The Purloined Parking Space

 

Cottonwood, Arizona, once home to bad guys and bootleggers, is nestled in Arizona’s verdant Verde Valley, a serene setting belying its often-violent past. It recently hosted the 13th Annual Thunder Valley Rally, giving props to all the outlaws and free spirits who have returned to its rebel bosom. Decades after Al Capone personally bailed out a bootlegger buddy from the local jailhouse, the town once again welcomed questionable characters to Main Street.

 

In a rare move, the city has taken over the event, turning the entire town into a party. During Prohibition, this area was notoriously known as a hub for the production and risky distribution of illegal spirits. None other than the dastardly likes of Capone and his ilk were known to walk the same streets and back alleys as law abiding bikers travel today. At the end of the dusty day, though, we all wanted the same thing—an ice-cold frothy beer in sensible moderation. 

 

The event attracted a couple of thousand enthusiasts from across Arizona. Cottonwood’s Old Town turned into a biker walk flanked by restaurants, coffee shops, antique stores, trading posts, wine cellars and tasting rooms while vendors filled side streets. Headline music was added this year with Leon Russell leading the bill.

 

The area boasts a growing number of wine bars offering a taste of the booming vineyard industry, which is quickly turning the Verde Valley into the next Napa. Hard liquor distilled from questionable moonshine ingredients have been replaced with a grapey glass of sophistication and pure spirits. There is no truth to the legend that illegal whiskey making still exists here under darkness and desert cave. But most bikers agree, it would be great if it did.

Local officials of Cottonwood Parks & Recreation deemed the economic boost was worth the risk of a horde of hooligans invading their tranquil community. Braced by an open-minded local government, reasonably priced accommodations, unobtrusive if omnipresent law enforcement officers who don’t treat visitors as revenue but have no tolerance for louts, almost ideal weather and countless miles of spectacular scenery in every direction, the Thunder Valley Rally may become a civic model for events to come.

 

The rally almost fell into history two years ago. The event was organized by a nearby casino for the event’s first 11 years, but has since reduced its role to sponsorship due to the economic turndown. In an act of unprecedented bureaucratic sense, the city of Cottonwood rolled the dice. It rescued the event and plunked it down in the middle of Main. Like a little Sturgis, Old Town was turned into a block party complete with multi-class, cash prize bike show, free concerts, after-parties by local clubs and saloons, a growing number of vendors, and the rarity of free giant Trike “romance rides” given by local character, Big Tim of Spirit Trykes.  

 

 

Said Big Tim, “This is a great place to hold a rally and it’s good the town kept it going. There are more people here than ever before, and I like to show them around. My [Buick based] Trike seats three, so it’s fun to give people rides around. There’s a lot to see.” Tim said the rides are free but tips are accepted. For a longer night out, he offers “Romance Rides” to destinations unknown.

 

Some people, however, were not so thrilled the bikers were in town. A shop owner who insisted on anonymity had a mighty grievance for bikers parking in front of her store. “They come into town, think they can just take over. They park in front of my store and then don’t come in to buy nothing. You know, all these people here on Main Street depend mostly on the weekend to make their money, but do these biker’s care? They push the tourists out.”

 

I pointed out bikers are also tourists, do spend a lot of money on food, beverages and souvenirs, and if shops made an even temporary market adjustment and offered more goods and services geared to rally goers, then everyone would happy, or maybe at least a little less grumpy. “Yeah, yeah,” she said with mounting agitation, “do the bikers buy furniture? Do they? No! They just take our parking spaces, party and leave. Makes me sick.” 

 

Up the block is a closed antique store with “No Parking” signs taped to every pole and panel. Provincial towns like this will always have grouchy holdouts who refuse to set up sidewalk displays, add temporary signs or staff, extend hours or even open up at all. It’s always astonished me how many business owners would rather complain and curse potential customers than make money. Adding some vibe to the community doesn’t even enter the equation. 

Others just enjoyed the fun. “I rode about two hours up from Phoenix for this, will probably just stay the day and ride back,” said Larry. “It’s a really nice day ride. You have the vineyards, the red rocks of Sedona, the Indian ruins if you haven’t seen them, and of course the rally and all that brings, not to mention it’s a lot cooler up here than down in Phoenix.”

 

Nate, a local who was perusing TVR with his young son, “There are things they could do better, it’s hard to know what’s happening where, the website was confusing and needs work, but for a small town rally, it’s fine.”

Cottonwood is set near the Jurassic wonderlands of Sedona; the old, haunted mining town Jerome; the prehistoric native ruins at Tuzigoot and Montezuma Castle; and other natural and historic attractions that bewilder the eye and heighten the senses. The Verde River runs through neighboring Page Springs, which has become home to a new wine industry.

 

 

The town was founded in 1879 by ranchers and farmers, but within a couple of decades developed a reputation for welcoming ne’er-do-wells, outlaws, bikers, and the usual undesirables. Moonshining later became a cash crop, and reportedly, Capone stayed to inspect the area’s corn squeezing operations after settling accounts with a local judge on behalf of the aforementioned colleague. It is not known if the Prohibition gangster opened up a speakeasy or refreshment shop, but he would have found a welcome home amid the desert hills, unlikely rivers and Indian ruins surrounding the area.

 

For more information:

Contact the Cottonwood Parks and Recreation Department at 928-639-3200; http://cottonwoodaz.gov/parksrec/thunder-valley-rally/