Bikernet Banner

Updating the Bikernet Experience

Hey, Here’s the deal. We’ve worked and spent an entire year to move all Bikernet Free Content (16,000 articles) onto a fast-acting, mobile-friendly, google accessible, WordPress Platform. ...
Read More

Rebirth of an American Classic: Case Repairs

 
Before the engine could be rebuilt, the cases needed some additional work to repair a damaged portion of the front baffle.  It appears that an unknown piece of debris was wedged between the backside of the baffle and the flywheel which eventually knocked a hole right through the baffle.
 
 
 
Since HD engine cases are made from aluminum, the best method for repairing the hole was to use a TIG welder to fill in the missing material.  The hole was located at the thinnest portion of the baffle, so a piece of copper plate was used to cover the hole and provide support for the weld.
 
 
The entire case half was then placed in a parts oven set to 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 45 minutes.  This helped to bake out the old motor oil which had impregnated the case over the years and ensured that the entire case was at equal temperature for welding.  The heating also revealed that there were a number of cracks radiating out from the hole which also needed to be fixed.  By the time the hole, the cracks and the casting imperfections had been repaired, I was left with a good deal of weld to grind away.
 
 
 
The backside of the baffle was easy to reach and was ground back into shape with the help of a curved template and a flap wheel mounted to a hand drill.  The top of the baffle was much harder to grind with standard tools, so it was necessary to make a custom router bit using an aluminum sleeve epoxied to a ½” four fluted end mill.
 
 
 
Working slowly, I removed about 1/32” of excess weld with each pass of the router.  Liberal amounts of Teflon lubricant was used throughout the process.  After every pass the chips were removed and new lubricant was added to make sure no damage was caused by the aluminum sleeve riding against the case.
 
 
 
After some final shaping, the repair was complete and I moved onto chasing the threads for all the tapped holes.
 
 
Next, both case halves received a thorough cleaning.  All the holes were cleaned out with wire brushes attached to a hand drill to remove any aluminum chips and other debris.  From there the cases were soaked in warm soapy water and scrubbed with bristle brushes.  Then each case was carefully blown dry with compressed air, paying careful attention to blow out all holes and orifices.
 
 
 
Once the cases were clean and dry, the last step was to apply a coat of Glyptal to the inside of both cases.  Glyptal is an enamel based sealer, so once it dries, it is tough to remove.  To insure that the sealer only coated the intended surfaces, each case half was carefully taped and covered.  Once the Glyptal was applied, it was cured in an over for two hours at 275 degrees Fahrenheit.  The result was a hard slick coat of Glyptal and a set of cases ready for assembly.
 
 
 
Editors Note:
If you would like to contribute to the completion of this bike please use the link below.
 
This project started on Black Friday of 2013 with just a set of engine cases and will end with a complete 1933 Harley-Davidson VL making a cross country run in the fall of 2014.  Already a great deal of progress has been made on the restoration of this motorcycle, but more funding is needed to see this project through to the end.  Additional articles will continue throughout the remainder of this build and will result in a complete digital archive which takes the reader through the restoration of a 1933 Harley-Davidson, step by step.  By making this information available freely online, future vintage motorcycle enthusiasts will be able to rebuild and maintain these great machines.

We have already gained the support of many of the top compaines in the vintage motorcycle industry.  If you would like to see your company’s logo included not only on the motorcycle, but also on every article, please contact me directly to learn more about our marketing campaign and advertising opportunities. EMAIL

 
Sponsored By
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Read More

Bennett’s Performance Final, Maybe

Bennett’s Performance touts being the performance test bed for all-things big twin performance and handling in Long Beach, California. The team is also very involved in Bonneville Land Speed Record efforts. Unless the California Air Resources Board decides to shut down every California custom or performance shop, they will be burning rods, turning lathes, and twisting wrenches until they die.

I say, “They,” and I’m referring to Eric Bennett, the boss, and his longtime mechanic and Dad, Bob. Other technicians come and go. Plus, next-door are the men, including Jerry Branch, and John O’Keefe, who are the masters of the flow bench and headwork at the Branch O’Keefe machine shop.

All shops big and small in California live in fear of being shut down. But let’s not go there. For a few minutes let’s pretend that freedom rings in this country and our political structure loves folks who build anything from hot rods to custom motorcycles. They even support the notion that loud pipes saves lives, because it’s true. They love it that guys don’t beat their wives or do drugs, that they learn how to work with their hands and create something one-off, which they can ride to work or to Sturgis with pride. Am I dreaming or what?

Eric recently came across this 2004 Dyna and decided to research every performance resource and build himself the best hot rod Dyna on the planet, as a test project for anything performance, for Twin-Cams. He did, and we followed the process on Bikernet.com, and this is the third and last stellar episode. But wait, their could be more, according to Eric’s assessment at this point.

“I need to change the shocks,” Eric said. “They are too low and shifting the weight to the rear. I need to tighten the handling.”

Eric was pushing is Dyna onto his shop dyno as we strolled into Bennett’s Performance, a very clean and well-organized shop, a couple of weeks ago. “I wanted to dyno it one final time without a rev limiter,” he said and discovered a dyno malady. The battery was low. At about 5500 rpms the dyno results didn’t indicate a smooth transition through the gears, but jumpy results. He was dying to try again, but we were forced to take a break.

 
 

“We’ve run across jumpy dyno results with other rubbermounted bikes, specifically Dynas,” Eric said. With the dyno fixed he removed his air cleaner and backing plate to allow the carb to float. Then he changed his 48 mm Mikuni main jet to the next larger size, for more fuel, and he retarded his timing one notch. He pulled it twice on the dyno and was proud to watch it jump from 117 hp, and to 119 hp, and 121 pounds of Torque. The power range was perfect for street use.
 
 

Eric now has 1978 miles on the bike since he rebuilt and upgraded the engine from 88 inches to 106. Shortly after the bike was completed and running, his dyno pulls indicated 112 hp and 119 pounds of torque, then 116 hp and 118 pounds of torque with a carb change, more miles and tuning. 

 

 Our discussion shifted back to handling. “At 100 it starts to wiggle,” Eric said, “There’s too much weight on the back.” He plans to install 14-inch Ohlins. Today, the lower badder look is slipping away for the jacked, terrific suspension, badass, dirt bike, café racer, SOA, go fast appearance.

We discussed the new CCE stiffer rubbermounts for Dynas, which might do the trick. “I still won’t be able to dial-in the handling as well as FXRS, like the Unknown Industry guys,” Eric said. “With my handling issues, they pulled away at just over 100 mph. The front feels fine, but I haven’t decided what to do with my number plate. Newer Dynas have additional gussets, but nothing like the FXR, period!”

He plans to black out the wheels and add Michelin tires, but he loves this engine configuration. “It’s perfect,” Eric said. “I didn’t need to machine the cases or crank up the compression. The cam isn’t radical, and I could run stock cylinders.” Jerry Branch told Eric that engines are like a combination lock. One number off and the system doesn’t work.

He’s currently looking for an ’06 or ’07 Dyna 17-inch rear wheel, and he will run a 160 tire. “It still gets 42 mpg. Reaching more than one horsepower per cubic inch with a naturally aspirated engine. It’s impressive.”

The S&S lower end contains a 4.5-inch stroke with 3 7/8-inch S&S pistons. Eric blocked the Mikuni carb out one inch to allow the air and fuel to atomize more before it reached the intake valves. “It’s a smoother delivery to the chambers,” Eric said. “We were lucky to score a set of Dave Thew heads designed for monster JIMS 116-inch motors by the Branch/O’Keefe team. This combination with 2.02 intake and 1.610 exhaust valves, and some slight porting, coupled with a Redshift .647 lift cam, and 11.5:1 compression gave Dave Thew 132 ass-kicking horsepower and 132 pounds of torque.

Dave’s bike with fat tanks and beach bars could not be beat at the drags.

I spoke to Eric’s dad who talked of his Bonneville bikes and going after a 167 mph record. Eric was the rider. “We couldn’t get over 161, but then I learned about aerodynamics. I gained 9 mph by moving the pipes inboard. We gained another 5 mph when Eric shifted his riding position and tucked one foot behind the primary.” They grabbed a record.

So, you can tell by the smell of go-fast, the posters of Burt Munro on the wall, and the Bennett record next to the counter, that this group is all about motorcycles and folks who ride hard and fast. Hang on for the next report.

Bikernet.com Extreme Bennett’s Performance Tech Chart
 
Regular Stuff
Owner: Eric BennettBike
Name: Brute
City/State: Signal Hill Ca
Builder: Eric BennettCity/state: Signal Hill, CA
Company Info: Bennett’s Performance Inc.

Address: 1940 Freeman Ave,Signal Hill Ca, 90755

Phone: 562 498 1819
Fabrication: Bennett’s
Manufacturing: Harley-Davidson
Welding: me
Machining: me
 
 
Engine
 
Year: 2004
Make: Custom
Model: Twin cam
Displacement: 106 cubic inches
Builder or Rebuilder: Eric Bennett
Cases: H-D
Case finish: Black
Barrels: H-D turned round By Branch
Bore: 3 7/8-inch
Pistons: S & S
Barrel finish: stock
Lower end: S&S
Stroke: 4 ½-inch
Rods: S&S
Heads: Branch #4 Dave Thew mods
Head finish: Stock
Valves and springs: AV&V
Pushrods: S&S
Cams: 585 S&S
Lifters: S&S
Carburetion: Mikuni 48 mm modified by Bennett’s
Air cleaner: S&S muscle
Exhaust: D & D Bob cat modified by Bennett’s
Mufflers: D&D Bob Cat
 

Transmission
 
Year: 2004
Make: H-D
Gear configuration: Stock 5-speed with wpc treatment
Primary: stock
Clutch: Rivera Primo Pro Clutch
Final drive: Stock
 
 
Frame
 
Year: 2004
Builder: H-D
Style or Model: Dyna
Stretch:stock
Rake:stock
 

Front End
 
Make: H-D Speed Merchant
Model: 2004 Dyna sport
Year: 2004
Length: Stock
Mods: Speed Merchant Trees, risers, grips
 
 
Sheet metal
 
Tanks: H-D
Fenders: stock
Panels: stock
Oil tank: factory
 
Paint
 
Sheet metal: nicked Black
Molding: none
Graphics: Nothing yet, maybe pinstriping
Type: Factory
Pinstriping: Maybe George the Wild Brush
 
 
Wheels
 
Front
 
Make: H-D
Size: 19-inch
Brake calipers: Brembo
FrontBrake rotor(s): Lyndall
Tire: Metzler
 

Rear
 
Make: H-D

Size: 16-inchBrake calipers: Stock
Brake rotor: Lyndall
Pulley: H-D

Tire: Dunlop
 
 
Controls
 
Foot controls: Factory stock Master cylinder: H-D
Brake lines: Barnett
Handlebar controls: Factory Clutch
Cable: Barnett
Brake Lines: Barnett
Shifting: Stock
Kickstand: Factory
 

Electrical
 
Ignition: Dyna twin cam 88
Ignition switch: H-D
Coils: H-D
Regulator: Stock
Charging: Spyke
Starter: H-D
Wiring: Mostly stock
Headlight: Alloy Art
Taillight: Alloy Art
 
What’s Left
Seat: Le Pera
Mirror(s): Speed Merchant
Gas caps: Stock
Handlebars: Todd’s Cycle
Grips: Speed merchant
Pegs: Speed Merchant
Oil filter: Hi Flo
Oil cooler: Jag
Throttle cables: Barnett
Fasteners: Unbrako
 
 
Specialty items: Custom Number Plate fabricated by Brandon at Speed Merchant
 
 
Credits: S&S Cycle, Alloy Art, Speed Merchant, Mikuni Carbs, Rivera Primo, Bikernet, Lyndall Racing Brakes.
 
 
Sources 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Read More

Bikernet Bike Build: BETSY’S REVIVAL STORY Part 2

 
     Oncethat trailer gate hit the driveway back at home I could see tired ol’Betsy begging for another chance at life! As I walked aroundthe trailer she lay resting after the 1500 mile journey back. Iassessed the impending task of making this Ol’ girl right again.
 
“Rode hard and put up wet,” I said to myself thinkingof all the journeys and adventures she served Scooter Tramp Scotty through.As I took in every line every worn out part of this soul servingmachine I tried to imagine all the places she saw, all thelandscapes, the women who made passenger, the endless white lines stretched for over half-a-million miles. The nomadicvessel of freedom that is this motorcycle I now have the honor ofsorting out to make whole again.
 
 
     Ilugged the broken pieces of this ’88 Electra Glide into the garageone by one. With an enthusiastic fire burning inside that I’vebecome a master at harnessing, I went straight to rearranging the shop foraccommodation of the new project. The work bench was clearedand the sorting of parts began, one-by-one. The bike “formallyknown as” Betsy quickly became a shell of her former self.The quest to get to her skeleton was my frantic goal, because there iswhere the worst lie waited to be healed. The evening faded to nightquickly and sleep was beckoning.

Tomorrow would be a new daybut with it came the disruptive chore of work so Betsy would laywaiting for my 6:30 return from the daily grind.
 
 
    Ipulled in to the house with anxious anticipation to strip her down tothat rusted and broken frame.As all parts lay categorized on the bench, I was left staring at 20years of grease and road grime thicker than the remaining paint theMoCo laid down 29 years prior. Before I could send this frameto repair, I had to get the layers of gunk off.
Thoughtsimmediately flooded my mind of just how many states and how manycountries this dirt belongs to! As I started scraping andcompiling clump by clump into the jar my imagination raced again intothe tapestry of visions stretching from Panama to Alaska where thistrusty companion carried her rider faithfully. I was holding inmy hand crust of the earth scooped up by Scooter Tramp Scotty’s gypsyjourneys traversing the entire North American continent for twodecades. WOW!
 
 
    Nowof course you know all of this has been documented in picturesthrough social media and through that incredible juggernaut I wasable to reach. I announced toFacebook land my intentions with Betsy and the response wasoverwhelming. This resurrection would only be possible withhelp of the great people who reached out to aid in thisreconstruction.
With the frame in real bad shape, it became my first and most important part of the restoration. An unsuspecting buddy reached out to me.Little did I know, he had been following the unfolding of theRevival of Betsy. Mr. Steve Brownell of Brownell Metal Studio, who has been a great friend of mine for a number of years extendedhis professional welding expertise. You see Steve has been inmetal manipulation for over 30 years doing high-end architectural andstructural work for some of Virginia’s finest establishments. Amaster welder and fabricator in every type of metal from brass,stainless, bronze, aluminum and steel, his craftsmanship is upperechelon in the industry.

     Bringingthis exhausted carcass to his hands of healing was a no brainer.I asked Steve, “Can you fix her road ravaged frame, brother?”He smiled ear to ear responding, “Of course I can.””I’ll have her back together better than the day sherolled off the assembly line.” My confidence in thisrevival mirrored the words from Steve’s mouth at that moment. Iknew this was the beginning of Betsy’s second coming!
 
 
     Stevewasted no time in tackling the task. Explaining to me how he had been followingScotty’s adventure, as many have, he was piqued by the ScooterTramp’s offbeat lifestyle and was excited to be a part of Betsy’srebirth. First line of business was tobead blast every square inch of the frame to expose any unseen rot or cracks laying camouflaged beneath the patina’d paint. Steve went towork uncovering what would soon become a little more than a brokenframe rail.
 
With three portions of the frame cracked and thebottom section of the frame rails looking like Swiss cheese, Stevecut out the cancered sections and replaced those portions withupgraded stainless steel meticulously melding the two metals togetherin one seamless blend of strength and integrity that won’t see rustagain at least in those portions. Hand shaping a few new panelsto replace and reinforce the swingarm junctures and a kickstand mountready for another twenty years of parking lot profiling, restorativefabrication COMPLETE!
 
Mr. Brownell even offered, as an addedbonus, to give her a two coats of primer, a fresh coat or three ofpaint, and shine her up with plenty of clear. She will onceagain be the prettiest girl at the ball or rally. I only sawthe process in pictures as you are now, but all I can sayis..AMAZING! Putting thirty plus years of quality experiencebreathing new life into a piece of true biker Americana, SteveBrownell, executed flawlessly.
 
 
     Igot the call about a week after drop off– the surgery was asuccess. The following morning I anxiously drove out toBrownell Metal Art Studio anticipating the unveiling of Betsy 2.0.Upon arrival I had that knot in my stomach as if meeting a girl forthe first time..fucking motorcycle..it was like the morning ofChristmas as a child all over again.
 
As I walked into the shopSteve met me upon entering with a shit eating grin, I knew it wasgoing to good. I said to him, “I see things went well.”
 
He replied, “Piece of cake.”
 
We walked over to theother half of the shop and lying in the middle of the floor restingon a piece of cardboard as to preserve the fresh paint from beingdamaged, sat the old girl. At first glance, I searched for arusted worn out hunk of metal until my gaze fell upon the gleam ofthe newly painted frame sparkling under the shop lights.
 
HOLYSHIT!..I couldn’t believe what I was seeing I had to double take.As I walked over to inspect Steve’s handy work I looked back at himreciprocating the same “shit eating” grin. I wasfloored. Having to remind myself that this is indeed the samerusted wore out tubes of iron I dropped off a week earlier. Wetook our time and carefully loaded the fresh chassis into the truckmaking sure all was secure and photos were taken.

      Ahuge expression of gratitude goes out to my friend Steve Brownell forselflessly donating his time and materials to bring this GypsyMachine back from the dead. As a fellow biker himself Stevereiterated to me a manta I hear and have used time and again, “That’swhat we do, brother.” With a new lease on life I closedthe tailgate behind the NEW girl, gave Steve a big appreciative hug,then drove off waving as I watched Steve and the crew in the rearview sending us on our way to future adventures yet to come.

 
 
     Onthe ride back home I glanced behind me whispering, as if that framewas my girlfriend, in no time she will feel whole again.
 
“She’s a cheating Bitch,” Scotty.
 
Read More

The Amazing SHRUNKEN FXR Updated

Once upon a time there was a bike built called the Shrunken FXR. Keith “Bandit” Ball, of Bikernet and other assorted fame, built it. By a stroke of good fortune the bike became mine through the generosity and trust of Keith Ball.

This bike was my daily commuter for a handful of years. It was and is always a challenge and a ton of fun navigating the streets and freeways of Los Angeles on two wheels and especially on a custom built motorcycle.

I decided it was time to update the look of the bike as well as do some fine-tuning of a few mechanical items I wanted to switch up a bit. Below is a brief summary of what was done, again primarily with the help of friends and some extra cash from my Pops to help get it all finished up proper.

First I replaced the front fork tubes with new fork tubes made by Forking by Frank. Styles have changes, so I installed new handlebars, 10-inch baby apes mated to Black Boyd Motor Co. risers.

I work at the magnificent ARCH motorcycle company and LA Chop Rods, so natch; I installed Black Anodized hand controls by ISR purchased. They are absolutely the best and contain the mechanical Bandit approved styling.

I replaced the mirrors with 2-inch Blind spot jobs by CRG (Small and work great). We
Powder-coated the classic Performance machine wheels black (Thanks to Custom Metal Finishing in Gardena CA, who handle the high-end ARCH motorcycle extreme perfectionist coating).

We manufactured a new Shift arm and Brake arm to improve function. Ryan Boyd, Boyd Motor Co./Arch Motorcycle, is a master machinist and engineer. He configured then machined these components to enhance the rear brake functions, and it now works like a charm, plus it improved shifting dramatically.
We replaced the pegs with something sport bike like and again Ryan stepped up to design and machine one-off mounting bracket adaptors.

We reworked the exhaust basically back to the original first version, added BBQ paint and LA County Chop Rods baffles.
These upgrades, in addition to the rear shocks by Progressive and my comfy Saddlemen seat make the Shrunken FXR road ready and looking fresh for 2016.

Me owning this bike and updating would not be possible without the help and kindness of the following wonderful humans beings: Keith “Bandit” Ball, Dr. Ladd Terry, Gard Hollinger, Ryan Boyd, Jose Laguna, Saddlemen, L.A. County Chop rods, Custom Metal Finishing, Boyd Motor Co., Frank’s maintenance and engineering.

Here’s a link to the original feature, if you search the Shrunken FXR on Bikernet, you’ll find all the build articles: http://www.bikernet.com/pages/Amazing_Shrunken_FXRThe_Full_Feature.aspx

–Buster Cates

BIKERNET RESOURCES

The Magnificent ARCH motorcycle factory

LA Chop Rods

Saddlemen

BDL

Progressive Suspension

Read More

Rebirth of an American Classic: The Build Begins

 
 
 
After months of planning, my 1933 Harley-Davidson build officially started on Black Friday.  That’s when I made the long trip up to Replicant Metals (www.replicantmetals.com), located a mere 7 hours north of me in Pennsylvannia.  Owner Tom Feezer was waiting for me with a set of matched 1933 VL cases when I walked into the shop. These will serve as the basis for my build and are the most important part as the VIN number stamped on these cases is what makes the motorcycle a ’33 model. I plan to stay true to what the factory produced in ’33, but technically anything I build with these cases will be titled as a ’33 Harley-Davidson.
 
 
Setting aside the cases, I started making a pile of the other parts: heads, cylinders, cams, flywheels, rods and cam cover. Everything needed a trip through the blasting cabinet to knock off 80 years of built up grease and grime. Before loading up the blast cabinet, some of the parts needed to be broken down further, including the cases and the cam cover.  
Starting with the cases, there were still some cylinder studs which needed to be removed.
 
Normally, I’d just use the old two nut trick to back them out, but Tom actually had a specialty tool from Snap-On for removing them. The tool comes with a number of collets which are sized for different thread pitches and bolt diameters.  You screw the collet onto the stud and then slide a collar down over the collet. The opposite end of the collet in threaded on the outside, which allows you to screw a nut onto which forces the collar down the collet. As the collar slides down the collet, it tightens the collet onto the stud. Once the collet is secured onto the stud, you just unscrew the entire set up as one piece. The result is easy stud removal without damaging the stud or the case.
 
 
The idler gear and shaft also needed to be removed which was accomplished by first removing the retaining ring which keeps the gear on the shaft. After removing the retaining ring, the idler gear slid right off without any problems. The shaft proved to be a trickier to get out, but we were able to carefully pry it out after threading a bolt into the end of it.  Using blocks of wood to protect the case, a small pry bar was slipped under the bolt head to pry out the shaft.
 
 
Next I turned my attention to the cam cover, which turned out to be the most complicated part to disassemble. Unlike modern motorcycles, the VL cam cover is used to houses the oil pumps and timer. All of these parts are held in with flathead screws, so special attention was paid not to damage them. The first step was to give everything a get soak in Kroil penetrating lubricant.
 
 
That did the trick for all but one screw. In the end, it took careful heating of the cam cover with a torch to break that last screw loose. These parts had enough surface grease on them that the needed to be cleaned in lacquer thinner to get them to a state suitable for putting in the blast cabinet.
 
 
Now I had enough parts to get started on the blasting process. The cabinet was filled with a fine grain aluminum oxide medium, which is gentle enough not to cause serious damage to the aluminum. Still, it was important to keep the gun moving back and forth to make sure that no one spot was cleaned to aggressively and to keep the overall color and surface texture even. As a precaution, I also taped over the VIN number just to make sure that it wasn’t damaged as well as plugging all the bushing holes.
 
 
About half a day was spent blasting the cases, cam cover, oil pumps, timer parts, connecting rods and flywheels before I moved onto the cams. The V-series engine uses four gear driven cams, much like a modern Sportster, each cam as one lobe which opens either and exhaust or an intake valve. Upon close inspection of my cams, I discovered that the worm gear on cam #4, which drives the oil pump, was damaged.
 
 
This is an easy fix if you have a replacement shaft available. On V-series cams, the shafts are pressed onto the gear/lobe clusters, so to make this repair I just had to press out the damaged shaft and press in a replacement. Harley designed these cams with an alignment tab, so they can only be assembled in the correct orientation. 
 
 
When the repair was complete, the cams went into the blast cabinet to clean up the gears. I was careful not to blast any surfaces that would come in contact with the bushings in the case or cam cover.
 
Lastly I turned my attention to the cylinders and heads. The cylinders were in good shape, without any broken fins and only bored .005” and .010” over stock. All they required was removing the old hi-temp paint from the external surfaces in the blast cabinet. The heads had some minor fin damage which is very common on flatheads. Fins can be easily snapped off when removing the heads if the wrong tool is used.
 
 
Since the damage to my heads was not extensive, I decided to use a die grinder to smooth out the broken fins. Once painted, they should blend together nicely and it will take careful inspection to spot the damaged areas. 
 
 
The heads were placed in the blast cabinet for final cleaning. To help protect my freshly cleaned heads and cylinders, they were all sprayed with an aircraft primer made by Tempo. Don’t be alarmed by the green color, they’ll get top coated black.
 
 
After a few pictures were taken, everything was boxed up to be sent out to the machine shop for inspection. After the machinist gives the ok on these parts, they’ll come back to the shop for a final cleaning to remove any debris left by the blasting process. Then it will be time to rebuild the engine.
 
 
Editors Note:
If you would like to contribute to the completion of this bike please use the link below.
 
This project started on Black Friday of 2013 with just a set of engine cases and will end with a complete 1933 Harley-Davidson VL making a cross country run in the fall of 2014.  Already a great deal of progress has been made on the restoration of this motorcycle, but more funding is needed to see this project through to the end.  Additional articles will continue throughout the remainder of this build and will result in a complete digital archive which takes the reader through the restoration of a 1933 Harley-Davidson, step by step.  By making this information available freely online, future vintage motorcycle enthusiasts will be able to rebuild and maintain these great machines.

We have already gained the support of many of the top compaines in the vintage motorcycle industry.  If you would like to see your company’s logo included not only on the motorcycle, but also on every article, please contact me directly to learn more about our marketing campaign and advertising opportunities. EMAIL

 
 
Sponsored By:
 
 
 
 
 
 
Read More

Sturgis Shovel Gets A Wrap

 
The Sturgis Shovel has seen its share of LA Harbor town back alleys in the eight years of pounding the streets around Wilmington, California. The exhaust is really starting to show the effects of the road and weather. Originally these hand fabricated pipes were painted with barbeque paint found lying around the Bikernet Intergalactic Headquarters. Surface rust was starting to take hold, and I really needed to do something about it. The Sturgis Shovel was built to be a “Take no crap, back alley brawler,” so shiny powder coating or chrome just wasn’t going to cut it. I had to research my options and come up with a quick and simple, yet great looking backyard solution to my problem.

 

I decided I would sand the pipes down to bare metal and spray them with VHT High Temp, Flat Black Exhaust Paint. Then I contacted J&P Cycles for a 50-foot roll of Design Engineering Inc., 2-inch Titanium Exhaust wrap and called it a day.
 
 
Once you have the pipes removed from the bike, getting the rust and old paint off is the first step. How you go about this is completely up to you, send them out for media blasting, grab your DA sander and some 120 grit, or do what I did, just pull up a lawn chair, with some 120 grit sandpaper and go to it. How you get to bare metal isn’t important, but getting there is, if you want a good looking final product.

 

Now, we were ready for painting or so we thought. Before you get your spray cans out make sure to degrease the freshly sanded metal with either a metal prep or lacquer thinner. There are a lot of high heat exhaust paints out there and you can use which ever brand you feel most comfortable with. I decided to go with VHT FLAMEPROOF COATING in flat black. Here’s what they say about their product:
 

 
 

VHT FLAMEPROOF COATING

VHT FlameProof Coating will renew and extend the life of any surface exposed to extremely high temperatures. This unique coating is a matte finish, silicone ceramic base widely used by the automotive industry on exhaust systems and the aerospace industry for jet engines, re-entry vehicles and other high temperature applications. VHT FlameProof Coating will withstand temperatures up to 2000°F (1093°C) and is ideal for use on headers, exhaust systems, or wherever an extreme temperature coating is needed.

Specs:
 
Temperature: 1300°F-2000°F (704°C-1093°C)

Applications: Headers, Exhaust Manifolds, Piston Domes, Inside Heads

Finish: Flat

Painting an exhaust pipe should be a simple thing, but getting them in a position that does not require you to have the flexibility of a Hollywood stripper, to paint all the surfaces can take some thought. I decided to hang it from the rafter of my patio awning which allowed me to climb all around it without having to throw my back out.
 
Spraying the VHT FLAMEPROOF paint is much like spraying any other spray paint. Keep the can moving, from about 8 to 10 inches away, and remember multiple light coats are better then one heavy coat. ‘
 
VHT recommends multiple coats with only a 10 or 15 minute time between coats if you get sidetracked and come back to spray your second or third coat after more then an hour you should wait 7 days for the paint to surface cure before you apply your next coat. So make sure that Hollywood stripper I was discussing earlier doesn’t sidetrack you or this step could take awhile.

 

VHT FLAMEPROOF COATING does require curing and VHT includes some specific instructions on how to do this.

Curing FlameProof

VHT FlameProof Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to instructions on the can).

Off the Vehicle
 

Paint must be completely dry before curing
Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes

Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes
 

Caution: Do not exceed the temperature of the least heat tolerant component or the base metal

On the Vehicle
 

Paint must be completely dry before curing
Run at idle for 10 minutes
Cool for 20 minutes
Run at idle for 20 minutes
Cool for 20 minutes

Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes
 

Using the household oven was going to be a non-starter, between the pipes not fitting and the wife giving me absolutely no doubt as to what her thoughts were… I looked at the barbeque. This made perfect sense as the pipes would fit, and I do have a temperature meter on the barbeque. Unfortunatel that option was not going to be allowed either. This left me with few options and as the Sturgis Shovel is currently tore down getting a top end rebuild, curing will need to wait until after the pipes were wrapped with the DEI exhaust wrap and the Shovel was ready to ride again.
 
Note: I am not sure how this will turn out, so I recommend following VHT’s instructions or just not let the wife know what you plan to do with her oven. I will post an update as to the outcome of this experiment once the Shovel tears up the streets once more.
 

 

Once I finished painting and curing(?) the exhaust pipe, it was time to get wrapping. J&P Cycles has a large selection of exhaust wrap to choose from in their online catalog and after looking at all the different options I decided to order the Design Engineering Inc, Titanium Exhaust Wrap Part #308-159. I also had them throw in a package of DEI’s 8-inch Stainless Steel tie wraps to secure the ends.

The DEI Titanium wrap has some great benefits over other exhaust wraps on the market. I could tell you all about its awesome carbon fiber look, or how it doesn’t need to be wetted down before wrapping. But I will instead just let the guys at Design Engineering Inc. fill you in on the details.
 
 
 
 

Titanium exhaust wrap, with LR Technology, is made from pulverized lava rock and stranded into a fiber material and woven into a proprietary weave. Titanium wrap is engineered to be stronger than most wraps and more durable for improved thermal performance and reliability. Perfect for any automotive or motorcycle application!
 
•Withstands 1800°F direct/2500°F intermittent heat 

•Promotes increased flow for improved performance
•Reduces temperature & vibration breakdown
•Extremely pliable for a tight and secure wrap
•DEI HT Silicone Coating not required
•Pre-wetting roll not necessary for wrapping
•Hi-tech carbon fiber look

•High resistance to abrasions, oil spills, temperatures and vibration breakdown
pasting
 
(Note: Design Engineering HT Silicone Coating Spray is NOT recommended for DEI Titanium Wrap.
 

As usual my order from J&P Cycles showed up almost as fast as I hit the enter key on the order form. Once the wrap arrived I looked over DEI’s directions and proceeded to start wrapping the pipe.

To start the process you first must decide which direction you want the overlap to be facing as it will effect the look.

 

 

I decided I liked the look of the overlap facing the front of the bike so I started my wrap at the rear of the pipe.
 

 
 
Once you have made a couple of complete wraps of the pipe use a plastic zip tie to temporarily secure the exhaust wrap. Pulling the wrap tight, keep wrapping the pipe overlapping about ½- inch, at the bends you will need to stretch the wrap and vary the overlap to get a smooth wrap. Just keep wrapping until you get to the end. Keeping the wrap tight is critical to the looks of the finished product. We don’t want any loose, flapping in the wind exhaust wrap do we?

 

There are plenty of different ways you can do it. I prefer to wrap the exhaust wrap around the pipe pulling it tight as I go, other people will tie one end of the exhaust wrap to an immovable object and roll the exhaust pipe onto the stretched wrap. Both ways will work, so try it out and see which way works best for you.
 
When you get to the exhaust flange or the end of the pipe, if you decided to wrap your pipe backwards cut the wrap about 1-inch long and fold it under to hide any fraying using another zip-tie to secure this end. 
 
 

Now that you are finished wrapping the pipe and are happy with the results, it is time to replace those zip-ties with either Stainless Steel Zip-ties or Stainless Steel hose clamps they will both get the job done and look good doing it at the same time.
 

 
 
 

Well that wraps it up. Now, if only I could install the bastards and go for a ride…
 
 
 
Read More

Atomic Bob Original Art for Sale at Atomic Bob Shop

I got on the horn with Atomic Bob to ask him to donate some art for the upcoming Flying Piston Benefit online auction in Daytona on March 4, 2024.
Instead of answering the question, Bob growled about those thieving sonsabitches hacking his Instagram account and were digitally squatting on his property.

He can’t DM, he can’t post directly, and he can’t get it back through Instagram. And the thieves want 250 hostage money!

I said, “250K?”

No, $250 and I won’t pay it. If I find them, they won’t do it again! After he got that off his chest, we discussed his new store. He’s now offering his original masterpieces at the Atomic Bob Shop on Facebook. And here’s a kicker—he’s drawing inspiration from the vibrant 2000s era!

2000s? During this time, Atomic Bob lived his best life with zero worries. Picture this: motorcycles, cars, cash—anything he fancied, he had it.
With a grin, the Atomic One shared, “Those were the days!”

Apparently, he use to embrace a perpetual cloud of smoke because, hey, who cared? “I was in my 20s, living the dream. But then I thought I should be a responsible adult and stick to legal stuff—like being an alcoholic,” he chuckled…

Ah, the Atomic Bob wisdom!

Atomic has since put the whiskey down and picked up the pipe. Since Ohio is now a cannabis state, he likes to kick back, relax and paint high.

If you haven’t seen Atomic Bob’s artistic style, then you are in for a treat. He seamlessly blends pinstriping, custom paint and illustration with a distinctive touch. Renowned for his imaginative creations, Atomic Bob’s art frequently features themes revolving around monsters and eyeballs, adding a unique and captivating flair to his work.
Bob then took me through a couple of his works in his Atomic Bob Store.

The first piece of art originated in 2014, was completed in Atomic Bob’s grandma and grandpa’s basement. His girlfriend Kelly had kicked him out for the last time and got him locked up as well.

“I was feeling down as I paged through a magazine and saw this T-Bird,” explained Atomic. “I had this building down by the railroad tracks. I decided I was going to call it Atomic Dice Custom Paint. This T-Bird was going to be my new logo. I remember I was mad because I had to start my life over yet again, get sober and blah, blah, blah.”

The T-Bird was drawn in-between fights and arguments and all kinds of chaos, including yelling and smoking cigarettes late into the night.

“The lucky boy or girl out there who gets this can honestly light it on fire and dance naked in the dark,” said Bob.

Another interesting piece is an original autobiographical art piece of Atomic Bob’s ‘51 DeSoto. His lead sled was slammed with exhaust coming out of the rear quarter panel.

This framed piece fell on his head when the cops came to arrest him, while slamming him against the wall. He reframed it, of course, but you can still see little slices in the parchment where the cops stepped on the art.

 

“When you’re an alcoholic for so long as I was, there’s a lot of moments I missed. I actually stare at things in order for shit to start to come back to me,” explained Atomic.

And that’s where the story gets cool. So, when somebody buys this, it will be like, “Oh man, the artists got arrested, the damn thing fell on him, and it was stomped by a cop. What’s not to like?”

“So, I’m living in the 2000s with my music. Feeling the good vibes. Smoking pot and taking care of myself,” Bob said. “I am grateful for what I have. I’m not abusing my body.”

“The medical industry might be able to fix me, but I can tell you right now, I’m not going to make it worse because I ultimately have to make money with my hands and my arms and everything.”

So, getting back to my original question for Atomic Bob. “Of course, I’ll be happy to help the Flying Piston Benefit,” he said. The sponsor BIG FRIG will send him (2) 64oz growlers. One for the event held in the pavilion at Teddy Morse’s Daytona Harley-Davidson and one for Bob’s own purposes. We can’t wait!
 
 
 
 
Links:
 

BIG FRIG – https://bigfrig.com/
FLYING PISTON BENEFIT – https://flyingpistonbenefit.com/
ATOMIC BOB SHOP – https://www.facebook.com/groups/1324617964909190

Read More

The cousin for Harley-Davidson X440

Even as X440 takes on the local behemoth Royal Enfield, the global two-wheeled giant Hero MotoCorp’s Mavrick 440 was unveiled in India at Hero World 2024.

Based on the Harley-Davidson X440, it features a power-roadster design philosophy and will be available for bookings in February 2024.

The Mavrick was co-developed in association with Harley-Davidson and is based on the X440. Available in five colour options, across variants, dealerships will accept bookings from February 2024 with deliveries beginning April 2024.

Harley-Davidson X440 and Mavrick 440 share the same engine and trellis frame. Yet it looks drastically different and may not appeal to those who loved the X440 design derived from Harley-Davidson XR1200.

Mavrick 440 will likely compete well against those left behind by the X440, including the big four Japanese brands. In all of this, the other retro-cruisers such as recently announced Honda CB350 and Jawa Forty-two and the Roadsters from Yezdi and TVS seem lost in the noise, with less brand appeal and even less after-sales expectations.

Find out the detailed specs, features and updates at
https://www.heromotocorp.com/en-in/motorcycles/Mavrick.html

With the launch of Mavrick 440, the buyers of Harley-Davidson X440 might also breathe a sigh of relief as the doubt for after-sales-service and parts might get resolved. Hopefully, H-D’s franchising strategy with Hero and Chinese QJ Motors (for China market) is a long-term strategy. I doubt if Harley-Davidson will again disappear overnight —since Hero has engaged so much resources, it is likely a tight, well-planned partnership.

* * * *

Read More

Annual Mecum Auction at Las Vegas 2024

33rd Annual Vintage and Antique Motorcycle Auction by Mecum Auction at Las Vegas

January 24-27, 2024

ADDRESS
South Point Hotel & Casino
9777 Las Vegas Blvd S
Las Vegas, NV 89183

VIEW LOTS: https://www.mecum.com/auctions/las-vegas-motorcycles-2024/lots/

FOOD & BEVERAGE
The South Point Hotel & Casino offers a variety of favorites and local cuisine. Food and beverage stands are located throughout the facility.

Payment Options
Cash and credit or debit cards are accepted.

RV/CAMPINGRV/CAMPING
Camping on-site at the South Point Casino is not allowed. Campgrounds are available in the area and individuals are encouraged to check local listings for more information.

MOTORCYCLE SHIPPING
Whether you’re consigning your motorcycle or purchasing a new one, HaulBikes Motorcycle Transportation will deliver your bike safely to its new home! Contact HaulBikes at 888-HAULBIKES today. View rate information.

ROAD ART SHIPPING
Navis Pack & Ship
6185 S Valley View Blvd, Suite L
Las Vegas, NV 89118
lasvegas@gonavis.com or (702)494-9616

*All Road Art must be retrieved by 12:00 PM on Sunday, January 28. Any remaining items will be shipped via our preferred shipping company at the winning bidders expense.

ACCESSIBILITY
Scooter & Wheelchair Rental Information
Personal wheelchairs and mobility scooters are allowed. No on-site rental options are available.

Golf Carts
Personal golf carts are prohibited.

PETS
For the safety and comfort of both pets and people, the admittance of any and all animals is prohibited at every Mecum event, unless the pet is a service animal under the federal guidelines of the Americans with Disabilities Act or similar state or local laws.

LOST & FOUND
To report a lost item, please contact us at (262) 275-5050 or email info@mecum.com.

TV Schedule: Friday, Jan. 26 from noon to 5 p.m. (Live on MotorTrend+) and Saturday, Jan. 27 from noon to 5 p.m. (Live on MotorTrend+) (All times Pacific)

* * * *
Tell ’em Bikernet.com sent ya !

Read More

Colorado Motorcycle Expo 2024

COLORADO MOTORCYCLE EXPO 2024

JANUARY 27, 2024 – 9:00am – 7:00pm
JANUARY 28, 2024 – 9:00am – 4:00pm

AT THE NATIONAL WESTERN COMPLEX IN DENVER

GET TICKETS https://www.coloradomotorcycleexpo.com/

Saturday Ticket = $25
Sunday Ticket = $20

Due to parking restrictions, we are unable to offer VIP tickets this year.

$2 discount for Military and 65+ (with proper ID at the door only)
Children 12 and under are free

A MOTORCYCLE EVENT YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS…

LARGEST INDOOR MOTORCYCLE SWAP MEET IN AMERICA!

The expansive venue, spanning 300,000 square feet, accommodates up to 800 vendor booths and swap meet tables. We welcome vendors of diverse varieties, ensuring you’ll find exactly what you’re looking for.

LARGEST MOTORCYCLE SHOW IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN REGION
Showcasing approximately 100 bikes vying for top honors in up to 20 categories, the Colorado Motorcycle Expo stands as the largest and premier motorcycle show in the Rocky Mountain region.

USED MOTORCYCLES FOR SALE IN THE CORRAL
Explore our selection of available used bikes for sale, or bring your own to sell. Join us for an incredible opportunity to present your bike to a vibrant audience of thousands!

LIVE MUSIC, ENTERTAINMENT, AND SO MUCH MORE
Experience the energy of live bands, captivating solo acts, engaging adult activities, a dedicated kid’s zone, and much more. There’s something for everyone!

* * * *

Tell ’em Bikernet.com sent ya !

Bikernet Blog

Read More
Scroll to Top