Jeremiah bugged me for months. He wanted a new bike, a dresser, no an FXR, maybe a Dyna. He ended up with an insurance settlement from his FLH accident (guy pulled a left directly in front of him) and decided dressers weren’t for his youthful city dweller, hot rod, self. He bought a very low mileage 96-inch, 2009 Dyna Super-Glide.
The bike was clean as a whistle and silver/black and gray, very little chrome. It had a set of Vance and Hines straights, with slight baffles. It has a custom air cleaner, no aftermarket cams, and nothing electronic has been done to this bike.
He chose for his first mod to install a D&D two-into-one Bobcat exhaust system. Eric Bennett likes how D&D systems are delivered with the heat shields and exhaust flanges in place. “They are a breeze to install.”
Jeremiah went for the all-black ceramic-coated system and a carbon fiber wrap on the shorty, kicked muffler for the proper ground clearance. He ordered a Le Pera Daytona, two-up, basket-weave seat to match. For a while he avoided the SOA fairing fade, but he’s beginning to buckle. “It will block the wind,” he said.
Jeremiah stopped at a dealership and bought a set of Screamin’ Eagle exhaust mesh gaskets (recommended by D&D), and a set of stock tapered units. When the D&D system arrived, carefully wrapped and secure, we discovered some fasteners and a set of slightly larger exhaust mesh gaskets. We decided to roll with the D&D supplied units. JIMS makes the perfect tool for installing these Brillo pad bastards. We used a medical hook to pull the old ones out.
I like this system because it stays tight to the rubber-mounted engine, which is critical to the longevity of the unit. This Dyna Bobcat system is good for any Dyna from ’06 to ’11.
It comes with the following hardware and gaskets:
1- 3/8-16 Flange Nut
1- Alum Spacer
2- Boss Exhaust Gaskets?
Exhaust system Bracket
Installation (the following is a mixture of D&D instructions and our comments)
3.Remove factory exhaust system (Retain stock O2 sensors). We found access to the O2 sensors difficult, so we removed the pipe. While one person held the pipes, James loosened and removed the sensors. It’s also a good idea to unplug the sensor connection first. Then you can actually set the pipes on the bench before removing the sensors. Keep in mind that the sensors are delicate electronic devices. You don’t want to touch them or tarnish them with any lubricants or even anti-seize.
4.Remove factory exhaust hanger. In some cases there is a mounting bracket under the cone of the engine. That can be removed and discarded.
5.Open package and visually inspect. (No warranty for cosmetics after system has been installed). At this point we removed the O2 plugs protecting the 18mm threads in the bungs. We discovered a slightly damaged thread and ran an 18 mm tap into the threads for a perfect clean fit.
6.Install new exhaust bracket. Two bottom holes utilize stock hardware. Top left hole uses stock bolt and supplied aluminum spacer. Torque all fasteners to factory specifications.
7.Install supplied exhaust gaskets. This is where the JIMS tool comes in very handy. You don’t want to mess with these bastards. We called Eric Bennett for any tips. He just recommended cleaning the head surface and being very careful.
9.Install muffler onto the header and loosely attach to bracket with supplied flange nut. This is critical. If you install the head pipes first without the muffler, the muffler won’t roll into place. So install the muffler first, and then the system into the heads and start the 5/16 fine flange nuts.
“Roll the system over the mid controls,” said Jeremiah. “It’s tight but fits perfectly. And make sure to square the exhaust flanges with the heads. I use the stud threads as a measurement, trying to keep the number of threads equal on each stud for a square flange fit to the gasket.”
There is always a temptation to replace the old rusting flange nuts with something new, and that’s cool, but the flange nuts act as a tool in socket to align and start the threading process. I would like to find some stainless/locking flange nuts, maybe through McMaster Carr for future installations.
15.Start motorcycle and check for leaks.
Care of your D&D Exhaust System
Black systems can be repainted using Krylon brand 1200-degree high temp flat black spray paint.
Show & Go Chrome systems can be polished using any quality chrome polish such as Mother’s Mag Polish. Rust, rock dings, and pits can be polished out.
Ceramic Coated systems can be polished using Mother’s Mag Polish or similar products to remove rust, rock dings, and pits. Ceramic coating is not warrantied against rust (surface oxidation) if the part is not kept clean. Most oxidation is only on the surface of the coating and will polish off, while leaving the coating intact. If the salt or road film is left on the pipe long enough it will violate the coating and ruin it.
Aluminum mufflers can be polished on a cloth buffing wheel using jeweler’s rouge.
Carbon Fiber may discolor with age from UV light. The outer dye layer may be renewed with the application of a high quality silicone.
A fuel system management system is required for use with this 2-1 system. We are looking into the various product from Power Commanders to Zipper’s and Daytona Twin Tech.
