Here’s the latest hot shoe upgradefor Twin Cams from S&S. This tech included four element groups beginningwith the S&S Big Bore Kit, an updated Hybrid billet cam plate and enhancedHigh Flow oil pump from Harley-Davidson, an S&S Super E carb, and a set ofBub exhaust pipes. We could have wrapped up this operation and rolled to happyhour in a day, but we decided to add a final fuel and air delivery upgrade tothe mix and have Bandit’s son, Frank’s 2002 Dyna heads ported by the BranchO’Keefe master, John O’Keefe.
That’s not all. We installed a setof mid range S&S Standard and Easy Start 583 chain drive camshafts and aset of S&S Quickee adjustable pushrods, tappets, and travel limiters.
We ran through this entire operationat Bennett’s Performance in Long Beach, with Eric Bennett as our mastermechanic and guru. We will cover this operation, as if you were going toscramble into this performance procedure at home, but it’s best to have anexperienced tech, with the proper machinery and specialized JIMS tools handy.Besides any process such as this one wails along much quicker with experiencedhands behind the tools.
We reached out to S&S for theirhighly detailed instruction booklet, plus we checked in with Steve Bohn andpeeked at his H-D cam plate article for reference. It’s best to reach out tothe experts. Here’s the S&S guidelines with our comments:
SAFE INSTALLATION AND OPERATION RULES:
Before installing your new S&S part it is yourresponsibility to read and follow the installation and maintenance proceduresin these instructions and follow the basic rules below for your personalsafety. Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions and toxic when breathed. Do not smoke. Perform installation in a well ventilated area away fromopen flames or sparks. Ifmotorcycle has been running, wait until engine and exhaust pipes have cooleddown to avoid getting burned before performing any installation steps.
Before performing any installation steps disconnect batteryto eliminate potential sparks and inadvertent engagement of starter whileworking on electrical components. Read instructions thoroughly and carefully soall procedures are completely understood before performing any installationsteps. Contact S&S with anyquestions you may have if any steps are unclear or any abnormalities occurduring installation or operation of motorcycle with a S&S part on it.
Consult an appropriate service manual for your motorcyclefor correct disassembly and reassemblyprocedures for any parts that need to be removed to facilitate installation.
Use good judgment when performing installation and operatingmotorcycle. Good judgment beginswith a clear head. Don’t letalcohol, drugs or fatigue impair your judgment. Start installation when you are fresh. If that’s possible.
Run motorcycle in a well ventilated area where fumes candissipate.
KIT CONTENTS
(2) 3.927” pistons (front and rear pistons are the same)
(2) 0.927” piston pins
(4) Piston pin clips
(2) Ring packs which include the top, second, oil rail, andexpander rings
(2) Cylinders
(2) MLS (Multi Layer Steel) head gaskets
(2) Cylinder base O-rings
(2) Cylinder base dowel O-rings
(2) Exhaust gaskets
SPECIAL TOOL REQUIREMENTS
• Harley-Davidson service manual for the specific model youare working on
• Piston C-clip installer
• Piston ring compressor
• Piston ring expander
• Piston ring end gap filing tool
• Digital or dial calipers
• Feeler gauge
GENERAL INFORMATION
The 3.927” bore pistons with 1.090” deck height andcylinders are intended for stock stroke (4.375”) 2007-up big twin and 1999-2006big twin engines with 4.375”stroke flywheels. This combination yields a displacement of 106”. The 3.927”bore pistons with 1.270” deck height and cylinders are intended for stockstroke (4.000”) 1999-’06 big twin engines. This combination yields adisplacement of 97”. Pistons are the same for the front and rear cylinders andcan be used with either cylinder.
The 3.927” piston is marked with an arrow that should pointto the front of the engine when installed. The pistondiameter is measured at the factory before the piston skirt coating is applied;this diameter is used for the final cylinder hone by S&S Cycle.
Do not attempt to re-hone the cylinder based on pistondiameter measurements taken with the piston skirt coating applied. This will lead to an incorrect pistonto bore clearance. In all cases it is the engine builder’s responsibility toconfirm proper clearances when assembling an engine. This is especially critical with performance components suchas larger valve, high performance heads and high lift camshafts.
In addition to clearances mentioned, 0.060” valve to pistonclearance must be confirmed.
DISASSEMBLY
Refer to the Harley-Davidson manual for your specificmotorcycle for the correct disassembly procedure.
The engine should be disassembled to the short block i.e.induction system, exhaust system, cylinder heads, cylinders, and pistons shouldbe removed.
First, and foremost Eric disconnected Frank’s battery, thenthe fuel lines. He removed the lifter boxes, unbolted the heads and took theboth heads and intake system off in one chunk.
Then he pulled the cylinders, “I’m curious if we couldjust bore the stock cylinders,” Eric said, “and add the largerpistons.” He popped the stock pistons off the rods and check the rods forwear. This S&S system comes with pre-bored barrels, in case you don’t haveboring capabilities.
S&S doesn’t feel secure with the stock cast iron barrelsleeve configuration. They bore the cylinders to almost 4 inches (.397) and thespigot on stock cylinders gets damn thin. The material used in S&S linersis alloy engineering grade cast iron and is a lot stronger.
“We don’t recommend boring stock cylinders thisbig,” said Bruce Tessmer from S&S. “The fact that the boltpattern and spigot diameter are stock means that a mechanic won’t need to chargefor case boring to install a big bore kit. That makes this installation a lotless expensive.”
Eric cleaned the cam case and removed the 2002 stock cambearings using a JIMS special tool plate to keep the bearing extraction andinstallation in perfect alignment.
Note: For cam S&S lifts over .510-inch S&S stronglyrecommends upgrading to an S&S gear drive or the H-D part number 25284-08 Hybrid cam plate and highflow oil pump kit. This kit upgrades the problematic spring loaded chaintensioners to reliable hydraulic tensioners, and upgrade the oil pump.
Here’s how Stevedescribed the new cam plate and oil pump upgrade: In 2007 H-D engineers came up with a higher volume oil pump,capable of providing 8-percent more volume to the lubricating system as well asa 22-percent increase in its scavenging ability. Along with the new oil pumpHarley introduced a new cam chain tensioning system utilizing a pair of automatic, hydraulic tensioners, whichreplaced the current spring-loaded tensioner system. By no means are these theonly improvements to the original TC design, but what separates them from otherimprovements is that fact that Harley offers the Hybrid Cam Plate and High-FlowOil Pump kit, (P/N 25284-08 $429.95) that allows owners of 1999-2005 Dynas,1999-2006 Touring models, and 2000-20006 Softails, to easily upgrade theirbikes to the latest technology available on the TC-96 engine.
If you own a TC 88-inchbike and want to take advantage of the improvements seen on the TC-96 enginesyou should put some serious thought into adding this kit to your bike. Whilethese components are definitely an enhancement to a stock engine, they makeeven more sense when it comes to engines that have had high-performancecomponents added to them. Just the improvements in the oil pump alone make thisa modification to seriously consider. Add to that, the longevity and peace ofmind you get with the hydraulic tensioners, and it just makes sense to installthe kit.
Factory focus was theamount of pressure the tensioner applied to the primary, and secondary doublerow cam drive chains. The force applied by the springs (35 lbs-40 lbs) made theshoes (two of them) a serious friction wear and engine debris issue. Thecompletely redesigned hydraulic tensioners apply less force to the new singlerow primary chain on 2002-2006 models, (1999-2001 models utilize the originaldouble row primary chain to maintain the cam position sensor function). Theshoe is made from is a proprietary composite Harley declined to explain to mebut, they did indicate it is designed to last far longer than its predecessor.
Note: The new pumplooks similar to the old one with only a few visual cues to the upgraded part.What really separates the two is the size of the gerotors (housed inside) usedto move the oil through the pumps, (see photo).
While an increasedvolume of lubricating oil to vital components is an obvious advantage to anyengine, where the new oil pump really shines is in its ability to scavenge oilfrom the engine cases. Unlike water cooled engines, air cooled engines rely farmore on the lubricating oil to help maintain the engine’s operatingtemperature. With 22-percent increased scavenging ability, the high volume pumpcan easily suck hot oil from the bottom end, quickly returning it to the oiltank allowing it to cool.
“Having a largeamount of oil clogging the crankcase actually creates heat and robs power asthe flywheels plow through the oil,” Said Bruce Tessmer. “It’s liketrying to run in a swimming pool.”
Note: When installing the cams you will needto purchase a spacer kit (P/N 25285-08 $17.95) to assure your cam sprockets arealigned properly. With the cams installed, the secondary chain and adjuster goon prior to installing the oil pump and bolting up the new plate. Next, thesprockets, chain, and primary chain adjuster get installed.
A series of special toolsare required for the cam plate and cam replacement operation, including a shoppress. You can order these tools directly through JIMS or from H-D:
H-D #42325
H-D #43644
H-D #43213
H-D #43214
Attempting the camchange operation without these tools will be a hassle and can result indamaging components. The 1999 models used interchangeable ball bearings on theouter end of both cams. For 2000 and up, the rear bearing is a roller type andthe front bearing is a ball bearing type. It is highly recommended to update1999 models to the 2000 and up.
The new oil pump is aneasy fit with an O-ring, “But you need to be careful not to pinch, tear orsqueeze that bastard,” Eric said. “If it doesn’t seal, it will wetsump and fill the crankcase with oil, dragging the lower end down.”
Eric installed many ofthe components, including the Gerotor gears with assembly lube. He also madesure the pump didn’t bottom against the case and cut off scavengingcapabilities.
“Don’t forget the O-rings andwasher before you press on the cam race,” Eric said as he began to switchover to new S&S amazing Easy-Start cams and the new plate.
He pressed out the oldcams from the stock plate and grabbed the drive chain, which he carefullyinstalled in the same direction as before. He marked the timing marks on theoutside of the cam plate so it would be easy to confirm alignment from theoutside. Then he pressed the cams into the new H-D billet plate and installedthe new cam tensioner and chain.
Then I discovered thatthe official Bikernet Hearse died in the Bennett’s Parking lot, directly infront of their shop roll-up door. The starter was shot, rusted from 16 years inPennyslvania show and ice. John, the whiskey drinking Bennett’s customer, cameto our aid, and she was fixed in no-time.
Eric installed thefantastic 583C S&S Easy-Start cams.
The new Easy Start Camsfrom S&S Cycle make hard starting obsolete for 1999-up big twins. Availablein chain drive and gear drive versions.
Features:
• Start any engine witha stock starter
• Save your starter andbattery!
• Reliable – tested for10,000 starts and didn’t
even run the batterydown!
• Automatic – nobuttons to push
THREE MOST POPULARGRINDS
A bolt-in cam for allRPM ranges.
Something for everyone.
S&S set out todevelop a new group of bolt in cams for 2007-up big twins. The three designtargets were low end torque for touring, peak horsepower and a cam that wouldoffer the best possible combination between torque and horsepower. The 551emerged as the touring cam and the 583 is a great over all cam. The proven 585posted the best results for peak horsepower.
Here’s How they Work
ONE
Each of the two exhaustcam lobes are equipped with a spring loaded compression release lobe on the“heal” of the cam at the point where the valve would normally be fully closed.
TWO
The lobe holds theexhaust valve open slightly at cranking speed. This releases some of thecompression, making the engine much easier to crank.
THREE
Once the engine starts,and rpm increases, the compression release lobe is centrifugally retracted andthe engine runs normally, with full compression, and without any loss inperformance. This allows a stock starter and battery to start nearly anyengine.
Using stock pushrods isonly possible if the camshafts installed have the same base circle as stock,and no more than .585-inch lift. S&S kindly labels these cams as”Bolt-in” for easy reference. Currently S&S 510, 551, and 583cams are bolt in. Although, we were installing the 583 C S&S models, westill shifted to S&S adjustable pushrods, lifters and travel limiters.
Here’s a couple ofnotes from S&S regarding their cams and stock valve springs:
The 1999-2004 stocksprings will handle camshafts with lift up to .510. The 2005-up stock valvesprings will handle camshafts with lift up to .585. If a camshaft with higherlift is installed, high performance valve springs capable of handling a greaterlift must be used. A cam over .585 lift will cause interference between thevalve spring top collar and the valve seal with stock cylinder heads. That’sanother good reason we hauled Frank’s heads to Branch O’Keefe for tuning, andwe choose a mid range torque cam over a high-horsepower cam for cityride-ability.
Also, with big cams,piston and valve clearance must be confirmed. Clearance should be at least.060.
So, since the mastersof Branch Flowmetrics technology reside next door to Bennett’s we hauledFrank’s heads to John O’Keefe, who worked for Jerry Branch for decades andultimately took over and moved his shop to this Long Beach location.
Branch-O’Keefe
1940 Freeman Avenue
Signal Hill, CA 90755
562-597-2850
John and Bandit are excited about their debate over Evos vs.Twin Cams.
“We can get over a 100 horses out of an 80-inch Evo,with cams, headworks, and open exhaust system,” John told me during ourdiscussion of his head work system.
John is devoted to making Evos, Sportsters, and Twin Camsinto reliable torque monsters, capable of leaping tall buildings and dodgingcell phone drivers. He’s all about torque over tall-horsepower configurations.He basically allows an Evo or Twin Cam to breathe. First, he sandblasts anyhead. Then he hand cleans the castings where they over hang into the intake andexhaust ports to align the port with the edge of the valve seat.
“Each head is different,” John said, and hehandles each head forming by hand or on a tracer mil with a template head.”They need balance between volume and velocity,” said John. “Itdepends on how the rider plans to ride.”
Then they blend out all the traditional valve angles andgrind the valve to 60 degrees. John takes the stock intake of 1.850 to 1.900and the exhaust from 1.608 to 1.610. All his heads are fitted with AW Black Nytrate,indestructible valves. “After two running years, I can wire wheel one ofthese valves and they look like new,” John said.
Each head is fitted with AW bronze magnesium valve guidesfor great heat dissipation. “You can set these self-lubricating guides upmuch tighter that stock cast iron guides,” said John. “They are seventimes the cost of H-D guides and worth every penny.”
Theneach head is polished to a magic luster. Here’s the Branch O’Keefe two-stagehead descriptions:
#4 Heads for Twin-Cam and Evo’s
This performance head is designed to fit a variety of engineconfigurations and riding styles. Our #4 head works with both the Twin-Cam orEvo applications of varying displacements. Compression ratios for these headsare 9.6-1 for the Twin-Cam and 8.9-1 for the Evo. This results in a head thatperforms much higher than its stock counterpart. $950.00
PT Heads for Twin-Cams
Our PT head is the result of many hours of R&D,specifically designed for touring riders with 88-inch or 95-inch Twin-Camengines. The benefit of this exceptional designed head is that it provideslow-end torque that is so often required for loaded-down, long distancemotorcycles. Compression ratio is based around a figure of 9.5-1 when used withour flat top pistons. The result is power where it’s most needed: in the2000-4000 rpm range. $850.00
The Bikernet staff is very intrigued with head modificationcapabilities and Branch O’Keefe. Jerry Branch, who at 86, still hangs out atthe shop and mentors John. He designed the first bathtub heads for Harleyduring the AMF era, in 1978. We will bring you more info on their head studiesas we build our next torque monster Evo 80. In the meantime let’s put Frank’sDyna back together.
Final Installation:
Notes
Important! The gap of the second ring should be larger than the top ring; this willhelp keep the top ring seated for improved performance.
Each ring should be fitted to the particular cylinder inwhich they will be installed.
Oil rails can be installed without adjusting the endgap. The minimum gap should be0.010”
Never alter the end gap of the oil expander ring.
1- Make sure the cylinder is clean. Wash the cylinder bore with soap andwater and dry thoroughly.
2- Check the ring end gap by placing the ring into thecylinder. Use a piston or caliperto ensure that the ring is placed squarely in the bore.
3- Measure the ring end gap with a feeler gauge.
4- See table for proper end gap measurement. If adjustment to the gap must be made,use a proper ring end gap filing tool.
Ring Gap Recommendations:
Top: Between .016-.022 with a target of .017
2nd: Between .016-.026 with a target of .021
Oil ring rails: Between .010-.050 with a target of .010-.050
5- Always file from the ring face towards the insidediameter to avoid damaging the face coating.
6- Remove material from only one end of the ring.
7- Ensure that ring end gaps are square.
8- Remove sharp edges and burrs.
9- Recheck gap measurement and adjust as necessary.
10- Repeat procedure with the other rings.
Piston RingInstallation
Eric rinsed off the piston and blew it clean beforeinstalling the rings.
Order ofinstallation
1- Oil ring expander
2- Oil ring rails
3- 2nd ring
4- Top ring
1- Install theoil ring expander to the bottom groove of the piston. The expander ring has a gold finish. Make sure the end of the expander ringis butted together and not overlapping (see image). If the tips are overlapped, excessive oil consumption willoccur. Orient the expander
2- Install oil rails. The oilrails are the thinnest of all the rings. Either side can be placed up. Use a ring expander to install the rails into the
3- Install the 2nd ring with the dot facing up. The 2nd ring has a dull black finish and is the thickest ofall the rings. Use an expander toinstall the ring to the 2nd groove in the piston. Orient the gap according to the image.
4- The top ringcan be installed with either face up. The top ring has a chrome edge and is thicker than the oil rails. Use an expander to install
the ring to the top groove. Orient the gap according to the image.
PistonInstallation
Notes
Pistons are identical and can be installed in eithercylinder. Each piston is stamped“FWD” and an arrow which must point toward the front of the engine whenassembled.
Check piston pin to connecting rod bushingclearance. Clearance should bebetween 0.0007” and 0.0012”. Bushing should be replaced if clearance exceeds 0.002”.
1- Place rubber tubing over the cylinder studs to preventdamage to the pistons and rings during assembly.
2- Place a clean sheet of plastic over the crankcaseopenings to prevent anything from dropping into the crankcase.
3- Install one of the piston pin clips into each of thepistons. Make sure the piston pinclip opening is facing up when installed.
4- Lightly oil the piston pin, piston pin bore and upperconnecting rod bushing with clean 20W-50 oil or assembly lube. Eric used assembly lube.
5- Hold the piston over the connecting rod with the pistonfacing the correct direction and the piston pin bore and upper bushing boreslined up.
6- Install the piston pin through the piston pin bore and through theconnecting rod bushing until the pin contacts the clip.
7- Install the other piston clip with the opening facingup. Ensure that both clips arefully seated.
8- Repeat procedure for the rear piston.
“Don’t forget the base O-ring,” said Eric.”And don’t forget the cylinder drain O-ring.”
CylinderInstallation
1- Bring the front cylinder to TDC.
2- Apply a light coating of oil to the piston, rings andcylinder walls.
3- Apply a light coating of oil to the cylinder base o-ringand install on the cylinder.
4- Lightly oil the new o-rings for the lower cylinder deckalignment dowels and install.
5- Verify that the ring gaps are orientated correctly, referto the S&S image.
6- Remove the rubber tubing from the cylinder studs.
7- Install a suitable ring compressor.
8- Install cylinder.
9- Remove ring compressor.
10- Remove plastic sheeting covering crankcase.
11- Slide the cylinder down until it seats against thecrankcase.
12- Rotate the engine until the rear cylinder is at TDC.
13- Repeat procedure for the rear cylinder.
E- CylinderHead Installation
Head Gasket Tightening Torque Specifications
Multi layer steel (MLS) head gasket, PN 106-3714, 3.927”bore.
1- Check surfaces for flatness and imperfections, anexcessively rough finish may cause gasket failure.
2- Check all hardware for defects. Clean all threads and lubricate with clean oil. Lubricate the underside flange of thehead bolts with clean oil (wipe away excess).
3- The head bolts are two different lengths. The short ones go on the spark plugside; the long ones go on the pushrod side.
“I use anti-seize on all head-bolt threads,” Ericsaid as the engine flew back together.
4- Place the head gasket on the cylinder and locate thegasket using the cylinder head alignment dowels. Either face of the gasket can be up, there is not a specifictop or bottom to the gasket.
Note: Do not usethe cylinder head alignment dowel O-rings with MLS head gasket.
5- Once the gasket is in place, make sure that it fits thebore. The gasket should not hanginto the bore or combustion chamber area.
6- If using cylinder heads other than stock, check the brassrivets of the MLS gaskets to ensure the rivets do not interfere with thesealing surface in any way.
Head Bolt Tightening Sequence
7- Important! In order toproperly seal the head gasket, the head bolts must be torqued in the sequenceshown in the next step, fully loosened, then torqued again a 2nd time. Follow the head tighteningsequence in the next step then fully loosing the head bolts ¼ turn at a time inthe sequence shown in until fully loose. Repeat the tightening sequence in step 8 a second time.
8- Tighten the head bolts according to the followingprocedure: start with the front head then the rear head.
a- Tighten each bolt finger tight using the sequence in theimage from S&S.
b- Tighten each bolt to 10-12 ft-lbs using the sequence.
c- Tighten to 15-17 ft-lbs using the sequence.
d- Finally, tighten the bolts an additional ¼ turn (90degrees).
FinalAssembly
Assemble the remaining items according to theHarley-Davidson service manual specific for your motorcycle.
Once assembly is complete, the proper tuning must becompleted before the engine can be broken in. An S&S VFI module or other aftermarket tuning
system must be used to correctly adjust the ignition timingand fuel control systems to correctly function with the newly installed parts.
Note: The S&SVFI module will not work with 2008-up Touring models due to the use of throttleby wire.
S&S ADJUSTABLE PUSHRODS AND TRAVEL LIMITERS
S&S now manufactures and hydraulic lifter kit replacingstandard hydralic lifters with restrictive units.
“They make the engine quieter,” said Eric,”but their real benefit is at high rpm, where they make the valve traintiming more consistent for better power.”
The S&S HL2T kit is designed to limit the travel of thehydraulic lifter making it impossible for the lifter to collapse. Strongervalve springs are often used to avoid valve float at high rpm. The HL2T kitprevents high valve spring pressure from collapsing lifters. With the kitinstalled, stock hydraulic lifters work like solid lifters at high rpm, whileretaining normal hydraulic function for minimal noise and maintenance undernormal conditions. Another advantage of the HL2T kit is that if a valve is heldopen when the engine is not running, valve spring pressure will not causelifters to bleed down and collapse. Collapsed lifters can cause hard startingand excessive valve train noise when the engine is restarted. Adjustablepushrods must be used with this kit.
Be careful when replacing adjustable pushrods. Some lockagainst the lifter and some against the pushrod. Don’t be deceived. We will rundown some of the S&S instructions and recommendations.
S&S quickee Pushrods for all big twin engines containtwo long and two short pushrods. If your kit contains four different lengthpushrods, the longest pushrod is for the front exhaust, next longest is therear exhaust. Of the two shorter pushrods, the longer one is for the frontintake, the shortest pushrod is designed for the rear intake. The pushrods kitsfor 1999-up big twin engines have two different lengths, short for intakes,long for exhaust valves.
All installation and adjustments must be made when theengine is cold.
Rotate engine until front piston is at the top of it’sstroke, with both front lifters at their lowest position (TDCC–top deadcenter, compression).
If equipped with S&S Easy Start compression releasecams, you must use extra care when adjusting pushrods. Because thedecompression lobe is near TDC, it is possible to adjust the pushrod while thetappet is on the lobe, if it’s not exactly at TDC. This will cause incorrectexhaust pushrod adjustment. To verify correct position, you can rotate theengine in the forward direction and feel for the exhaust tappet to slightly lift(about .030) and set back down on the base circle. This is the proper point toadjust the pushrods.
Extend the front pushrod until it contacts the hydraulicpiston assembly in the lifter body, then extend pushrod an additional fourcomplete turns, until piston assembly is in contact with the HL2T spacer andthe valve is lifted off the seat. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods arereadjusted after engine has run, or if all oil was not removed duringinstallation, allow as least 20-30 minutes for piston assembly to bleed down.
Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated withthe fingers with slight drag. Continue loosening (shortening pushrod) on fullturn, or six flats.
Note: Shortening adjuster an additional six flats, or fullturn from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This providesadditional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve theability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zero lash under normal operatingconditions.
Tighten the lock nut.
Repeat above procedure for the rear cylinder, this timebringing rear cylinder to TDCC.
Caution: When installed and adjusted, S&S Quickeepushrods must have a minimum thread engagement of .500 or 1/2-inch (pushrodtube to adjuster, not including the jam nut) or severe damage to the pushrod aswell as your engine may occur.
When adjustment is complete, the jam nut must have fullthread engagement with the adjuster screw. If you do not have full engagement,the pushrod is not correct for the application or position.
S&S SUPER E CARBURETOR INSTALLATION
We aren’t going there. S&S ships out a 32-page manualwith every carb. Eric basically pulled the S&S intake manifold, which isdesigned for a multitude of applications. He shaved it to fit the Twin cam headconfiguration, installed the new S&S supplied rubber sealing rings and usedYost Allen (45 degree) wrenches.
“The intake manifold, which is generally a 10-minutejob,” Eric said, “turned into a half-hour ordeal.”
decked, effectively shortening the engine height, the manifold may be
too long,” said Bruce.
He installed the new shiny E-series carb with the insulatingblock and gasket, and tightened it from the left side. Then he installed thegas line being careful to run the line away from hot spots. He installed thetank vent then installed the rocker boxes. The only item not supplied with thekit were the rocker box gaskets. There are six bolts to hold the tray down, sixbolts fasten the girdle, and six bolts hold the lid in place. The smaller boltsmust be torqued to 22 ft pounds and the large to 120 inch pounds.
Eric installed and adjusted the throttle cables, checked thegas line, installed the backing plate, air cleaner, and we used the auxiliarychoke knob, not the one that is fastened to the air cleaner backing plate.Finally he lowered the tank back into position and we were ready to rock.
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
Notes:
S&S engines and parts are designed for highperformance and are not as tolerant of inadequate break-in. Correct break-in will assure longerengine life andwill prevent unnecessary engine damage. Engine damage caused by improper break-in is not covered under theS&S Warranty.
Proper engine tuning will need to be performed for yourengine to run correctly. This canbe achieved with the use of an S&S VFI module or other aftermarket tuner.
1- Initial start up. Run the engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750rpm. DO NOT crack the throttle or subject toany loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at thistime. During this time, check tosee that oil pressure is normal, oil is returning to the
oil tank and no leaks exist.
2- Shut off engine and inspect for leaks. Allow engine to cool to the touch.
3- Start up engine again and allow the engine to warm up for3 to 4 minutes. Again, do notcrack the throttle or subject the engine to any type of load. Shut down the engine and allow tocool. Repeat this procedure atleast 3 more times.
4- After the engine has cooled to room temperature, you areready to start the 500 mile engine break-in process.
5- The first 50 miles are the most critical for new ringsand piston break-in. Engine damageis most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500rpm. Avoid lugging the engine, riding in hotweather or in traffic. Vary theengine speed. We recommend
changing the oil after the first 50 miles.
6- The next 500 miles should be spent running no faster than3500rpm or 60mph. Avoid runningcontinuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine, Vary the rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at500 miles.
7- For the balance of the first 1000 miles the engine can berun in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and the motorcycle can beoperated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine; no drag
racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.
8- After 1000 miles, change the engine oil. Now the motorcycle can be operatednormally.
OIL RECOMMENDATIONS
S&S Cycle recommends the use of Mobil 1® V-TWIN 20W-50synthetic oil. Break-in can be performed with either conventional oil or Mobil1 synthetic oil. Regardless of what type of oil you select, be sure to only useoil specifically designated for use in an air cooled motorcycle and utilize theviscosity suggested for the temperature you will be operating your motorcyclein.
Viscosity
SAE 20W50 –above 30-100 degrees
SAE 50–above 60-100 degrees
SAE 60–above 80 degrees
WARRANTY:
All S&S parts are guaranteed to the original purchaserto be free of manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for a periodof twelve (12) months from the date of purchase. Merchandise that fails to conform to these conditions willbe repaired or replaced at S&S’s option if the parts are returned to us bythe purchaser within the 12 month warranty period or within 10 daysthereafter.
