Bassani is a neat company from Orange County, California. It's one of those mysterious businesses. Some companies look big and flashy, but they're small. Some companies, like Bassani, appear to be a well-organized shop making a few products, when actually they make Harley exhaust systems, metric motorcycle systems, Victory bike pipes, AFT-CAT systems, truck and SUV exhausts, and auto exhausts for almost any make and model. Incredible.

I've been through their shop. It's big but it wouldn't seem to be that vast. The boss, Mr. Bassani, has been dragging his ass to the same dark, wood-paneled, office for several decades, but his product line expands every year. We recently had the opportunity to upgrade a flat silver 2009 FLH, so we reached out to Bassani to test one of their systems.

There's always a quirk surrounding Bikernet tech installations. First, we planned it for a friend of a friend. Then the friend, bro, member of the 5-Ball Racing Team, bought a new 2010 dresser. This bastard can't afford to buy himself a shed to house his tools (he's a talented construction worker). He can't afford to buy his kid's shoes, but he can run out and buy a new dresser, when he could buy a slightly used one for half price.

Okay, enough complaining, he bought the new bike, so the Bassanis were directed at the '10, but not so fast, kimosabe. Seems Jeremiah owed James a favor, so we shifted back. Good to know, since the 02 sensors from the '10 don't fit in '09 exhaust systems. Besides, we would probably be arrested by the anti-tampering police for messing with a 2010 model.

Don't let me roll on the subject of anti-tampering and EPA regs. One more quirk in this formula for technical excellence at the Bikernet Headquarters. Nyla's younger son, who owes us a couple months rent, because he can't seem to get to work on Mondays or work a full week, any week, is required to handle electrician duties around the headquarters. We replaced a heater in an upstairs Bikernet penthouse, and needed to patch the exterior vent hole. We needed to patch this 10-inch hole in the wall since last March. Every week, this kid is reminded and every week, he finds some excuse.

Jeremiah.

Way at the other end of the spectrum of no-account lazy bastards is Jeremiah. He's a master of completion and quality. He works hard, fast, and efficiently. If you mention a Bikernet project to him, it's done before you put the phone down. So I called the kid.

“Listen,” I said, trying to stay composed. “Jeremiah is coming over. Call him and make sure we have all the elements to fix that hole. Pull all the materials together and he'll help you finish the job and get your mom off your back.”

“I'm tired,” he said and hung up.

Some folks have desire; others don't. Jeremiah showed up with his partner, James, and while we were waiting for his 2009 FLH to cool down, Jeremiah cut the paper, then the screen, mixed up a pot of concrete, and filled the hole.

Heavy stock system.

We started the Bassani project of replacing the heavy stock dual catalytic converter system with a light, all black Bassani, FLH 637-B two-into-one system.

We started by removing the rear muffler fasteners to the bag bracket.

“Congratulations on owning a genuine set of Bassani exhaust pipes. Bassani pipes are designed for maximum sound and performance,” the supplied literature explained. “Please follow the instructions below for installation. If you have any questions, please call our tech line at 714-630-1821. Thank you!”

Only a simple batch of hand tools was required to complete the jog, including:

5/16 hand nut driver
Snap-ring pliers
3/8-inch ratchet and extension
3/8-inch socket swivel
½ and 9/16-inch short sockets
Flathead screwdriver
3/8 inch Allen socket with ¼ hex socket driver

There's only a couple of clamps, one on the front of the transmission, and one under the bike in the center for the cross-over line.

We also needed a couple more hand tools and some blue Loctite, but it was all minor. First, we removed the saddlebags and set them aside. Then, starting at the rear of the bike, we began taking off the stock system, first with the ½-inch muffler fasteners under the bags, then the muffler clamps, and the crossover clamp under the bike. Then we undid the transmission mount and removed the right floorboard, which was a much easier operation on this new frame. Next, we used the swivel and the short ½-inch socket to remove the exhaust header flanges and we were ready to pop the system free.

The 02 sensors were tight as hell, so I sprayed them carefully with Yield, a bolt removal chemical, and let them set for 15 minutes. They are held on with a 7/8-inch open-end wrench, a rare puppy. Bassani shipped the exhaust and the heat shields separately, with separate instructions, which twisted our minds a couple of times, but all the elements were there, including:

Transmission bracket
Flange nut and bolt
1 7/8 P clamp for the transmission
2-1 7/8-inch band clamps for the header to the muffler connection and seal
And a batch of heat shield stainless clamps

My rare 7/8 open end wrench. The key is to unplug the sensors from the wiring loom, so we could move the pipes away from the bike for a better grip.

A complete system of full-coverage heat shields was supplied. Heat shields nowadays are predominately blue chrome shields for chromed systems. In this case, the black heat shields could have been reduced substantially, so we used some and set some aside.

Here's an exhaust flange, notice the indent for the circlip.

Fasteners, gaskets, and exhaust flanges are an odd mix with most custom exhaust systems. If you are building a bike from scratch, you will generally need the exhaust flanges, spun gaskets, and sprung clip rings. Plus, we generally need some fasteners.

I generally like to replace the factory exhaust port, steel wool gaskets, but they're funny. Bassani recommended that we check and replace if damaged. More and more, I agree. If they look good and solid, not burnt or dinged, leave them alone. Sometimes replacing them is a pain and the new one gets jacked around during installation.

This is the new pipe/transmission bracket clamp from Bassani.

In some cases with touring bikes, the pipe manufacturer supplies a new transmission bracket. In this case, we received a new blacked-out clamp that lined up perfectly with the existing tranny case bracket.

Last year Bassani built this system for our Salt Shaker.

Here's the flange and circlip in place on the new system.

Next, we took the old flanges and circlips off the stock pipes and Jeremiah made sure we kept front flange with the front exhaust. The circlips slipped off the stock pipes easily and we muscled them onto the new Bassani pipes. We made sure the flange was in place first and turned to the correct side with the indent toward the circlip.

“Install the front head pipe but do not tighten completely,” read the instructions. “Slide the ’P‘ clamp onto the pipe with the ’P‘ pointing downward. Thread the supplied ⅜” bolt through the top arm of the clamp, the bracket, the bottom arm of the clamp, the supplied washer and fasten loosely with the supplied flange nut.”

Actually, they shipped us a too-short 5/16 bolt and we used the original stock 3/8-inch carriage bolt and lock nut with blue Loctite. At this point, we did not tighten anything. We installed the rear head pipe, but didn't tighten it, just snug during this alignment phase.

Muffler clamps were metric. We had to slide them around to the interior, to avoid the heat shields. We made sure we could see the slots on both sides of the clamp, for proper sealing.

The instructions called for spraying lubricant on the header pipes to allow the muffler to slip on, but we didn't have a problem. We slipped the clamps on first and tried to decide how to position the heads for access. “What about the heat shields?” Jeremiah pointed out.

We repositioned the clamps a couple of times for access and to avoid the heat shields. The bracket under the bag allows some flexibility. We aligned the muffler with the rubber-mounted bracket and installed the short ½-inch head bolts. Then we returned to the engine and rotated our tightening procedure from exhaust port to exhaust port, tightening each nut a couple of turns as a time and watching the stud threads protruding from the nuts. We also used blue Loctite on these.

Blue Loctite on a muffler fastener. Some say you just need a drop. Jeremiah over-did-it here, but the key is clean, oil and grease free fasteners, for Loctite to work.

Once the flanges were tight, we moved along the pipe tightening the clamp fasteners, the clamps, and the muffler bolts.

Once the system was in place and checked, twice, we followed the Bassani Exhaust Care and Maintenance procedures before installing the heat shields. These recommendations are primarily important for chromed systems:

“Clean with a soft cloth and rubbing alcohol or glass cleaner to remove fingerprints, and any residue before starting. Fingerprints or any residue will stain the finish when pipes get hot.
• DO NOT use an abrasive cleaner or coarse cloth on any chrome-plated surface.
• Use glass cleaner and a soft clean cloth to shine and maintain brilliance.
• Cure the finish (chrome or coated) by running the engine at idle/low rpm for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Stop engine and allow pipes to cool. Repeat this step 3-4 times.”

Also, on long system such as this one, it's a good notion to step back and review the alignment. Once in a while spacers, need to be placed between the mufflers and the bag brackets to align the system with the bike. Next, we carefully installed several heat shields using the supplied clamps.

In each case, we tried to ensure the appropriate shield fit properly and determined how the clamp should face for access. Then we slipped the clamp band through the shield runner and spread it gingerly before pressing the bands over the black-coated pipes. There's a trick to this to prevent scratching and allow the tang and the fastener to thread properly after the shield is in place. If the tang is bent too much, it's difficult to thread.

Jeremiah replacing the footboard.

MANUFACTURER’S GUARANTEE

• Bassani provides a warranty on manufacturing defects. Manufacturing defects include material and workmanship. All components are inspected and carefully packaged before shipping.
• Chrome plating WILL discolor when exposed to high temperature. * Black pipes are warranted for 90 days from the date of purchase. The high exhaust temperatures found in engines exceed the capabilities of the chrome plating to handle the heat without discoloration. Bassani does not guarantee the pipes against discoloration.

Looks sharp, and he lost a good 30 pounds of non-performing weight.

We fired the bike up, and shut it down before it got too warm. We checked all the fasteners again. Then we took it for a ride. One more check, then Jeremiah rode James’ 2009 off into the Wilmington night. I told him to check it over once more about a week later, in case something comes loose or settles.

Done deal.

Bassani Exhaust
2900 E. La Jolla
Anaheim, CA 92806
Fax (714) 630-2980
Telephone (714) 630-1821

Bassani Exhaust and Bikernet are making 2009 the year of Freedom. We want to point out freedom issues and support freedom fights. If you are in a motorcycle rights group send us a banner (500 by 100 wide). We want to support freedom fighters on Bikernet. If you're not a member of your local rights group, step up. Now is the time!

We are currently working on the good Dr. Hamster's '34 VL, which, for some unknown reason has a set of mid '40s Indian handlebars mounted on dogbones, attached to his VL springer front end, with dogbone risers. It's a strange arrangement, but we decided to stick with it.

We checked out the bike from stem to stern, added a few vintage replacement components from Paughco, including stock-replacement rectangular footboards, and brake linkage. We satin black powder-coated several items, and scored a set of Lowbrow sparkplug wires. But we ran into a problem with the bars. They didn't seem to work properly, so I reached out to the master of vintage Indians, Mike Tomas, of KIWI Indian.

We're going to feature this exotic KIWI Indian Rocket custom in just a couple of weeks on Bikernet. Amazing bike.

Mike has a long daunting history with the Indian brand and here's just a taste: Mike took all the skills he'd learned in his time around the forge in New Zealand and beat, hammered and wrenched his first old and decrepit Indian model 741 wreck back into shape. Soon, his Indian would run so fast and so far that it would beat even the Hardleedee Milwaukee machines.

Paughco makes a tremendous assortment of vintage H-D parts, including brake linkage components, right back to the '30s.

Swearing Mike to secrecy, an island elder passed on the talisman of the Kiwi tribe, saying, “Armed with this device, you will detect the false and untrue, and identify the right parts for Indian motorcycles.”

Here's a classic example of a KIWI Indian.

From beneath his tattered coveralls, he unveiled a shining object, a Rockwell Hardness Tester, and gave it to Kiwi Mike. Mike knew his time was finished on the island paradise, and he would venture to cross the Pacific Ocean and face the most strident and daunting Indian challenges.

Mike has an incredible array of Indian memorabilia throughout his shop and offices.

Armed with his knowledge and his Rockwell Hardness Tester, Mike arrived in America, and discovered many of his idols of Indian restoration were false. The cheap parts – even many expensive ones – were weak as putty, and would quickly fail. With the help of his fair wife, Carolyn, Mike began manufacturing parts as strong as battleship hulls and equally long-lasting. Together, they built KIWI Indian Parts from tiny beginnings into the strident business it is today, dedicated to keeping Indians alive.

Kiwi Mike and Carolyn settled in their warm Riverside home, near the best orange groves in the country, determined to raise a family. Indian owners became satisfied customers. Mike fought thieves and rouges for his piece of the Indian name, and stayed absolutely true to the original Indian style and flathead driveline. Maybe there is such a thing as a happy ending?

Mike isn't done yet by a long shot. He now builds his own frames in the Indian tradition. He manufactures his own drivelines and front ends. Everything he builds is carefully based in manufacturing prowess and quality determination. He doesn't want to change the product, just refine it to perfection.

Consequently, we were beckoned to the vast KIWI Indian facility, near the Riverside fairgrounds, to rebuild the good doctor's handlbebars. Mike's crew has become the go-to team for Indian restorations.

“Don't bring your bike in boxes,” Mike suggested. “Leave it alone and roll it off the truck complete. We will take care of the rest.”

Throughout the day and during the handlebar rebuild process by Travis, we quizzed Mike about his business and restoration recommendations.

“Today our business is about 1/2 reproduction parts and the other half split between restorations and new bike manufacturing,” Mike said. “Our new Indian bike manufacturing is rocketing through the roof.”

Travis pulled our bars apart carefully and studied the internal components. As it turned out, Indian bars operate the internal solid cables from the inside of the bars, not externally, like Harley-Davidson. Mike continually pointed out how simple Indian mechanics were, and he was dead-on with the bars.

No matter the simplicity, Mike studied every aspect of any build. The Chop N Grind Performance Team met us at the facility and noted Mike's stickler nature throughout any rebuild process. He precisely documents every aspect of any engine rebuild. He studies wear, product function, heat damage, and lubrication. In his engine rebuilding room, he has the only tester for Indian oil pump capacity in existence.

We also discovered a jammed horn button on the doctor's bars.

I would love to spend a week at his facility and follow an Indian Chief engine rebuild from start to finish. Mike also studies fuel and oil ingredients and was impressed with Joe Gibbs lubricants, which we compared to Spectro Synthetic oils favorably.

Interesting way to install a steering damper on a springer front end.

“I always recommend straight weight oils for vintage bikes,” Mike said. “I also discovered that many of the EPA-required alterations to fuel, such as MTB, made lead look good.”

Gradually, Mike has learned how to manufacture each Indian component, and he is currently working on a line of highly improved Indian replacement pistons with cam-ground, moly-coated skirts and offset wristpins. He works with James gaskets to make his KIWI line of gaskets for Indians.

The Indian bars strapped to the KIWI operating table.

Back to the bars. Travis checked the internal cable mechanism. One side was missing the locking washer that holds the cable housing.

The bars themselves were in good shape. The fine-threaded grips were clean and spun on easily, but one of the rubber grips was damaged.

Here's the original block and pin that slides in and out of the slot in the bars to control the throttle or the mechanical timing advance.

We were missing one of these thick washers (cable stop) with with tits on either side. They are crucial to holding the outer cable in place.

Someone had developed and machined a catch insert threaded into the guides in the bars, much like external throttles. We were working with two internal grip mechanisms, one for the throttle, and one for the mechanical spark advance.

Travis trying to dig out the homemade stop.

While I worked with Travis on the bars, Mike, Bob T. and Dr. Hamster discussed Bonneville racing. I warned Mike about Bob T., the Chop N Grind spy, in the center. He's notorious for stealing speed secrets.

The bars use solid internal wire and bare steel cable housings. Once Travis determines the cable length, he covers it with fabric loom and cleans up the ends with shrink tubing to prevent fraying.

Travis laid out all the new pieces. He bent about a ½ inch of the solid cable at 90 degrees and used an anvil to tap the two cable guide components together.

We never grabbed a shot of Travis bending the solid internal cable. I know, fire the photographer.

“This is the weakest link to this whole system,” Travis said. “If the cable bends or flexes, this is where it will break.”

Take my word for it. It's in there.

This external cable nut threads onto the cable and ends up on the outside of the bars, locking the external cable in place. Once installed, we will fasten the cable near the distributor and secure it near the carburetor to prevent flexing.

Once Travis removed the custom inserts, we slipped the new housing in place. He put the washer over one end and he spun the nut way down the cable to allow for enough space to slip the cable through the bars. As you can see, the nut resides just outside the bars.

“It saves a lot of time to install the nut about a foot down the housing first,” Travis said. “It's a bitch to install the cable housing, then spin it on from the other end.”

Then Travis twisted the housing with pliers, unraveling it slightly on the outside of the guide washer. That grabbed the cable from the internal end. He used an Emory disc to smooth the edges before installation.

See how he twisted the end.

Travis started on the other grip and performed the same operation. In this case, we grabbed a shot of the technician twisting the outer housing to create a bung, then the guide washer in place in the slotted bars. We snatched another shot of the solid line in place in its bung, which is grabbed and pulled by the grip.

Tried to grab the cable bending operation shot again, unsuccessfully. The photographer will turn is her resignation tomorrow.

All the elements in place.

With the two cables in place, the good doctor and Travis turned toward the horn button. It was jammed and not insulated, so it was grounded around the clock. Since I couldn't find a horn on the VL, we're not sure what the hell it was wired to. The wire disappeared under the tank, and I clipped it to remove the bars. We will see over the weekend, when installation takes place.

The action is fast and furious at the KIWI shop.

Basically, this switch adds a ground to any circuit, when the button is depressed.

Mike had a kit that replaced our worn out horn button components.

I snuck into the KIWI clean room while Mike explained lower-end balancing to the Chop N Grind spies. That's his oil pump testing device in the background. Then I returned to the service area, where Travis had just completed running the fabric loom over the cable housing and the bars were complete.

Mike's wife, Carolyn, unveiled a mouth-watering spread of sandwich fixings and we dove in before rambling back across Los Angeles to the magnificent Bikernet Headquarter on the port.

Since Mike is a family man, we won't reward this fine tech with a babe, but how about a Rack of SPAM from the Bikernet Staff?