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The grab rail is then CAREFULLY slid over the fender (using wax paper or some other type of paper thin matieral) to keepthe rail again from scraping the paint.
Here’s the wheel, as it is readied to be put into position. This wheel setup is a 5.5″ wide rim, with a 180 tire.You are looking at the last set of billet rims out of Joker Machine. They stopped making these last year because ofdifficulty obtaining blank wheels for milling. I’m lucky to have them. The spacer on the pulley side of the wheel isfrom Atlas – it came with the frame and insures the rear wheel will sit in the middle, where it should, and that the beltwill clear the tire and fender.
A quick note about the wheel bearing setup. I’ll admit – I didn’t pack the bearings. Since I didn’t have the properequipment to mount the tire without beating the shit out my billet rims, I had a local shop mount the rubber and packthe bearings while I was at it. They also checked the end play, and made any corrections to the placement of the races insidethe rims. First rule of bike building…. if you don’t have the right tools, don’t fuck with it.
This photo shows the lower portion of the fender, and how it is mounted onto the lower fender brace.Also, the rear brake is of late model Softail type, and sits over the axel, and is held rotationally by a tab mountedon the right side of the frame.
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