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Read More The Mudflap Girl FXR Saga
By Bandit |
It all started when a brother was desperate for cash and I bought a basket case Dyna, and with the help of JIMS machine turned it into an FXR. I started to build it for my son, Frank, the tattoo artist, around an old Kenny Boyce-styled pro street frame. Making progress on this build, with a massive upside down Custom Chrome front end, a brother stumbled into my shop and told me about Paul Cavallo and Spitfire Motorcycles.
Paul’s been around the industry for a couple of decades. When the economy tanked, he hung on with his dad and started Spitfire motorcycles. He was struggling and a brother thought I could help by using a couple of his Spitfire components on a Bikernet.com build. I went to visit Paul and was inspired by his non-stop drive to create new components daily, build world-class old school chops for customers, and kick ass at shows all over the country.
Then I was hit with the bike builder blues. My girlfriend left and I was forced to sell my 2003 Road King, leaving me with a ratty rigid Shovelhead and a Bonneville racer to ride. I needed a new girl and a long distance rider. Too often, around the campfire we debated twin cams versus Evos and most of the bros confirmed the solid stature of the FXR configuration. A plan formulated to build myself another FXR. I returned to Paul’s shop to cut a deal on a chassis for myself. Both were stretched, almost single-loop, long-distance riders with Spitfire Girder front ends.
Paul’s team built my chassis in pure traditional FXR style and Frank’s in the pro street configuration. We re-manned Frank’s FXR engine in black and chrome, and I ordered a bone-stock crate H-D 80-inch Evo. Both transmissions were rebuilt by the JIMS crew to be 6-speed overdrive units. I went with chain final drive and Frank used a stock belt.
The overwhelming concept revolved around building a bike that’s a chopper to the bone, but could be easily ridden across the country. My stretched gas tank holds well over three gallons, the oil tank contains nearly four quarts of oil, and I installed an oil cooler for heat waves. The Spitfire bars are held in place with Custom Cycle Engineering dog bone rubber-mounted classics.
I used Contrast Cut Performance Machine grips and pegs for style, yet road comfort. The bike is rubber-mounted for vibration-free riding. I worked closely with David Zemla of Progressive suspension until we configured a shock system capable of affording me some suspension with somewhat limited travel.
The girder is an uplifting quandary. With the Spitfire structure I could feasibly install almost any shock system, with whatever spring rate I decided on. I’m still messing with the gas-operated Rockshox.
I’m missing the best part, the Saddlemen seat. This seat was carefully configured at the Saddlemen manufacturing facility in Los Angeles, from the heavy-duty fiberglass seat pan to the spine-relieving slot, to the better than foam gel, and the ultimate breathing resilient fabric. That puppy is amazing.
The engine is virtually stock with the exception of a Bennett’s Performance-installed Andrews Cam, S&S oil breather gear, and Branch flowed heads, all their state-of-the-art valves and springs, and intake manifold. I ran an Andrews EV-27 cam and Andrews chrome-moly adjustable pushrods for less flex, a new cam bearing and the Branch flowed stock heads, for 8.9:1 compression, 78 cc Branch-flowed chambers, and 75-80 horses at 2,600 rpms.
The bike was built specifically for the road, but with chopper styling. I can’t leave anything alone, or ride a stock bike. It’s against my nature, but I can ride a scooter that will get me there comfortably in style.
For the first time in my bike-building life, I built this bike in bare form, wired it, and rode it for almost eight months. The benefits are immense, since I could make changes and adjustments throughout this road or rode research period. It gave me an extended period to investigate color schemes, build the front fender, break stuff, repair, and outright replace components, including my goofy chain guard.
It’s odd, but even with 2,000 miles under her belt, I still came up with last-minute changes during the paint and powder process. I added a keyless ignition system from Digital Dawg, which proved to be a safety and security feature. The drawback to riding a bare vehicle for an extended period included rust and oil management.
Still, when I assembled the bike for the final time, I ran into rear powder-coated fender expansion, and adjustments to the position of my one-off Spitfire oil bag to prevent chain damage. Maybe a rear belt would have been a wiser decision, maybe not.
Finally, the Mudflap Girl represents the open road. She represents the drawbacks of industry when it takes our girls away from us. And lastly she represents the desire to find our Mudflap Girl at home or down the road.
IRONWORKS EXTREME TECH CHART
Specifications
Owner: Lt. Ball
Builder: Ballintsky
GENERAL
Assembly/Builder: Ballorama
Timeline: 8 months
FORKS
Builder: Paul Cavallo, Spitfire Motorcycles
Type: Girder
Triple trees: Spitfire
Extension: 9 inches over stock
ENGINE
Rebuilder: New
Displacement: 80 cubic inches
Lower End: assembled by S&S
Balancing: S&S
Pistons: H-D
Cases: factory
Heads: Branch O’Keefe
Cams: Andrews
Lifters: S&S
EFI/ Carb: Trock modified CV
Air Cleaner: Roger Goldammer
Pipes: D&D
Ignition: Crane Hi-4
TRANSMISSION
Engine sprocket: BDL
Trans sprocket: JIMS 23-tooth
Wheel sprocket: 51-tooth
Secondary drive: Biker’s Choice chain
FRAME
Designer/Builder: Paul Cavallo/Spitfire Motorcycles
Rake/Stretch: 5 inches up, 2 out
ACCESSORIES
Risers: Custom Cycle Engineering dog bones
Fenders: Bar Knuckle/Toby/Bandit front, Biker’s Choice rear
Gas Tank: Biker’s Choice
Oil Tank: Spitfire
Headlight: Old spot
Taillight: Donkey from Biker’s Choice
Speedo: Wire Plus
Pegs: Performance Machine Contrast Cut
Electrics: Wire Plus, Digital Dawg (keyless), Biker’s Choice
Seat: Custom by Saddlemen
WHEELS/TIRES
Front Tire: Avon
Size: 19
Rear Wheel: Metalsport
Rear Tire: Avon
Size:
Hubs: Metalsport
Rotors: Metalsport
Brakes: GMA
PAINT
Bodywork/Molding: none
Painter: Chris Morrison and George the Wild Brush
Color: Super silver
Powdercoating: Worco silver and asphalt satin black
Sources:
BDL
Custom Cycle Engineering
D&D Exhaust
JIMS
MetalSport
S&S
Saddlemen
Spitfire
Wire Plus
Rebirth of an American Classic: Case Repairs
By Bandit |
Before the engine could be rebuilt, the cases needed some additional work to repair a damaged portion of the front baffle. It appears that an unknown piece of debris was wedged between the backside of the baffle and the flywheel which eventually knocked a hole right through the baffle.
Since HD engine cases are made from aluminum, the best method for repairing the hole was to use a TIG welder to fill in the missing material. The hole was located at the thinnest portion of the baffle, so a piece of copper plate was used to cover the hole and provide support for the weld.
The entire case half was then placed in a parts oven set to 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 45 minutes. This helped to bake out the old motor oil which had impregnated the case over the years and ensured that the entire case was at equal temperature for welding. The heating also revealed that there were a number of cracks radiating out from the hole which also needed to be fixed. By the time the hole, the cracks and the casting imperfections had been repaired, I was left with a good deal of weld to grind away.
The backside of the baffle was easy to reach and was ground back into shape with the help of a curved template and a flap wheel mounted to a hand drill. The top of the baffle was much harder to grind with standard tools, so it was necessary to make a custom router bit using an aluminum sleeve epoxied to a ½” four fluted end mill.
Working slowly, I removed about 1/32” of excess weld with each pass of the router. Liberal amounts of Teflon lubricant was used throughout the process. After every pass the chips were removed and new lubricant was added to make sure no damage was caused by the aluminum sleeve riding against the case.
After some final shaping, the repair was complete and I moved onto chasing the threads for all the tapped holes.
Next, both case halves received a thorough cleaning. All the holes were cleaned out with wire brushes attached to a hand drill to remove any aluminum chips and other debris. From there the cases were soaked in warm soapy water and scrubbed with bristle brushes. Then each case was carefully blown dry with compressed air, paying careful attention to blow out all holes and orifices.
Once the cases were clean and dry, the last step was to apply a coat of Glyptal to the inside of both cases. Glyptal is an enamel based sealer, so once it dries, it is tough to remove. To insure that the sealer only coated the intended surfaces, each case half was carefully taped and covered. Once the Glyptal was applied, it was cured in an over for two hours at 275 degrees Fahrenheit. The result was a hard slick coat of Glyptal and a set of cases ready for assembly.
Editors Note:
If you would like to contribute to the completion of this bike please use the link below.
This project started on Black Friday of 2013 with just a set of engine cases and will end with a complete 1933 Harley-Davidson VL making a cross country run in the fall of 2014. Already a great deal of progress has been made on the restoration of this motorcycle, but more funding is needed to see this project through to the end. Additional articles will continue throughout the remainder of this build and will result in a complete digital archive which takes the reader through the restoration of a 1933 Harley-Davidson, step by step. By making this information available freely online, future vintage motorcycle enthusiasts will be able to rebuild and maintain these great machines.
We have already gained the support of many of the top compaines in the vintage motorcycle industry. If you would like to see your company’s logo included not only on the motorcycle, but also on every article, please contact me directly to learn more about our marketing campaign and advertising opportunities. EMAIL
Sponsored By
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The Amazing SHRUNKEN FXR Updated
By Bandit |
Once upon a time there was a bike built called the Shrunken FXR. Keith “Bandit” Ball, of Bikernet and other assorted fame, built it. By a stroke of good fortune the bike became mine through the generosity and trust of Keith Ball.
This bike was my daily commuter for a handful of years. It was and is always a challenge and a ton of fun navigating the streets and freeways of Los Angeles on two wheels and especially on a custom built motorcycle.
I decided it was time to update the look of the bike as well as do some fine-tuning of a few mechanical items I wanted to switch up a bit. Below is a brief summary of what was done, again primarily with the help of friends and some extra cash from my Pops to help get it all finished up proper.
First I replaced the front fork tubes with new fork tubes made by Forking by Frank. Styles have changes, so I installed new handlebars, 10-inch baby apes mated to Black Boyd Motor Co. risers.
I work at the magnificent ARCH motorcycle company and LA Chop Rods, so natch; I installed Black Anodized hand controls by ISR purchased. They are absolutely the best and contain the mechanical Bandit approved styling.
I replaced the mirrors with 2-inch Blind spot jobs by CRG (Small and work great). We
Powder-coated the classic Performance machine wheels black (Thanks to Custom Metal Finishing in Gardena CA, who handle the high-end ARCH motorcycle extreme perfectionist coating).
We manufactured a new Shift arm and Brake arm to improve function. Ryan Boyd, Boyd Motor Co./Arch Motorcycle, is a master machinist and engineer. He configured then machined these components to enhance the rear brake functions, and it now works like a charm, plus it improved shifting dramatically.
We replaced the pegs with something sport bike like and again Ryan stepped up to design and machine one-off mounting bracket adaptors.
We reworked the exhaust basically back to the original first version, added BBQ paint and LA County Chop Rods baffles.
These upgrades, in addition to the rear shocks by Progressive and my comfy Saddlemen seat make the Shrunken FXR road ready and looking fresh for 2016.
Me owning this bike and updating would not be possible without the help and kindness of the following wonderful humans beings: Keith “Bandit” Ball, Dr. Ladd Terry, Gard Hollinger, Ryan Boyd, Jose Laguna, Saddlemen, L.A. County Chop rods, Custom Metal Finishing, Boyd Motor Co., Frank’s maintenance and engineering.
Here’s a link to the original feature, if you search the Shrunken FXR on Bikernet, you’ll find all the build articles: http://www.bikernet.com/pages/Amazing_Shrunken_FXRThe_Full_Feature.aspx
–Buster Cates
BIKERNET RESOURCES
The Magnificent ARCH motorcycle factory
LA Chop Rods
Saddlemen
BDL
Progressive Suspension
Rebirth of an American Classic: The Build Begins
By Bandit |
After months of planning, my 1933 Harley-Davidson build officially started on Black Friday. That’s when I made the long trip up to Replicant Metals (www.replicantmetals.com), located a mere 7 hours north of me in Pennsylvannia. Owner Tom Feezer was waiting for me with a set of matched 1933 VL cases when I walked into the shop. These will serve as the basis for my build and are the most important part as the VIN number stamped on these cases is what makes the motorcycle a ’33 model. I plan to stay true to what the factory produced in ’33, but technically anything I build with these cases will be titled as a ’33 Harley-Davidson.
Setting aside the cases, I started making a pile of the other parts: heads, cylinders, cams, flywheels, rods and cam cover. Everything needed a trip through the blasting cabinet to knock off 80 years of built up grease and grime. Before loading up the blast cabinet, some of the parts needed to be broken down further, including the cases and the cam cover.
Starting with the cases, there were still some cylinder studs which needed to be removed.
Normally, I’d just use the old two nut trick to back them out, but Tom actually had a specialty tool from Snap-On for removing them. The tool comes with a number of collets which are sized for different thread pitches and bolt diameters. You screw the collet onto the stud and then slide a collar down over the collet. The opposite end of the collet in threaded on the outside, which allows you to screw a nut onto which forces the collar down the collet. As the collar slides down the collet, it tightens the collet onto the stud. Once the collet is secured onto the stud, you just unscrew the entire set up as one piece. The result is easy stud removal without damaging the stud or the case.
The idler gear and shaft also needed to be removed which was accomplished by first removing the retaining ring which keeps the gear on the shaft. After removing the retaining ring, the idler gear slid right off without any problems. The shaft proved to be a trickier to get out, but we were able to carefully pry it out after threading a bolt into the end of it. Using blocks of wood to protect the case, a small pry bar was slipped under the bolt head to pry out the shaft.
Next I turned my attention to the cam cover, which turned out to be the most complicated part to disassemble. Unlike modern motorcycles, the VL cam cover is used to houses the oil pumps and timer. All of these parts are held in with flathead screws, so special attention was paid not to damage them. The first step was to give everything a get soak in Kroil penetrating lubricant.
That did the trick for all but one screw. In the end, it took careful heating of the cam cover with a torch to break that last screw loose. These parts had enough surface grease on them that the needed to be cleaned in lacquer thinner to get them to a state suitable for putting in the blast cabinet.
Now I had enough parts to get started on the blasting process. The cabinet was filled with a fine grain aluminum oxide medium, which is gentle enough not to cause serious damage to the aluminum. Still, it was important to keep the gun moving back and forth to make sure that no one spot was cleaned to aggressively and to keep the overall color and surface texture even. As a precaution, I also taped over the VIN number just to make sure that it wasn’t damaged as well as plugging all the bushing holes.
About half a day was spent blasting the cases, cam cover, oil pumps, timer parts, connecting rods and flywheels before I moved onto the cams. The V-series engine uses four gear driven cams, much like a modern Sportster, each cam as one lobe which opens either and exhaust or an intake valve. Upon close inspection of my cams, I discovered that the worm gear on cam #4, which drives the oil pump, was damaged.
This is an easy fix if you have a replacement shaft available. On V-series cams, the shafts are pressed onto the gear/lobe clusters, so to make this repair I just had to press out the damaged shaft and press in a replacement. Harley designed these cams with an alignment tab, so they can only be assembled in the correct orientation.
When the repair was complete, the cams went into the blast cabinet to clean up the gears. I was careful not to blast any surfaces that would come in contact with the bushings in the case or cam cover.
Lastly I turned my attention to the cylinders and heads. The cylinders were in good shape, without any broken fins and only bored .005” and .010” over stock. All they required was removing the old hi-temp paint from the external surfaces in the blast cabinet. The heads had some minor fin damage which is very common on flatheads. Fins can be easily snapped off when removing the heads if the wrong tool is used.
Since the damage to my heads was not extensive, I decided to use a die grinder to smooth out the broken fins. Once painted, they should blend together nicely and it will take careful inspection to spot the damaged areas.
The heads were placed in the blast cabinet for final cleaning. To help protect my freshly cleaned heads and cylinders, they were all sprayed with an aircraft primer made by Tempo. Don’t be alarmed by the green color, they’ll get top coated black.
After a few pictures were taken, everything was boxed up to be sent out to the machine shop for inspection. After the machinist gives the ok on these parts, they’ll come back to the shop for a final cleaning to remove any debris left by the blasting process. Then it will be time to rebuild the engine.
Editors Note:
If you would like to contribute to the completion of this bike please use the link below.
This project started on Black Friday of 2013 with just a set of engine cases and will end with a complete 1933 Harley-Davidson VL making a cross country run in the fall of 2014. Already a great deal of progress has been made on the restoration of this motorcycle, but more funding is needed to see this project through to the end. Additional articles will continue throughout the remainder of this build and will result in a complete digital archive which takes the reader through the restoration of a 1933 Harley-Davidson, step by step. By making this information available freely online, future vintage motorcycle enthusiasts will be able to rebuild and maintain these great machines.
We have already gained the support of many of the top compaines in the vintage motorcycle industry. If you would like to see your company’s logo included not only on the motorcycle, but also on every article, please contact me directly to learn more about our marketing campaign and advertising opportunities. EMAIL
Sponsored By:
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Sturgis Shovel Gets A Wrap
By Robin Technologies |
The Sturgis Shovel has seen its share of LA Harbor town back alleys in the eight years of pounding the streets around Wilmington, California. The exhaust is really starting to show the effects of the road and weather. Originally these hand fabricated pipes were painted with barbeque paint found lying around the Bikernet Intergalactic Headquarters. Surface rust was starting to take hold, and I really needed to do something about it. The Sturgis Shovel was built to be a “Take no crap, back alley brawler,” so shiny powder coating or chrome just wasn’t going to cut it. I had to research my options and come up with a quick and simple, yet great looking backyard solution to my problem.
I decided I would sand the pipes down to bare metal and spray them with VHT High Temp, Flat Black Exhaust Paint. Then I contacted J&P Cycles for a 50-foot roll of Design Engineering Inc., 2-inch Titanium Exhaust wrap and called it a day.
Once you have the pipes removed from the bike, getting the rust and old paint off is the first step. How you go about this is completely up to you, send them out for media blasting, grab your DA sander and some 120 grit, or do what I did, just pull up a lawn chair, with some 120 grit sandpaper and go to it. How you get to bare metal isn’t important, but getting there is, if you want a good looking final product.
Now, we were ready for painting or so we thought. Before you get your spray cans out make sure to degrease the freshly sanded metal with either a metal prep or lacquer thinner. There are a lot of high heat exhaust paints out there and you can use which ever brand you feel most comfortable with. I decided to go with VHT FLAMEPROOF COATING in flat black. Here’s what they say about their product:
VHT FLAMEPROOF COATING
VHT FlameProof Coating will renew and extend the life of any surface exposed to extremely high temperatures. This unique coating is a matte finish, silicone ceramic base widely used by the automotive industry on exhaust systems and the aerospace industry for jet engines, re-entry vehicles and other high temperature applications. VHT FlameProof Coating will withstand temperatures up to 2000°F (1093°C) and is ideal for use on headers, exhaust systems, or wherever an extreme temperature coating is needed.
Specs:
Temperature: 1300°F-2000°F (704°C-1093°C)
Applications: Headers, Exhaust Manifolds, Piston Domes, Inside Heads
Finish: Flat
Painting an exhaust pipe should be a simple thing, but getting them in a position that does not require you to have the flexibility of a Hollywood stripper, to paint all the surfaces can take some thought. I decided to hang it from the rafter of my patio awning which allowed me to climb all around it without having to throw my back out.
Spraying the VHT FLAMEPROOF paint is much like spraying any other spray paint. Keep the can moving, from about 8 to 10 inches away, and remember multiple light coats are better then one heavy coat. ‘
VHT recommends multiple coats with only a 10 or 15 minute time between coats if you get sidetracked and come back to spray your second or third coat after more then an hour you should wait 7 days for the paint to surface cure before you apply your next coat. So make sure that Hollywood stripper I was discussing earlier doesn’t sidetrack you or this step could take awhile.
VHT FLAMEPROOF COATING does require curing and VHT includes some specific instructions on how to do this.
Curing FlameProof
VHT FlameProof Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to instructions on the can).
Off the Vehicle
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes
Caution: Do not exceed the temperature of the least heat tolerant component or the base metal
On the Vehicle
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Run at idle for 10 minutes
Cool for 20 minutes
Run at idle for 20 minutes
Cool for 20 minutes
Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes
Using the household oven was going to be a non-starter, between the pipes not fitting and the wife giving me absolutely no doubt as to what her thoughts were… I looked at the barbeque. This made perfect sense as the pipes would fit, and I do have a temperature meter on the barbeque. Unfortunatel that option was not going to be allowed either. This left me with few options and as the Sturgis Shovel is currently tore down getting a top end rebuild, curing will need to wait until after the pipes were wrapped with the DEI exhaust wrap and the Shovel was ready to ride again.
Note: I am not sure how this will turn out, so I recommend following VHT’s instructions or just not let the wife know what you plan to do with her oven. I will post an update as to the outcome of this experiment once the Shovel tears up the streets once more.
Once I finished painting and curing(?) the exhaust pipe, it was time to get wrapping. J&P Cycles has a large selection of exhaust wrap to choose from in their online catalog and after looking at all the different options I decided to order the Design Engineering Inc, Titanium Exhaust Wrap Part #308-159. I also had them throw in a package of DEI’s 8-inch Stainless Steel tie wraps to secure the ends.
The DEI Titanium wrap has some great benefits over other exhaust wraps on the market. I could tell you all about its awesome carbon fiber look, or how it doesn’t need to be wetted down before wrapping. But I will instead just let the guys at Design Engineering Inc. fill you in on the details.
Titanium exhaust wrap, with LR Technology, is made from pulverized lava rock and stranded into a fiber material and woven into a proprietary weave. Titanium wrap is engineered to be stronger than most wraps and more durable for improved thermal performance and reliability. Perfect for any automotive or motorcycle application!
•Withstands 1800°F direct/2500°F intermittent heat
•Promotes increased flow for improved performance
•Reduces temperature & vibration breakdown
•Extremely pliable for a tight and secure wrap
•DEI HT Silicone Coating not required
•Pre-wetting roll not necessary for wrapping
•Hi-tech carbon fiber look
•High resistance to abrasions, oil spills, temperatures and vibration breakdown
pasting
(Note: Design Engineering HT Silicone Coating Spray is NOT recommended for DEI Titanium Wrap.)
As usual my order from J&P Cycles showed up almost as fast as I hit the enter key on the order form. Once the wrap arrived I looked over DEI’s directions and proceeded to start wrapping the pipe.
To start the process you first must decide which direction you want the overlap to be facing as it will effect the look.
I decided I liked the look of the overlap facing the front of the bike so I started my wrap at the rear of the pipe.
Once you have made a couple of complete wraps of the pipe use a plastic zip tie to temporarily secure the exhaust wrap. Pulling the wrap tight, keep wrapping the pipe overlapping about ½- inch, at the bends you will need to stretch the wrap and vary the overlap to get a smooth wrap. Just keep wrapping until you get to the end. Keeping the wrap tight is critical to the looks of the finished product. We don’t want any loose, flapping in the wind exhaust wrap do we?
There are plenty of different ways you can do it. I prefer to wrap the exhaust wrap around the pipe pulling it tight as I go, other people will tie one end of the exhaust wrap to an immovable object and roll the exhaust pipe onto the stretched wrap. Both ways will work, so try it out and see which way works best for you.
When you get to the exhaust flange or the end of the pipe, if you decided to wrap your pipe backwards cut the wrap about 1-inch long and fold it under to hide any fraying using another zip-tie to secure this end.
Now that you are finished wrapping the pipe and are happy with the results, it is time to replace those zip-ties with either Stainless Steel Zip-ties or Stainless Steel hose clamps they will both get the job done and look good doing it at the same time.
Well that wraps it up. Now, if only I could install the bastards and go for a ride…
Atomic Bob Original Art for Sale at Atomic Bob Shop
By Bandit |
I got on the horn with Atomic Bob to ask him to donate some art for the upcoming Flying Piston Benefit online auction in Daytona on March 4, 2024.
Instead of answering the question, Bob growled about those thieving sonsabitches hacking his Instagram account and were digitally squatting on his property.
He can’t DM, he can’t post directly, and he can’t get it back through Instagram. And the thieves want 250 hostage money!
I said, “250K?”
No, $250 and I won’t pay it. If I find them, they won’t do it again! After he got that off his chest, we discussed his new store. He’s now offering his original masterpieces at the Atomic Bob Shop on Facebook. And here’s a kicker—he’s drawing inspiration from the vibrant 2000s era!
2000s? During this time, Atomic Bob lived his best life with zero worries. Picture this: motorcycles, cars, cash—anything he fancied, he had it.
With a grin, the Atomic One shared, “Those were the days!”
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Apparently, he use to embrace a perpetual cloud of smoke because, hey, who cared? “I was in my 20s, living the dream. But then I thought I should be a responsible adult and stick to legal stuff—like being an alcoholic,” he chuckled…
Ah, the Atomic Bob wisdom!
Atomic has since put the whiskey down and picked up the pipe. Since Ohio is now a cannabis state, he likes to kick back, relax and paint high.
If you haven’t seen Atomic Bob’s artistic style, then you are in for a treat. He seamlessly blends pinstriping, custom paint and illustration with a distinctive touch. Renowned for his imaginative creations, Atomic Bob’s art frequently features themes revolving around monsters and eyeballs, adding a unique and captivating flair to his work.
Bob then took me through a couple of his works in his Atomic Bob Store.
The first piece of art originated in 2014, was completed in Atomic Bob’s grandma and grandpa’s basement. His girlfriend Kelly had kicked him out for the last time and got him locked up as well.
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“I was feeling down as I paged through a magazine and saw this T-Bird,” explained Atomic. “I had this building down by the railroad tracks. I decided I was going to call it Atomic Dice Custom Paint. This T-Bird was going to be my new logo. I remember I was mad because I had to start my life over yet again, get sober and blah, blah, blah.”
The T-Bird was drawn in-between fights and arguments and all kinds of chaos, including yelling and smoking cigarettes late into the night.
“The lucky boy or girl out there who gets this can honestly light it on fire and dance naked in the dark,” said Bob.
Another interesting piece is an original autobiographical art piece of Atomic Bob’s ‘51 DeSoto. His lead sled was slammed with exhaust coming out of the rear quarter panel.
This framed piece fell on his head when the cops came to arrest him, while slamming him against the wall. He reframed it, of course, but you can still see little slices in the parchment where the cops stepped on the art.
“When you’re an alcoholic for so long as I was, there’s a lot of moments I missed. I actually stare at things in order for shit to start to come back to me,” explained Atomic.
And that’s where the story gets cool. So, when somebody buys this, it will be like, “Oh man, the artists got arrested, the damn thing fell on him, and it was stomped by a cop. What’s not to like?”
“So, I’m living in the 2000s with my music. Feeling the good vibes. Smoking pot and taking care of myself,” Bob said. “I am grateful for what I have. I’m not abusing my body.”
“The medical industry might be able to fix me, but I can tell you right now, I’m not going to make it worse because I ultimately have to make money with my hands and my arms and everything.”
So, getting back to my original question for Atomic Bob. “Of course, I’ll be happy to help the Flying Piston Benefit,” he said. The sponsor BIG FRIG will send him (2) 64oz growlers. One for the event held in the pavilion at Teddy Morse’s Daytona Harley-Davidson and one for Bob’s own purposes. We can’t wait!
Links:
BIG FRIG – https://bigfrig.com/
FLYING PISTON BENEFIT – https://flyingpistonbenefit.com/
ATOMIC BOB SHOP – https://www.facebook.com/groups/1324617964909190
The cousin for Harley-Davidson X440
By Wayfarer |
Even as X440 takes on the local behemoth Royal Enfield, the global two-wheeled giant Hero MotoCorp’s Mavrick 440 was unveiled in India at Hero World 2024.
Based on the Harley-Davidson X440, it features a power-roadster design philosophy and will be available for bookings in February 2024.
The Mavrick was co-developed in association with Harley-Davidson and is based on the X440. Available in five colour options, across variants, dealerships will accept bookings from February 2024 with deliveries beginning April 2024.
Harley-Davidson X440 and Mavrick 440 share the same engine and trellis frame. Yet it looks drastically different and may not appeal to those who loved the X440 design derived from Harley-Davidson XR1200.
Mavrick 440 will likely compete well against those left behind by the X440, including the big four Japanese brands. In all of this, the other retro-cruisers such as recently announced Honda CB350 and Jawa Forty-two and the Roadsters from Yezdi and TVS seem lost in the noise, with less brand appeal and even less after-sales expectations.
Find out the detailed specs, features and updates at
https://www.heromotocorp.com/en-in/motorcycles/Mavrick.html
With the launch of Mavrick 440, the buyers of Harley-Davidson X440 might also breathe a sigh of relief as the doubt for after-sales-service and parts might get resolved. Hopefully, H-D’s franchising strategy with Hero and Chinese QJ Motors (for China market) is a long-term strategy. I doubt if Harley-Davidson will again disappear overnight —since Hero has engaged so much resources, it is likely a tight, well-planned partnership.
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Annual Mecum Auction at Las Vegas 2024
By Wayfarer |
33rd Annual Vintage and Antique Motorcycle Auction by Mecum Auction at Las Vegas
January 24-27, 2024
ADDRESS
South Point Hotel & Casino
9777 Las Vegas Blvd S
Las Vegas, NV 89183
VIEW LOTS: https://www.mecum.com/auctions/las-vegas-motorcycles-2024/lots/
FOOD & BEVERAGE
The South Point Hotel & Casino offers a variety of favorites and local cuisine. Food and beverage stands are located throughout the facility.
Payment Options
Cash and credit or debit cards are accepted.
RV/CAMPINGRV/CAMPING
Camping on-site at the South Point Casino is not allowed. Campgrounds are available in the area and individuals are encouraged to check local listings for more information.
MOTORCYCLE SHIPPING
Whether you’re consigning your motorcycle or purchasing a new one, HaulBikes Motorcycle Transportation will deliver your bike safely to its new home! Contact HaulBikes at 888-HAULBIKES today. View rate information.
ROAD ART SHIPPING
Navis Pack & Ship
6185 S Valley View Blvd, Suite L
Las Vegas, NV 89118
lasvegas@gonavis.com or (702)494-9616
*All Road Art must be retrieved by 12:00 PM on Sunday, January 28. Any remaining items will be shipped via our preferred shipping company at the winning bidders expense.
ACCESSIBILITY
Scooter & Wheelchair Rental Information
Personal wheelchairs and mobility scooters are allowed. No on-site rental options are available.
Golf Carts
Personal golf carts are prohibited.
PETS
For the safety and comfort of both pets and people, the admittance of any and all animals is prohibited at every Mecum event, unless the pet is a service animal under the federal guidelines of the Americans with Disabilities Act or similar state or local laws.
LOST & FOUND
To report a lost item, please contact us at (262) 275-5050 or email info@mecum.com.
TV Schedule: Friday, Jan. 26 from noon to 5 p.m. (Live on MotorTrend+) and Saturday, Jan. 27 from noon to 5 p.m. (Live on MotorTrend+) (All times Pacific)
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Tell ’em Bikernet.com sent ya !
Colorado Motorcycle Expo 2024
By Wayfarer |
COLORADO MOTORCYCLE EXPO 2024
JANUARY 27, 2024 – 9:00am – 7:00pm
JANUARY 28, 2024 – 9:00am – 4:00pm
AT THE NATIONAL WESTERN COMPLEX IN DENVER
GET TICKETS https://www.coloradomotorcycleexpo.com/
Saturday Ticket = $25
Sunday Ticket = $20
Due to parking restrictions, we are unable to offer VIP tickets this year.
$2 discount for Military and 65+ (with proper ID at the door only)
Children 12 and under are free
A MOTORCYCLE EVENT YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS…
LARGEST INDOOR MOTORCYCLE SWAP MEET IN AMERICA!
The expansive venue, spanning 300,000 square feet, accommodates up to 800 vendor booths and swap meet tables. We welcome vendors of diverse varieties, ensuring you’ll find exactly what you’re looking for.
LARGEST MOTORCYCLE SHOW IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN REGION
Showcasing approximately 100 bikes vying for top honors in up to 20 categories, the Colorado Motorcycle Expo stands as the largest and premier motorcycle show in the Rocky Mountain region.
USED MOTORCYCLES FOR SALE IN THE CORRAL
Explore our selection of available used bikes for sale, or bring your own to sell. Join us for an incredible opportunity to present your bike to a vibrant audience of thousands!
LIVE MUSIC, ENTERTAINMENT, AND SO MUCH MORE
Experience the energy of live bands, captivating solo acts, engaging adult activities, a dedicated kid’s zone, and much more. There’s something for everyone!
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Tell ’em Bikernet.com sent ya !
Is Green the New Gray Area
By Bandit |
For as long as I can remember – which is getting to be a LONG time! – those of us who love riding motorcycles and have devoted a large part of our lives to preserving and protecting our way of life have been telling anyone who would listen that the enemies of motorcycling don’t just want to pass more and more restrictive laws where we’re concerned.
Their ultimate goal is to get us off the road entirely. A prime example of this is the recent push to outlaw internal combustion engines, just one of the issues the Motorcycle Riders Foundation and our partners in the state motorcyclists’ rights organizations and the motorcycle aftermarket are fighting head on.
So why are internal combustion engines under attack? The Biden administration is calling for one in two new cars sold in the 2030s to be fully electric. Federal incentives intended to prop up ‘green’ proposals have been pushed through Congress. In some states, these initiatives have become all the rage, calling for the elimination of all internal combustion engines and the end of fossil fuels as an energy source.
California’s plan to ban all internal combustion engines by 2035 is the most obvious of these, while similar plans have been launched around the country and the world. On the surface, that might sound bleak for those of us who love our gasoline-powered bikes, cars, trucks, and boats, but there may be good news on the horizon. As more research is coming to light from a feasibility, a financial, and an environmental perspective, initiatives targeting zero greenhouse gas emissions are being reexamined.
The Connecticut state legislature, like their counterparts in California, initially targeted the elimination of internal combustion engines by 2035, but has now decided to pump the brakes, killing Senate Bill 1145 which would have set unattainable greenhouse gas emission goals. Part of that bill would have penalized non-compliant parties up to $25,000 PER DAY for not meeting stated objectives, labeling the penalties as a ‘tax’. Other uncoordinated decarbonization ‘roadmap bills’ are still being considered in Connecticut, but the all-out push to join states like Massachusetts, California, and others is on the decline.
Ohio is pushing back as well. Their state legislature recently passed House Bill 201, signed into law by Governor Mike DeWine. HB 201 prohibits state agencies, counties, or townships in Ohio “from restricting the sale or use of a motor vehicle based on the energy source used to power the motor vehicle.” It also specifically prohibits a state agency from adopting the California emissions standards for motor vehicles. ABATE of Ohio played a major role in getting this law on the books. In northern Europe, Norway, which had targeted zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2030, is likewise backing off on its plan as its feasibility becomes less certain.
None of this is to say that we shouldn’t be concerned about pollution. We absolutely need to address these issues, especially in our major cities. But the outright elimination of vehicles powered by fossil fuels is not the answer.
Regarding the general public’s opinion on an all-electric solution, many people are less than enthusiastic about moving away from gasoline-powered alternatives. According to the Sierra Club, in 2022 66% of car dealerships did not have an electric vehicle for sale. We can only assume that’s because there was no market for them. Today, thousands of car dealerships around the country are pushing back on the Biden plan, saying they can’t sell the electric vehicles they already have in stock.
Car manufacturers are backing off as well, curtailing production of new EVs. Why is that?
First and foremost, electric vehicles are expensive. Some studies suggest that people who can afford to buy all-electric cars represent a finite group, and that many of those consumers have already purchased an EV car or truck, meaning the available pool of buyers is shrinking. Also problematic is that due in large part to the high cost of battery replacement, there is a very small market for used electric vehicles. Basically, no one wants to buy them knowing that a big repair bill is headed their way. While battery technology will likely improve in coming years, as of today that technology and questions about the cost of building a sufficient charging infrastructure are major concerns for consumers.
Finally, we should never forget that for the ‘nanny state’ crowd, going all the way back to Ralph Nader and the original safety-crats of the 1960s, the mantra has remained the same. That being, where safety is concerned, the public can’t be trusted to make their own decisions or manage their own risks. In other words, these fine folks think they’re smarter and better equipped to make policy decisions than us mere citizens. In their delusionary ‘Road to Zero’ world – where there will be zero accidents and zero fatalities – the best way to get there is to get rid of what they consider to be dangerous activities – like riding motorcycles. Eliminating internal combustion engines could go a long way towards achieving that goal.
Just as we have since the 1980s, the Motorcycle Riders Foundation is standing up for motorcycling, fighting against issues like the elimination of internal combustion engines, and we need every concerned rider to join us in our mission. If you’re not already a member of the MRF, my only question to you would be ‘why not?’
by Mark Buckner
Executive Director –
Executive Director –
Motorcycle Riders Foundation
The answer:
https://mrf.org/join
https://mrf.org/join
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