We recently rebuilt a S&S Super E carb, which is documented in our tech department. There are several S&S carb techs on Bikernet:
http://www.bikernet.com/SandS/PageViewer.asp?PageID=1198
http://www.bikernet.com/SandS/PageViewer.asp?PageID=1917
http://www.bikernet.com/SandS/PageViewer.asp?PageID=2121
Unfortunately we ran into a carb that didn't return to commendable running life after a rebuild. Just for a test we installed it on another bike and we still encountered erratic running problems, so I reached out to the factory and discovered S&S has a remanufacturing service for many of their products. Check it out:

S&S Cycle professional remanufacturing services are available through all authorized S&S dealers. Your authorized S&S dealer can send S&S and some stock components to S&S to have them remanufactured to factory fitment specifications. From a carburetor to a complete engine, pretty much any S&S and certain stock components can be remanufactured.

In the big picture, this means that rather than replace an engine when it has run its course, for about half the cost of a new engine, the S&S remanufacturing technicians can return your engine to factory specs. The remanufactured engine will have new bearings and bushings as required, new pistons, oil pump components, camshaft(s), tappets, gaskets, seals and replacement hardware.

A remanufactured S&S engine carries a full one-year parts and labor warranty.

What’s Included?

Typical S&S Remanufacturing procedures are available for S&S and Flathead Power KN-Series, P-Series, SH-Series, V-Series, and T-Series engines.

Each S&S Remanufactured engine process includes the following:

Crankcases: replace bearings and refit pinion race.
Gear Cover: replace camshaft and pinion bushings.
Flywheel Assembly: repair flywheels, rebuild connecting rods and replace pinion shaft and crankpin, balance and true assembly.
Cylinder Heads: remanufacture with new oversize stem valves and new valve springs. Gasket surfaces are resurfaced as needed.
Cylinders and Pistons: bore and hone cylinders to accommodate new pistons and rings.
Oil Pump: remanufacture with new gears, seals and gaskets.

Carburetor: remanufacture to factory new specifications.
Reassemble: complete assembly with new camshaft(s), tappets, gaskets and seals.

S&S Cycle offers complete factory machine shop services through Authorized S&S Dealers. From installing a complete Hot Set Up Kit to installing thrust washers in a flywheel, our factory certified technicians have the tools, the know-how and just as importantly the genuine S&S parts to handle just about any job. Instead of sending your machine work out to an automotive shop, send it to the people that know your American v-twin engine best.

If you want a big bore S&S Hot Set Up Kit installed in their Harley-Davidson Evolution, Twin Cam 88 or Twin Cam 96 engine, our technicians will do it all for you. Machine the cases, install a Timken sprocket shaft bearing conversion in 2003 and later crankcases, and assemble the entire engine

– all you do is remove the engine from your frame and have your local Authorized S&S Dealer ship it to us! We will even send your dealer an engine shipping carton to ensure that your engine gets here safely.

S&S Machine Shop Services Available:

Machine S&S heads to raise compression ratios.
• Dual-plug S&S heads for shovels and P-Series engines.
• Fit pistons to S&S or stock cylinders.
• Install thrust washers in flywheels.
• Bore and fit 88” cylinders for 95” conversion.
• Machine crankcase breather bore for oversize breather gear.
• Machine crankcase spigot bores for big bore kits.
• Timken sprocket shaft conversion – 2003-and later big twins.
• Machine gasket surfaces – cylinder heads, cylinders, and cases.
• Multi-angle valve job on Serdi equipment.

NOTE: Blown engines or engines with obvious failed components will not qualify for standard remanufacturing pricing. Additional part prices will be provided for customer approval prior to any work taking place. Non-S&S parts will not be reinstalled.

So, we sent our Super E carb to the factory and they rebuilt and tested it for $170 which is less than half of the retail price of buying a new carb. So, if you're not the kinda guy who tears into every component on your motorcycle, this might be the way to rebuild your engine or carb.

–Wrench

Please follow and like us:

Editor's Note:Following is a hot-shot memorandum containing break-in recommendations by the crew of Crazy Horse Engines, the builders of a truly unique V-Twin engine. The Bikernet staff is building a 5-Ball Factory Racer, using a 100-inch Crazy Horse Engine. Some aspects in the following tech might not match your engine configuration, but they remain solid break-in notions for any new V-Twin engine.

Many of these shots came from Brass Balls Bobbers since they use Crazy Horse Engines in many of their bobber models.

Before starting the engine for the first time make sure that there's a solid column of oil in the feed (suction) line to the bottom of the oil pump, NO AIR POCKETS, otherwise it will be very difficult to achieve oil prime.

* DO NOT PRESSURIZE OIL TANK WHILE THE HOSE IS CONNECTED TO THE PUMP *

You may wish to temporarily loosen the tappet screen plug in order to “burp” any air.

NOTE – Crazy Horse Engines require premium gasoline (octane 91 or higher) for best performance.

CAUTION – Low octane gasoline and hot weather can cause detonation and extensive engine damage. Never try to power through ignition knock (“ping” “rattle” etc.) by opening throttle.

CAUTION – If engine is run with foreign material in the oil tank, engine damage will occur. Engine damage caused by foreign material in the oil tank is not covered under the Crazy Horse warranty. Clean oil tank and oil cooler and flush or replace oil lines before installing engine in frame.

Engine Break-In Procedure

Note: Correct break-in will assure longer engine life and will prevent unnecessary engine damage. Engine damage caused by improper break-in or installation is not covered under the Crazy Horse warranty.

A. Initial start up: Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.

B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch.

C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.

D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don’t be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.

E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.

CAUTION – Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. Crazy Horse voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.

G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.

H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.

I. Go out and ride and enjoy all the attention!

Please follow and like us: