As we ride the Earth looking for the next great, undiscovered biking destination, it somehow occurred to us to think outside the yellow lines, way out. Comic Con International, a gargantuan gathering of the TV, film and print sci-fi industry and its following herds of super hero and horror fanatics, was rumored to be a lot like Halloween on meth. So we saddled up and rode out to San Diego, the jewel of southern California and Comic Con headquarters.
Teeming masses of wannabe do-gooders, vile villains, merciless monsters and other dark denizens of graphic novel and twisted imagination were drawn to the historic Gaslamp Quarter like zombies to free government brains. For four freakish days, downtown was transformed into a celebration of all things out of this world, the scary best our country’s finest geek-minds could devise.
She’s Hot, But She’s Not Infected
The event could not be contained by the San Diego Convention Center, spilling out to the street, washing costumed characters and caped crusaders over every avenue and alley. A Super Hero Pub Crawl, complete with secret locations, and a massive Zombie Walk, where hundreds of weirdoes marched in full makeup and red corn syrup through the city, turned this mild metropolis into a wretched city of nerds gone wild and unreal but still smelly undead. Some women’s costumes were so “pre-decayed,” as one zombie put it, shredded to near nudity, that being a member of the walking, mumbling, flesh eating dead didn’t seem so bad, once you got past the boring diet.
Anticipating this tidal wave of make-believe made us wonder out loud, “What kind of bike would you bring to a super hero rally? The action blockbuster, Captain America: The First Avenger, was scheduled for its U.S. debut just as Comic Con was reaching a fevered pitch. Wouldn’t it be cool to get on the 1942 WLA Liberator replica Harley-Davidson made for the movie?
The original was a 750cc V-Twin made to military spec and used mostly for messenger duty. Not exactly the boulevard blaster a super hero might straddle to spread his secret powers in the name of America, mom and apple pie.
Our clandestine operatives tell us the film bike is based on a heavily modified Cross Bones, bringing modern performance cloaked in retro skins to a new level, even for the reigning king of nostalgia cycles. Perhaps the Motor Company should consider some special, limited edition reproductions of their more historic bikes. Every do-gooder and big meanie will want one.
The Harley High Command
After several days of negotiation with Harley’s high command to secure a Captain American olive drab Liberator, with gun scabbard (we supply the gun), none were street ready. But all was not lost. H-D loaned us a 2011 Road Glide Custom to complete our mission.
Flying the color of Superman’s cape, we rumbled around downtown and coastal communities on the lookout for damsels in un-dress. Although we witnessed many specimens in latex from outer space, or wearing high heels, lipstick and little else, none, sadly, needed our capable assistance.
The San Diego experience kicked off with Opening Day at nearby Del Mar Racetrack. Like Derby Day at Churchill Downs except hotter, southern California’s sexiest women don their most revealing finery and fanciest hats and trot themselves out to Del Mar to win the day.
The pre-track party starts at the Brigantine Restaurant, which overlooks the racecourse. Like peacocks on parade, the Del Mar dance begins early, accompanied by bathtubs of socially lubricating beverages.
Low Income Millionaires
The seaside city of Del Mar is about 20 miles north of downtown San Diego. The track’s proximity to the beach gave rise to its tagline, “Where the turf meets the surf.” Financed by entertainment icons Bing Crosby, Pat O’Brien, Jimmy Durante and Oliver Hardy, Del Mar opened in 1937 and quickly became a playground for Hollywood elite and horsemen of every ilk, including iron jockeys.
While those stars have faded, Del Mar still retains a glamorous charm. On Opening Day, it’s a strutting, posing showcase for SoCal’s beautiful people, the stinking rich, old money, no money, wannabe rich, and the unhappy LIMs (Low Income Millionaires), the unfortunate group of once-rich people who struggle to keep up appearances and would sell their mother’s soul for a pre-owned Mercedes SL.
The cape-red Road Glide Custom handled its pro-temp super hero duties with aplomb, galloping about town, its fairing puffed out like Superman’s chest and supplying enough storage space for all the garlic, wooden stakes, silver bullets and anti-zombie juice we would ever need for an unnatural invasion.
Comic Con reconvenes July 12-15. For more information, visit http://www.comic-con.org/cci/cci_reg_2012.php; Del Mar Opening Day 2012 is unofficially scheduled for the third Wednesday in July; visit http://www.dmtc.com/
Accommodations
The 1906 Lodge
It was an entirely new paradigm for me. I have never before wanted to stay in a room more than to sober up and shower. But now, I may be forever ruined for future lodgings. Seventeen unique, gorgeously appointed rooms and suites make this a new, sparkling jewel in what is considered the “Crown City,” Coronado, CA.
Located within walking distance to famed beaches, seaside boutiques and contemporary cafes, the property is certainly not limited to, but especially befitting the biker that appreciates the pristine and shiny. Our Scarlet Red Harley seemed to be right at home, as did we. Only in-suite Coronado memorabilia (scoured from eBay treasure troves) hint at the 1906’s long history.
We could see the turret of the historic Hotel del Coronado from our veranda, and couldn’t help but gloat a little from the vantage point of our cozy lap of luxury. The property is racking up high praise on travel review sites, and deservedly so. I adored every aspect: the staff, gourmet breakfasts, daily wine and cheese in the parlor, spa-ahhh tubs, and bikers will lick their chops over this—a state-of-the-art, secured, underground garage. Now that’s the lush life.
www.1906lodge.com
1060 Adella Ave.
Coronado, CA 92118
866/435.1906
El Cordova Hotel
Swashbuckling, anyone? It’s easy to imagine rollicking swordsmen being in their element here. Traditional Spanish stucco archways, awnings and shutters, red tile roof, and bougainvillea petals floating lazily onto the Spanish tiles. Guests are quickly transported into their own Roman Holiday as they present your keys, and I’m not talking about those tacky plastic key cards.
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Are you the type who has some special ride tucked in your garage? You know, a little retro, sporting mileage and the patina of a lovingly maintained machine. These accommodations are like that, clean and classic.
This 40-room inn, built in 1902 as a private residence, features a courtyard-enclosed heated pool, whirlpool, and barbeque area. In-suite kitchenettes are provided in the charming accommodations. Modern amenities, such as the flat screen TVs bring the hacienda up to speed. Thumbs up for my priorities—a really comfortable night’s sleep and a blessedly scaturient shower.
The friendly and efficient staff and excellent location make this boutique hotel a favorite. It’s in the heart of the village, just a short walk to one of the best beaches in America, the historic Hotel del Coronado, and main thoroughfare, Orange Avenue. On property, there are 12 shops and three restaurants.
Ask about the parking options when you reserve a room. Catch a smooth ride down the “Silver Strand” heading to Imperial Beach, otherwise throttle it over the bridge toward downtown San Diego.
www.elcordovahotel.com
1351Orange Ave.
Coronado, CA 92118
619/435.4131
The Italian B&B
San Diego’s Little Italy is a frenetic hub of transportation. By sky, land and sea the conveyances never cease coming and going. For an up-close eyeful of a Boeing 747, for example, just stand on the corner of Kettner Boulevard outside the Harley dealership. Every few minutes, jetliners fly in so low you can see the smile on the pilot’s face. Vespas zip by, trolleys clang and motorcycles rumble down Little Italy’s main drag, India Street.
We packed our earplugs and good humor, and nestled in at the Italian B&B. Restored and reopened in 2010, this four-room inn is located in the heart of Little Italy and just up the hill from the waterfront and near downtown San Diego.
Attracting an international clientele, a Danish couple, two Norwegian youths in for Comic Con, NoCal honeymooners, and our raggedy selves chatted over yet another incredible breakfast. The fun innkeeper, Mary Trimmins, has a formal culinary background, and often shares the kitchen with Gayle, her extern from the San Diego Culinary Institute. My spousal equivalent now looks bewildered in the mornings. Where is the fantastic B&B mystery breakfast to which his taste buds had become accustomed?
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The Italian city referenced suites are lovingly appointed, and vary in spaciousness and configuration. Choose your accommodations with your comfort level in mind. Parking on the street is likely, the B&B’s driveway iffy.
www.theitalianbb.com
2054 Columbia St.
San Diego, CA 92101
—By Stasia
