Dynas are the shit around LA and Southern California. We’re the home of the Sons of Anarchy don’t ya know. If there were more FXRs available it would a toss up. If the factory would be open to it, slip the new M-8 into an FXR frame and we would be dancing in the streets again.
Recently another performance upgrade has surfaced for Dynas. Local guys are removing rear drive belts and installing chains. The first benefit of chains is the ability to run wider tires without stress and hassle.
There’s another issue surfacing around the industry. Rear belt pulleys are coming loose. We talked to one industry mechanic who told us he tightens his pulley bolts every night after he rides. I had them come loose on my FXR and recently my grandson lost power in the fast lane on a busy LA freeway at 11:00 at night. That was scary.
There are now a couple of devices on the market to prevent pulley bolts from coming loose and one from Hugh’s Hand Built Motorcycles was featured is a recent issue of Cycle Source Magazine. If you use their system you can’t use Allens to hold your pulley in place, although you can safety wire the Allens, but there are issues with safety wire and it’s time consuming.
James chose an aftermarket dished sprocket, a 530 Bike Master O-ring, already lubed chain from J&P and he grabbed a PBI 24-tooth trans sprocket from Steven Edger at Speed Kings online shop. JIMS also distributes tranny sprockets and I believe they are also PBI units.
Just to be safe, the Tileman ordered a primary gasket kit from James Gaskets and didn’t miss a beat. We went to work on his bike before the other brothers were even awake. This modification involves removing the outer and inner primaries, including the clutch, primary chain and compensating sprocket before replacing the transmission belt pulley with the offset PBI 24-tooth sprocket.
Up on the lift James drained his primary fluid by removing the plug. He inspected the plug magnet for excessive metal filings and then removed the primary. Don’t forget to replace the drain plug.
I reminded him to disconnect the Battery before messing with the starter motor and the Jack Shaft bolt and Pinion gear.
Before he took off the chain adjuster, he needed to loosen the compensating sprocket nut (regular threads). We used my shitty air compressor impact, which doesn’t have the needed impact. We needed a long arm wrench and a piece of pipe. We jammed a chunk of Teflon into the chain (JIMS makes a tool), put it in gear and held the brake to get that puppy loose.
Then the impact worked on the Transmission hub nut with left-handed threads. He undid the chain adjuster and all the pieces slipped off their respective shafts.
With a small metal flat punch and small ballpeen hammer James removed the tabs locking the inner primary bolts into place. There are five inside, and they are all the same length. There are two shorter once on the front outside.
We used several JIMS tools including this socket to remove and install the massive pulley nut, after we removed the locking plate. James ordered a .750 offset sprocket. He picked the brains of all the folks he could while ordering parts and still discovered issues.
It’s tough, and it’s tough for customer service at J&P or other outlets to know all the configurations with the various tire sizes. He tightened the Transmission sprocket nut to 50 lbs. of torque. The manual calls for tightening the nut 30-40 more degrees to get the locking plate in place. The screws can be tightened to 84-108 inch pounds.
In this case his wheel sprocket didn’t line up with the tranny sprocket with the suggested 3/8-inch thick sprocket spacer. I dug into my wheel locker and found a ¼-inch sprocket spacer that did the trick. It can be spendy, but it never hurts to buy options, spacer kits or varieties, so you have additional options.
At this point James cleaned his inner primary and started to put it back together. He cleaned the fasteners and sprayed brake clean in the fastener holes to remove any oil or debris. He used blue Loctite and the locking washer-tabs to replace each bolt. Fresh ones came with the James kit, along with seals and stuff we couldn’t figure out.
The Tileman made a cardboard template of the outer primary fasteners positions so he used the same fastener in the same hole each time.
He replaced all the locking tabs, torqued the fasteners to 17-21 foot-pounds, bent the taps and started to replace the clutch, primary chain and compensating sprocket. He also used red Loctite on the clutch hub left handed nut after cleaning any oil out of the nut or shaft threads and torqued it to 70-80 foot pounds. He adjusted the primary chain to have between 3/8-inch and 5/8-inch of travel. I make that loose travel, not forced travel.
He tightened the compensating sprocket nut/bolt to 150-165 foot-pounds of torque. We didn’t check chain alignment because we didn’t change in components (except clutch plates) inside the primary.
We were now at the stage to replace the stock clutch with the new Barnett clutch pack with an extra plate.
Barnett Extra Plate Clutch Kits-
Evo Sportsters- Evo/Twin Cam Big Twins- V-Rod
Barnett ‘extra plate’ clutch kits feature proven Carbon or Kevlar ‘segmented’ friction plates, tempered steel drive plates, and an increase in clutch surface area by 11%-28% (depending on kit/application). V-Rod ‘EP’ kits also include heavy-duty clutch springs. The ‘segmented’ friction material design increases oil flow through the clutch and provides a smoother, more consistent performance and extended clutch life.
The ‘EP’ kits are ideal for modified motors and high performance riding applications. All clutch kits are measured for proper stack height prior to packaging to ensure optimal performance.
(To order, please contact your dealer today. Made in the U.S.A. since 1948. Pricing varies by model.)
1. All kits contain everything needed to convert to an ‘Extra-Plate.’
Note: We recommend using only motorcycle-specific oils that meet the clutch (JASO-MA, JASO-MA1 or JASO-MA2 (no friction modifiers). These oils meet the special needs of motorcycles. Follow your service manual for viscosity. Never use automotive oils. They do not meet specific and special requirements of motorcycle engines, clutches and transmissions.
ATF? Automatic transmission fluids can be used in motorcycles designed with a separate oil supply to the clutch assembly. Type
F will give you a harsher, more positive clutch engagement. GM (Dexron) will give you a smoother, more linear engagement.
Harley Davidson Note: We have had numerous reports of Formula Plus oil causing clutch plate “sticking” in cold starts, especially in cable from lever handle in cold weather zones.
Wet Clutch Tips: Soak friction plates 1-3 minutes, wipe dry with a lint-free cloth and install per service manual.
2. Remove ALL existing Plates, Damper Seat & Spring or Spring Plate. Do NOT re-use any parts!
3. When installing new plates, be sure that all components fit in the clutch basket smoothly and with no binding. Check Basket, Hub
and Pressure Plate for wear/grooving, stress cracks and replace as needed.
4. New Plate installation: Start with a Friction Plate, alternate steels and frictions. Last Plate in is a Friction Plate.
5. Follow Factory Service Manual for Removing and Re-installing Pressure Plate, Clutch Spring, etc.
We installed the Barnett heavier, more pressure diaphragm spring, but the Tileman cut his levers back for the cool factor, which cut his lever leverage, and it made pulling in the clutch a problem. We shifted back to the standard Barnett diaphragm spring.
HARLEY-DAVIDSON EXTRA-PLATE CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT
TIPS, 1990& LATER, CABLE MODELS ONLY
1. Close mid-adjuster on clutch cable completely or disconnect.
2. Loosen clutch adjuster lock nut on pressure plate.
3. Turn pushrod adjuster screw in firmly to assure ball/ramp is in complete off position.
To insure the best possible clutch life, always inspect the entire clutch assembly and
pushrod. Replace worn or damaged components. Keep clean oil in the
engine, tranny and/or primary.
4. Back screw out a few turns, screw back in until screw touches
5. Back screw out 1/2 turn and tighten lock-nut. This will assure that
You will get maximum release of pressure plate.
6. With clutch cable properly installed, adjust free play in cable to1/8-inch between lever handle and bracket.
NOTE: Use of any ‘Easy-Pull’ device to decrease lever pull will reduce the movement of the pressure plate and can result in
clutch drag, hard neutral, and rough shifting.
HYDRAULIC MODELS
Hydraulic controls are self-adjusting. Be sure hydraulic system is operating properly. Use approved fluid and make sure the system is properly bled and functioning correctly.
James torqued all his fasteners using a torque wrench and factory recommendations. Some guys live by a torque wrench, but be careful that you don’t get distracted, miss the click and over torque anything. I’ve done it.
INTRO TO TORQUE
Threaded fasteners (nuts and bolts) are used to hold many components to the bike. As a fastener is tightened, the fastener actually flexes and stretches, much like a rubber band. This stretching is not permanent, but it gives the joint force to hold together, called “preload,” or tension. Each fastener is designed for a certain range of tension. Too much tightening will deform the threads or the parts. Too little preload will mean the fastener will loosen with use. This can damage components, such as a crank ridden with a loose mounting bolt. Loose bolts and nuts are also generally the source of various creaking on the bike.
Tension in the fastener depends largely upon the amount of torque (tightening) and the size of the thread. Generally, engineers will specify a thread size large enough to handle the anticipated stresses. For example, the M5 bolt of a water bottle cage bolt would not be a good choice for holding a crank. Even if the bolt were as tight as possible, it would not provide enough force to hold the arm secure to the spindle. The crank-to-spindle interface receives quite a lot of stress, making larger threads (M8, M12, M14) a better choice. The amount of pressure applied by a thread can be substantial in order to hold the joint secure. For example, a fully tightened crank bolt can provide over 14,000 Newton force (3,000 pounds) as it holds the arm in place.
It is commonly believed that bolts and nuts often come loose for no apparent reason. However, the common cause for threaded fasteners loosening is simply lack of tension during initial assembly. Vibration, stress, use, or abuse cannot typically overcome the amount of clamping force in a properly sized and secured threaded fastener. As a simple rule of thumb, any fastener should be tightened as tight as possible without failure of the thread or the component parts. This means the weakest part of the joint determines the limits of tension, and hence, torque.
More on the Torque Specifications
Without having the proper torque specifications, assembling an engine, or any threaded fastener as far as that goes, is just asking for failure. This is especially true on today’s lightweight engines that use mostly aluminum castings.
Most people do not realize that a bolt or a stud acts like a big spring to hold parts together. It has to be stretched a certain amount in order to do its job. Even though there are tools to measure bolt stretch, most people do not own them and really do not need them. But almost anyone who does mechanical work will have a torque wrench.
Manufacturers determine the amount of torque that is needed to stretch a bolt or stud the correct amount and they include that torque specification in their service documentation.
It is important to note that most engine torque specs require 30w engine oil to get the correct stretch on the bolt. Some specialty fasteners require a specific lubricant. It is important to know which lube, if any, the bolt requires and to use it when tightening it.
A torque wrench really only senses friction. For example, take a bolt with a torque specification of 50 foot-pounds. If you were to tighten it with no lubrication at all and mark it so that you know where it stopped turning, then loosen the bolt and apply some engine oil to the threads and under the head of the bolt, when you torque it again to 50 foot pounds, it will most certainly turn considerably further, which means it has stretched more. This is why it is so important to know what, if any, lubricant the manufacturer specifies for each fastener.
It is also important to pull on the torque wrench slowly and evenly without any type of jerking motions.
This method of tightening fasteners in engines is relatively new. The reason for it is to get a more consistent stretch in the bolts. Since a torque wrench senses friction, there are a lot of variables that can affect proper tightening, especially as the torque spec increases.
By only using the torque wrench for a small initial torque to seat the bolt, and then turning the bolt a certain number of degrees of rotation, the manufacturer can be pretty sure that the correct stretch will apply to the bolt. An example would be to tighten the bolt to 20 foot-pounds and then turn it an additional 90 degrees (1/4 turn) There are torque angle tools available that will work with a standard ratchet and enable you to accurately measure the number of degrees you are turning the bolt. Fel Pro makes a very inexpensive plastic version that is great for the home mechanic.
At this point we loosened the five pulley bolts and then jacked up the bike to remove the rear wheel. James also removed the chain guard, which I squawked about. Chain guards are not a major issue with a belt, but they are with a chain. If a belt breaks, which is very rare, it’s unlikely to cause serious damage to riders or the machine. On the other hand, chain damage can be brutal.
So we added the sprocket and about a 3/8 spacer, which turned out to be too much. We checked alignment with a straight edge and determined we needed a thinner spacer. Fortunately, I had one in my wheel locker ¼-inch thick and we were good to go. Again, we used blue Loctite and factory torque specifications to tighten it up.
We recently across a serious issues with pulleys coming loose. I don’t know if it’s the same with chain sprockets, but it would seem likely because of the additional chain vibration.
We set the wheel in the center of its wheel adjustment area and proceeded to measure the chain. James installed a 24-tooth trans sprocket and a 48-tooth wheel sprocket for an overdrive effect. These are all considerations when breaking the chain. I used a JIMS chain breaker to break the chain and we installed a master-link over a rivet link.
After a couple of weeks riding with this chain configuration he decided to change the rear sprocket to stock 51 tooth. Hopefully, we will move the wheel forward and the chain will work. We will see in the next week or so. His 51-tooth sprocket is on back-order.
We didn’t reinstall his chain guard, but a week later he came back and got it—good man. I asked him to take his bike for a ride around the block before peeling out. He looked at me like he had a hot babe waiting for him in a Manhattan Beach Bar, but he gave in and rode around the block.
He quickly discovered his shifter peg was in the wrong position and had to relocate it quick, before he could peel across town. Also, two of his James Gaskets leaked and he replaced them with his used H-D stock gaskets. I’ve discovered a serious issue with dealerships. The pricing on their products forces guys to go to the aftermarket for similar products at 1/3 the cost. They might look into their pricing.
Below we’ve listed info about the Zipper’s Chain kit. Check it out. 
And one more thing: We relied on the Custom Cycle Engineering guide to rear wheel alignment. This doesn’t cost a dime. We had lots of welding rod laying around and we needed an 11-inch piece.
Here’s the drill: Grind one end down to a sharp point. With pliers bend the rod at the other end to 90 degrees to give you a 1.25-inch leg. Place a snug O-ring on the rod to act as a slide indicator.
With the point of the alignment too inserted in the rear fork pilot hole slide the O-ring along the tool until it is aligned with the center of the axle . Make sure both sides of the axle are the same. Check with Custom Cycle Engineering for their complete Dyna or FXR alignment guide.
Sources:
J&P
James Gaskets
Custom Cycle Engineering
Zipper’s Performance Products
6655-A Amberton Drive, Elkridge, MD
Phone: (410) 579-2828 Fax: (410) 579-2835
www.ZippersPerformance.com
Zippers@ZippersPerformance.com
Zipper’s cushion-drive chain conversion kit for 2009-up Touring models is for
high output engines, with a modular design for strength and easy ratio changes.
This kit is supplied with a steel front sprocket, a 7075-T6 aerospace aluminum, rear sprocket and O-ring chain (available in standard metallic, gold, or black).
Our cushion-drive chain conversion kit includes a chrome-moly axle and
severe-duty slider-style chain adjusters (also available separately), eliminating
the cam adjusters.
Conveniently, this system bolts-on and does not require modifications to the swing-arm.
Cushion-Drive Chain Conversion Kit
for 2009-up Touring Models
#817-879 Axle & Adjusters Kit for 2009-up Touring Models
PART NO. AXLE & ADJUSTERS ONLY (AVAILABLE SEPARATELY)
Zipper’s Chain Conversion Kits
Touring ‘09-Up
TOURING APPLICATION
O-RING CHAIN
#817-707 #817-707S
ALUMINUM
REAR SPROCKET
STEEL REAR
Chain Conversion Kits for Big Twins
We’ve taken the hassle of converting your late model belt driven H-D® to chain drive. Whether you’re interested in a different final drive ratio, added driveline strength or more clearance for a wider tire, these kits will make your life easier. Kits are available with durable, high wearing RK Pro O-Ring chains (best for street use) or RK’s brutally strong, non-o-ring DR (Drag Race) chain.
Simply identify your motorcycle type and year group, what style of chain you wish to run, and what sprockets you’ve chosen and we’ll supply you with everything you’ll need for the conversion. Contact us to recommend what fi nal drive ratio will work best for you, or choose your own (note: extremely small or large sprockets may require swing arm or frame modifications for clearance).
120 link chains are supplied, which must be shortened to fit.
BIG TWIN 5 SPEED (‘85-’99): Choose between 21-24 teeth on the transmission sprocket; on the rear 46-65
(aluminum), 46-49 & 51 (chrome steel) and 49 & 51 (zinc steel). Suggested ranges: 23/24 front, 48-52 rear.
Sizes outside of these ranges may require modifications for proper clearance.
Street O-Ring Kits – Front sprockets are steel, rear are made from your choice of lightweight, extremely tough 7075-T6 aircraft quality aluminum, or steel in silver zinc or chrome finish (‘85-’99,’07-’08) or translucent black carbon steel (‘00-’06).
New! Optional chain finishes! We now offer our O-Ring Street Chains in standard metallic finish or with the link plates finished in black or gold (additional cost) for a true finishing touch. Please select the desired finish when ordering.
