’s Choice
www.bikerschoice.com
Aeromach
www.aeromachmfg.com
Ride Wright Wheels
www.ridewrightwheels.com
Biker Pros
www.BikerPros.com
Bare Knuckle Choppers
www.bareknucklechoppers.com
Bikernet/Cycle Source Sweeps Build Part 6 Sponsored by Xpress
By Robin Technologies |
Check the last episode: http://www.bikernet.com/pages/BikernetCycle_Source_Sweeps_Build_Part_5_Sponsored_by_Xpress.aspx
This process is amazing. Not only are Gary Maurer, Kustoms Inc., and Julie, the lead builders, but they dragged this roller in various stages to over eight shows and events. It’s actually set up at the Broken Spoke in Sturgis right this fuckin’ minute. When I interviewed Gary, while Jules whispered in his ear, they were just 100 miles outside of Sturgis and rolling in.
“It’s 1250 miles from Grand Ledge, Minnesota, to the Badlands,” Gary said. “Des Moines is the toughest, most congested area to scramble through.”
The Sweeps bike, nearing completion, will be displayed at the Broken Spoke, the home port of Cycle Source, while Gary and his crew nail down tent stakes at the big rig RV park near the circle track. “We can look down over Main Street,” Gary said, “and we’re walking distance from anything happening in town.”
The Bikernet/Cycle Source Sweeps build is flying along, and will be completed and offered up to a Bikernet, or Cycle Source reader at Las Vegas Bikefest, September 27-30. Hang on, join in, pitch in, sign up, do something even if it’s wrong. We’re burnin’ daylight.
The most amazing product featured this month during the build process at Kustoms Inc. was this Fab Kevin, axle-mounted, side-mounted vertical or horizontal license plate mount. With a couple of quick screws it can switch from vert to sideways. It’s an amazing product notion from the master at Fab Kevin’s, in Clinton Township, Michigan. The taillight is also Fab Kevin’s.
This product is so well thought out. It’s perfect for loading bikes and making additional clearance, for style, or to contend with legal restrictions. It’s amazing, and simply bolts to any axle for quick angular adjustments and strength. Okay, so much for product hype. If you want one of these puppies, click here quickly: http://www.fabkevin.com/
With that out of the way, you might notice slight frame modifications. Gary needed additional space above the Rivera Transmission for Jule’s hand made oil tank, so he removed the drop seat rails. He did a helluva job of adding beautiful flowing lines to his arched backbone, and then Julie added shapely gussets cut from a band saw. “That line of the frame should be shaped like a woman’s body,” Gary said, winking at Julie. He’s always nervous about her growing metal fabrication prowess. “If she ever learns how to weld, I’m out of a job.”
Gary used Fab Kevin forward control mounting kits, and demonstrated how he includes a thick washer, .090-inch, on the inside to form a spacer to allow him room to run a bead on the inside of the flame-cut Fab Kevin brackets.
“They didn’t install control mounts at Texas Frame Works, because we didn’t know our direction at that time,” Gary said, and dodged an accident on the freeway as he rolled into the outskirts of Rapid City.
Gary cut the tubing to position the controls with the proper clearance. “I’m not so concerned about exact measurements from the center of the frame,” Gary told me. “But I make sure the peg position is identical front to back and height.”
This feature includes a shot of Julie grinding tank welds, which was a Ron Harris, Chop Docs assignment. In this case, she’s acting as his stunt double. Chop Docs also volunteered to mold and paint this project, but Julie cut him some slack, since she would burn through half a day delivering parts to Ron, and wouldn’t have them handy to perform more mock-up and tab manufacturing. Gary calls over to Ron’s shack a couple of times a day, just to make sure he’s working and not at the bar.
After Sturgis Gary will pressure-test the tanks for leaks; then seal them inside with Northern or 415 sealer.
We also discussed coping the end of the forward control tubing chunks so they mated to the frame for the perfect weld fit. “I use a bench grinder generally for notching tubing,” Gary said. “I modified a grinding wheel, and can usually knock it out a joint faster on the grinder than with a $100 jig a joint.”
He also suggested welding-store magnetic drill cutters, carbide cone-shaped tools, but they cost $170 for a bit, and can snap in a hot flash. Suddenly he was forced to maneuver around a downed deer in the number-two-lane on Interstate 90 about 40 miles east of Sturgis. More and more bikes flew around his rig as he rumbled through the pristine roaming South Dakota hillsides.
The left side of the frame required an extra bung for the kickstand, which beefed up the forward control mounting. Gary planned a gusset on the right side supporting the tubing.
Julie set up the Chop Docs seat pan with a Fab Kevin hinge. Ultimately, Gary flipped the hinge and notched the frame to lower and reposition the seat. Then I learned something mighty important from the master. I noticed the shot of him drilling a hole in one of the frame rails. “The frame needs welding vent holes,” Gary said. “From time to time, if there is any oil inside a frame tube, pressure builds up, and can blow a hole in the tubing or in a weld.”
I was aware of the venting concern, but never experienced it. Next, Julie piled old towels.
“It’s our secret oil tank mounting system,” Jules said yanking the phone away from the driver. “Don’t you know you’re not supposed to drive and talk on cell phones?”
Thank god she took over the phone interview, as swerving, party-going bikers surrounded their rig as they neared town. Good news, Gardner-Westcott stepped up to supply stainless fasteners for the final assembly. “We used our oil tank mounting system to mount the oil bag,” Jules said.
Their mounting brackets are massive ¼-inch triangular plates. She positioned two together in the front, and Gary tacked them into place. The Fab Kevin seat tabs come 3 inches in length, so they can be cut to fit any application.
As it turned out, Julie mounted two more of her tank tabs over the top of her hand-formed oil bag, forming a perfect base to weld the seat brackets for the seat shocks.
With all the elements in place, Gary kicked off a batch of TIG welding work, welding tabs in place and the oil tank.
Jules and Gary worked out just the perfect position for the Wire Plus ignition housing. “It must be positioned to clear the oil tank, the engine, and the shift linkage, but easy to reach for the rider. These all-in-one Wire Plus ignition switch systems give any builder a complete wiring system, including ignition switch, circuit breaker, starter relay, you name it, all in one compact, billet aluminum box.
“Watch out,” Julie shouted and dropped the cell phone, while trying to warn Gary of an impending accident, or a topless party-broad running from the cops as they exited the freeway. They had reached motorcycle nirvana in the Badlands. I wasn’t there, bummer.
Just make sure to sign up for this contest by subscribing to Cycle Source or Bandit’s Cantina on Bikernet, or just fill out the form and duct any payment. We don’t care. We just want someone cool to win this bike. It’s going to be a masterpiece, any two-wheeled enthusiast will be proud of for decades to come.
–Bandit
Here’s a link to the next episode: http://www.bikernet.com/pages/BikernetCycle_Source_Sweeps_Build_Part_7_Sponsored_by_Xpress.aspx
BIKERNET/CYCLE SOURCE BUILD SOURCES
Xpress
http://mysmartcup.com/
Crazy Horse
http://www.crazyhorsemotorcycles.com/
Texas Bike Works
www.TexasBikeWorks.com
Kustoms Inc.
KustomsInc@hotmail.com
Chop Docs
www.Chopdocschoppers.com
3 Guyz
www.3Guyz.com
Accel
Accel-ignition.com
Fab Kevin
http://www.fabkevin.com/home.htm
Evil Engineering
www.evil-engineering.com
D&D Exhaust
http://www.danddexhaust.com/
Wire Plus
http://www.wire-plus.com/
Barnett
Barnettclutches.com
Rocking K Custom Leathers
howard.knight@montana.com
Rivera Primo
www.RiveraPrimoInc.com
Spectro Oils
www.Spectro-oils.com
Bell
www.moto@rcn.com
Metzeler Tires
www.metzelermoto.com
Hawg Halters
www.HawgHalters.com
Handy Industries
www.HandyIndustries.com
Grip Ace
www.gripace.com
Biker’s Choice
www.bikerschoice.com
Aeromach
www.aeromachmfg.com
Ride Wright Wheels
www.ridewrightwheels.com
Biker Pros
www.BikerPros.com
Bare Knuckle Choppers
www.bareknucklechoppers.com