This chapter covers the final elements of installing the cam case gears, the top end, the pushrods, rocker boxes then hot testing the engine and packaging it for shipment back to your dealer. Let's get rolling.
Here's a Link to Part I, for reference: Part I, H-D Reman Process
Here's a Link to Part II, for reference: Part II, H-D Reman Process
Assembling the cylinder studs was handled by Mark. He used brand new studs. Then each one was torqued into place with red Loctite.
Next Mark dropped in the Tephlon breather gear that rides around scavenging oil out of the lower end, so as not to put drag on the engine. Often high performance engines contain modified breather gears.
As you can see Mark installed the worm gear first on the pinion shaft. It drive the oil pump. Then he installed a spacer and the Pinion drive gear that drives the cam. Ignore the yellow paint. The color indicates that these particular gears fit well. Each gear, the pinion, the breather and the cam gears contain notches. They must all be aligned with each other for proper cam, breather and ignition timing.
Mark applied a dab of red Loctite before torqueing the pinion nut (35-45 ft. pounds of torque).
I truly honor the simplicity of the Evo lower end. That’s it. What could go wrong? Mark oiled the gears in the cam case before he started to close it. Also he checked the cam end play. It needs to be within .050.
Mark began to install the factory bright plated allens. He torqued them to 90-120 inch pounds. I should have listed torque ratings throughout this piece. I apologize. Maybe I’ll add them later.
With a stash of re-conditioned lifters at hand, Mark installed them into the lifter guides with some lubricant.
Here’s assembling the lifter guides or blocks to the engine. These were torqued to 9-12 foot pounds.
Mark assembled the pistons on the rods.Pistons and cylinders can be 0.010 in., 0.020 in., or 0.030 in. oversize. Of course they have a cool special tool to install the wrist pin keepers.
Mark checked the overall wrist pin run-out between insert clips to insure both were in their proper location.
It looks like these pistons are coated for slip and durability, and mark brushes a lubricant on to give them a fresh start.
Mark installs the cylinders over the piston rings. Note the wheel on the sprocket shaft, so he can reposition the pistons at anytime. Also note the tephlon slab under the piston to allow it to set flat while the rings are pinched with the special tool and the cylinder is lowered. After all the rings are in the cylinder comfortably, the wheel can be turned so the piston is lifted enough to remove the ring pinching tool. Then the cylinder can be lowered to it’s final position.
We faced a station shift her and the delightful Etta took over to install the heads after she slipped on fresh gaskets. They don’t use any type of gasket glue.
I’m not sure how much she initially torques the heads. The book calls for a specific cylinder head sequence, but check this machine below.
This machine torques all the headbolts at once. “This follows the same 3-step sequence found in the service manual; however all 8 bolts go through the sequence all at once,” Scott, from the factory, added.
There’s our baby, ready for pushrods, rocker boxes and testing.
Here’s Etta assembling the test carburetor to our engine. We’re now entering the final stages of assembly, testing and shipment. “Fuckin’ Awesome, “ as my Australian brothers said.
She’s attaching the push rod covers, before the pushrods are slipped into place from above.
Ah, another handy special tool for installing the pushrod tool clip.
Etta installs the spark plugs after they’re gapped to .038 to .043.
Etta checks the case bolts one final time and re-torques them according to the sequence and ratings in the manual.
Now Etta drops the pushrods into place. There’s specific pushrods for each valve of differing lengths. No adjustments are necessary.
Next she slips on a fresh rocker box gasket and prepares to seal up the engine.
Ah, fresh chrome.
Fasteners with blue Loctite in place and the complete first level of rocker box already assembled with shafts and rockers is ready to be buttoned down.
Etta torques the rocker box and cover screws to 15-19 foot pounds of torque. The smaller Allens to 10-14 foot pounds and the top cover fasteners to 90-120 inch pounds.
Finally the last element, the rocker box covers.
Etta signs off on another remanufactured Evo engine, but that’s not all. She’s responsible for the engine testing to come.
We can’t see it, but Etta’s installs a sprocket to start the bike for testing then turns the engine around and sets the timing. I will endeavor to find out what all the gauges and meters monitor during this hot, or running test.
” We monitor oil pressure at different RPMs, and temperature,” Scott filled us in. ” We also check for leaks and weeps after the motor reaches temperature.  The exhaust system on the test booth muffles the exhaust to the point that it can hardly be heard at all. This allows the test mechanics to hear any unusual mechanical noises.”
She hits the starter button and grabs the throttle. Nothing to it. Where’s the gas tank?
There’s our baby strapped in for the ride. I believe I can see the fuel line running in from the back.
Etta records test data on engine assembly tracking record. It’s run tested for six minutes.
There she is tested, retested and ready for shipment back to your dealer, or mine.
Carolyn removes any test components.
Once more on a hoist the jewel is mounted to its packing crate base.
Carolyn smiled as she packaged the engine in the original crate from the dealership.
After inspection and packaging, worker goes on the CCX internet site and processes the shipping of the engine immediately. Ah but we ain’t done yet…
Here's a set of cases prepped for powder.
Here’s some powdercoated parts, the famous H-D black wrinkle.
We slipped into biker heaven once more. A crate fulla reassembled flywheels ready for assembly into fresh engines. Hope you enjoyed the show.