Bikernet Bonneville Effort, Part 15, Scrambling the Salt Shaker
By Bandit | | General Posts
We were flying on this build, one item slammed together after another. We were flying, because I’m at a standstill at this moment waiting on a couple of elements. But that’s another story. Six days until I’m due to pull out for the run to the Badlands. It’s currently looking shaky. We’ll see what happens next.
This project has been a rush for the most part. It’s like building a bike to be more performance oriented than any other motorcycle I’ve built. Everything about this V-Bike, by John Reed, of Custom Chrome, is about handling and performance and we took it to another level with this segment. I spoke to a friend, Wil Phillips, of True-Track, the man who designed the first working rubbermounted Softail frame, the Rubbertail. Wil’s complete focus in this industry is handling right now. He developed the True-Track system to take the wobble out of touring Harleys, but his investigative efforts never stop.
When I told Wil I was building a big twin Buell with an Accurate Engineering 120-inch Panhead engine for Bonneville, his handling lights went on. He explained every aspect of the rubbermounted FXR chassis and how to detail the handling for high speeds. Here’s the list:
1. The very latest H-D forward rubbermount
2. Buell side rubbers
3. ¾-inch swingarm axle
4. Brass, self lubricating swingarm bushings
5. Dyna Glide axle adjusters
6. 1-inch axles (we didn’t go there)
7. Stainless steel Heim joints
8. Modified True Track for the V-frame.
Here’s the notion. We needed to eliminate vibration but retain rigid handling, prevent wobbles, flexing in corners or flat out. If you ride a touring bike, you know the drill. The True-Track is the first line of defense for any Touring model. So our first move was boring out the swingarm bushings for the heavier, stronger, H-D swingarm axle. Wil cut off a chunk of his stock Touring True Track and machined the edge on our milling machine to contour the frame member.
Wil had to make his system work with the Custom Chrome frame. He turned to the vast Bikernet Headquarters machine shop and went to work trimming his system and creating a way for it to mount to the CCI frame.
With each move Wil refit the True-Track to the frame over and over for a perfect fit. His extruded True-Track system was a step-up from his original billet machined units that gobbled time and material.
That was the last move before I completely stripped the bike, finished welding brackets and prepared to haul the components to Foremost Powder Coatings in Gardenia, California. During this process, with permission from John Reed, I cut out the kickstand frame member, running between the engine and transmission. This member didn’t exist on stock bikes, so I felt confident. It ran too close to Baker Transmission oil fittings for comfort, so I cut it off and decided to make my own kickstand.
It’s fortunate that I didn’t destroy the actual kickstand bracket. I cut it down and made another kickstand unit out of it and mounted it to the original mid controls mount on the frame. I’ll go into that later.
I divided the powder order into three groups and took photos of each and sent the shots to Don Claypool, at Foremost, so he could keep track of each part. This is critical to getting the job done right the first time.
You’ll have to forgive me if I ramble. The headquarters were just over-run by a bunch of kids and hot babes and they’re feeding me iced Coronas and limes. For SoCal it’s hot, like 96 degrees and 70 percent humidity. It’s warm.
Okay, what’s next? A couple of weeks slipped past and the powder was ready to pick up. I immediately started to assemble parts.
I chased threads, peeled off Powder tape and prepped for assembly. Keep in mind most parts are sand blasted before they’re coated, so there’s shit in the threads.
Here’s a perfect example of preparation. I was excited to slam this bastard together and roll. I started on the rear brake system and discovered they coated the lever axle shaft. I called Sin Wu away from the computer and she stroked my shaft with emery cloth until the powder was gone. I pressed Tephlon bushings from the stock lever into my hand made brake lever and dug the paint out of the clip-ring groove. Some of that was wasted time. If I had indicated to tape off that shaft, I would have saved an hour.
With a pneumatic cut-off saw I cut the steel lip off the Buell rubbermount. I had to be careful with heat, so I worked in shifts and cooled the casting between each operation. I needed to do that to clear part of the frame.
Wil pointed out that casting tabs and lips can form weak spots. He told me to grind them as smooth as possible to prevent cracking.
I needed to install the front end and discovered that the sand blaster blasted the neck bearing races, so I drove them out of the frame and installed a new set. JIMS machine makes a special tool, but I don’t have one. I winged it and spoke to a buddy, Larry Settle, who has owned a shop for 30 years in Harbor City. “I bang ‘em in generally,” Larry said. I tried to press them in, but they don’t want to slip in evenly, so it’s best to tap them until they’re start and press them the remainder of the way.
This is a kick-ass Paoli front end and it slips together easily. However, the entire unit is metric and I had to pay close attention to the fasteners. Since I was replacing bright-plated nuts and bolts with stainless Allens I started to learn the metric thread business. There are at least three thread pitches, not just fine and coarse like I’m used to.
Next, I pressed in the self-lubricating swingarm cleave blocks. They glided in simply and Wil told me to leave 4.5 inches in the center for the transmission. This actually works out easily since the rubbermounts on either side sit flush with the swingarm and hold the bushings centered. With the bushings in place I slipped the swingarm in the frame and snugged it down with two rubbermounts, then frame caps, nuts and washers.
With new stainless ½-inch fasteners I installed the shocks then the rear wheel. I’m still grappling with the chain alignment, but I’ll get there.
All the bolts worked out perfectly, except one. It rode close to the brake caliper anchor bracket. Ultimately, I shifted the flat washer on the back of the swingarm shock bracket to the front and I was golden.
I was anxious to install the dash plate we machine- turned for class. We also installed the digital speedo and padded the back of the dash to protect the wiring and prevent shit from flying into the back of the system. I’m hoping I didn’t interfere with any controls or adjustment screws. We’ll see.
I had to install the Le Pera, classic, gold metalflake seat. Since the bike is rubbermounted and has killer suspension, I didn’t go for any seat springs, but just 1-inch rubbers under the rear of the seat.
I installed the EyecandyCustom’s taillight with new stainless fasteners and started to think about wiring. I was working with Rollin’Sixes Customs and they make a complete set of Iron Cross, Spade and Star grips, pegs and shift and brake pegs. I decided to give them a shot since the back of the taillight sported an Iron Cross. But I’m not giving up the rubber pegs for the ride to Sturgis.
I started to understand the wiring harness that comes with the V-Bike kit from Custom Chrome. I flipped through the manual for the Wire Plus, The Ultimate Wiring System (602) 221-2417. It wasn’t bad. The more I picked through it, the more I understand where I could place electrical components. It comes with it’s own circuit breaker system, flasher for turnsignals and starter relay. Except for the headlight wires the schematic was clear and I went to work.
Next I had to design and mount another kickstand. Kick stands seem until until you jump into the task. They need to lock, so if the bike rolls if won’t topple over. They need to fold up, out of the way and not run into the primary drive or the frame. They need a spring that will control all this activity.
I dug through the trash and found the old Dyna style frame bracket and cut it.
That’s it. I started to install the brake lines, ISR controls from LA ChopRods and make the kickstand. Sturgis is just around the corner and while I wrote this the bastard painter called me to tell me all his fuckin’ woes while I paced the floor waiting on the sheet metal and the engine. Will I make it to Sturgis this year. It’s all up in the air. I’ve never been this close.
Bikernet Bonneville Effort, Part 14, Chop N Grind Hides Out
By Bikernet Contributor Buckshot | | General Posts
Since the visit to the Biker Net Headquarters a lot has transpired. First off thanks to the 5-Ball Racing Team we were able to score some parts from some of our sponsors. Jims USA and BDL Belt Drives. Also a few extra parts unknown to the 5-Ball team. What the hell. they were just lying around. I thought everything was up for grabs. There were parts everywhere; we just helped ourselves to all the good stuff.
Well all hell has broken out since then. 5-Ball Minutemen were spotted all over the desert looking for us. We are now forced to go underground. Our original shop has been shut down due to all the heat from our so called brother team. Shit, I just took a few parts, no big deal. So we found a secret bunker in the middle of nowhere. It’s a big desert, so I suggest our 5-Ball competitors watch your step. People tend to get lost out here, fast.
The good news: Dave Mackie finished the heads. Jim Leinweber is going to deliver the cams. One set of Avon Tires are being buffed and shaved at Nicks Tires Service in Long Beach (5-Ball Territory). Ross Forged Pistons are ready to go. A small amount of welding is yet to come on the rear controls.
We are on our way. I would like to say thanks to all our sponsors and all those who have contributed to our cause. I have received a lot of e-mails from other riders and race buffs across the country, looking forward to meeting you all on the salt.
Saw the “World’s Fastest Indian” the other night. Now, I can’t wait to get on the Salt again. Remember if you can throw a few bucks our way, it sure will help. We’re getting down to the wire. Larry P still needs Race Leathers, pop-ups for the shade on the Salt, and other miscellaneous items. But this won’t keep us down. We are going come “Hell or High water”.
We’re proud to report Bill Hayes of the Booze Fighters wrote an article on the 5-Ball team for The HORSE Magazine, look for it in July /August issue.
http://www.leinewebercams.com/Links.htm
–Bob T
Bikernet Bonneville Effort, Part 13, Shakin The Salt
By Bandit | | General Posts
First off I’ll announce that D&D is making my Bonneville Racing Exhaust System. This system, designed to take may ass to Sturgis, is the street version. My goal was to make a set of pipes that performed well and were close in so I could bolt them to the driveline. It’s prohibitive to attach a rubber mounted engine exhaust system to the frame. Suddenly there’s more vibration and it will generally tear the shit out of the pipes.
The engine and trans move around, and the frame remains solid. I’m working with Wil Phillips of True-Track to control the standard touring wobbles and handling problems. Wil is the master of Touring Handling with the True-Track (under the transmission Heim joint system), stronger front motor mount, Buell style rear motor mounts and he recommended I use his stainless Heim joints and a ¾-inch transmission axle. We’ll cover that more, but if you have a dresser, you need to check his site.
Wil also supplied me with solid, lubricated bronze swingarm bushings. I pressed the stock rubber jobs out of the swingarm before I sent it to powder. The bronze bushing also eliminated all the caps, washers and spacers associated with the stock bushings. I will also us Wil’s fork dampers for both bikes, for handling and fulfilling the SCTA Bonneville racing rules.
I hate to admit this, but we may have eaten a couple of digital film cards and I’m pissed. I don’t know why? Well, I do. It’s a pain in the ass to work on a bike, then stop to take shots. It’s like the mad scientist trying to stop, so he can document his insanity. Actually I enjoy slapping these articles together, just wish I had a staff, a photographer and a gorgeous redhead note-taker following me around all day.
We started with the notion of a two into one system for several reasons. We wanted a tight system and Jason, from Roland Sands Design, recently told me that a properly designed two-into-one system can make up for unequal length pipes, because one pipe is helping to pull the exhaust pulses out of the other. I grabbed a used Thunderheader and sliced it off at an angle and positioned it near the center of the transmission and made a mounting bracket.
Then I started bending a chunk of 16-gauge, standard car exhaust pipe coated with aluminum to prevent rust. I bent a piece of welding rod as a guide and went to work with my Muffler Master non-mandrel bender. It’s a blast to mess with, but unable to make super tight bends.
I turned to Hooker header bend segments and began to piece the exhaust, with various bends, cut with a Makita saw and held in place with Hooker exhaust alignment sleeves then tack-welded. My bender is cool for slight adjustments, or spreading pipes to slip over another one, but it won’t give the tight bike bends I need and make ‘em cool.
Shit, I got off track. Not really. I was going to discuss baffles, sound suppression and performance. I’m actually going to start on an extensive exhaust science article in the next couple of days, drawing from most of the pipe manufacturers in the industry. I’m writing it for American Iron Mag and Bikernet.com. I’m hoping to find out all the secrets to exhaust tuning known to man. Yeah right, but I’ll give it my best shot. Back to my system, I ordered three-point exhaust flanges from Accurate Engineering and discovered why they are cool and why the factory never used them. They are bitchin’ and strong, but touchy to mount.
Okay, I pieced several pieces together then decided I better call Berry Wardlaw, from Accurate, and ask a delicate question. You can build an Evo system as a one-piece unit in most cases and be able to remove it, but could I do the same with a Pan with three-bolt exhaust flanges. Also, did I need to run the pipes into the heads or cut them off at the mouth of the exhaust port.
Berry was in the middle of helping his girlfriend, Gypsy, build a bike for the Discovery Channel Biker Build-off against Kim Suter. They were scrambling, but he took a moment out of their pressurized schedule to give me a call. “It’s best to have the system break into two pieces,” Berry said. “There’s also a lip inside the exhaust ports, and you can run the pipes up to the lip. Now, get back to work. Sturgis is just around the corner.”
”Thanks a fuckin’ lot,” I said as he hung up. I was able to use a spreader tool on my Muffler Master and spread the front pipe to slip over the chunk left-over on the Thunderheader.
After everything was tacked into place I removed the system and finished all the welds. I need a TIG welder. Then I ground all the welds and rattle-canned them with flat black barbecue paint. It’s the only way to go, but I didn’t make heat shields, because I have some Lone Star Choppers Heat Wrap that I might try out. Larry Curik, the owner, was also working on Gypsy’s Build-off and out of his shop.
How’s this for a Panhead Sportbike Luggage rack. I’ve removed all the normal sportbike crap and replaced it with old school touches, I suppose. We’re hoping to engine turn this and clear powder them to match the dash. We’ll see.
Recently all the parts were shipped to Foremost Powder for special coatings. We hope to start assembling the 45 flathead by Friday. In the meantime I dug up this brass/bronze experiment and made another belt buckle. It’s sorta a ride-on-acid buckle, but what the hell.
Just when I thought we had these bikes under control a couple more projects surfaced. We need a kickstand for the 45 and I’ll order a center stand and have it powder coated. I also need lowered struts to replace the shocks on the Panhead to lower that puppy to the ground for salt running. Oh, and I need various sized sprockets to push the top end on the salt. Here’s what John Reed, the V-Bike designer, told me about the wheels and sprocket.
Don’t forget that the rear sprockets on the V are not Harley wheel fit, They are ducati fit, with Harley size on the outside(chain).You will either get someone (a manufacturer) to make the sprockets, or modify Harley style (fxr) ones, which means welding up the holes round the center, putting it on a Lathe, which is an absolute pain in the ass, and opening up the hole in the center to fit the wheel and drilling holes to fit the hub.
I use a rear-wheel sprocket with two less teeth than the one that comes on the V, and it makes it a lot better for my style of riding.–John
Holy shit.
Bikernet Bonneville Effort, Part 12, The 45 Brakes
By Bandit | | General Posts
I’m running back and forth between bikes fabricating shit, waiting for parts, dodging bullets and counting the days. Yesterday I received a note from David Zelma at Performance Machine. “We found the front caliper bracket,” he said and I sighed. I was beginning to wonder whether I dove into an odyssey to find the un-findable part.
I can vision that 10-inch front brake rotor bracket. I could swear I owned one at one time. Here’s the number, PN 1208-0017. It was designed for their standard 4- piston calipers to mount on XL-FX 1978 through 1983 with 10-inch disc brake rotors. The 10-inch number is the critical bastard. I have a handful of the ’84 and up jobs for larger rotors. If you have one of the 10-inch brackets, frame it and mount it on a wall.
So we shifted to the rear bracket. We had the coolest PM 8-inch floating rotor without holes in the aluminum center. Jay took it home and carefully measured the center of the lip, figured out five even positions and drilled them.
The PM based rear wheel hub needed to be drilled, for the rotor and that was going to be a trick. We didn’t have a drill press base large enough to reach the hub but we did have a large chunk of 6-inch steel tubing and center punches to mark the holes.
We marked, punched and drilled the holes with guide holes first. We taped the drill bit to give us the proper depth without drilling through the hub. Then we drilled the holes the proper diameter to tap them with 5/16 coarse threads.
With the rotor drilled and fitted, we dug around for a bunch of domed Allens to fasten the rotor to the hub.
The bolt heads needed to be shallow enough to miss the caliper bracket and stainless domed heads did the job. The other consideration is strength. According to Derek from DMP Enterprises, our fastener connection, (818) 775-9804, we should not use stainless fasteners on rotors. “You need grade 8 fasteners,” Derek said.
Okay, but this is a much lighter, less powerful bike. Next move, a wheel spacer between the two Timken bearings in the hub and Jay brought over the seamless tubing necessary, and we did our damnest to make a measurement. Then he took the data to the lathe and cut the tubing square to make sure the bearings ran true to the races in the hub.
After several precision cuts, Jay cut the bearing slightly short and we used a couple of shims to make it good with a clearance of .010-inch. Then I greased the bearings thoroughly and slathered grease on the races. With the spacer/shims in place we installed the bearings and seals. The wheel was ready to rock. We needed to grapple with the small rear PM two-piston caliper and mounting bracket.
This is a tricky Performance machine setup. It works with several sized rotors for axle spacing. It also allowed us to run the anchor bracket out either side of the caliper. It bolts into the middle of the caliper halves. First, we determined where to drill the ¾-inch axle hole by the PM gauge stamped into the caliper bracket. We drilled a guide hole then the major ¾-inch puppy.
Here’s the deal. The bracket fit right onto the axle, then we had to take the caliper apart and install the anchor-rod bracket. As you can see, in the top of the shot below, the bracket is sticking north. It can also be installed aiming south, or east and west, depending on how you’re holding the caliper. I musta split that caliper a half-dozen times during this process.
It was a trip figuring out all these components and how they fit together. You get the results of all our puzzle work. Okay, so once we put all the pieces together properly and wrapped the caliper over the rotor, centering the pads with the proper wheel spacer, we installed the wheel.
Our first custom notion was to mount the caliper Softail style so the caliper rested between the frame rails. We actually manufactured a brake anchor bracket and machined it to fit perfectly. Then we discovered that the wheel was seriously off center and we’d misplaced the sprocket spacing. We had to regroup.
We returned to the bike and dropped the axle caliper bracket straight down to allow the bracket to act as one of the wheel spacers and be pressed against the frame axle plate. There was a catch, a lump in the frame that didn’t allow the plate to set flat.
Bikernet.com does not have a CNC machine, but a BJ&M (Bandit, Jay and Masa) machine. This is truly state-of- the-art machining. Jay controlled one cutting direction, I controlled the other and Masa sprayed the cutting fluid for perfect accuracy and efficiency.
Note the cutting fluid being precision fed into the Bikernet Machine Shop operation.
We notched the bracket then discovered that our notch was on the wrong side. No worries, as the Aussie’s say, we flipped it and notched again.
During this operation a highly trained guard cat watched the shop door while positioned in the fairing we planned to modify for the 45 flathead, Sportster front end, since we my run this puppy in the partially streamlined class.
We’re missing some shots of the heim joint anchor rod we built and fastened to the frame through an Epson scanner glitch, but we’re working on it. We may retrieve them yet. In the meantime our frame is out to powder at Foremost in Gardenia.
But the shop isn’t on vacation. We’re cleaning the shop, rearranging equipment and refurbishing some new-to-us equipment in preparations to build these two bikes fast, once the powder is back.
We captured two old Delta wood working machines and transformed them into metal shop hands. One is a belt sander and the other a band saw. We needed both. We cleaned and grease ‘em, then try to make ‘em work. My problem was finding the right blades for the band saw in the correct length.
John Reed, the V-Bike designer for Custom Chrome, came to my aid.
You can get a blade welder. You buy a bulk length of blade cut it to length, put it in the welder and it joins each end. Then you have to heat the weld red, and let it cool, to anneal it. Rutland tools sell lengths of Starett band saw blades in specific lengths.
Come to a crunch, you can get your saw blade the right length, grind each end so it chamfers to a razor edge about ¼-inch in on each end of the blade.Put some silver solder flux and warm it with a gentle negative acetyline/oxy flame until it melts, (just under red) and touch it with just enough silver solder to let itcapillary across the surface, hold each end together with some flux, heat it, and it will join, and grind the side so its the same thickness all over.
We tried the welder and it didn’t work so we decided the man with the torch could weld it, and I did, very carefully. Then ground it and we have a working bandsaw, I hope.
Next, I’ll bring you the exhaust pipe fab on the V-Bike 120-inch Panhead, followed by the assembly process on both bikes. We’re burnin’ daylight and Whiplash reminds me of the Sturgis deadline on a weekly basis.
Death To Justice
By Bandit | | General Posts
The judge banged the gavel and ordered the bailiff to shove in the next bunch of misfits. I faced 10 years for an accident deemed involuntary manslaughter along with perjury for claiming the girl wasn’t riding with me. She was riding with me.
I had hoped to avoid trouble for her but Sheriff Dick Folsey slapped her confession on the oak table – she faced 3 years as an accomplice to my crime. Only there wasn’t a crime; just a heated argument.
Sheriff Folsey’s dickhead obese brother was dead. He drove his Ford sedan drunk on the wrong side of the road as I rode in from the opposite direction. I braked and pulled off the road to my right, revving my pipes. The straights woke him up, and he swerved off the road into a massive umbrella of a Pepper tree. It wasn’t over; he jumped out with a shotgun to air his views. I was out of control in the weeds and slippery leaves. He aimed. I aimed and ducked slamming him into his Ford quarter-panel. Then the bastard had a heart-attack. I wasn’t about to resuscitate him but dialed 911 – that was my crime. Sheriff Folsey showed up to incriminate me.
The Sheriff and his two brothers were the only criminal types in town. They ruled the place like they had inherited it along with the badge from their upright father. The dead brother, Sammy, and the youngest, Jake, were hooligans with enough extortion beefs to put them in hardlabor-time in most jails. But so far they had the free Western rural justice pass.
“Don’t worry about me; just have faith”, Mandy whispered as we left the courtroom.
I knew what lay in wait for me; worse still I knew what the Sheriff planned for her. My fragile, sensitive Mandy would be a battered trophy for the learing Jake.
“We will be fine.” I assured her.
Driven in separate vehicles, we were taken back to the Sheriff’s lock up till the trial and the penitentiary bus gave us our enforced trip to hell. Mandy was in the back seat of a Jake’s patrol car, with a junior officer at the wheel. I bumped along a gravel road in an old prison bus, a loose bumper rattled me awake. I opened my eyes from deep meditation, contemplating my desperate options. No money for bail till trial. No money for a decent lawyer either. And no, this wasn’t the road towards the Sheriff’s office.
We were on a deserted trail. I sat up dead straight. There would be no costly trial to allow me a shot at justice. Up ahead Mandy was jostled in the back seat of the patrol car. She wasn’t alone. We were to be given a farewell to ensure our departure was as inauspicious as our earlier arrival to hell. Distant hum of traffic slowly thinned away. The cars suddenly stopped in the middle of nowhere. I sensed a movie, based on a story from the ‘50s. Young immigrant punks murdered in a distant field by cops.
“Hrrmph!” The Sheriff grunted as he pulled me out of the car by my hair. Jake was in the other car with Mandy. As a deputy opened the door, she scrambled out hurriedly, still handcuffed, wearing just her sports bra and unbelted jeans. Jake crawled out behind her still groping as she cried.
“Come to Daddy dear” Jake growled and reached out as Mandy stepped behind the skinny gutless deputy. The drunkard lost footing and fell. “You bitch! You will be sorry but sexy sorry; HEEhehehee.” He continued on all fours.
Unlocking my handcuffs, another officer in hate training held me by my arms as Sheriff Folsey worked out on my abs, then knees and then gave me a nose job with his nightstick. I crumbled to the dirt floor.
“Punks like you…deserve every…bit of slamming,” Sheriff Folsey spoke with forced breaks; the overweight pig couldn’t speak over three words without gasping. He kicked me, or tried to, only flicking more dirt on my face.
Mandy stared blindly at me. I wished she didn’t have to see me like this. She was all broken up inside. She called me the other day. “A ride on the Highway,” she said, “would set her mood to move to the city with me. We rode and ended up here.”
Jake hauled his fat ass to his fee and moved menacingly towards Mandy. The officers chewed tobacco and spat at the dusty deck. I remembered the words of an old biker, who cross the country many times alone. He constantly coached me on being observant on the road. He told me of repairs made with old coat hangers and parts made of road junk. He explained how to avoid accidents by watching for the hidden path, and he mentioned fights including street weapons. I was locked in terror but looked behind me to the loose bumper hanging by a nail fastener, a long, bent rusting dagger.
Jake shoved his scrawny counterpart aside and ripped Mandy’s sports-bra away from her young buoyant boobs. The Sheriff turned and I felt my imprisonment slacken. I had to do something, and I stood abrubtly as Jake fondled Mandy’s massive boobs roughly. The officer behind me stumbled and I drove him backwards into the bumper’s edge. I spun behind the squealing deputy and yanked the 6-inch rusting nail from the hole in the bumper. To my surprise it came free and I ran around the dusty black bus and directly at Jake.
Folsey gladly reached for his gun as I drove the corroded hunk of steel in his brother’s neck down to the hilt. It split his caratic artery and throat. He started gargling blood immediately. The skinny deputy rushed ahead, but I kicked his groin hard enough to sterlise him. I pushed Mandy down in front of the patrol car as the first bullet split the fender.
I pulled Jake’s .38 from his Holster as he clawed at his throat for air, leveled it as the Sheriff and unloaded all six rounds over the fender of the patrol car. His eyes widened is disbelief and he stumble to his death.
“Guess I am the rebel you considered me,” I picked her up by the waist; she was about to faint. The other deputy crawled for the tall weeds in the distance.
“What will we do Cain? They’ll electrocute us.” Mandy still had tears rolling down her soft cheeks.
“Something tells me justice died here. Maybe integrity will return.” I seated her in the police cars. “Don’t worry about a thing, we will be together, free and happy.”
I drove off the main road and parked behind shrubs. We hitched a ride in a trailer-truck to town and retrieved my bike. With the clothes on our back, my savings, her leather, we rode off on my Ironhead 1960 Sportster never to look back at the filth we left behind.
“Told ya we’d be fine!” I whispered in the wind as we crossed borders.
Copyright Ujjwal Dey 2007
Rebuilding The S&S Shorty Series Carbs
By Bikernet Contributor Wrench | | General Posts
I’m going to say, and I might be off base, that most carbs are rebuilt for a couple of reasons: either they sat too long, sucked bad gas, or ran without an air cleaner too long. I would venture to guess that most carbs on custom bikes don’t wear out. I would bet a serious number of carbs are rebuilt because they were sold used, and the new owner wants to be certain it’s in good shape before installing it in a new duty station. We’re going to cover the rebuild process with several recommendations and tips, so hopefully you’ll be able to operate your S&S Super E, G, or Shorty to its fullest extent, enjoying reliable operation for years to come.
Generally carb problems develop from crap in the gas: so always run a fuel filter. Crap in the air; so run and clean your air filter from time to time, as well as crap in the float bowl, from storing the bike too long between start-ups.
In this case Brad rebuilt his ’61 Panhead and decided to install a used S&S carb, so natch he wanted to inspect it. This process accomplished two strong beneficial elements: maintenance and knowledge. We made the carb new for a long durable high performance life, and now we both know the ins and outs of an S&S carb.
So where do we start? Remove the carb, clean the air cleaner, inspect the fuel filter and replace if necessary. Spray the air cleaner element with an approved element spray based on if you have a foam filter or a paper one. Make sure the intake manifold fits well against the ports and the O-rings are not cracked or damaged, also check the straps to ensure they are cool and secure. Be sure the carb is mounted properly and not held with the manifold clamps or resting against a pushrod tube. That was the case with a professionally built custom bike we worked on recently.
I just glanced at the S&S installation guide, which I will refer to often, and here are a couple of super-basic recommendations: You’re messing with gas, be careful. If you can, handle the operation out in the open. Don’t burn your garage down. Plus, today’s petrol is nasty shit. It will burn your hands. Wait until the bike is cool and disconnect the battery. One spark and your wife will never speak to you again. Make sure you shut off the petcock before you work on your carb. Anytime you’re bike is not running, shut off the petcock.
The S&S guide pointed out “Start the installation when you’re fresh.” I like that one. They don’t want you burning your bike and pad to the ground ’cause you ripped off your $500 carb while toking on a bong. It’s a good point. You’re carb is one of a couple of delicate watch mechanisms running your motorcycle. It’s delicate and precise. Take your time with each element, including removing the rubber fuel line from the carb. Often after that little bastard clamp has been snugged against the brass fitting for a couple of years, it’s stuck. Remove the clamp completely. Take a very small sewing machine screwdriver or a pointer and work it under the dried lip of the gas line. Spray some WD40 under the lip and attempt to rotate the screwdriver around the brass nipple base. Let it set for a couple of minutes and it might slip comfortably off.
I’ve seen them so unyielding it would take a come-along to set it free, damage the carb and burn the your mother’s house down in the process. Sometimes it’s best to cut the line with side-cutters above the nipple, remove the carb and deal with it once all the petrol has been eliminated from the carb. Then you can carefully clamp the carb body in a vice and/or slice it off with a sharp knife.
In our case the carb was already removed, so we pulled the O-ring from the back which seals the carb to the intact manifold. We also installed a brand new S&S intake manifold to make sure we had the proper venturi for this carburetion and a manifold designed for the S&S system.
Next I reached out to a factory rep for his advice. Here’s what he said:
One of the problem areas on any carb is excessive wear in the housing, where the throttle shaft rotates. The old Bendix carbs were notorious for this. The excessive wear would create an air intake leak causing drivability issues and poor idling.
I used to make stainless steel bushings and bore the throttle shaft boss. Then I could press in the bushings and save a carb from being scrapped. I think that S&S has a repair kit for this problem. It may be that you send the body to S&S, and they fix ’em in house, I can’t remember.
We also would run an in-line filter between the tank and carb in the fuel line. This has always been a good idea to keep the shit out of the float bowl. The tank fuel valve usually has a filter screen in it, but they are difficult to inspect. Every now and then I drain the carb float bowl to inspect the gas for particles.
As far as winter storage: I put the Stabil additive in the gas tank. Then I run the bike a bit making sure the fuel additive reaches the carb. I don’t drain the float bowl. In the spring, I flush the float bowl and gas tank after the winter season. Then I install fresh gas, new plugs and start ‘er up, allowing the fluids to warm, then drain all the oils. I’ll then install fresh fluids and be good to go. This worked for me when I lived in Chicago. A very cold place!!
–Pablo
Good advice: If you ever install a Super E or G hold onto the installation guide. It’s fulla helpful information as well as drawings, including a breakdown of the entire carburetor. Currently there is no rebuild instruction sheet, making this kit a basic clean, inspect, and assemble with new components. The install guide does tell you how to trouble-shoot some specific problems.
The kit includes nearly every internal part necessary except for the main jet, mid-range jet and the throttle shaft bushings mentioned above by Pablo. As you can see in the photo, all the other elements including fasteners, throttle shaft, butterfly, springs and gaskets are included.
With Brad’s pink parts cup under the carburetor we removed the float bowl, drained the body and cleaned it with solvent. Brad experienced some starting problems and the accelerator pump didn’t work properly, although the bike seemed to run fine once rolling down the road. We researched the Shorty installation and jetting guide for troubleshooting tips. In most cases the problem can be caused with crap in the intermediate air bleed metering hole or the main discharge air bleed metering hole. They’re in the bottom of the carb and can be blown out with forced air once the float bowl and gasket are removed.
Caution: Don’t not use wires or drills to clear holes. If sizes are altered, air/fuel ratios of idle, intermediate and high speed systems will be changed resulting in poor performance. Make sure to wear glasses when messing with compressed air.
There is also a bowl vent tiny passageway in the bottom of the bowl. It is designed to equalize bowl pressure and atmospheric pressure. Make sure it’s clear or the engine will run erratically.
Problems can also occur when a rider doesn’t use an insulator block between the carb body and the air cleaner. Heat transferred from the manifold to the Shorty carburetor body can cause a temporary rich condition at idle and low rpms when bike is hot.
They also mentioned bikes not running air cleaner elements or running velocity stacks are recommend to remove the bowl vent screw part number: 11-2161. It should be removed to insure atmospheric air pressure equals air pressure in bowl cavity above the fuel level.
We pulled the float and dissembled it, cleaned it and blew out the passages. Then we removed the accelerator cap from the bottom of the bowl. It holds the two very small O-rings, two dinky ball bearings, a spring, the accelerator pump diaphragm, and ½-inch diameter spring. We cleaned this cap thoroughly and blew out all the passages. We also noted that the cap was severely abraised and needed to be surfaced on a flat stone to remove any grooves.
It’s a real trick to put this puppy back together. At first we installed the spring on the wrong side of the diaphragm. The rubber impregnated fabric diaphragm has a raised edge and it slips into a groove on the cap and the spring is placed under the diaphragm. We used thin shim stock to hold these elements securely into place as the cap was turned over and positioned on the upside down float bowl bottom.
The float bowl could not be turned right-side up since it housed the two dinky check balls and one tiny check ball spring. Believe me, when you drop this puppy everything stops to find it. I started a couple of screws then slipped the shim stock out of place. Then I tightened the new screws.
Then we replaced the float with a new float needle and measured the position. It’s supposed to be between 1/8 and 1/16 of an inch below the lip of the bowl with the float needle pressed into place. We adjusted this since it was 1/8-inch out of whack.
We replaced the idle mixture needle with a new one and it’s spring. We removed the accelerator pump lever and spring to free the throttle shaft. Since it didn’t flop around in the bushings and the butterfly fit properly against the venturi we left the shaft and butterfly alone, but cleaned around them thoroughly.
It’s a true trick to replace the pump actuator lever, spring and arm. I finally made a spring hook tool out of brass rod to pull the spring into place. Fortunately we had another assembled Super E on hand to refer to. It’s never a bad notion to take a couple of photos of uncertain areas for reference. This was a good one.
We replaced all the O-rings, cleaned the fast idle components and replaced the accelerator pump shaft and bellows seal. We were getting close.
With the body complete and the float bowl setting aside covered from collecting dust, we installed the float bowl. I discovered a very small O-ring under the original float bowl gasket. We made sure all the O-rings including the ejector nozzle O-ring were back in their proper places.
She was buttoned up and ready to be returned to the classic ’61 Panhead where she belonged. Brad mounted her the next day. “She started on the third kick and the accelerator pump is working like a charm,” Brad reported via the phone.
Starting Procedures:
James Simonelli, from S&S, sent me the following starting procedures, “I like to pull the enrichiner up for prime kicking only, on a kick start bike. Pull it up, key off, two slow kicks, push primer down, crack the throttle, key on, and go for it.”
Tuning tips:
Here’s some tuning tips from S&S for both the Shorty Super E and G carbs. First adjust the idle circuit by adjusting the idle mixture screw, which regulates air/fuel mixture at idle speeds (set it initially 1.5 turns from bottom). Start the bike and let it warm for two minutes with the idle speed at between 800 and 1000 rpms. Turn the idle mixture screw clockwise, leaning the mixture until the engine starts to die. Then turn it counter-clockwise, richening the mixture, until it wants to die again. When the idle mixture screw is positioned about halfway between these points, or about ¼ to ½ turn out from the lean side, it’s set correctly.
If it doesn’t idle properly, check for a leaky intake manifold or bad ignition timing.
Intermediate SystemIntermediate range starts right off at idle and extents to 3000-3500 rpms or 50-60 mph. To test and adjust, ride the bike until it’s hot. Double-check your idle adjustment.
Note:It’s sometimes helpful to shut off the accelerator pump while fine tuning the intermediate circuit as fuel from the pump can mask jetting symptoms.
Check throttling characteristics by slowly rolling throttle on after maintaining a steady speed. This should be handled at several speed levels, like 30, 40 or 50 mph. If popping or spitting occurs the bike is running lean and the intermediate jet must be changed to the next larger size. Repeat the road test.
High Speed Circuit or Main Jet Adjustments:
The high-speed circuit kicks in above 3000 rpm or 55-60 mph and operates to maximum speed. The main jet is easy to reach by removing the brass plug on the bottom of the bowl, and reaching inside with a flat bladed screwdriver. The size is stamped on the lip of the jet.
Main jet size is best determined by testing at a drag strip, because maximum mph is the best fine tuning indicator. Okay, so that’s a tough one for most of us.
Street Procedure
S&S uses what they call RPMing method to determine main jet size. Under racing conditions this level is where horsepower peaks and begins to taper off, and is where top speed gearshifts occur. The main jet that makes engine accelerate strongest, or rpm through gears quickest, is correct.
After warm-up, accelerate rapidly through the gears noting how quickly and smoothly engine reaches an rpm level where pull of engine begins to fade and gearshift occurs.
If engine backfires in carburetor and sputters or “breaks up,” and/ or dies during acceleration, increase or richen main jet size .004 larger and road test again. Note engine smoothness and how easily engine reaches rpm level where gearshift occurs.
If engine runs flat and sluggish or “blubbers,” or will not take throttle, decrease or lean main jet size .002 smaller and road test again.
There you have it, the Bikernet S&S Shorty carburetor rebuild and tuning guide. How’d we do? Let us know if you have any additional insight or tuning tips. We’ll be glad to add them and images if you can supply them.
–Wrench
Part 3: IronWorks/Bikernet.com/Brass Balls Bobber Giveaway Bike
By Bandit | | General Posts
We’d like to say that it’s all work and no play for the IronWorkers crew at Sturgis, but truth be told, we managed to work in some biking fun. We also asked Dar Holdsworth of Brass Balls Bobbers if he’d display the IronWorks/Bikernet.com/Brass Balls Bobber, giveaway bike (or dare we say, your bike) at the rally. So, at the invite of the notorious Bandit, the masked man behind Bikernet.com, we parked your bike in front of Bikernet.com’s booth during the First Annual Bikernet Brouhaha Bike Show in the Thunder Dome.
As you can see from the photos, the bike’s still in progress, but we used the occasion to show off some of its raw metal work, plus some parts BBB added a few days before leaving for Sturgis.
We submit Items No. 1, 2 and 3 for your inspection.
Those are the Crime Scene Choppers’ line of Rapide parts, including the headlight, taillight and left-side air cleaner for the Crazy Horse engine. We especially like the brass accents, which will go well with the finished motorcycle’s overall design.
Connecting that Baker transmission is a Tauer Machine primary and clutch assembly. We feel the whole unit is clean and straightforward in appearance, and again, we can’t wait to see how the components come together on your finished bike. We mean “Your” because of the raffle opportunity. Just click on the banner at the top of the page to enter. There’s no charge, or of course, you can subscribe to IronWorks.
Speaking of finished bike, we’ll be showing you some of the final build and paint prep photos in the next issue of Iron Works and shortly thereafter on Bikernet.com, then look for the build’s conclusion in the January/February issue. Also keep in mind that if you start or renew your subscription to IW before January 31, 2009, you’ll be automatically eligible to win this bike. May the best subscriber win!
Brass Balls Bobber
Edmond, Oklahoma
405-285-0808
www.darwinmmotorcycles.com
Baker Drivetrain
Haslett, Michigan
877-640-2004
www.bikerdrivetrain.com
Crime Scene Choppers
Santa Cruz, California
831-406-0126
www.CrimeSceneChoppers.com
Bikernet.com
Wilmington, California
310-830-0630
Bikernet.com
Tauer Machine
Mankato, Minnesota
888-345-2135
www.tauermachine.com
Touring Model Oil Cooler Installation
By Bikernet Contributor Rogue | | General Posts
If you’re using the Harley-Davidson Oil Cooler Kit part number 26082-05 you will also have to purchase a oil filter part number 63798-99. We covered installing another factory/touring oil cooler system in the King reports, but since then some people had problems with the original system and the factory developed this upgrade. That’s why we’re bringing it to you, so you’ll have the latest.
Oil Filter Wrench HD-44067-A – This tool is needed so as not to damage the crankshaft position sensor.
3/8 Drive Inch lbs. Torque Wrench or Equivalent
6-inch, 3/8 Drive Extension
7/16 Allen Wrench with a 3/8 drive
7/16 3/8 Drive Socket
7/8 Socket
Common Screw Driver
A pair of side cutters to remove plastic wire ties. You will also need replacement wire ties not supplied with kit.
Start by placing a drain pan under the motorcycle and remove the original oil filter. Use the 7/8 socket to remove the stock oil filter adapter.Clean all surfaces.
Install the gasket on the Oil Adapter Assembly being sure to position it over the Flange through the smaller opening and check alignment.
Place Adapter onto original oil filter mount, paying attention to the gasket. Install the new Oil Adapter Fitting with the coated thread facing inward. Using the 7/16 Allen socket and torque wrench tighten to 160 inch lbs and then to 190 inch lbs.
Remove and disconnect the stator/regulator connector from the bottom of the regulator. Remove voltage regulator mounting nuts. Raise regulator and re-route wires to the inside of the regulator mount and under stabilizer link.
Install the Oil Cooler onto the regulator mounting studs. Replace the voltage regulator. Check alignment of all parts and tighten the fasteners to 84 inch lbs, then re-torque to 120 inch lbs.
Re-connect wiring, check that it does not touch or rub on anything and wire-tie it in place to bottom of mount.
Lubricate the oil filter rubber gasket and install filter by hand. After the filter bottoms out use the filter tool to turn an additional 1/4 turn (I prefer to handle installation by hand). It’s easy to over tighten filters. You will note the cut out in the tool just clears the Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Using any other type of tool could cause damage. The oil lines are clearly marked as to where they go.
Spray a little WD-40 or oil on the inside of the hoses and install. If possible slip the hose clamps in place first. Check clamps for easy access to tightening screw and tighten.
It would not hurt to check oil level at this time. Realize that the oil filter will use some as it fills up. Start engine and check for oil leaks. After oil light goes out continue to run until engine is warm. The Oil Cooler should get warm to the touch.
Recheck oil. Enjoy your new cooler. After you’ve ridden 500 miles tighten the hose clamps once more. They will seat themselves into the hose material. Also double check for leaks. These coolers will reduce the temperature of the oil by almost 10 degrees. Twin Cams run hot. Reducing the oil heat means that the oil will do a better initial lubricating job and last longer.
–Rogue
Motorcycle Hall Of Fame Member 2005
Bikernet Bonneville Effort, Part 11, The Classes
By Bandit | | General Posts
I spoke to an official, Tom “Rodan” Evans, from the SCTA (Southern California Timing Association) about rules, classes and Bonneville racing. Delvene reminded me that it was time to pre-register. “Running open bikes is the most fun,” Rodan said. “But let’s look at what you have?” According to Rodan the 1940 45 Flatty will run in the 500cc class, but there are several categories. We discovered that the record for the Modified Vintage 500 cc Gas Class is 126 mph. Get this the MPS-VF, vintage, partially streamlined fuel class record is 110 mph and the gas record in the same category is 123 mph. We're going after the MPS-VF first then change classes if we break that record.
Remember that the record must be obtained by running both ways on the salt within 1.5 hours and the average speed is our score.
Here’s the deal on the famous Salt Shaker, 120-inch (Accurate Engineering engine and Baker Transmission) Panhead Sportbike, designed by John Reed and modified by Bandit. That’s me. It can run in the Pushrod category 2000 cc class or A-PG. A Harley currently holds the gas record at 165.5 mph, but get this, the A-PF record (fuel), is just 157.010. We will shoot for that one first. “Run nitrous,” Rodan said. “It’s one way to make up for the shitty air on the salt flats.”
Now here’s the secret score for the day from Departure Bike Works. Speed secrets from the early days, slipped to us under the counter in the DBW service department:
”We received a communique from none other than Fast Eddie Boomhower himself, regarding the Bonne Belle motor,” said Greg from DBW.
“This page will self-destruct in 2 minutes, so read fast. This is some kick ass info. You can post some of it on Bikernet if you wish, so the faithful readers can see how it was done BEFORE computers and CNC machines….”
Eddie Boomhaur owned Richmond, Virginia, Harley-Davidson until the late ‘70s. He still restores vintage engines and sets them up for vintage racing. He also builds replica vintage Sprint frames.
Factory venturi blueprint.
Keep It Greasy,
Greg @ DBW
service@departure.com
Bikernet Bonneville Effort, Part 10
By Bandit | | General Posts
You can imagine how jazzed I was to receive the 120-inch Accurate Engineering Panhead engine from Yellow Freight. I’m a major fan of Panheads. Hell, I was born in ’48, but don’t tell anyone.
Shortly thereafter the Baker Transmission, 6-speed, touring unit with the oil bag under it, arrived. I also discovered that all my grandiose notions for moving the controls forward might fail. I needed the driveline in place to study the space available.
At first we were going to follow John Reed’s DVD instruction on installing the driveline in his frame, by lowering the frame over the driveline, with both on their sides. We discovered that his notion is killer if the frame is bare, no front end or swingarm.
After removing the bars, dash, fairing, tank and seat, we though we were ready for the Reed installation system. We bolted the system together, tried laying it over and dropping the frame on top, then gave up. We pulled the engine and tranny apart and headed in another direction.
I pulled and began to install the driveline mounting gear including the front mount isolator and the top motormount.
All the fasteners are labeled in bags, although we hope to use stainless Allens or even safety wired stainless in the future.
I also pulled the heim joints needed to align the engine and trans. Then I loosened the rear motormounts and tapped the swingarm axle out.
Next I blocked up and padded the transmission, dropping it into the swingarm which by the grace of the Chrome God remained in place.
With all the swingarm axle seals, washers and parts in place we returned the axle, except this time it slipped through the transmission.
It was time for the engine and I was concerned that I would be forced to remove the carb to clear the top motormount, but that wasn’t the case. The engine slipped right in.
With a jack and wood block under the engine, I aligned it with the tranny, dropped in the bolts and went to work. I always watch out for cross threading into aluminum. If it feels strange, I back ‘em out and shoot for better alignment.
Next, I installed the top motormount and heim joint. Before I messed with the controls, I wanted to make sure the chain and driveline was in perfect alignment.
Here’s an example regarding alignment. I bolted in the engine and tranny. Everything looked cool except the rear sprockets.
I looked down over the rear sprocket and couldn’t see the tranny sprocket. That made me nervous.
Then I remembered an odd sized aluminum spacer and John Reed’s mechanical drawing. It replaced one of the rear wheel spacers and moved the wheel about 1/8 of an inch to the right. That helped.
I installed the top heim joint, made sure the frame was level and the engine perpendicular to the lift.
I had to find a bigger bolt for the front motormount plate. I made sure the rear wheel was aligned, then the engine and tranny aligned.
The first time I slipped a Custom Chrome O-ring chain over the sprockets I wasn’t happy. It hit the tire and wasn’t even close to being aligned.
After carefully aligning all the elements the chain jumped into a straight groove from sprocket to sprocket. Next we’ll move onto the foot controls and the rear brake lever. Hang on.
This continued segment will take us through my vague thinking regarding the controls. We initially thought I could move the controls forward and still use the stock aluminum brake lever arm. I even took it apart and modified it to accept the Heim joint on the end of the linkage rod.
We modified it by removing one of the tangs, but discovered that this pedal assembly wouldn’t work at all. Time for plan B, which always works out better.
Here’s the heim joint connected to the modified pedal just before we shit-canned the notion.
We cut apart the foot peg bracket to lower the peg position. In Part 7 I ran this John Reed quote, but I was premature. It applies here, since this is where we cut the massive cast peg mounts.
“The primaries are fxr/dresser system,” John Reed said. “You can weld the steel footpeg brackets, I am pretty sure they aredrop forgings. I put mine in a mill and machined the shit out of them to make themlighter. But if you are using the bike on the salt,you want to keep as much weight as the motor can pull.”
So I did. I cut the forging in two, made a mark on the frame where the bracket could go, checked the spacing and went to work.
Damn, that’s a sweet looking engine from Accurate Engineering. Mistress Marylin is working for Berry Wardlaw, the prez of Accurate. She’s promised a tech story on all of Berry’s engine secrets. I’m waiting.
Okay, we needed to finish up the controls and the exhaust system before the bike could be torn apart and sent to paint.
I try to point out my mistakes to prevent you from making the same bullshit errors. See the heim joint on the rod and where it’s positioned. I used it as a guide to confirm where the foot control could go, but I should have set the heim joint in the center of the adjustment for flexibility.
Here’s the chunk with the peg mount. I made sure the peg was positioned, at the angle it was intended, before I tacked it into place. I ground the chrome away from the weld area and fired up the MIG.
With the peg in place I went to work on the control arm. I pressed the tephlon bushings out of the stock aluminum brake arm and went digging around the shop for the exact ID tubing for the lever axle.
Here’s what I found and chucked it into the Bikernet lathe for some fine tuning. I welded an arm to it out of hot rolled ½-inch round stock, then a spacer on the end and machined a brass treasure.
Just down the street is a nautical junk yard. Some guy who works on the docks has salvaged junk boat stuff for decades and he hordes the stuff. Once in a while, reluctantly, he sends a load to an antique swapmeet. I noticed old George loading the truck and bought a couple of porcelain street signs from Beverly Hills. What could be better for our Wilmington Ghetto back yard. George offered me a bonus of brass mementos. I didn’t see much I liked except this brass handle thing, which ultimately made my brake and shift levers. I cut it in half, drilled and tapped 3/8 threads.
Here’s the brake lever in place with the linkage attached. I won’t press in the Tephlon bushings until all the parts are powder coated and ready for final assembly.
With the handy Plasma Cutter I cut two side panels to afford me number plate space and take up that gap in the frame
I used the 1/16-inch stainless sheet for this, since it was handy. I could have gone lighter, but at Bonneville, it’s not a factor. This shot gives you a notion of the accuracy of the cut. Lot’s of grinding, sanding and filing brought the cuts in line. We started with a paper pattern as we did for the dash.
I’m sure as I use the Plasma more often, my accuracy will improve. It’s amazing and fast, but the grinding, fitting, and sanding takes awhile and patience.
Next, I made tabs in the corners and drilled the sheet for mounting. In the next segment we’ll deal with the panel on the other side of the bike, the shifter peg side and exhaust manufacturing. Then I’ll shift back to the 45. I’ve got some wild historic engine breakdown illustrations demonstrating racing notions, to share.
How’s she look?