The more I study shocks, the less I know. I find the entire notion of ride control daunting. For instance, if you weigh 200 pounds and you design the perfect shock to handle running over a 2-by-4 at 30 mph, will it work at 50 mph, and what if you gain weight?
I had a recent discussion with some riders, and a shock manufacturer in Cincinnati at the V-Twin Expo. The quality of stock shocks is dismal. Most of us would never mess with our shocks unless we wanted to lower or raise a bike. Yet some factory bike shocks wear out in less than a year of average riding.
So, what the hell does it mean? After discussing this with Jeremiah Soto, and his brother James, and then Sean at Progressive suspension a much clearer performance picture emerged. And maybe this issue has been at the center of my Mudflap Girl FXR trials.
First, there is a lot more to suspension issues than ride comfort. Handling, especially with rubber-mounted and touring models, is critically linked to suspension. For instance, if a new rider buys a bike and it handles so-so in the beginning and gets progressively worse, how will these elements factor into his riding experience? Maybe he’ll quit riding altogether, or worse, maybe he will find himself in a dangerous situation or an accident.
Both James and Jeremiah told stories of how their bikes handled initially and how they immensely improved with enhanced suspension components, mostly from Progressive Suspension. Both of these riders switched out their front ends with Progressive springs and preload systems. Then they replaced their rear shocks, in most cases with Progressive shocks.
I’ll reiterate the issue I faced at the V-Twin show. I was told by a shock manufacturer, Geoff of Ikon shocks in Australia, about the substandard shocks on many new bikes from the manufacturer, which only last maybe five months before they start to fail.
“It’s all about the rider taking an active role in his motorcycle handling package. He needs to understand how he wants to ride and how it impacts suspension. He needs to know his size and weight, whether he plans to pack a partner, and lots of luggage, etc.”
Suddenly, suspension became a much more critical issue. Then recently after a 5-Ball Racing™Apparel photo shoot, I noticed how close my rear tire rode to my fender. I had next to no shock travel. I lowered the bike for that cool look, but destroyed handling and put the drive chain dangerously close to my oil bag.
By just adding one inch to my shock height, I doubled my travel, relieved the stress on my oil bag and improved handling seriously. I started to work with Progressive Suspension’s David Zemla. I couldn’t just add longer springs to my existing shock, which would have been a dream, but not a possibility.
Since the master builder at Paul Cavallo, Spitfire Motorcycles, extended my swingarm by an inch for my lanky form, it changed the shock dynamics and we had to run much stronger springs. Fortunately, David was willing to work with us on a custom set of shocks.
Replacing shocks can be simple, but it takes planning and is much more critical than you think. I will bounce between my notions and the Progressive Suspension instructions, and see if I miss anything. These shocks are designed to operate with the shock shaft up. Damage to the shocks may occur if fitted with shock shaft in the down position. I got that one right, amazing.
Progressive supplies a number of bushings and sleeves. I positioned the shocks several times to ensure they were perpendicular to the deck and would not touch the upper frame rails.
I needed to check shock travel, since in the past I was forced to run travel limiters to prevent the fender from smacking the tire. Progressive has travel limiter kits available.
I used a JIMS tool to remove the shock cap and spring, then installed the shock and lowered the bike until the shock bumper contacted the shock body. In this case, I had almost ¾ of an inch of clearance, so I was good to go.
Progressive recommends not using lowering blocks, and the bike must be on a centerstand or a jack before messing with the shocks. They also advised making sure proper bushings/sleeves are installed in the shocks. That generally applies to custom applications over using stock shock shaft studs, over bolts. Progressive supplies a set of various sleeves and spacers for fitment ease.
Here’s how they explained the tire/fender clearance adjustment: Before installing your new Progressive shocks, you need to check the tire-to-fender clearance, making sure that the tire does not come in contact with the fender. If the rear fender or tire has been changed to anything other than stock, a travel limiter may be required.
On some models with side bags or luggage, removal of the top cover may be required to eliminate any interference. Due to clearance on some belt drive models, it is necessary to check clearances around the lower chrome cover (chrome series shocks only.) Install shock assemblies onto the motorcycle and tighten mounting bolts/to proper torque. Offset lower eye may be rotated in or out to gain clearance for the lower cover; if this does not work, removal of the lower cover my be necessary.
They suggest a test ride next and if excessive bottoming occurs, to adjust the shock preload cam to the next setting and test ride it again.
To adjust the spring preload, use the wrench supplied. Grab the cover and engage the wrench. Also supplied is a packet of cam lube to ease adjustment. It can be used to lube the preload cam to ease adjustment. Just apply it to the sliding surface. Generally, the shocks come set on the lowest setting.
There you have it. You may now pay more attention to your handling and suspension. There are solutions from several companies and you can improve your ride, or make it fit your needs and maybe save you life in the process. I’ve been dancing with the devil by the pale moonlight too long. Plus the El Diablo Run is calling me.
