Bikernet East, Zebra Report 8/17/2000:
ZEBRA CRUSHES BANDIT! ARRIVES FIRST IN STURGIS!

Despite overwhelming odds, such as a rev limiter installed secretly byBandit (later ripped out and thrown in the ditch), heavy rain on the eastcoast, phony tags (fuck the Florida DMV), a bleeding gas tank (Bandit issuspected here as well), hail in Atlanta, deer in Kentucky, troopers inIllinois, and a host of other hurdles, as well as a distance over 500 mileslonger than Bandit’s short hop from L.A., Special Agent Zebra rode like anoutlaw and arrived four beers and three Jack and Cokes ahead of Bandit andhad the promised Jack on ice awaiting the West Coast slowpokes. Kudos tothe Doctor of Throttle, Special Agent Zebra.

And in answer to West Coast Chopper’s Jesse James’ question, “Should weconsider Special Agent Zebra a real biker now?”, we at Bikernet.com have ourown questions- how’d that Winnebago ride? Is it a rigid? As Bandit oncesaid, time will tell and shit will smell.

The Great Northern Steamer made the trip up and back, wracking up around-trip total of 6,002 miles on the virgin odometer. Zebra sustained onefried starter motor, two gas tank leaks, one missing kickstand (tore it offon a low left-hand sweeper in Georgia) and a pull-start behind bro andsister Tommy and Mary Ann Mills of Kittanning, PA. Zebra says, “many thanksfor the yank. Got home fine.”

While the Zebra was forced to ride the final 1,300 miles without stoppingor even getting off due to the fried starter motor and missing kickstand, hearrived relatively unscuffed, save for a wracked back and a bit of fatigueinduced delirium.

The actual ChopOff vote, was a washout, since Bandit apparently moved thevote at the last minute to a secret location, garnering every vote.

Stay tuned for the full story, after we wake Zebra up and get him on thekeyboard.

Big Lucy, reporting for Special Agent Zebra, recovering
Bikernet.com East, Miami

Bikernet East, Zebra Report 7/11/2000:
Working with Eddie Trotta of Thunder Cycles in Ft. Lauderdale, I’mputting the finishing touches on the Great Northern Steamer, my entry intothe Bikernet ChopOff 2000. We can’t say what the secret changes are thatwe’re making, as we would tip off Bandit and the crew on the West Coast.But suffice to say, they’ll be good. – Zebra

Bikernet East, Zebra Report 7/15/2000:
In the race to the finish line, I’ve sent out the tanks and rearfender,which Eddie Trotta and his sheetmetal gurus recut and redrilled (theyweren’t satisfied with the fit we got over the rear tire at Bikernet).Eddie Meeks at Hardly Civilized is doing the paint and artwork wasprovided by our own Ink Dink, Jon Towle. Eddie and his men at Thunder Cycles havechecked and double checked, tweaked and poked our geometry. Break-in isscheduled to start ASAP. Tanks and fender should be back and ready tobolt on in three days. Eddie Meeks is fast and Eddie Trotta is even faster.

The goal is to get a few thousand miles on the horse prior to blast off fromMiami Beach, about as far from Sturgis as you can get. Nobody likessurprises and we’re working hard to eliminate as many as possible. Banditis closing fast and the race is narrowing. It may actually come down to avote after all.

Special Agent Zebra
Bikernet.com East
Miami Beach

Bikernet East, Zebra Report 7/24/2000:

In a dark twist of fate, I have fallen behind the dreaded Bandit in ourSturgis 2000 ChopOff, as we near the blast off point. Paint has taken threedays longer than expected and we’ve yet to get even one break-in mile on theGreat Northern Steamer. Eddie Trotta and his boys at Thunder Cycle Designswill be pushing hard to get sheet metal in place, final tail lights wiredand get the big mother RevTech on the asphalt and start the painstakingbreak-in process. Eddie and his boys like to run a bike no more than onemile, bring it back in, check and measure everything, take it back out andrun it two and so on. After they’ve done this several times, they run thebike 25-30, and repeat. You can see how this helps avoid ruining anythingwhich might be slightly off alignment or loose. It’s a good process, but ittakes time, which is something we’re getting damned short on. Bandit hasbeen jeering over the phone daily about how well his scoot is running,although he’s had some clutch difficulties which he’s trying to iron outwith Wrench and the Bikernet West garage gang.

It’s going to be close. Will the Great Northern Steamer leave on time?Will Bandit and the Blue Goose make it from the western country? Will thetorrential Florida rains wash me off the interstate before I can even breakthe Georgia line? Will the searing Death Valley expanse fry Bandit’s enginebefore he can cross into the cool deserts of the north?

It all remains to be seen. Stay tuned as we race to the wire and ourlaunch date, this Saturday at 0-early hundred.

Special Agent Zebra
Bikernet East
Miami Beach

Bikernet East, Zebra Report 7/25/2000:

EAST COAST BIKERS RALLY TO ZEBRA’S AID! RACE TO STURGIS HEATING UP FAST!

In an unexpected show of brotherhood, numerous East Coast bikershave rallied to underdog Special Agent Zebra’s aid in the savage Bikernet.comSturgis 2000 ChopOff. Offers of everything from places to bed down andhome-cooked meals to bullets to broads are pouring in all along the Zebra’sroute. Special Agent Zebra, working with minimal support and even fewerresources, has managed to stay neck and neck with the dreaded Bandit and hismassive phalanx of factory technicians and C.A.D.-assisted motorcycleassembly line at the sprawling Bikernet World Headquarters in San Pedro,California, just south of Los Angeles.It was beginning to look as if Special Agent Zebra was going to haveto run on bailing wire and luck, but with the outpouring of biker brotherhood fromliterally thousands of bikers all along the route, Zebra should have a roadpaved with flying panties, roses, fried chicken and cots all the way toSturgis.

Now if Zebra and Eddie Trotta can sweet talk the local DMV cuss intoallowing them to tag and bless entirely unsafe, illegal freak chopperrolling felony, AAA is dumb enough to insure the fuckin’ thing and somebodyis crazy enough to sell him some high-octane fuel, the race will be on. Amoment of silence to the DMV gods. (Actually, the backup plan is to slap aphony plate on the Great Northern Steamer and hope like hell the local fuzzin the lower 49 don’t read this.)

God bless America and may Bandit drive off into the Grand Canyon.

Big Lucy, filling in for Special Agent Zebra

Bikernet EastMiami Beach

-Just one of hundreds of e-mails pouring in from around the nation insupport of the goodly Zebra in his war against the repulsive bastard,Bandit-

Zebra,

_______________________

I am in Hermitage Tn. Just about 10 miles sw of downtown Nashville. Justoff major interstate cluster (figuratively) of 1-40 guick passage back toI-24. Would be glad to put up a fellow armed gypsy biker, Get you fed, bedand on you way. Would be honored to have you stay at my digs. You have mye-mail. phone is 615/883-6490 home/615/620-5266 work. Let me know your plansand I will make necessary arrangements.

I am sure that we can make it easy for you to fly through the middleTennessee area with no time lost to that scoundrel Bandit. If you read theoriginal message I am sure that you known that I would not hinder anyone’sprogress. I was pulling for the Bikernet East all the way. So just lay atease about that alms thing from the west.

Just a hole in the wall, where a good armed outlaw/gypsy can rest hisweary bones.

RH

Bikernet East, Zebra Report 7/27/2000:

Special Agent Zebra nabbed at Florida DMV!

In a henious turn of events yesterday, Special Agent Zebra was nearlyimprisoned at the Florida Deparment of Vehicles, while trying to registerthe barely legal Great Northern Steamer, Zebra’s entry into the dreadedBikernet ChopOff 2000 competition. Foul play is suspected as one of the MSO(manufactuerer’s statement of origin) was sent by Bandit from the West Coastand in fact was the offending document which led to a rush of State Troopersand much dark swearing and wrestling about.

Upon presentation of his special construction bike, Special Agent Zebra waspromptly informed that he was guilty of a felony in the third degree forattempting to register a motorcycle outside of the area in which he resides.

Sensing danger, Special Agent Zebra made an immediate attempt to abort themission when the DMV agent in charge, a savage cunt with one eye and titsmade from rotting gauze wrapped around cantelopes, called in the FloridaHighway Patrol. A hairy chase ensued as Special Agent Zebra put in somefast break-in miles and managed to give the rule-crazy cops the shake innorthern Miami.

“It’s going to be an outlaw run from here on out,” Zebra told Bandit overthe phone from an undisclosed location. “I’ll deal with you when I get toSturgis, you evil sonofabitch!” Zebra roared, as Bandit bawled with laughteron the other end of the line.

Turns out Bandit sent Zebra an engine MSO from a chopper he’d reportedstolen over ten years ago and then parted out. A dirty trick, consideringthe actual engine Zebra is running in the Great Northern Steamer is a brandnew, monster RevTech 88 given to the Zebra by our fine bros at CustomChrome.

Set up, wanted by the law and running underground now, Zebra is by far theunderdog in this dastardly competition.

It’s anyone’s guess if Zebra can move from one friendly club house to thenext under the cover of darkness as he makes his way along the undergroundbiker railroad to Sturgis, where he will even the score with Bandit.

Bandit, law abiding yuppie that he is will have the advantage, as heblissfully strolls along in broad daylight on his entirely legal cruiser,having worked closely- perhaps too closely (could Bandit be a cop?)- withthe local California Highway Patrol to get his motorcycle licensed.

Stay tuned as we continue to update you on the mad race to the Badlands.

Big Lucy, filling in for Special Agent Zebra

Helluva weekend. Anytime there's lots of motorcycle carnage,sex, whiskey and writing, I'm all for it. Maybe it's Valentines Daycreeping up. Make a note. Here's the deal on the Sturgis Shovelhead. Sincethe engine was in and mounted I went to work on the exhaust system,then seat mounting, position and played with the bars. I made a runto a local steel joint, because I had a notion that I doubt will worknow, but I'm still investigatin'.           

Let's hit the highlights. I'm fortunate to have a young,talented fabricator/builder who I'm sharing ideas and resources with.Kent from Lucky Devil Metal Works in Houston is on the phone dailyfor tips and knowledge sharing. It's damn healthy to have someone whois in the trenches daily to assist. In fact I had a couple ofcrucial metallurgy question that morning, but let's hit what Iaccomplished.           

A crucial aspect of building any bike is planning. That'snot to say all my eggs are in a row. We'll see, but the more you canaccommodate, the less redo's will be necessary. Also, don't throwanything away. That junk part might be a critical bracket tomorrow. Idug through my partially organized pipe bin and found a set of oldglass pack, shorty muffler, shot gun pipes. I could use the rear one.I decided, since noise issues are a concern and performance issue area constant priority, I would build a set of shorty mufflers withBandit tuned baffles.

Then I spotted the fishtips in the pile and myconsideration changed. I dug further. Kenny Price from Samson allowedme to dig through his warranty bin when I was looking for stanchionsfor my Bikernet office railing. I remembered touring mufflers withfish tips, I kept digging.

Sure enough I had a set and in quick movesI sliced them into chunks. You know me, I'm a gambler. I cut themwith no methodology in mind past the size and looks, but I came uplucky. Samson designed a baffle system with a cone at the front toguide exhaust pulses into the baffle and it seems to be working fortouring applications. I cut off that portion and discarded themajority of the baffle. But there was still 2 inches of baffle and astandard donut in the rear of the muffler. That's where fate movedit's evil hand over Richard Kimball again. Or in other words I rolledthe dice.           

I spoke to Kendall Johnson recently and he told me aboutperformance stepped exhaust systems and reversion cones used to tunesystems at the rear of the pipe. I couldn't make this donut move upand back, but I had the makings of a reversion cone at the stern.With a torch I cut out the remaining baffle, then after speaking withthe HOT BIKE staff member, Craig Murrow, for a reversion cone descriptionI knockout out the remaining baffle, then with various cutting andgrinding cones I formed and smooth departure for the exhaust pulses.Then I had to remove the old touring mounts with a die-grinder andthey were ready to weld.           

The rear pipe was comparatively easy since the pipe wasalready made except for the muffler and brackets. Shovelheads arenotorious for louse exhaust manifold connections and tearing out thesingle stud, so I wanted to mount them in the front and rear for asolid, secure connection. The only port for the connection at thefront was the oil bag. That was a bad choice and I'll run a bracket off the seat post before all is said and etched in stone.

I had to make sure the pipe could be removed with the tabs onthe bottom, then I spaced the tabs apart with a heat sink material. Imay use Teflon, then the notion that the oil bag is rubbermountedfloated to the surface. What bearing would that have on thiscoupling? Hell the frame will vibrate like a mad dog. I'm stillquestioning that link, but we'll see, maybe a spring between the tabs? The final decision was the seat post bracket to come.           

There was one other pipe design consideration–the length.I try to keep the pipes somewhat equal and between 32 and 38 inches.Buster's Sportster runs sharp and crisp with his hand-made 38-inchesfrom the Bikernet Headquarters, as seen in Street Chopper. So Idesigned this pipe to be 38-inches and not protrude past the tire. Mygoal was to make the front pipe curve out the other side and be ofequal length.

At the end of Friday night, one pipe was complete, toolswere scattered all over the shop and I had a couple of Hooker Headerchunks of 1 3/4 pipes segments cut and was fooling with the frontheader. The front was tricky as hell. I wanted to scoop out the leftside of the bike, which added length. I also had a bitchin Rohm Engineering oil filter/cooler system that mounts to the front motormounts and aims the filter at the ground for ease of removal anddraining. The pipe had to clear it significantly. This puppy was alifesaver. I planned to run an oil cooler (Shovelheads run hot) andfilter, for a lasting driveline and more oil capacity. My originalplan called for old school mounting on either side of the oil bag.This eliminated all of that and the plumbing for two elements, the cooler and the filter, wasreduced to one hot looking job in front of the engine for maximum cooling.           

I spentall day long on Saturday, dodging the phone and working in thegarage. I had all the tools and materials I needed, even two new setsof welding glasses, which came in damn handy. The trick was to lineup the pipes, make all the right decisions, hope for the best andtack 'em. I did and with a level I constantly compared the pipe tothe top of the lift. The spacing worked out fine.           

I cleared the top of the Rohm bitchin' oil cooler/filter mounthopefully by enough to allow the pipe slip down and out of the head (I was recommended to use a CCI Filter part number 270126).I tacked the tab with a spacer between the two for some jiggle room.And I made damn sure that the pipe tab was below the frame tab. Atthe back, the muffler was fabricated the same as the other one with aslight exception.

I shaped the reversion cone the same, cut off thetouring mounts and ground the tabs. Then I used a couple of V-blocksto hold it perfectly in line for tacking the halves together. Then Isliced off the crush tabs on the front of the Samson tapered muffler.They were wider and different than the other side, so I cut them off.You'll notice the difference, if you check both side.           

The front parts of the pipe were Hooter elements and theyare smooth mandrel bent segments. I used another one for joggedstraight piece between the muffler and the head. I took the 13/4-inch exhaust to my Muffler Master bender and bent it slightly oneway, then reversed the sucka and bent it the other way. It fit like adream and looped out enough to pass the oil bag. I used Hooker headeralignment sleeves to hold the front pieces in perfect alignment. Donedeal, I tacked them, constantly comparing the level with the lift,the pipes then the muffler. After the tacking was secure, another tabwelded to the frame, avoiding the oil bag (a Lucky Devil concern,since the oil bag is rubbermounted), then all elements wererechecked, I removed both pipes and MIG welded them as complete aspossible.

I find that MIG welding is a pain and blows holes in pipes easily.I also discovered that after I MIG weld a pipe I can flow the weldeasily with a torch and smooth out all the welds, fix holes and fillgaps. I actually found a piece of old steel rod, not much bigger thana piece of wire. I usually use old coat hanger, but it pops andwheezes from the paint coating.

After the pipes were welded, flowedand checked twice, I ground all the surfaces with an emery disc andpainted them with whatever barbecue heat paint I had laying around.The lovely Layla is currently on her way back from Home Depot withsome flat black heat paint. We'll see how that works.

Kent from Devil hand fabricated the seat pan, brackets andbungs. I set them up and welded the parts in place. Then it was timeto roll the bike off the lift and see how she fit and where I mightneed heat shields. I discovered a couple of things. Yes, the scootwould require left side heat shields and nothing on the right. I alsotested my notion to sculpt claws out of brass, unsuccessfully.           

I also found that the existing bars wouldn't cut it. Igrabbed the old '48 Panhead TT-bars, narrowed them by 4 inches, and Isorta like them.

Okay, so I grappled with the sculpting business fora couple of hours and discovered that I can't control the brass likeI can steel. I spoke to Kent from Lucky Devil and he recommended thatI try TIG Silicon Bronze rod. I'll try that next week. In themeantime, my first brass sculpting attempt ended up on the shop door.Let's get the hell out of here.           

Ride forever,

–Bandit

Here we go. I’m relunctantly behind the eight ball, or more likely the 5-Ball in this case. The bike is nearly complete and I haven't caught up with the articles. For the most part I was working at Primedia on the bike mags and didn’t have time to breath. No fucking lame excuses. Let’s hit it.

My original plan called for brass sculptures to hang this bastard together in a purely Bandit way. I messed with some odd heavy brass cloverleaf rod that was over a ½ inch in diameter. I wasn’t having my usual creative luck with bending or messing with this material. Kent from Lucky Devil Metal Works in Houston recommended that I use silicone Bronze rod and I’ve since messed with it. I shifted gears from Gargoyles and sculptures to pure mechanics. I started drilling holes is everything.

I discovered a piece of ½-inch wide strap that I thought was copper. Remember that the notion behind this mess is to use as much bare metal as possible. As it turned out the strap was brass so I gave it the Scotch Brite treatment and went to work. Before I made or positioned the rear Custom Chrome chain I needed to align the wheel, the transmission and the engine. I used my BDL inner primary and pulled the loose engine and tranny into position. Then I centered my chain axle adjuster and installed the chain using the CCI instructions (above). I have an old chain breaking tool, so I took out just enough links.

With the chain in place, aligned and adjusted the wheel using the Doherty wheel spacer kit (a life saver). I couldn't mess with the requisite chain guard until all was in the correct groove. Although the Paughco custom frame is designed for a belt, I choose the old school route and it worked out well. Lots of extra space to mess with.

I dug through my drawers of tabs and crap that I’ve had around for 25 years. In the old days Mil Blair would call me from Jammer from time to time and tell me when it was time to shit-can scrap iron. I picked up tabs, spacers and brackets by the fist full and I’ve been moving them from place to place ever since. But damn, when you need a tab it’s bitchin to find just the right size in a drawer. Since I was going nuts with the drilling treatment, I matched the work on the frame with holes in the chain guard and counter sunk the edges for a more rounded look.

I also hit the top motor mount with a similar treatment. To give it a bit of consistency I measured from center to center on the holes and made all the holes the same diameter, 1/4-inch.

The hole deal became an obsession. I started drilling ¼-inch holes in everything including the Joker machine foot controls. I also went after Russell Mitchell’s Scotch Brite code. I swallowed hard and rubbed a piece of chrome with the coarse material and discovered that chrome reflects everything until it’s brushed with the wiry fabric. It gave it a raw material appearance and I decided that it was cool but a pain in the ass to do.

Again, I drilled the holes the same space apart, ¾ of an inch. It’s not always that easy, though. Sometimes the formula just doesn’t work. I use a pair of calipers to hold and mark the distance from hole center to center. If a hole ends up being located too close to an edge of the material, I back off and try another formula. Make sure to plan before you start drilling.

Here’s that damn brass stock. I was determined to have Brass, Copper, Stainless, Aluminum and a bare metal effect on the frame. You’ll see shortly how it worked out. I couldn’t bend that brass shit without destroying it, so I made the shift linkage out of it. I cut it off on a bench lathe and drilled and tapped the ends to 5/16 fine threads to fit the fine thread heim joints. Then I drilled the rod and countersunk the holes to remove the sharp edge.

Here’s one of the Joker Machine control sets, rubbed with Scotch Brite and drilled. They make fine controls, some of the best. You can adjust these puppies anyway you choose to fit your riding position, inseam or foot angle.

Before I leave this chapter I’ll touch on this new petcock from Spyke. It’s incredible, if it works well. It’s designed to give you every option for positioning and spigot direction. I ran into only one problem. No wrench lands to help tighten the bastard.

Check it out. You can run it faced in any direction and still read the switch locations and turn the knob without a lever smacking the frame and components. The spigot set allows builders to face the gas line in any direction.

I used the straight spigot and took off one of the fittings because my tank threads are female. The only problem I had was tightening it down, but I’ll get to that after the powder coating returns from Foremost Powder in Gardenia, California.

This puppy will revolutionize the industry for petcocks, if it works. I’ll let you know in a week or two.

Ride Forever,

–Bandit

My first move began with a correction. I removed the exhaust pipe tab welded to the oil bag. The oilcan is rubber mounted, the exhaust pipe generated severe heat and the pipe system needs to be solidly mounted. It had to go. Actually Kent from Lucky Devil Metal Works in Houston tried not to mention the false move, but his frown gave it away. Or was it that question? “Is your rear pipe really mounted to the fuckin’ oil bag,” Kent said tentatively?

I discovered that the pipe exits the head close to the seat post and worked on a pipe connection there. There are a couple of rules in making pipes that I need to abide by. I needed to remove the pipe once in awhile, so I needed the pipe tab to be on the outside of the frame tab. Often mounting required slack, so I dug around for 1/16-inch washers to run between the tabs. That way when the fasteners are removed there’s some slack to pull the pipe free.

I worked with the pipe fully in place then tacked the seat post tab. Below is the tab tacked to the pipe. Then the tab welded in my shitty MIG welding fashion. I should slow down and clean the base metals more. I generally grind a bevel into the tabs for greater weld penetration. The welds are strong, just not handsome.

Next I needed to attach the Lucky Devil rear fender, align the rear wheel and cut the chain to fit. But first I needed to center the wheel in the frame, sorta. The custom Paughco frame is designed and manufactured to hold a belt pulley and a 180 Avon Tyre. That prevented me from measuring between the frame rails. I needed a straight line down the center of the frame backbone. It’s not incredibly accurate but close to draw a fabic or nylon line down the tube. Then with Doherty space kit and the seal spacers that came with the Custom Chrome aluminum and stainless spoke wheels, plus the Brembo brake caliper bracket, I aligned the wheel.

Before I cut the Rev Tech chain I installed the BDL Belt inner primary and pulled the engine and transmission into place which determined exact spacing. I know I covered this aspect somewhat a couple of chapters ago. There’s been some heavy drinking in the meantime, so if I lose track, it’s on Jack.

I centered the wheel in the chain adjustment slot to give me slack either way. Then I finally cut the chain with a JIMS tool.

I spoke to a couple of guys about sprockets and was told that this contraption will hold a sprocket nut from coming loose better than simply Allen screws in the Custom Chrome sprocket. I may use it or not. Haven’t decided yet.

The reason this is altered is that it’s for a pulley and a different era. Add that to the fact that I flopped the dished sprocket over to space the chain away from the tire. That aspect worked perfectly.

I decided that since the tank was rubber mounted and aluminum won’t flex as well as steel that I would attempt to rubber mount aspects of rear Luck Devil fender. Kent designed and handmade the fenders to match aspects of the XR 750 tank.

Cyril Huze sent me several grommets to work from and this pair are from some late model Sportster application. I measured the O.D. on the center portion and discovered that I needed ½-inch holes in the fender which I drilled after I had mocked up the fender in place, ground a clearance strip for the chain and stood back several times. Arlen Ness once told me that he used a chain wrapped over a tire to space a fender. I needed enough space for fasteners under the fender and some chain adjustment slack either way.

I moved the fender up and back, and side-to-side several times before making any hole-drilling marks. I was a nervous wreck. Ya don’t mess with the Devil’s fender. I finally drilled a half-inch hole, and smoothed the edges, in the bottom of the fender then at the crossover tube. I worked in the rubber with a dab of oil and bolted the bottom stainless bolt in place.

The Sportster grommets have metal inserts, which make them easier to install. With a couple of spacers in place the fastener held the center tab for tacking.

Here’s where it got tricky. I’ve been bending metal with a torch for years. Never improved my technique. Just the other day, a month after I built this fender rail system, I bought a small strap or tube-bending tool. Wish I had it when I went after this project.

First I built the fender strap out of a piece of exhaust pipe bracket. It came with two 3/8-inch coarse tapped inserts in each end. My plan was to build a fender rail system with tubing so I could adapt a couple of running lights on the tips. I carefully bent and drilled the strap and fender.

Then I bent the tubing fender rails to fit over the chain and tacked tab to the Paughco frame. One item I often attempt to use is a level. I’ll level the frame from side to side, then strive to keep all the other elements level. It helps.

Here’s a perfect example. As I finished my welding chores, I got on a roll. I thought– wouldn’t it be cool to weld the fender bolts in place from the bottom. They would never come loose. Note the angle. There was no way they would ever return through their mounting locations. I was forced to grind them off and clean the holes.

Here’s the finished fender rail system. I drilled holes in the frame and the rails to run wires. I still haven’t found the perfect running light style that rocks my boat and will afford me enough room to use the proper fasteners. Hang on!

Not sure why this shot’s here? Okay, I have this thing for drilling holes. Yeah, so what?